View Full Version : Transmission Removal Progress
KillJoy
05-15-2007, 10:10 AM
1 - Jack up car. Easy :up:
2 - Drain Trans Fluid. This crap smells burnt! Definately toasted it :rolleyes:
3 - Spray PB Blaster on Drive Shaft and Exhaust Bolts. Waiting for it to soak in now...
More to come.
KillJoy
Its all pie until the crossmember comes out. (Or you die TRYING to take the crossmember out.)
KillJoy
05-15-2007, 10:32 AM
Its all pie until the crossmember comes out. (Or you die TRYING to take the crossmember out.)
Haven't gotten that far yet. But, yes....it will be coming out as well. :up:
KillJoy
teamrope
05-15-2007, 11:04 AM
Its all pie until the crossmember comes out. (Or you die TRYING to take the crossmember out.)
Are air tools any help with the crossmember?
Are air tools any help with the crossmember?
Its not the bolts, its the whole unit itself.
Its literally wedged into the frame and you need a massive prybar to get it out.
Many people including myself grind it down to aid in future removal.
teamrope
05-15-2007, 11:25 AM
Its not the bolts, its the whole unit itself.
Its literally wedged into the frame and you need a massive prybar to get it out.
Many people including myself grind it down to aid in future removal.
I'll keep that in mind when I finally get around to swapping out the TC. :)
KillJoy
05-15-2007, 01:46 PM
Position the high-lift jack under the transmission.
Remove the rear transmission insulator nuts.
Remove the RH side crossmember bolts.
Remove the LH side crossmember bolt.
Remove the bolts and remove the parking cable bracket and position aside.
NOTE: The crossmember is a press fit in the crossmember pocket, it may be necessary to pry the crossmember out of the crossmember pocket. Be careful not to damage the crossmember.
Lower the RH side of the crossmember.
NOTE: The crossmember is a press fit in the crossmember pocket, it may be necessary to pry the crossmember out of the crossmember pocket. Be careful not to damage the crossmember.
Lower the LH side of the crossmember and remove the crossmember.
A helpful tip: (not directed at Steve)
If you are rebuilding the trans yourself, use 2 of the crossmember bolts to thread into the transmission pump so you can twist, then pull it out. Saves you from paying to rent a slide hammer.
KillJoy
05-15-2007, 01:54 PM
Ok, is it out yet?
Nope. Got busy doing other stuff while letting the PB do it's thing. Getting ready to put a third coat of it on here in a few.
Patience Grasshopper ;)
KillJoy
sabtaj1
05-15-2007, 02:02 PM
The crossmember sucks! I have had mine out twice now. If and when you get it out use a disc sander or some type of grinding tool and clean up the sides of the crossmember (where its pressed in at). It will go in alot easier. And will come back out alot easier too in the future.
HwyCruiser
05-15-2007, 03:39 PM
Take some pictures!
KillJoy
05-15-2007, 04:41 PM
Uhh.....I am not going to grab my camera when my hands are covered in Burnt Trans Fluid ;)
4 - Removed the Driveshaft.
More to follow TOMORROW...possibly :rolleyes:
KillJoy
sabtaj1
05-15-2007, 04:53 PM
Yep it STINKS!. Ur garage is gonna smell like it for a long time. No more breaks! You can do it.
superford3
05-15-2007, 05:25 PM
i tried getting my crossmember out and it wouldnt budge
KillJoy
05-15-2007, 05:27 PM
i tried getting my crossmember out and it wouldnt budge
Bigger hammer???
:D
KillJoy
MENINBLK
05-15-2007, 05:36 PM
i tried getting my crossmember out and it wouldnt budge
Spay some PB on it... :D
Master
05-15-2007, 05:56 PM
Oddly, they've had my crossmember out a few times and didn't mention any difficulty. Must ask specifically now that you've all brought it up.
