Questions Reguarding Aftermarket Security System

[dparker83]

Well, two Fridays ago at my apartment complex while "my precious" was parked in its assigned parking space, it was broken into by people of very low values. Taken items were my Navigation System, Radar Detector, and Subwoofer (items valued over $2200). Insurance will cover replacement of the items and damages to the car (including smashing out the rear driver's side window (the big piece) and scratching a couple dash panels). So in a fit of rage I went to get a security system installed, a Python 990 system.

The folks at Circuit City installed the unit, but it seems as if nothing works on it at all. I've tested the shock sensor after I left that night and nothing seems to set it off, as well as there is no trunk or hood switch sensors working (I doubt they are even installed). I will be taking it back sometime very soon to complain, as well as get the trunk popping function working.

One major function they told me would not work with the security system is the automatic lights. They said it was because the system doesn't flash the lights when in automatic mode. My thinking is because they wired it before the LCM (lighting control module)? Anyone who has had an aftermarket security system installed or electrical guru can point me to which wire they need to put the parking light flash on, and keep automatic lights? Since these types of things are my interest (the engineer I am), they gave me the installation manual. It appears on that function it sends out a 250mA 12V signal (+/-) depending on jumper setting.

My last gripe about the unit is the automatic lights will not come on like they used to when you pressed the unlock on the OEM keyless entry unit. Right now the door lock outputs from the unit are wired to the door lock switch wires coming off the driver's side door. Is there a way to take the door unlock wire and move it to some position on the OEM keyless entry module or wherever that will "trick" the unit into unlocking that way? I believe there's a certain resistor value used on the unit but I'm not sure.

Thanks in advance for your help.

[Mike Poore]

I'm sorry to hear you got ripped off, and the MM damaged by the bastages. The Python should have a check list of things it does, and if if Circuit City took your money for the install, they have an obligation to make all the features work to spec, or remove the equipment and return your money.

I suggest you go on-line and get a printout of the unit's claimed features, and approach the store manager with your concerns. The jackasses who did the install are gonna try to cover their asses and put you off. Only the store manager is going to affect quick, equitable resolution.

[MACFORD88]

Sorry To Hear That.

[Advancedautosec]

hey dparker83, sorry to hear about your trouble, hear are some things you should know. they DIDNT hook up your trunk or hood to the alarm, your lights wont flash when you have the auto lights on, and the best way to test the shock sensor sensitivity is to take your fist, yes fist, and make a nice hit on the window(not the middle of it) this should give you some audible warning or set the alarm off, if not then it needs to be turned up. Next roll all your windows down, arm the alarm, and then wait about 20 seconds, then open any door and it should set off the alarm. i dont think its possible to hook the headlights to the alarm and make them come on like the factory remotes(could be wrong). if you got any more questions i would be glad to help, I do this for a living, i have had the system you have, Viper, Hornet, Clifford, you name it.

[rayjay]

people of very low values.

Your too PC, mutts or human waste products is closer to the truth. I hope the store makes your purchase right.

[Peace2Peep]

I have come to understand that some of the new Code Alarm systems actually interface with Ford's factory equiipment quite well...they are the OEM supplier for many of Fords systems...they are supposedly able to arm and disarm using the keyless entry keypad as well...groovy! Im looking for a good installer to put one of he two that supposedly do this!

CA 670 and CA 680 are the two that work(according to Code Alarm TEch support)

http://webappshttp.voxdmz.audiovox.co m:1025/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay.jsp?catalogId=1 0001&storeId=10001&productId=10198&langId=-1&desc=null

link to one of them

Sorry for your situation, hope this helps!

BTW ANy Code Alarm Experiences out there?

[dparker83]

Advancedautosec, that is how I tried to trigger the shock sensor. I even fisted safe places on the body (top of the door frame etc. and nothing). The installer claimed the shock sensor was on a wiring harness? :confused: Would it be better to mount on a trim panel?

I stumbled on this page: http://www.directechs.com/directwire/print_origin.asp?action=select&yr=5592&product=Security#

After looking at this page, there must be a difference between the "Unlock Motor" wire and the "Power Unlock" wire...

If the parking lights are wired at the LCM would that make a difference? I highly doubt they put the wire there too...It was like, "Oh we have 12V when the parking light switch is on. Great."

I'm just going to end up going back there and verify where the put stuff, and make them RTFM.

[BAD MERC]

Hey Allen! I used to install "Commode Alarm". That's the best thing I can say about them. Get a damn Viper, Avital, Clifford or Python. They are all DEI products and have 24/7 nationwide support and I have installed them for 8 years to the tune of about 2 a week or more. Three have come back bad. You want a good installer? A good installer will give you a good install. I am a master installer and my installs are flawless and comprehensive. I would rather install it for free than let you pay some ass-hack to shove a ball of wires under your dash.
I have come to understand that some of the new Code Alarm systems actually interface with Ford's factory equiipment quite well...they are the OEM supplier for many of Fords systems...they are supposedly able to arm and disarm using the keyless entry keypad as well...groovy! Im looking for a good installer to put one of he two that supposedly do this!

