Oil Pan Capacity Pictures *SCARY*

[Zack]

You guys gotta see this. Read everything, you will definitely reconsider how much oil you put in at the next oil change.
Keep in mind a Mustang pan is almost identical to a Marauder pan.
:eek:
http://www.chicagosvt.com/forums/showthread.php3?t=23783&highlight=oil+pan+capacity

[magindat]

Dammitt! Can't see it from work. #*(&*&$%&%# FIREWALL!!!!

[KillJoy]

Humph.....

I just fill it up untill it comes out of the little hole the stick thing goes into.

:dunno:

KillJoy

[Zack]

Humph.....

I just fill it up untill it comes out of the little hole the stick thing goes into.

:dunno:

KillJoy

We're talking about OIL Steve, not what you did last night at the MANHOLE :flamer:

[RF Overlord]

Zack, help a brother out, here...

Both of my motors take just a tiny bit less than 6 quarts to read right on the full mark after an oil change and I generally top off with the remaining few ounces within a month, to maintain the level at the full mark.

Are those guys saying to put in 7 quarts no matter what the dipstick reads?

[KillJoy]

How much space in that pan is taken up by the Crank, Oil Pickup...and whatever???

Running the Crank through a full pan of oil would DEFINATELY help to rob power.

KillJoy

[Zack]

The crank is tucked up into the block on a modular, so it really wouldnt be a problem until you reach the 8-9 quart range.
But remember, as soon as the car is running, many quarts are elsewhere in the engine, mainly in the heads.

[SlkMerc]

I wanna know how much to use from the Protect the Engine Standpoint.

[MinnesotaMuscle]

Does someone have access to a one of our engines with the pan off? Need to measure how far down the crank sits in the pan, or how far down It hangs from the bottom of the block....take that, frind out how many quarts it takes to fill the pan right to the bottom of the crank and add another half court...That should be the max we can run....
:burn:

[RCSignals]

Zack, help a brother out, here...

Both of my motors take just a tiny bit less than 6 quarts to read right on the full mark after an oil change and I generally top off with the remaining few ounces within a month, to maintain the level at the full mark.

Are those guys saying to put in 7 quarts no matter what the dipstick reads?

Hmm 6 quarts doesn't quite make the ideal full mark, but about 6 1/2 does.

Let the Mustang guys put 7 quarts in their cars regularly.
When an engine is running obviously oil will be dispersed throughout the engine and there will no longer be 6 quarts in the pan. You want that oil circulating and doing it's job. With the engine running you only want enough oil left in the pan to be picked up for circulation through the pump. The oil capacity was engineered to do just that.
In hard aggressive driving other measures may have to be taken with the pan, but for most of us the stock pan should be fine.

[MinnesotaMuscle]

The crank is tucked up into the block on a modular

Your 100% positive? Never seen a V8 that didn't have the crank stick out into the pan, Ford, GM, Olds, Buick, and Pontiac all of them I worked on anyhow...

[Zack]

I will look next time I go to my moms garage

[RCSignals]

Your 100% positive? Never seen a V8 that didn't have the crank stick out into the pan, Ford, GM, Olds, Buick, and Pontiac all of them I worked on anyhow...

The block is skirted, but I'm not sure the skirts extend below the lowest point of the crank throws.

[Zack]

The block is skirted, but I'm not sure the skirts extend below the lowest point of the crank throws.

What? :shake:

[ctrlraven]

I normally put in 6 qts, I've had a mechanic tell me he has put in 6 1/2 qts before. Would it be smart to run 7 qts in our motor since it looks like it can take it?

[Breadfan]

7 quarts is expensive though, save money and just take a sledgehammer to your pan and decrease capacity 1qt.

:D

Does anyone have a spare Marauder pan laying around and some old oil they'd care to do a similar test for our pans?

[ctrlraven]

I'm actually going to get my oil changed later, I will tell the tech to put in 6.5 qts and see how that goes and add the other half later on after the car runs the oil through for a while and report back.

