4.10 Rear Gear install pricing?

[ctrlraven]

I was quoted by a local speed shop that does a ton of Motive gear installs and guy quoted me $320 (including fluid) for the job.

Does this sound too high, low or about right?


Edit: Price includes doing the master rebuild kit and axle bearing replacement kit.

[rvaldez1]

Sounds about right for a speedshop install

[MarauderMark]

I was quoted by a local speed shop that does a ton of Motive gear installs and guy quoted me $320 (including fluid) for the job.

Does this sound too high, low or about right?

I paid $350.00 , $450.00 and $1,100.00 the last time..

[FormulaMarauder]

I paid $350.00 , $450.00 and $1,100.00 the last time..


que?

[dreydin]

wow, i didnt realize getting 4:10s was so cheap? =o

[MarauderMark]

I paid $350.00 , $450.00 and $1,100.00 the last time..


wow, i didnt realize getting 4:10s was so cheap? =o

1st and 2nd time did not include the purchase price of the 4:10'..the last time included everything in the rear axles, spider gears , ring and pinion all eaton..

[SC Cheesehead]

Sounds reasonable.

You getting a new tune with it? 4:10's will throw off speedo and shift schedule.

SCCH

[ctrlraven]

Sounds reasonable.

You getting a new tune with it? 4:10's will throw off speedo and shift schedule.

SCCH

Yep, just waiting to get paid to buy a tune file from Lidio then have them installed.

[ts-pa]

The price sounds good, if it includes the items you mentioned.

Did you consider gettting a Limited Slip Differential while you are at it? Maybe even consider changing to 31 spline axles if your planning on going over 450 rwhp in future?

[ctrlraven]

Price is just for doing the install (labor and fluid) only. I am providing the gears, master rebuild kit, axle bearings and rear diff. cover.

I thought about the 31 spline axles but I won't be hitting more than 330rwhp anytime soon.

[ts-pa]

Still, $350 for just the labor sounds reasonable.

You didn't answer about the LSD (not the drug;) )
Is the diff cover the thick aluminum one?

[ctrlraven]

I will upgrade the LSD when I do the 31 spline axles. I bought the TA Performance diff cover from Wes along with the stud kit. My pants got a little tight when I took it out of the box and saw how beautiful it was lol.

[SMOKE]

I'd expect to pay about $80/hr around here...prices seem to hover around the 4 hour mark...

I have 4:10's in my future and am seriously considering the cover Wes has....surely looks like a nice piece!

JWM

[ts-pa]

Those covers do look good!

I ask about the LSD since you didn't mention one.
You could get this (http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField= 221) very basic one for the meantime, it is very reasonably priced.

[ctrlraven]

I'd expect to pay about $80/hr around here...prices seem to hover around the 4 hour mark...

I have 4:10's in my future and am seriously considering the cover Wes has....surely looks like a nice piece!

JWM

For the diff cover and stud kit, $179.99 shipped free to my door, I just couldn't pass that up. Wes is da man.


Those covers do look good!

I ask about the LSD since you didn't mention one.
You could get this (http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField= 221) very basic one for the meantime, it is very reasonably priced.

It is priced well but I would end up later on with a used 28 spline LSD that will just sit on my shelf cause no one would want to buy it. I'll just wait until I do the 31 spline axles within the next year time period.

[ts-pa]

It is priced well but I would end up later on with a used 28 spline LSD that will just sit on my shelf cause no one would want to buy it. I'll just wait until I do the 31 spline axles within the next year time period.

I understand your point, didn't know that you are considering another rebuild in about a year.

If you were to go longer than a year between rebuilds, then you can sell the basic LSD to someone who owns a GM/CV/TC. There are many without one.

Unless if you really NEED a rebuild now, you might be better off cost wise to wait and rebuild once with all of the parts that you really want.

