Rear shocks & Z control arms install question

[ctrlraven]

Having a little issues, I can't get the upper bolt loose. The bottom bolt comes loose just fine, I have only tried one side so far because I'm pretty sure the other side will have the same issue. I tried loosening the top bolt with the bottom bolt in place and out and all it does it just turn and turn. I put some PB Blaster lube on it and let it sit in for a bit and still just turns and turns.

I was going to try to tackle the control arms also but it looks like I need a wrench to get nuts inside the frame and all I have at my shop is sockets cause that's all I need for my work.

Any insight on the shocks and switching the control arms without needing a wrench would be helpful.

Thanks,

Chris

[fastblackmerc]

I think some of the nuts are actually "flag" nuts so you shouldn't need sockets. Look and see if there is a piece of metal attached to the nut. You may have broken one of the "flags" off.

[ctrlraven]

Ok I finally got it loose lol. Thankfully the shocks come with new rubber bushings, I just cut the top oem bushing off and was able to get some channel locks around the neck.

Now for other question, did anyone re-use the oem top bolt/washer or use the new bolt and loose plate that comes with the new shocks? Also for tightening the top bolt on the shock mount, I got it snug and then the shock just starts to rotate. I don't know how tight or snug it should be. I was looking at the oem as reference and the bushings were compressed so I know I have to get tighten more but can't figure it out.

[ctrlraven]

I think some of the nuts are actually "flag" nuts so you shouldn't need sockets. Look and see if there is a piece of metal attached to the nut. You may have broken one of the "flags" off.

No it wasn't broken off but with the new shocks, do I re-use the oem "flag" nut or the new nut and "flag" that come with the new shocks?

[finster101]

Use the new hardware supplied with the replacement shocks. On the top of the shaft of the new shock there should be a hex or maybe just flattened on two sides for a wrench, some have a spot for an allen key on the very top to hold it. The bushings should be compressed some but you don't have to go crazy. you may be able to get your channel locks on the shaft to hold it but if you do that try to stay as close to the top as you can

[ctrlraven]

Thanks, does this look compressed enough?

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a164/ctrlraven/DSCF0774Small.jpg

[finster101]

You should be good to go!

[Zack]

You have to tighten the shocks when there is load on the rear suspension.

[ctrlraven]

While installing the other side I had realized that I forgot one of the flag things that go on the bottom between the shock and the 1st bushing in the picture. The other side only took about 15 mins to do since I had a real idea of what I was doing lol.

Thanks for the info fellas, now time to go test drive.

[ctrlraven]

Gave it a good testing last night and this morning and am very pleased. I think with the combo of being used to slightly worn shocks and the Monroe Sensa-Trac shocks being stiffer is what makes the car feel good to me. Now just need to get the control arms and rear sway-bar done in the next few weeks.

[Grifter]

I just got done installing Monroes on the rear of my car as well. I couldnt get the top nut off either. I just took a pair of channel locks, opened them to the widest setting so that i could get a slight grip on the shock body, and that was enough resistance to get the top nuts loose. The Monroes ride alot nicer than the blown Motorcrafts i had on there..

[Dragcity]

Put a crescent wrench (monkey wrench) on the top of the threaded shaft, on and off.

The bushings should be expanded so as the bulge is equal to the diameter of the hold down (washer).

The control arms are walk in the park. Just take your time. I will be in Northern VA on Friday evening for the weekend and then off to VA beach for a couple days next week.

Chris, if you need help, let me know and I can bring the tools we need and I can help you with the control arms. I just did mine several weeks ago.

I spent a lot of tome cleaning up the bushings, as mine were covered pretty bad with rust.

The nuts in the frame should stop after 3/4 turn. The nuts on the axle side need to be held with a wrench or socket. They have neoprene lockers in the nut threads, so you have to hold them the whole way out, and in...

Clean everything well prior to re-assembly, I used a wire wheel.....

[magindat]

I just reach right thru the rim and hold the dust cover of the shock and let 'er rip with an air ratchet on the top nut.

[ctrlraven]

Finally picked up a bench vise so I'm going to try and tackle the control arms now. Any tips for getting the bushings out of the oems and into Zack's beautiful ones? Anyone use any lube or anything?

[Leadfoot281]

I pounded the bushings out with a 3lb. hammer, large socket, and vise as described in the directions.(no lube. Just a little shot of WD40).

I re-installed the bushings with a 30 ton shop press. Extremely easy! I HIGHLY reccomend this if you have access to one. Know any farmers? We ALL have shop presses, guaranteed! Or you can try a welding/fabrication shop. Probably won't cost much.

Otherwise just follow the directions, and DON'T mix them up. You'll love the new ride.

[ctrlraven]

Yeah that is what my uncle was telling me would be a wise idea to take them somewhere and get them pressed in, only problem is the MM is my DD. I'll figure something out I guess.

[Grifter]

i dont know, but are the bushing available separately from Ford or other parts store? If they are, just buy new ones, then you can get them pressed in and have the piece of mind of having new bushings as well

[fastblackmerc]

I don't think the bushings are sold by themselves.

[Zack]

If you find a set of bushings, you can send them along with the new CA's back to me with the check for shipping and Ill install them for you.