Overheating???

[DarthMarauder]

Trying to figure this out had my thermostat replaced and coolant flushed a while back everything is fine. Car was overheating before having this done ran fine for 2 weeks after then I leave the car for about 2 months and my mom starts driving it about maybe 4 miles round trip everyday she calls and no problems. Come back home been driving like crazy running errands while home and after 4 days now the MM is overheating again. Any ideas gonna try doing the burp tomorrow I read about but I thought I gave it a good one since I had it running about 3 hours when I did the coolant. Put a new cap on it today and still overheating not sure what else it could be. There are only 2000 miles on the fresh coolant and thermostat. Any ideas???

[KillJoy]

Burp it.

KillJoy

[CRUZTAKER]

Indeed.

Sometimes it takes quite awhile to clear the air.

[DarthMarauder]

How many times would you think on average??? This is my way back so it will be going on an 800 mile trip on Fri.

[KillJoy]

5-6 time for me.

:rolleyes:

KillJoy

PS - If you have not, install a 180* Thermostat ;)

[Blackened300a]

After I installed the new water pump I had to burp it about 7 times. Its a PITA but its the only solution.

[ctrlraven]

After having my new 180* thermostat installed I had to burp mine 3 times before it would settle down. I'm going to burp her again tomorrow for good measures again.

I had a major overheating problem a few weeks ago. My radiator fan motor decided to fry itself, $647 later I had a new one installed. Check to make sure your fan kicks on and off with no problem by leaving the hood open with the car running and turn the A/C on, the fan should cycle on then off. I can't remember the length of time the cycles, maybe 15-30 secs?

[1stMerc]

Make sure you park it on a slight decline, or at least level ground with the front facing down. Took me about seven times.

[MitchB]

Make sure you park it on a slight decline, or at least level ground with the front facing down. Took me about seven times.

Front facing up, no? You want the water outlet to be the highest point in cooling system.

Mitch

[larryo340]

Filling — Bleeding 4.6L (4V)

CAUTION: Engine coolant provides freeze protection, boil protection, cooling efficiency and corrosion protection to the engine and cooling components. In order to obtain these protections, the engine coolant must be maintained at the correct concentration and fluid level in the degas bottle.

When adding engine coolant, use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and engine coolant.

To maintain the integrity of the coolant and the cooling system:

Add Motorcraft Premium Engine Coolant VC-4-A (in Oregon VC-5 in Canada CXC-10) or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESE-M97B44-A (green in color), or Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant VC-7-A (in Oregon VC-7-B) or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSS-M97B51-A1 (yellow in color). Always fill the cooling system with the same type of coolant that was drained from the system. Do not mix coolant types.
Do not add orange-colored Motorcraft Specialty Orange Engine Coolant VC-2 or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSS-M97B44-D. Mixing coolants can degrade the coolant's corrosion protection.
Do not add alcohol, methanol or brine, or any engine coolants mixed with alcohol or methanol antifreeze. These can cause engine damage from overheating or freezing.
Do not mix with recycled coolant unless it meets the requirements of Ford specification ESE-M97B44-A or WSS-M97B51-A1. Not all coolant recycling processes meet these Ford specifications. Use of such coolants may harm the engine and cooling system components.

Remove the coolant bleed plug from the coolant bypass tube.
Disconnect the heater core coolant supply hose.
Add the coolant/water mixture through the water bypass tube opening until coolant appears at the heater core coolant supply hose.
Install the heater hose, using an appropriately sized worm-style clamp in place of the constant tension clamp.
Install the water bypass bleed plug.

Add the correct engine coolant mixture to the degas bottle until the coolant level is between the "COOLANT FILL LEVEL" marks and install the pressure cap.
Select the maximum heater temperature and blower motor speed settings. Position the control to discharge air at the A/C vents in the instrument panel.
Run the engine until it reaches operating temperature.
CAUTION: If air discharge remains cool and the engine temperature gauge does not move, the engine coolant level is low and must be filled. Stop the engine, allow it to cool and fill the cooling system.
Add the correct engine coolant mixture to the degas bottle until the coolant level is between the "COOLANT FILL LEVEL" marks and install the pressure cap.
Repeat the two previous steps until the engine coolant mixture is between the "COOLANT FILL LEVEL" marks on the degas bottle. Turn off the engine and allow it to cool.
Check the freeze protection of the engine coolant mixture with the Battery/Antifreeze Tester 014-R1060 or equivalent. Adjust freezing point range if necessary. For additional information, refer to Engine Cooling (file:///C:/TSO/tsocache/LARRY-PC_5456/S3A~us~en~file=S3A33003.htm~ge n~ref.htm).

[DarthMarauder]

Well a little update had the cap loose on the crossover pipe and had it running and there were bubbles and lots of coolant spraying out am I just supposed to wait till the bubbling out of the threads stop cause it didnt seem like it was slowing down at all. After a good 15 minutes of running like this the temp guage was fine so I capped it up and drove about 1 mile and she overheated again so I turned on the heat to 90 max and it runs at normal but the heat coming out it like burn your hand hot. So I guess my question now is should it be bubbling and leaking coolant from the thread when I run it loose or am I doing something wrong should I have the pressurized cap off of the overflow while I do this????

[CRUZTAKER]

Your'e doing it correctly.;)

[KillJoy]

OK.....what coolant are you using?

Are you sure your T-Stat hasn't seized?

Make certain you have gotten ALL of the air out. If you do not think you can do this yourself, your local F/L/M Dealer should be able to get it done for a small charge.

KillJoy

[DarthMarauder]

I'm using Prestone Pre-dilluted 50-50 mix antifreeze. I was just worry about all the fluid spraying out and if I needed the overflow cap on I will give her another run today with the cap halfway off and see what happens. Gonna get a new belt to dont like all the coolant getting all over it.