[Marauderjack]

What exactly is the point here.....6-7 quarts and mine never had a problem...I think??:confused:

Also, I'd bet you'd be surprised how little oil stays elsewhere in the engine/heads/etc.!!!:shake: As thin as our oil is at temperature it flows back to the crank case pretty fast!!:rolleyes:

I'd like to see what the actual flow rate is at say 50 PSI and 200*??:confused: I bet it's a gallon a minute or less.....anyone know??:cool:

Marauderjack:burnout:

[larryo340]

How much space in that pan is taken up by the Crank, Oil Pickup...and whatever???

Running the Crank through a full pan of oil would DEFINATELY help to rob power.

KillJoy
Forget about losing power, think about foaming up the oil and watching the pressure drop.

[fastblackmerc]

I normally put in 6 qts, I've had a mechanic tell me he has put in 6 1/2 qts before. Would it be smart to run 7 qts in our motor since it looks like it can take it?

Just follow the owners manual "6.0 quarts (5.7L) includes filter change". Do you really think the Ford engineers would tell you to put less oil in? :eek:

[Blackened300a]

I always wondered why my Mother's 4.6 32V northstar engine in her DTS would take 9 quarts and my 4.6 32V only takes 7.

[Zack]

7 quarts is expensive though, save money and just take a sledgehammer to your pan and decrease capacity 1qt.

:D

Does anyone have a spare Marauder pan laying around and some old oil they'd care to do a similar test for our pans?

I have one, maybe Ill do the test this weekend.

[Bobmiddle]

"I have one, maybe Ill do the test this weekend."

A sledgehammer or an extra pan?:D

[fastblackmerc]

I always wondered why my Mother's 4.6 32V northstar engine in her DTS would take 9 quarts and my 4.6 32V only takes 7.

And my wife's 2007 5.7l Charger R/T takes 7 also.....

[VAmarauder03]

sorry guys but to many weekend warriors and to much bad info out there for me to put more oil than what is called for...besides to much oil=airation airation=air bubbles in the oil and the oil foaming, foamy engine oil loses its lubricating capabilities, after all air doesnt lubricate.

[Joe Walsh]

I've got my OEM block w/OEM crank in the basement...I'll check out how far down the crank throws are compared to the oil pan mounting surface of the block.

[KillJoy]

I've got my OEM block w/OEM crank in the basement

Are there ANY Marauder parts you DON'T have laying around somewhere?!?!?!

:eek:

KillJoy

[RCSignals]

What? :shake:

The block is skirted. I'm very surprised you don't know that, or that term. :eek:

[Dr Caleb]

The block is skirted. I'm very surprised you don't know that, or that term. :eek:

I think he was expecting 'kilted'.

[RCSignals]

I think he was expecting 'kilted'.

while it is a fine engine, I'm not so sure it has earned that honour ;)

[RCSignals]

What exactly is the point here.....6-7 quarts and mine never had a problem...I think??:confused:

Also, I'd bet you'd be surprised how little oil stays elsewhere in the engine/heads/etc.!!!:shake: As thin as our oil is at temperature it flows back to the crank case pretty fast!!:rolleyes:

I'd like to see what the actual flow rate is at say 50 PSI and 200*??:confused: I bet it's a gallon a minute or less.....anyone know??:cool:

Marauderjack:burnout:

I don't know what the point of that was to find the actual capacity of the oil pan. I don't know of any oil pan that is ever filled to it's actual capacity.

I think if you keep to the recommended 6 quarts and at least don't go over 7 quarts you should be OK.

Just because another engine may be specified to use more oil does not mean it's good for every engine. I suspect the "low oil failures' mentioned are just that, and not because the recommended capacity was maintained.

[gmtech]

6 qts puts my oil level at the full mark..(and the FULL mark is there for a reason:()...just checked it and after 2700 miles its still at the full mark..i personally would only put the oil level to the full mark whether it be 6,6.5,or 7 qts...just my 2 pennies..ive worked on numerous failures at my dealer because the minimum wage LOF employee overfills the crankcase:eek:..helps me pay my MM car pymt so im happy with that:P

[RoyLPita]

I've used 6 1/2 quarts without any problems.

[fastcar]

I have to agree that filling a pan with oil seems to be a somewhat irrelevant exercise. The tube and possibly other items go into it. A lot of it is immediately suctioned out, etc.

Don't Ford engineers know 1-2 quarts are in the heads when it's running? Obviously they do. I have to believe that they felt that the level they stipulated was good for some reason...

HOWEVER, I do think the pictures well illustrate what can happen if you let your oil level go low.

My 1995 P-71 would use 5 quarts between changes. I got lazy on times, let it get down 2-3 quarts, and it seized up on me. The pictures show how that could easily happen, especially on a steep hill (as I was).

I may consider using a little extra oil after seeing the Mustang thread, but I'm not going crazy. I'm sure the line was developed after extensive testing.

BTW, the Mod motor is a Y-block, and the crank sits completely up inside the engine. IT DOES NOT protrude from the block as the 302 did.

fastcar:burnout:

[crouse]

Unless things have changed, the oil pick-up is usually about 1/2" off the bottom of the pan. I'm just guessing here but that would mean less that 2-1/2 quarts in the bottom of the pan with the engine running or 3-1/2 quarts being pumped through the engine. Don't you also think the Ford would design an engine with a safety factor for the oil level?

[jgc61sr2002]

Always use exactly 6 quarts.:D

[Joe Walsh]

I've got my OEM block w/OEM crank in the basement...I'll check out how far down the crank throws are compared to the oil pan mounting surface of the block.

FWIW: The only part of the crank that extends below the block's skirt/oil pan mounting surface is the front counterweight...which is only @ 1/2" into the oil pan.

I'm not sure I would try to re-engineer the amount of oil to run in the pan.
Unless someone had real data on how much oil is held in the block and heads while the engine is running.
Ford engineers had to test the engine's durability for MANY hours at WOT and I doubt that they would incorrectly calculate the oil pan's fill level.

[RF Overlord]

I'm not sure I would try to re-engineer the amount of oil to run in the pan.

Ford engineers had to test the engine's durability for MANY hours at WOT and I doubt that they would incorrectly calculate the oil pan's fill level.I'm with Joe Walsh on this one.

At least two people in that thread said something like "there has to be a reason why so many people blow up modulars due to oil starvation"...admittedly I'm no expert on modular motors, but I've never heard of this as a wide-spread problem...

[RCSignals]

.................

BTW, the Mod motor is a Y-block, and the crank sits completely up inside the engine. IT DOES NOT protrude from the block as the 302 did.

fastcar:burnout:

Correct. It is a skirted block

[RCSignals]

FWIW: The only part of the crank that extends below the block's skirt/oil pan mounting surface is the front counterweight...which is only @ 1/2" into the oil pan.

............

That's about what I thought it would be.

[ImpalaSlayer]

i think im missing the point but. why are you guys worried about the level of oil in you motors? as some of you have said ford enginiers came up with a level that works. if there calculations were wrong all of our motors would have long blown up by now. the cars wouldnt have made it off the lot, literaly

[CRUZTAKER]

Good read. I guess it's a case of make of it what you will.

I however will continue to keep my oil level at the top of the stick full mark....whatever that equates to be;)

[gmtech]

Good read. I guess it's a case of make of it what you will.

I however will continue to keep my oil level at the top of the stick full mark....whatever that equates to be;)
EXACTLY............:beer:;)

[FordNut]

Mine holds 8 qt.

but then I've got a Moroso oil pan and remote oil filter...

[mrjones]

I'm not sure that I've got a real position on the "using more oil than the manual says" issue, but I'm also not sure that I put a HUGE amount of trust in the Ford engineers - aren't they the same ones that designed the aluminum heads with 3 threads to hold the spark plugs in?

[Blackened300a]

I've used 6 1/2 quarts without any problems.

+1


Always use exactly 6 quarts.:D

I put in the 6 quarts, start the engine then check it, It always takes that 1/2 quart

[Zack]

The block is skirted, but I'm not sure the skirts extend below the lowest point of the crank throws.

This is in response to all the posts you tried to make me look like an idiot about.

To suggest that any block skirting extends BELOW the mating surface of the oil pan is just plain ignorant.

WOW

[sweetair]

Just seeing this now. There is an oil pressure in our cars. Mine varies from almost 100psi when cold to 25 when warm and at idle. If the amount of oil increases won't the pressure as well? Too much oil is NOT a good thing. I use 6 regardless what the dip stick says. Low or high. The stock tires call for 32 psi, I could put in 50 psi if I wanted to but then you have a completely different problem. I don't think FORD is steering us wrong here. Nice pics though Zack.

[VAmarauder03]

for everyone that wants to put in more think of it this way, yes the crank may not be spinning directly in the oil but what happens to those of you cuttin 1.8X 60' times? the oil rushes to the back then ALOT more oil than what ford recommends is on the crank causing airation....some something to think about...too much oil really can be a bad thing

[O's Fan Rich]

Your 100% positive? Never seen a V8 that didn't have the crank stick out into the pan, Ford, GM, Olds, Buick, and Pontiac all of them I worked on anyhow...

Ever see an FE Ford... you know, a 352, 390, 410, 427,428 ?
That's how they be!
And the mod motor too.
This is good info, Zack.
I am religous about checking oil, at least every other start up.
It helps that I also fill up my methanol tank to remind me. But with this info, I'm going a half quart plus higher on the full stick!

[O's Fan Rich]

May I direct your attention to this recent theread, as I believe it deals with the results of low oil levels:
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=38365&highlight=blew

DIT: I also wonder what happens to the oil pumping flow rate above 4500rpm? Seems to me it'd be pushing alot more up top than usual. In the FE world it's common to add restrict ors to the oil feeds for the heads to keep more in the pan at high RPM. The valve covers will literally fill to capacity and starve out the bottom end and the pan... thus screwing the motor and the owner of said motor!

[fastblackmerc]

May I direct your attention to this recent theread, as I believe it deals with the results of low oil levels:
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=38365&highlight=blew

DIT: I also wonder what happens to the oil pumping flow rate above 4500rpm? Seems to me it'd be pushing alot more up top than usual. In the FE world it's common to add restrict ors to the oil feeds for the heads to keep more in the pan at high RPM. The valve covers will literally fill to capacity and starve out the bottom end and the pan... thus screwing the motor and the owner of said motor!

Yes, that thread deals with less oil than recommended. I think this whole thread is about adding more oil than recommended. I'm staying at 6.0 quarts with an oil filter change. I think the engineers at Ford know what to recommend.

[sweetair]

Yes, that thread deals with less oil than recommended. I think this whole thread is about adding more oil than recommended. I'm staying at 6.0 quarts with an oil filter change. I think the engineers at Ford know what to recommend.This is what I am saying also. Don't run it low, use what is recommended.

[SMOKE]

I always fill w/ 6 Qts and don't really mind the dipstick...

Not to throw another potential hoax into the mix, but a wrench-savvy friend of mine w/ an '03 Cobra stated once to just do fill level by the number of bottles as there is something up with the dipstick itsself??

I don't know about you, but for me 6 Qts has been fine, and the dipstick on my car appears cobbled together (made of two pieces riveted together and not very scientific looking).

$.02

JWM

[O's Fan Rich]

I wonder if the Ford Engineers factored in stiffer gear ratios with the associated higher rpms and faster oil movement?

We all want to trust the engineers... but who are the first ones we curse when something goes wrong?
What about the engineers who gave use the axle tsb?
How about the engineers that allowed for acceptable oil consumption? (start up smoke that is "normal"?)
What about the engineers that did not include the cooling of the rear of the heads?
Or the engineers that decided that a fake oil pressure gauge is better than an actual working unit?

Anyone want to add to the list?

Just some food for thought, Guys.

[fastblackmerc]

I wonder if the Ford Engineers factored in stiffer gear ratios with the associated higher rpms and faster oil movement?

We all want to trust the engineers... but who are the first ones we curse when something goes wrong?
What about the engineers who gave use the axle tsb?
How about the engineers that allowed for acceptable oil consumption? (start up smoke that is "normal"?)
What about the engineers that did not include the cooling of the rear of the heads?
Or the engineers that decided that a fake oil pressure gauge is better than an actual working unit?

Anyone want to add to the list?

Just some food for thought, Guys.

Rich, some of those examples might also be related to the been counters & marketing folks.

[Breadfan]

I wonder if the Ford Engineers factored in stiffer gear ratios with the associated higher rpms and faster oil movement?

We all want to trust the engineers... but who are the first ones we curse when something goes wrong?
What about the engineers who gave use the axle tsb?
How about the engineers that allowed for acceptable oil consumption? (start up smoke that is "normal"?)
What about the engineers that did not include the cooling of the rear of the heads?
Or the engineers that decided that a fake oil pressure gauge is better than an actual working unit?

Anyone want to add to the list?

Just some food for thought, Guys.

FWIW that's probably not engineers at fault per se, but rather budgets and time deadlines. Without those, engineers would probably keep designing until it was perfect and since that point is impossible to reach they'd probably still be designing. :D

[RCSignals]

This is in response to all the posts you tried to make me look like an idiot about.

To suggest that any block skirting extends BELOW the mating surface of the oil pan is just plain ignorant.

WOW

^^^ I've never tried to make you look like an idiot.
You've just provided an example of why it isn't necessary.


No where was it ever said the skirting extends BELOW the mating surface of the oil pan. The skirting provides the mating surface for the oil pan.
The discussion was about how far below the skirting the crank throws might extend.

Give it a rest Zack. Learn how to read with comprehension.

[RoyLPita]

Guys, this question is slightly of subject but pertains to oil capacity. The 5.4 SOHC engine has a 6 1/2 quart capacity. I know someone who has a 5 quart pan on his for fitting reasons. Is this dangerous for the engine?

[RCSignals]

I wonder if the Ford Engineers factored in stiffer gear ratios with the associated higher rpms and faster oil movement?

We all want to trust the engineers... but who are the first ones we curse when something goes wrong?
What about the engineers who gave use the axle tsb?
How about the engineers that allowed for acceptable oil consumption? (start up smoke that is "normal"?)
What about the engineers that did not include the cooling of the rear of the heads?
Or the engineers that decided that a fake oil pressure gauge is better than an actual working unit?

Anyone want to add to the list?

Just some food for thought, Guys.

The axle TSB was a result of manufacturing not following specification. Axle bearing surface too soft.

Seems only a few have really experienced smoke at start up, but who is it really saying it is normal?

The fake oil guage from Ford goes back to the '60s at least. My '67 Cougar XR7 had a fake oil guage. Apparently it was done because too many idiots seeing their real guage fluctuate so much kept complaining it was broken. Ford 'fixed' things for them. I don't think Ford is the only manufacturer to do that.

There are going to be cases when other considerations for oil capacity and delivery must be made, dependent on use of the vehicle and driving conditions. Fordnut has made some change for his engine.

For most of us, the stock capacity should be just fine.

[CRUZTAKER]

This is in response to all the posts you tried to make me look like an idiot about.

To suggest that any block skirting extends BELOW the mating surface of the oil pan is just plain ignorant.

WOW


Ha! You are reading your ignore list posts aren't you?:D

The force is strong, stay strong, ingore....I have 3 in this thread alone.;)

[RCSignals]

Ha! You are reading your ignore list posts aren't you?:D

The force is strong, stay strong, ingore....I have 3 in this thread alone.;)

You are correct Barry. These days everyone should have Zack on their ignore list.