[ctrlraven]

I understand what your saying. When I bought the 4.10 gears they came with the master rebuild kit and axle bearings for free. It may be a year or never I don't know just depends on if enough funds are free at one point and I pick up a s/c. I'm kind of working backwards, I'm going to start with the rear, then do the trans, build a motor and then become Trilogized. The shop has a flat rate at $320 regardless if I do or don't do the rebuild so why not just get it all done. I'll be clicking 81k miles by the end of the month so figure why not just do it anyways while the diff is cracked open and when I do upgrade the LSD it will be for 31 spline.

All I know is I sat down and figured out what I had in my 401k minus the 30% hit and could do a s/c and built trans. I am really having to control myself on not spending that money lol.

[ts-pa]

I was considering doing the 31 build up on my rebuild. The cost diff. was about $670. So, I figured that since it will be at least one year until I get a power adder, I will rebuild at that time. Now, I'm thinking of just keeping what I have. Rebuilding to a 31 only if there is a problem.

I needed that $670 to go for all of the DOHC swap costs. If I didn't have the swap costs to worry about, such as your situation, I would have gone for the full 31 rebuild.

Something else to consider...if you need new axles, you might want to go ahead and get the 31 axles right away. If that were the case, go for the LSD that you want then. Spending about $600 now for the LSD would save you another $350+ in another rebuild later.

[SMOKE]

All I know is I sat down and figured out what I had in my 401k minus the 30% hit and could do a s/c and built trans. I am really having to control myself on not spending that money lol.



Woomph...DO NOT go there! :D

CONTROL grasshopper (not something any of us really have with these cars!). . .but I'm older and you have to listen to me ;).

JWM

[ts-pa]

Ohh, dipping into your 401k, ouch! I did that once, just to payoff debt while I had a low paying job for a while.
It takes a long time and/or more monthly funds later to recover that. Your still young yet, it is very good to have a 401k to let time do it's thing.
Try for a personal loan from a bank first, getting as much as possible. The interest on a loan would suck, but it would give you a chance to build your credit up and then it would allow you to take out as little as possible from 401k.

I'm no financial guru, just been there, learn from us older fools, er..folks. ;)

[ctrlraven]

Yeah I know I'm not going to touch it I care too much about my future for my family and I to do that.

[ts-pa]

Yeah I know I'm not going to touch it I care too much about my future for my family and I to do that.

Good man, now your showing wisdom! Sorry that your thread changed from 4.10's to 401k. Well at least it has the same digits.

I can appreciate your desire to go faster as most of us here have that same goal. I was even tempted to buy a power adder recently after seeing some used ones show up for sale on the forums. That would be too much for this year. I'm almost ready to meet my goal for this year though of getting my car to be similar or better than a stock Marauder in performance.

As much as it pains me, I'm going to try to restrain myself from getting a power adder without saving for at least 1/2 of the costs beforehand. Sort of a compromise between loading up the credit cards by getting it now vs. waiting to save in order to pay it for it in full. This also allows you time to consider if the goal is worthwhile. My wise Uncle told me to have from 25-50% saved for an item before purchase in order to reduce your debt load. This also goes well with banks lending you a smaller amount with a good "down payment", sometimes you can get better interest rates this way. Now if you NEED an important item now, such as a refridgerator, you need to get it now by whatever means.

OK, older guy lecture over....

I know your goal is to get to 13's with the fewest mods. Where are you at now? The popular option is to get the gears, so it does seem like a logical step for you.
If you definately plan on doing the rear in stages, maybe you should buy someones used LSD unit (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/8-8-traction-loc-28-Spline-Ford-Mustang-Cobra-GT-LX_W0QQitemZ280164209185QQihZ0 18QQcategoryZ33731QQssPageName ZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem). Then when you do your next rebuild, pass it along cheap to someone doing the same stages. I hear that they are easy and cheap (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/5-0-Ford-Mustang-Truck-8-8-Posi-Unit-Rebuild-Clutch-Kit_W0QQitemZ120173820492QQihZ 002QQcategoryZ33731QQssPageNam eZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem) to rebuild, so a junkyard part might save you a lot. They are in a lot of Mustangs, check out their forums for sale listings. Maybe ebay, such as this (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-8-8-limited-slip-HD-differential-31-spline_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcateg oryZ33731QQihZ011QQitemZ320171 121399QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW) one or this (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mustang-Ford-5-0-347-Tracloc-Diff-31-spline-posi-8-8_W0QQitemZ280164209119QQihZ01 8QQcategoryZ33731QQssPageNameZ WDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem) one? If I had one sitting around after rebuilding mine, I'd give it away.
It might be cheaper to buy the LSD unit in order to save replacing the right rear tire often. Just keep your burnouts for the track and one cool video!:)