[ctrlraven]

I have always wondered about the 50/50 (example) for our cars. I thought since we have a sealed system it should only use 100% coolant which in a sealed system raises the boiling point? I've had two L/M dealers tell me they used 100% coolant in my car, no water added.

[KillJoy]

I thought our cars required a "special" type on AF????

KillJoy

[DarthMarauder]

Anyone know cause I have 50 50 thats what was put in after the backflush. It was overheating before the backflush and t stat change also went away then came back symptoms are just different. Anyone know if the belt tensioner is bad if that would cause it to overheat cause the water pump isnt spinning fast enough at idle. Cause this morning I noticed my volts guage reading 12 then I drove it around the block and it was back to 14????

[RF Overlord]

I thought since we have a sealed system it should only use 100% coolant which in a sealed system raises the boiling point? I've had two L/M dealers tell me they used 100% coolant in my car, no water added.Either you misunderstood, or those two dealers were badly misinformed. The correct mix is 50/50; in very hot climates 60/40 is acceptable, but never 100%. Pure ethylene glycol had a freezing point of approx 9°F. If you live in Arizona, that may not be a problem, but it sure would be here in New England. Also, ethylene glycol is flammable so having a 100% solution is dangerous.
I thought our cars required a "special" type on AF????Ford starting using the "Premium Gold" coolant in 2001. Its only advantage is that it *allegedly* lasts longer - 5 years/120,000 miles vs. 3 years/60,000 miles for the green stuff. Either one can be used in our cars, but if switching from one to the other a complete flush with plain water should be performed in between.

[Smokie]

Water is a superior coolant compared to pure anti-freeze...there is a little problem with freezing at 32* and boiling at 212*. Anti freeze lowers the freezing point and raises the boiling point, also prevents corrosion.

[my_rodder]

We had an overheating problem and went through 3 stats. My husband put in a Ford stat and problem solved, the guts were not the same as a parts store. Anyone else had that happen? I never saw anything in a search about that. also used a funnel with a couple inches of fluid when burping.

[Marauderjack]

Ethylene Glycol is not flammable unless a flash point of 1000*F counts and I believe the coolant/anti-freeze for all aluminum engines is predominantly Propylene Glycol??:confused:

Glycols alone will freeze at higher temps than mixtures with water (eutectic mixtures) and cooling ability of concentrated glycols is worse than water alone and mixtures of glycols with water.....glycols don't expand on freezing like water does either!!

I don't think your problem is related to the coolant itself but as stated before air in the system or a bad stat.

Marauderjack

[RF Overlord]

Ethylene Glycol is not flammable unless a flash point of 1000*F counts Actually, the flashpoint of pure ethylene glycol is 111-121°C, which is 232 to 249°F. This is why it's a bad idea to spill coolant on your exhaust manifold.
I believe the coolant/anti-freeze for all aluminum engines is predominantly Propylene GlycolMotorcraft Premium Gold, also known as Zerex G-05, is a BASF product called Glysantin and has a monoethylene glycol base.

[MERCMAN]

Actually, the flashpoint of pure ethylene glycol is 111-121°C, which is 232 to 249°F. This is why it's a bad idea to spill coolant on your exhaust manifold.Motorcraft Premium Gold, also known as Zerex G-05, is a BASF product called Glysantin and has a monoethylene glycol base.


Hey Bob,

have you switched your area of expertise from lubrication to cooling fluids?:)

For the people who are not familiar with RF Overlord, he is the last word on oil and lubrication. If you have ANY questions regarding oil, we are lucky to have Bob here to enlighten you.

[DarthMarauder]

Well guys I'm an idiot after burping it for hours today and nothing still overheating I took it to the dealer. And even though I still had a little air in the system left turns out the one thing I should of checked first cause after they told me my overheating made sense. Apparently I had a buildup of debris between the radiator and condensor and some in the shroud. So they purged out the rest of the air in the system and steam cleaned my radiator and cleaned out all the gunk that was in there and so far no overheating. After telling me this I realized that it had to be a blockage cause it was only overheating while driving if I was sitting there letting the air out of the crossover pipe it would sit at normal but while moving it would overheat so the load to the engine and no airflow through the radiator even with the fan going and the 90 degree temps caused my overheating. Well now I know what I'm looking for first next time this happens. Thanks for everyones help who posted.

[Marauderjack]

Actually, the flashpoint of pure ethylene glycol is 111-121°C, which is 232 to 249°F. This is why it's a bad idea to spill coolant on your exhaust manifold.Motorcraft Premium Gold, also known as Zerex G-05, is a BASF product called Glysantin and has a monoethylene glycol base.

Sorry to :hijack: this thread but I stand corrected....sort of??:cool:

I hardly think a flash point of 250*F would be a problem....in fact we used glycols and glycerin in all HT baths in labs I worked in over the years. When higher temps were needed we went to PEG's (Polyethylene Glycols) 400, 600 and higher.:beer:

As far as ethylene or propylene I know that Old World Products (Peak Anti-Freeze) promoted polyethylene glycol for aluminum and mixed metallurgy engines.....I guess there are new components and mixtures today....BASF product??:confused:

I use only the Ford stuff!!:bows:

Glad you got 'er done......Darth!!!:beer:

Marauderjack:burnout:

[DarthMarauder]

No prob on the hijack I'm just glad she is running good again. Marauderjack I see your from Beaufort are you a Drill Instructor.

[sicilianmarquis]

is your fan kicking on?

[Marauderjack]

No prob on the hijack I'm just glad she is running good again. Marauderjack I see your from Beaufort are you a Drill Instructor.

Uhhhhh.....Nope!!:shake: