View Full Version : My LSD Went South....
I think my Limited Slip Differential went south yesterday.
James79Stang and I went drag racing Sunday and on the first pass I had no traction and max smoke. James thought I was just spinning one wheel. Did a second pass with the same results. He then noticed that the black tar residue was all on the passenger side lower rear panel whereas the drivers side was as clean as a whistle.
Last time I went drag racing was at MV-V and all seemed fine there. Street operations since then seemed OK.
A search revealed others have experienced this problem. So, it's off to the repair shop where I will have an Eaton LSD installed in place of the OEM one.
I'm thinking $250.00 for parts and $300.00 for labor. Is that about right????
fastblackmerc
10-28-2007, 11:12 AM
Sounds about right.
Shora
10-28-2007, 05:16 PM
Is there a way to check/ test the LSD without doing a burnout?
Can one lift the rear end on jacks and test it somehow?
sailsmen
10-28-2007, 05:17 PM
To get the LSD to work you need to hit the throttle.
If you slow ease into it one wheel will spin.
U might try a test burn out before bringing it in.
Is there a way to check/ test the LSD without doing a burnout?
Can one lift the rear end on jacks and test it somehow?
There is a test procedure listed in the FM. These can be rebuilt (new clutches) pretty cheep as well.
Shora
10-28-2007, 10:32 PM
There is a test procedure listed in the FM. These can be rebuilt (new clutches) pretty cheep as well.
What I really want to know is if the LSD can be tested without going to the dealer and without doing a burn out. Something to do at home to make sure all is ok before taking it to the dealer.
bigmerc'03
10-29-2007, 12:54 AM
eaton is the way to go you mit as well change the axles to
Bradley G
10-29-2007, 04:27 AM
I get the feeling my days with the stock carrier, are numbered Too.
How many miles on your car Pat?
MADRODER
10-29-2007, 04:37 AM
Let us know how the install went..........
MADRODER
10-29-2007, 04:39 AM
let us know......
Dragcity
10-29-2007, 06:16 AM
Mine went out too. Going with the Ford Motor Sports Carbon Fiber clutch kit. That should do it.
fastblackmerc
10-29-2007, 06:20 AM
There is a way to add an additional clutch to the clutch pack.
O's Fan Rich
10-29-2007, 08:22 AM
MY LSD is going South this Thursday... all the way to Commerce.....
Sorry, couldn't resist....
My stocker left this world last year and was replaced with a Eaton unit.
Stranger in the Black Sedan
10-29-2007, 11:14 AM
How many miles before you toasted the stock LSD? It is a really, really non-aggressive unit. At 28k miles, mine works fine but I could tell when I had the rear apart to do gears, that it sure doesn't take too much torque to overcome the clutches. Damn S spring limited slips!!
bigmerc'03
10-29-2007, 11:34 AM
i got rid of my stocker when i bought the moser axles the size difference is night and day the stocker u can hold in one hand the eaton is about double its size and strength mabe even triple
Jon01
10-29-2007, 12:14 PM
I'd keep the stock unit if the car is fairly mild, Eaton's aren't all that much better and once they wear out they're garbage from what I understand.
The stock t-lock is very simple to rebuild, $40 in clutches and a $10 S-spring from an F150 will really tighten it up.
Here's a good link to read up on the process for this and a gear swap.
http://www.corral.net/tech/drivetrain/gears.html
My experience may differ but I have yet to have a problem with the 31 spline t-lock from an Explorer in my Mustang that put down 540+rwhp. There's no need to spend the $ for an Eaton to go in 99% of the cars on this site unless you enjoy just spending it in which case spend away.
Especially when the OEM piece has so many benefits.
Went to the repair shop today and they quoted me the book labor cost to be $375 plus parts and fluids. If there's any thing else in there that needs replacing the cost for parts will increase but labor should stay the same.
I'm going with the FMC OEM repair kit and that should do it. I have not done a lot of drag racing, prolly less than 20 passes over the past three years. I have a little "street time" but a not much. The car has 51k on the meter.
I'll have it repaired in about ten days, the shop techs are tightly scheduled for November. This is a performance shop not the dealer.
Jon01
10-29-2007, 03:30 PM
$375 is crazy for just rebuilding the stock t-lock. You don't have to pull the diff to replace the clutches. It's a job that would take the average guy with basic hand tools an afternoon in the garage.
Read that link I posted, it tells you exactly how to do it with some very basic hand tools.
You might try just changing the fluid if it hasn't been changed before, that brings them back from the dead frequently. Mine was resurected by changing the fluid(it'd been in there almost 30k) with some Royal Purple and it works like clockwork now, even with 130k+ on the odometer.
$375 is crazy for just rebuilding the stock t-lock. You don't have to pull the diff to replace the clutches. It's a job that would take the average guy with basic hand tools an afternoon in the garage.
Read that link I posted, it tells you exactly how to do it with some very basic hand tools.
You might try just changing the fluid if it hasn't been changed before, that brings them back from the dead frequently. Mine was resurected by changing the fluid(it'd been in there almost 30k) with some Royal Purple and it works like clockwork now, even with 130k+ on the odometer.
All true. If you just change the fluid don't add friction modifier...the modifier makes em slip with less chatter and the RP has it in it. $375 to rebuild it? Including parts, Id do it, labor only? Not a good deal IMO. I've done a few and I'd say its worth the money to have someone do it, but I'd shop that number, you prolly wont find anyone to do it for less than $300 tho (my guess...FWIW) :beer:
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2025 vBulletin Solutions Inc. All rights reserved.