My Car is Overheating at WOT

[Zack]

Very Wierd.
The temperature will soar to 250 degrees at WOT (Kenne Bell Car)
As soon as I get out of the gas, the temp goes down.
Electric waterpump works fine, new cooling fan, thermostat is in good order, new coolant. The coolant is full!

I must have air in the system, but Ive been driving it around for months with no issue.
Normal cruising the temp is right around 200, which may seem high, but remember there is a huge heat pump sitting on top of the engine.

Im gonna switch to a 170 stat for starters and burp the system.

In the 5 years of owning this car, Ive never had this happen. :help:

[magindat]

Zack,
I burp mine by using a funnel with an outlet that fits the x-over tube filler tight. I fix the funnel (semi) water tight to the open filler. I put a head of coolant in the funnel (about 1/2 full as the funnel holds a quart or so). I run the car at idle for about 10 min with the heater on and to warm enough for the t-stat to open. I can see both bubbles and pumping/mixing in the funnel. When the bubbles stop, I quickly and in one motion, remove the funnel and pop in the cap. This has been working for me since I got the car and on several others. I have never had to re-burp the system.

250 is HOT, but coming back down probly means the cooling system is working properly and it's your 'heat pump' causing the temp flare.

Perhaps increase volume, capacity or airflow for the inter-cooler system?

FWIW
Rich

[Zack]

The inlet temps at WOT are about 120-130 Rich. I have a lightning intercooler pump, with a griffin Heat exchanger, and after the blower it passes through a stacked plate cooler. It also has your Air Damn on it!

And I burp the car the same way, it SEEMS to work well!

[magindat]

Then seems like no reason for the spike other than combustion temps goin nuts. You using an octane booster or any other such thing that might jack up combustion temps?

[Zack]

The car lunges backward so much when I romp the gas that its probably moving the coolant around and moving an air pocket to the front, causing the issue.

Im glad I had the opportunity to talk out loud!

[magindat]

To prove or disprove that idea, try driving up hill. Use a low gear that would not normally cause heat. If the bubble 'floats' it would cause the same issue as when the car lunges.

...glad to be a sounding board for whatever it's worth.

[magindat]

Afterthought... burp it on ramps or with the front jacked up....?

[sailsmen]

What type of trans cooler do u have?

Try removing the OEM, add an after market bhind the grill, cut off the ps pump cooler from the trans cooler and hose clamp to the front sway bar.
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/6/7/2/POwersteerinh.jpg

[Krytin]

Have you had to "burp" it more than once?
If you keep finding "air" in the system, there may be combustion/exhaust leaking into the coolant. I've seen enough "one-way" leaks where coolant is not leaking into the engine but high compression is leaking into the coolant. I hope it is not the case but it has happened to me w/my old '68 302cid when I was running 11.5 compression ratio on pump gas.

[Zack]

Have you had to "burp" it more than once?
If you keep finding "air" in the system, there may be combustion/exhaust leaking into the coolant. I've seen enough "one-way" leaks where coolant is not leaking into the engine but high compression is leaking into the coolant. I hope it is not the case but it has happened to me w/my old '68 302cid when I was running 11.5 compression ratio on pump gas.

Very interesting theory. It hadnt even crossed my mind!

I will say, when I put any engine together, I spray a coat of Copper Spray a Gasket on both sides of the head gasket to prevent any pesky leaks.

Its a 9.5:1 engine with 17psi.

[Zack]

Just talked to my buddy at Ford and he thinks its what Krytin said.

Said he sees it all the time on 6.0 Diesels.

He told me to take the cap off the coolant reservoir, then rev it up in park and look for bubbles in he tank.

We shall see.

[FordNut]

Or do a leakdown test.

[KillJoy]

Or do a leakdown test.


That would be easy. Zack CAN'T do easy.

:rolleyes:

:D

KillJoy

[Zack]

Cant believe I left out that is spews coolant everywhere.
Between 1/2 and 1 gallon depending on the duration of WOT.

[Ken]

Cant believe I left out that is spews coolant everywhere.
Between 1/2 and 1 gallon depending on the duration of WOT.Oh, I hate when that happens!:mad2:

Ken

[FordNut]

Cant believe I left out that is spews coolant everywhere.
Between 1/2 and 1 gallon depending on the duration of WOT.

That's an important detail...

Head gasket(s) leaking. Compression check may find it, leakdown test will pinpoint the path that the individual cylinders are leaking through.

[Zack]

All I can say is....
I have a BLUE MM is perfect working order.
Ill keep y'all informed.

[KillJoy]

All I can say is....
I have a SLOW MM is perfect working order.
Ill keep y'all informed.


I fixed ^^^that^^^ for ya!

:D

KillJoy

[Blackened300a]

Have you had to "burp" it more than once?
If you keep finding "air" in the system, there may be combustion/exhaust leaking into the coolant. I've seen enough "one-way" leaks where coolant is not leaking into the engine but high compression is leaking into the coolant. I hope it is not the case but it has happened to me w/my old '68 302cid when I was running 11.5 compression ratio on pump gas.

This makes me nervous, The past 2 times I took my car out I had the temp gauge go up higher then normal, then I would burp it and it would be fine for the rest of the day no matter what kind of driving I do. This weekend I took the car out after it sat for 2 weeks and the temp went up above normal again, I burped it and went to my shop where I drained out the coolant and back filled with new coolant.
On my way home the temp went up slightly past normal then dropped back down to normal. Either my burping procedure is at fault or there is something for me to worry about? :dunno:

EDIT, I opened up my crossover tube and saw it was empty! I filled it up and then let the car idle up to operating temperature. I cracked it open and there were very little bubbles, I then took it for a hard test drive and all is well. I relized my goof over the weekend and the last time I opened the system was when I did the water pump swap. Anyways, problem solved and my car feels quicker that its running cooler.

[O's Fan Rich]

when I fill the car I put the front end up so that the air bleeder fitting on my upper tube is high. Then fill.
I did this with the Subaru ( a real pita for air pockets car) and have been successful.
I then drive it to check and top off as needed.....

[CRUZTAKER]

I will say, when I put any engine together, I spray a coat of Copper Spray a Gasket on both sides of the head gasket to prevent any pesky leaks.....


Yes...yes you do. ;)

[merc]

Yes...yes you do. ;)

What brand of spray did you use? and did you go with factory head gaskets and ARP Studs ? Crack Heads what to know. I am going with Fel-Pro gaskets, but didn't know about the spay thingy. I am couple of weeks away from bolting on the heads.

http://www.painetworks.com/photos/ec/ec0580.JPG

[RCSignals]

What brand of spray did you use? and did you go with factory head gaskets and ARP Studs ? Crack Heads what to know. I am going with Fel-Pro gaskets, but didn't know about the spay thingy. I am couple of weeks away from bolting on the heads.

http://www.painetworks.com/photos/ec/ec0580.JPG

Check with the gasket maker before you spray anything on them. Most head gaskets will not need any Gasket goo.

[Zack]

Use stock gaskets merc, they are on 1000+ horsepower modulars.
And my car does have head studs.
I am going to pull the cam covers and retorque them annd see if it fixes the problem.
ARP says a retorquing of the fasteners is required after a break-in period, but Ive never done it.
Many, many people running head studs NEVER retorqued them, but maybe my car needs it.

[LILALLEYKATT]

Head job time at Zacks house....SO sorry......