[ts-pa]

Hey Chris,

In your video (http://videos.streetfire.net/video/wm/fddd2e03-391d-45d0-a458-98310149bab5.htm), at the 3:00-4:00 area, you do a burnout with both wheels spinning. Do you already have a LSD?

[ctrlraven]

I thought the car came with a LSD from factory. Both of my tires have always turned at the same time.

I was trying to get into the 13's without gears or torque converter which I came close to. I ended up getting a PI 3500 stall converter which I also ended up and still do need a proper tune to correct it. DR sent me an update tune file but it would lock the converter up at 37mph, unlock it somewhere between 55-60mph and then lock up again above 65mph. It's slipping all over the place and I actually ended up running slower with a best of 14.40. I contacted Lidio to see if he could help me out and advise me to def. get the 4.10 gears install along with the tune he will write for me. Low end I can smoke the tires then it bogs down and above 70mph it will just pull hard. At MVV while racing against some close (time and modded) vehicles I would get the jump, then by 1/8th bog down while I would get passed and then getting close to the finish line I would start closing in quick.

[ts-pa]

Hey Chris,

This is embarrasing, I forgot that the Marauder has LSD from Ford as confirmed by this thread (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?p=87009#post870 09). This explains the video burnout. There is no need for you to get one, maybe just a rebuild when you change the gears.

[ts-pa]

I thought the car came with a LSD from factory. Both of my tires have always turned at the same time.

I was trying to get into the 13's without gears or torque converter which I came close to. I ended up getting a PI 3500 stall converter which I also ended up and still do need a proper tune to correct it. DR sent me an update tune file but it would lock the converter up at 37mph, unlock it somewhere between 55-60mph and then lock up again above 65mph. It's slipping all over the place and I actually ended up running slower with a best of 14.40. I contacted Lidio to see if he could help me out and advise me to def. get the 4.10 gears install along with the tune he will write for me. Low end I can smoke the tires then it bogs down and above 70mph it will just pull hard. At MVV while racing against some close (time and modded) vehicles I would get the jump, then by 1/8th bog down while I would get passed and then getting close to the finish line I would start closing in quick.

I wonder why it unlocks at 55-65, could it be sensing the need for a downshift at this point? I also wonder how it will go if you make a run with the OD off, manually turning it on once your past 65-70. Wouldn't this in effect force the trans to hold third gear until your past the bog down point?

[ctrlraven]

Guess we both learned something today lol.

[ctrlraven]

I wonder why it unlocks at 55-65, could it be sensing the need for a downshift at this point? I also wonder how it will go if you make a run with the OD off, manually turning it on once your past 65-70. Wouldn't this in effect force the trans to hold third gear until your past the bog down point?

Why it unlocks is anyones guess? I do drive with the OD off until I get up to only highway speeds or traveling along 50 (where OD kicks in on normal light throttle) for a steady period.

I'm not really going to worry about that issue for much longer.

These are like the complete kit I bought. Same company off ebay, same product listing.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4-10-GEARS-REBUILD-FORD-8-8-MUSTANG-MOTIVE-GEAR_W0QQitemZ110168302132QQcm dZViewItem?hash=item1101683021 32

[GordonB]

Clutch packs to have to be replaced in LSDs after a lot of miles, but shouldn't need it 'til about 100K. FWIW.
GordonB

[ctrlraven]

Clutch packs to have to be replaced in LSDs after a lot of miles, but shouldn't need it 'til about 100K. FWIW.
GordonB

Thanks for the reminder cause I remember someone saying something about it before but totally forgot about it. I'm at 81k miles now so why the guy is doing everything might as well get the clutch packs replaced also.