CA 670 and CA 680 are the two that work(according to Code Alarm TEch support)

http://webappshttp.voxdmz.audiovox.co m:1025/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay.jsp?catalogId=1 0001&storeId=10001&productId=10198&langId=-1&desc=null

link to one of them

Sorry for your situation, hope this helps!

BTW ANy Code Alarm Experiences out there?

[Advancedautosec]

you can get a DEI product that will work through your factory remote(i personally dont like those alarms though). The shock sensor should be mounted to a good thick wire harnes, NOT a panel or anything solid, it gets better response this way for some reason. I think it just needs to be turned up some. if you can smack your car with your fist and get NO sound, then its TOO low. You cant use the unlock motor for what we do in this situation for this reason, the unlock motor is door specific, like each door has a motor and each motor has one unlock and one lock wire, where as to hook all doors up reasonably we use the lock SWITCH wires that will operate ALL doors. I hope this helps clarify everything, like i said any questions just ask. And code alarm does make Ford alarm products, but i can say i have had bad experiences with Code Alarm, stick to DEI. and it might not hurt to add a motion sensor part number 508D. I personally have the clifford 2-way with motion and digital tilt(for rims).

[larryo340]

I stumbled on this page: http://www.directechs.com/directwire/print_origin.asp?action=select&yr=5592&product=Security#

.
Hey,
Can you stumble on this site for a '05 Ford Escape. The site is password protected so it would be great if you could find it for me.
:thanks:

[BAD MERC]

Use my password for www.directechs.com (http://www.directechs.com) , "audcon".

[larryo340]

Use my password for www.directechs.com (http://www.directechs.com) , "audcon".
:bows: I have to say many thanks, will make my life easier helping family and friends.
I owe 'ya one :beer:

[Advancedautosec]

hey silver2004Marauder, i see we both are in the same field, I dont know about you but from time to time i run into a new car i might have questions about(you might too)if you dont mind id like to ask you a questoin about certain vehicles and i wouldnt mind if you had a question, we could always PM. Ive been doing installs for about 8 years, went to RITOP in Mass, and was MECP certified, basic installer, never went to test for any other, im sure i could go higher, no need though really. I run my own business here in MD, how about you?

[BAD MERC]

I have been professional for 19 years and I am a certified master installer. As far as new cars - Chrysler and GM seem to be fighting the aftermarket tooth and nail. There are not too many questions that I have and I haven't used tech support in almost two years. I don't have my own store - I don't trust anyone to do my job, so I work for a small shop doing what I do best. My Marauder has the best of everything to the tune of over $12,000 in security and audio. It is garaged and rarely driven but I definitely enjoy the fruits of my effort a few times a month. Please feel free to ask me any question that you have. but please don't ask my opinion of other brands.
hey silver2004Marauder, i see we both are in the same field, I dont know about you but from time to time i run into a new car i might have questions about(you might too)if you dont mind id like to ask you a questoin about certain vehicles and i wouldnt mind if you had a question, we could always PM. Ive been doing installs for about 8 years, went to RITOP in Mass, and was MECP certified, basic installer, never went to test for any other, im sure i could go higher, no need though really. I run my own business here in MD, how about you?

[Advancedautosec]

As far as new cars - Chrysler and GM seem to be fighting the aftermarket tooth and

aint that the truth. i dont have a shop either, im a one man mobile company and do most my work for dealerships. dont worry i wont ask your opinion on other brands or any brands, i use strictly DEI for alarms and what not and dont do much audio. thanks for the reply.

[Shaft333]

You'd probably still get that stuff stolen with an alarm. Maybe not the subwoofers.

[dparker83]

You'd probably still get that stuff stolen with an alarm. Maybe not the subwoofers.

True, but the way I feel about it is it all depends on where you park at night. My next place WILL have a private garage, no matter if it is a nicer area. This area is not that bad but it seems as if it's on a bad run.

To truly follow up to your post, people will break in to steal anything. My co-worker just had his vehicle broken into last weekend at another complex 2 miles away from here! He owns a base civic and only had change and a jacket stolen. Funny how the window costs 200x more to replace than what's inside.:(

I just got straightened out with my insurance company. I'm getting the new equipment shipped to my house along with a voucher for an installer to put it all back in (that's not happening until I move out of here). Also my new radar detector came (unfortunately not covered by insurance companies).

My alarm has 2-way paging, and if someone sets it off they won't leave with my stuff just because I will know about it. And there are such things as 9mms...

[Advancedautosec]

And there are such things as 9mms...

Amen to that!! Hey if you got a properly installed alarm, and you are within distance to hear it go off, whether by the siren or pager, then your chances are they wont get what they want. In my experience, as long as the alarm goes off then they will leave it alone, especially if you got air horns, gotta have air horns...

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[Advancedautosec]

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