In that post to me he's playing the victim, which is a laugh. It wasn't even made in reply to him.
Zack has made more unprovoked attacks and made snide remarks at more people than can be counted, especially lately.

[O's Fan Rich]

Ok..Ok... bean counters.... lets follow through on that.
Bean counters also would be involved in the deciding on oil pan size and capacity. Imagine the savings of say 1/2 quart of oil at the factory for every 4.6 produced.... how many motors might they be able to replace and still make some cash? Given that not all would drive hard enough to cause an issue anyway and be out of warranty by the time one may arise?
How about the cost of the "full treatment" lease like I have on the LSE ( I know it's a 3.9 not a 4.6, but stick with me).
I get a free oil and filter change at the dealer with the lease... multiply thet out by the amount of leases out there and the 1/2 quart.
Get my idea there?

Bean counters are always involved in all aspects of manufacturing.
I'm adding the 1/2 quart.

[RF Overlord]

If the amount of oil increases won't the pressure as well?No. Oil pressure is a function of pump design and relief valve specification. The quantity of oil in the pan is irrelevent.

[Joe Walsh]

I also wonder what happens to the oil pumping flow rate above 4500rpm? Seems to me it'd be pushing alot more up top than usual. In the FE world it's common to add restrict ors to the oil feeds for the heads to keep more in the pan at high RPM. The valve covers will literally fill to capacity and starve out the bottom end and the pan... thus screwing the motor and the owner of said motor!

Yeah Rich....BUT our DOHC valve covers are just TOO BIG to fill up with oil!!!

:P

[O's Fan Rich]

Yeah Rich....BUT our DOHC valve covers are just TOO BIG to fill up with oil!!!

:P

Hopefully Joe, hopefully.

You got restrictors in that AWESOME 468 right?

[Joe Walsh]

Hopefully Joe, hopefully.

You got restrictors in that AWESOME 468 right?

Yep, and a deep sump 7 Qt 'T' oil pan.

[MACFORD88]

Little Hole Lol Funny.

[Seneca]

Hmmmm.. Here all along my cars been taking 7qts to fill it at oil changes.. :rolleyes:

[Motorhead350]

I've always put exactly six in my car every single time and my Chevy (5.7 liter) has always wanted 7. Heres something strange... my dads Mercedes (which is gone now) had a 4.3 liter engine and it said to put in 9 in the owners manual. It was a weird grade too like 0W-40 or something. Even doing it at home cost around 90 bucks. I'm glad that thing is gone, but it had it's moments. ;)

[ctrlraven]

So I finally got around and did my oil change yesterday. Got the engine all nice and warmed up then shut it down and pulled drain plug after 10 mins. After all was said and done it took 6.5 qts and was dead on with the full mark on the dipstick. I'm going to go build myself an oil separator now cause I'm tired of the blow-by on both sides of the heads.

[GordonB]

OK guys and gals,
FWIW --
1.Why does it take 20 - 30 minutes for me to drain the oil when I do an oil change with a HOT engine? Answer: The oil has to drain back from the heads.

2. After I change the oil and refill it, I fire it up & check for leaks, then I let it SIT for 20 minutes before checking the oil dipstick level. Otherwise you will NEED to put MORE than 6 qts to fill it based on a FAULTY reading! JMHO

3. Follow-up comment: I am glad everyone checks their oil when they get gas, BUT ..., unless the car is level and the car has been sitting for 20 minutes, you are NOT going to get an accurate reading.

Hey, these are just my opinions. Haven't heard these points raised previously so I thought I'd chime in.

GordonB

[fastblackmerc]

From the owners manual:

Checking the engine oil
Refer to the scheduled maintenance guide for the appropriate intervals for checking the engine oil.
1. Make sure the vehicle is on level ground.
2. Turn the engine off and wait up to 10 minutes for the oil to drain into the oil pan.
3. Set the parking brake and ensure the gearshift is securely latched in P (Park).
4. Open the hood. Protect yourself from engine heat.
5. Locate and carefully remove the
engine oil level indicator (dipstick).
6. Wipe the indicator clean. Insert the indicator fully, then remove it again.
If the oil level is between the MIN and MAX marks, the oil level is acceptable. DO NOT ADD OIL.
If the oil level is below the MIN mark, add enough oil to raise the level within the MIN-MAX range.
Oil levels above the MAX mark may cause engine damage. Some oil must be removed from the engine by a service technician.
7. Put the indicator back in and ensure it is fully seated.

