Changing fuel filter?

[03mara300b]

Is it an easy job to change the fuel filter on our Marauders? Are there any issues related to the pressure in the line due to being fuel injected? I have only changed fuel filters on carburetor vehicles in the past.

[fastblackmerc]

Release the fule pressure by depressing the schrader valve on the fuel rail on top of the engine. Put a rag around it to catch any fuel that might leak out. The fuel filter is held in by nylon clips, be careful taking the old clips out as the new clips that come with the filter may or may not fit. you can always modify the new ones.

[crouse]

My wifes 2006 Ford Freestyle takes the same fuel filter and the Marauder.

[RF Overlord]

My wifes 2006 Ford Freestyle takes the same fuel filter and the Marauder.How does that help the original poster with his question?

03mara300b, it's very simple. If you wait an hour or so after shutdown, you won't have to depressurise the system. Just be sure you wear safety goggles because either way some gas will squirt out and you don't want it in your eyes. Just remove the plastic clips on the fuel lines (no tools required, but a very small flat-blade screwdriver will be handy), then loosen the hose clamp holding the filter to the bracket, and remove the filter. Install the filter with the arrow pointing forward and re-install the fuel lines and clips. Tighten the hose clamp (careful not to crush the filter canister)...it doesn't need to be super-tight. Walla, you're done.

Hint: DON'T use a FRAM filter...get either a genuine Motorcraft (FG986B) or a WIX/NAPA Gold (same thing) 3595.

[fastblackmerc]

How does that help the original poster with his question?

03mara300b, it's very simple. If you wait an hour or so after shutdown, you won't have to depressurise the system. Just be sure you wear safety goggles because either way some gas will squirt out and you don't want it in your eyes. Just remove the plastic clips on the fuel lines (no tools required, but a very small flat-blade screwdriver will be handy), then loosen the hose clamp holding the filter to the bracket, and remove the filter. Install the filter with the arrow pointing forward and re-install the fuel lines and clips. Tighten the hose clamp (careful not to crush the filter canister)...it doesn't need to be super-tight. Walla, you're done.

Hint: DON'T use a FRAM filter...get either a genuine Motorcraft (FG986B) or a WIX/NAPA Gold (same thing) 3595.

You can also upgrade to a bigger filter. Just use a different clamp to secure the filter to the original bracket. Larger filter number is FG800A.

[03mara300b]

Sounds easy. Thanks for the info.

[RF Overlord]

You can also upgrade to a bigger filter. Just use a different clamp to secure the filter to the original bracket. Larger filter number is FG800A.Good advice, fbm. That's what I did on my blower car, but I've heard it can be beneficial to N/A cars as well.

[sicilianmarquis]

if its the furl filter thats under the car along the chassis......... it take 5 minutes

[Pat]

The check engine lite will come on after you restart the motor. If you have a flasher with the option of clearing faults then no problem or know someone who has such a device. Maybe your local auto parts/service store will do it for you for free.

Otherwise you have two options, take it to the dealer and be prepared to pay a service charge or drive so many Ford driving cycles which takes a Loooooonnnnnngggg time before the fault clears itself. FWIW.

[Bradley G]

That brings me back to the Blower install two years ago, I changed the fuel filter at the same time.
I also went with the bigger one.
The check engine lamp came on too!
Like was already said it took a while to go off!
The check engine lite will come on after you restart the motor. If you have a flasher with the option of clearing faults then no problem or know someone who has such a device. Maybe your local auto parts/service store will do it for you for free.

Otherwise you have two options, take it to the dealer and be prepared to pay a service charge or drive so many Ford driving cycles which takes a Loooooonnnnnngggg time before the fault clears itself. FWIW.

[04MEMA]

How does that help the original poster with his question?

03mara300b, it's very simple. If you wait an hour or so after shutdown, you won't have to depressurise the system. Just be sure you wear safety goggles because either way some gas will squirt out and you don't want it in your eyes. Just remove the plastic clips on the fuel lines (no tools required, but a very small flat-blade screwdriver will be handy), then loosen the hose clamp holding the filter to the bracket, and remove the filter. Install the filter with the arrow pointing forward and re-install the fuel lines and clips. Tighten the hose clamp (careful not to crush the filter canister)...it doesn't need to be super-tight. Walla, you're done.

Hint: DON'T use a FRAM filter...get either a genuine Motorcraft (FG986B) or a WIX/NAPA Gold (same thing) 3595.



What's wrong with the FRAM? I have one sitting out in the garage yet to put in...

[03mara300b]

Remember the old days when you did not have to worry about computer errors, codes, etc. Of course they do run much better now with modern technology. ( usually )

[RF Overlord]

What's wrong with the FRAM? I have one sitting out in the garage yet to put in...I had 2 FRAM fuel filters, on 2 different Tauri, turn to hunks of ugly flaky rust in very short order while the Motorcraft on my Marauder still looked fine. Same roads, same time-frame. I realise it's what's on the inside that counts, but one of the FRAMs had already begun to leak, and the other was not far behind. Crapola...

FRAM air filters are still good, though...