GreekGod
05-15-2007, 06:38 PM
While Archimedes did not invent the lever (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lever), he gave the first rigorous explanation of the principles involved, which are the transmission of force through a fulcrum (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fulcrum) and moving the effort applied through a greater distance than the object to be moved. His Law of the Lever states: Magnitudes are in equilibrium at distances reciprocally proportional to their weights. According to Pappus of Alexandria (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pappus_of_Alexandria), his work on levers caused him to remark: "Give me a place to stand on, and I will move the Earth."<SUP class=reference id=_ref-15>[17] (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Archemedes#_note-15)</SUP>
sabtaj1
05-15-2007, 08:03 PM
Yo will have to work each side a little at a time useing a big prybar. It sucks too. Its easy on a lift though. in and out and done in 2.5 hours. I say you buy a lift!
CRUZTAKER
05-15-2007, 11:37 PM
I wondered why you asked if I had pics yet...you're wrenching already!
I'm still in warranty limbo.....:sleepy:
BTW: Got pics yet?:P
I couldn't get my crossmember down on a lift with two 4' prybars. That thing is in there, tight!
Good luck,
J
ahess77
05-16-2007, 05:04 AM
When I did it I had the (mis)fortune to write about it too.
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=10153&highlight=transmission
HwyCruiser
05-16-2007, 02:32 PM
Uhh.....I am not going to grab my camera when my hands are covered in Burnt Trans Fluid ;)
4 - Removed the Driveshaft.
More to follow TOMORROW...possibly :rolleyes:
KillJoy
Clean ur hands and take some pictures!
I do 2 to 3 cop car trans a month, we have a six foot flat tip j-bar just for the cross member, and it doesn't make a differance if it was only in a few days , it still is that tight !
sailsmen
05-16-2007, 08:16 PM
While Archimedes did not invent the lever (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lever), he gave the first rigorous explanation of the principles involved, which are the transmission of force through a fulcrum (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fulcrum) and moving the effort applied through a greater distance than the object to be moved. His Law of the Lever states: Magnitudes are in equilibrium at distances reciprocally proportional to their weights. According to Pappus of Alexandria (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pappus_of_Alexandria), his work on levers caused him to remark: "Give me a place to stand on, and I will move the Earth."<SUP class=reference id=_ref-15>[17] (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Archemedes#_note-15)</SUP>
I have repeated this incantation over 100X and the heavy boxes in my attic have not moved. Please tell me what am I doing wrong?:confused:
KillJoy
05-17-2007, 03:02 PM
Ok. Done for the day.
I got the TC unbolted from the Flexplate.
Removed the Cat Pipes on both sides.
Disconnected the Shift Linkage.
When I got to the Starter removal, I apparently rounded the Bolt on the Top.
It looks like I need to get a Rounded Bolt Remover for a 10MM Bolt. I will be doing this Saturday. Damn car....
Whoever says they can R&R a Trans in 2.5 hrs is full of :bs:
KillJoy
GreekGod
05-17-2007, 03:32 PM
I have repeated this incantation over 100X and the heavy boxes in my attic have not moved. Please tell me what am I doing wrong?:confused:
Just keep trying...I'm sure it will work...think through the box, er... outside the box...
KillJoy
05-19-2007, 07:19 PM
TRANSMISSION OUT!
Took long enough!!!
KillJoy
FYI - The Trans CANNOT be removed w/ the Started installed ;)
sabtaj1
05-19-2007, 08:22 PM
Glad to hear you got it out. And yes 2.5 hours out and back in. But its alot easier when you use air tools and a lift with a trans jack. Bye the way I used to work at the local ford dealer and didnt burn any bridges when I left for the sheriffs dept. So they let me go up on saterdays if I need to work on my car. Hope all goes well with the rebuild. Had mine totally done with the j-mod and sent mine converter in for a stall change. Total cost me $980. keep us posted!
KillJoy
05-20-2007, 04:01 AM
So far, I am looking a about $250 for labor + parts. According to the builder... it will be able to handle WHATEVER I put through it.
AFAIK, it includes the J-Mod, Spiralok Clip, Kevlar OD Band, and new OEM Discs. When I get it back, I will be installing a PI 3500 TC that I got for CHEAP a while back (got it checked out by PI :up: ). I would like the Forced Tailshaft Lube Mod, but I have not made up my mind on that one.
I am also contemplating the Rear Head Cooling Mod, New Driveshaft and DS Loop.
KillJoy
finster101
05-20-2007, 10:59 AM
You can decide on the drive shaft later. Certainly do the rear cooling set up now or look forward to pulling the tans again. I would not pull the trans just for the cooling mod alone, but since it is out.
Steve, your trans is stinking up my car.
KillJoy
05-20-2007, 05:20 PM
Steve, your trans is stinking up my car.
Good. Beaters are supposed to stink :D
KillJoy
CRUZTAKER
05-20-2007, 06:13 PM
I am glad to hear you had a successfull trip.
My day cometh...:D
I am glad to hear you had a successfull trip.
My day cometh...:D
The block is on order Tuesday morning, from my friend at Ford, at a Ford Employee price! :D
thePunisher
05-22-2007, 02:47 PM
what actually failed in the trans???
what actually failed in the trans???
I'll post pics when it is apart.
It smelled like death.
40 some thousand miles on the car, a few of those with the SC, trans fluid was never changed.
Why am I friends with Steve? :stupid:
thePunisher
05-23-2007, 04:43 AM
i dont understand why youd put stock ford frictions back in it.......it would be really smart to throw some red alto clutches in for forward and direct...its not that expensive and you can stuff more clutches in the drums. a no brainer if you ask me. the trans will stay cooler also......
KJ,
As I mentioned to Tom in his post, give Darrin at BC-automotive.com a call before you go any further. 317-514-0816. Discuss what your plans are and check his prices.
Jay
KillJoy
05-23-2007, 07:38 AM
i dont understand why youd put stock ford frictions back in it.......it would be really smart to throw some red alto clutches in for forward and direct...its not that expensive and you can stuff more clutches in the drums. a no brainer if you ask me. the trans will stay cooler also......
I dunno????
KillJoy
thePunisher
05-23-2007, 08:19 AM
red eagle makes power pack clutch packs for forward, intermediate and direct drums.....thats the route you wanna go! any performance rebuild should include some type of preformance clutch....red eagle, raybestos blue etc. less heat generated, faster clutch apply. also they come with kolene steels. whch is a treated steel plate! with most red eagle kits as example you can stuff 6 clutches in a drum where ford had 4 stock. thats 50% more clutch surface area!!! when i do the 4r100 and e4od, c6 trannys i put 8 clutches in forward and 7 in direct....thats almost double what it came with originally! the same can be done with the 4r70w!!!!!!!!!! dont even waste time on a blower car with stock brown clutches!!!!!!!
thePunisher
05-23-2007, 08:20 AM
www.altousa.com
thePunisher
05-23-2007, 08:28 AM
id be willing to be forward clutch is burned badly in your trans.....especially if it wouldnt move in drive.....
KillJoy
06-16-2007, 06:48 PM
Hopefully Zack will chime in as to all the internal damage.
With that being said, I picked up the Trans from Zack last weekend. I had a couple of buds over today to help with it's install.
Starte about 2, finished about 8:30.
So far, so good.
I will play around with it a bit more tomorrow.
KillJoy
id be willing to be forward clutch is burned badly in your trans.....especially if it wouldnt move in drive.....
Hopefully Zack will chime in as to all the internal damage.
With that being said, I picked up the Trans from Zack last weekend. I had a couple of buds over today to help with it's install.
Starte about 2, finished about 8:30.
So far, so good.
I will play around with it a bit more tomorrow.
KillJoy
The one way clutch in the trans was so bad and got so hot, the steels actually fused themself to the clutch.
The inside of the clutch pack housings were downright ugly. One got replaced and the others were salvageable.
Steve really knows how to burn a tranny up.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2025 vBulletin Solutions Inc. All rights reserved.