[RCSignals]

OK guys and gals,
FWIW --
1.Why does it take 20 - 30 minutes for me to drain the oil when I do an oil change with a HOT engine? Answer: The oil has to drain back from the heads.

2. After I change the oil and refill it, I fire it up & check for leaks, then I let it SIT for 20 minutes before checking the oil dipstick level. Otherwise you will NEED to put MORE than 6 qts to fill it based on a FAULTY reading! JMHO

3. Follow-up comment: I am glad everyone checks their oil when they get gas, BUT ..., unless the car is level and the car has been sitting for 20 minutes, you are NOT going to get an accurate reading.

Hey, these are just my opinions. Haven't heard these points raised previously so I thought I'd chime in.

GordonB


Good points. The best time to check your oil level is before you start the car when it's still 'cold'. If the car has been running, as you point out, you should wait a time for the oil to settle back to the pan.

[Bluerauder]

Good read. I guess it's a case of make of it what you will.

I however will continue to keep my oil level at the top of the stick full mark....whatever that equates to be;)
+1, 2, & 3 ^^^^.

On a service ticket at a F-L-M dealer, I noticed that I was being charged for 7 quarts of oil. Without even looking at the car, I asked the service manager to walk out to the car with me. With him watching, I pulled the dipstick and showed him that it was reading way up above the Full mark. :rolleyes: I had them drain it and refill with 6 quarts just to the Full line. I paid for 6 quarts only.

I remember a time when it was not necessary to check on such items. Unfortunately, those times are gone. :(

[BlownMerc]

It's best to run what the factory recommends, you can't out-engineer the engineers. The build the "oil in the heads and filter" into the recommended capacity. I have seen these mod motors overfilled before, it can and will damage them, make them feel like a misfire and eventually cause mechanical damage. The crank does not hang out of the bottom of the block at all. You can rest a fully assembled short block flat on the pan rail without the mains touching. Most of the factory dispticks are not made precise enough to trust them to tell the ultimate in capacity (i.e. someones motor may take 6.5 to read full, someone elses 7.0 quarts). I had someone from powertrain engineering tell me to run what is recommended in the shop manual (not all owners manuals get updated timely, unfortunately, because they do alot of copy and paste and the publishers only where changes are required).

[Lowndex]

Wondering what the top Marauder experts might have to say about needing more oil.

[finster101]

Has anyone lost a motor to oil starvation other that when the pump broke? I'll stay with six quarts in my MM. Oh, and since I do them everyday 8 quarts in your Northstar.

[Black Dynamite]

In the Specs chart in the manual it says the capacity is 6.5 qts. 6.5 seems to work fine in mine and the dipstick shows acceptable. But as someone else said each car can have it's own personality. It seems logical to fill it to the point the dipstick says is good.

Oh and by the way, NEVER put all your trust in engineers. They screw up just as much as anyone. They even have shows on TV dedicated to that.

Just my 2 cents I guess.:)

[Blk Mamba]

Well I'm glad we got that settled.

[GreekGod]

2003 Shop Manual...page 303-01B-1...oil capacity 4.6 4V:

6 (+ or - 0.25 US quarts), with installation of a new filter

----------------------------------------------------

[CKMustangCobra]

I have always ran 6.5qts in my DOHC engines... 7qts in the S/C one.

[fastblackmerc]

I have always ran 6.5qts in my DOHC engines... 7qts in the S/C one.

That maybe alright for a Mustang, but the Marauder takes 6 quarts + alittle. Too much oil is just as bad a too little oil. Too much oil and the crankshaft turns it in to foam and foam don't lubricate too good.

[JACook]

Oh and by the way, NEVER put all your trust in engineers. They screw up just as much as anyone.
They even have shows on TV dedicated to that.

Now that's just funny. I'm not supposed to trust engineers, but I -am- supposed to trust
the teevee? :rolleyes:

Man, this thread just won't die...

[juno]

That maybe alright for a Mustang, but the Marauder takes 6 quarts + alittle. Too much oil is just as bad a too little oil. Too much oil and the crankshaft turns it in to foam and foam don't lubricate too good.

With way too much oil maybe, There is a windage tray in our motors which prevents the foaming. I would think an extra 1/2 quart would be a reasonably safe compromise. It definitely won't hurt and may help.

[Loco1234]

Just go with this pan.....

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o191/Loco4321/PICTURE-151.jpg
inside of the custom oil pan
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o191/Loco4321/PICTURE-167.jpg
with the oil pick up and pickup/trap area cover in place....
='s more oil.........

[bob6364]

The real question here is what is Bob Barker looking at in "fastblackmerc's" avatar...her feet and where can a get the full size pic :D

6 quarts for me...

[HBTMD]

Glad to have found this thread. I took my MM into Pep Boys where I selected Mobil 1 5-20 with Mobil 1 oil filter. The quote for the oil change figured at 5 quarts was $65. When the car was ready the manager told me that it actually took 7 quarts, however the extra 2 quarts was "on the house".

The dip stick read significantly above the hash marks for full however, no dummy lights come on and the car drives as great as ever.

BTW every mechanic in the shop came by to gaze an my MM with Reinhart Cold Air Intake.

From what I read in this thread it sounds like 7 quarts is safe.:stooges:

[ctrlraven]

$65 for an oil change?

Learn to do it yourself and save money.

[TiTo35]

$65 for an oil change?

Learn to do it yourself and save money.


+1 yesir....i agree to that...the money you will save!

[HBTMD]

Let's do some math: 7 quarts of Mobil 1 at $7 per quart = $49. One Mobil 1 Oil Filter = $11. To do it myself would be $60 plus $4.80 tax = $68.40.

For 60 cents more I can look around the store and let them scrape their knuckles and dispose of the old oil. With this environmental stuff I can no longer just dig a hole in my backyard and pour it in.:grad:

[imorb1994]

you are paying way to much for mobil 1 i buy it for $4.35 a quart thats for my explorer
the MM gets what the factory recomends at $2.89 a quart 5w20 motorcraft

[RF Overlord]

you are paying way to much for mobil 1Agreed. A 5-qt jug of M1 at Wally World is $23. An extra quart is $6; you don't need 7 quarts. Don't waste your money on a Mobil 1 oil filter. The factory-recommended Motorcraft FL820S is $3.48. Total cost: $32.48 plus tax.

[HBTMD]

I just got off of the phone with Dennis Reinhart of Reinhart Engineering. I believe Dennis is one of the most knowledgeable people alive when it comes to the MM.He says that both he and Ford Motor Company recommend 6 quarts, however, the way the engine is designed, that 7 quarts won't hurt anything.

Thanks Dennis:bows:

[KillJoy]

:rofl:

KillJoy

[HBTMD]

OK Killjoy.

Please explain why you are laughing your ass off. Have you inhaled some nitrous oxide or what?:stooges:

[pantheroc]

True sometimes the Engineers....but also, in my experience, the bean counters and other manufacturing cost cutters could say 0.5 qts/car saves $$$$ on the production costs. I would trust this checked out by a certified third party verification.


In the Specs chart in the manual it says the capacity is 6.5 qts. 6.5 seems to work fine in mine and the dipstick shows acceptable. But as someone else said each car can have it's own personality. It seems logical to fill it to the point the dipstick says is good.

Oh and by the way, NEVER put all your trust in engineers. They screw up just as much as anyone. They even have shows on TV dedicated to that.

Just my 2 cents I guess.:)