Battery load testing?

[Leadfoot281]

The truck saga continues...

I put my starter back on the truck tonight and it started right up. I allowed it warm up and drove it home.

Several hours later I tried to start it. I acted like it wanted to crank. It seemed like it didn't have enough juice to fully engage the starter. After a couple more tries I got the "clickity, click, click" of the start solenoid.

I cleaned the battery connections and retried it. I got the same.

Clearly the battery was weak. I tested it with my multimeter. 12.9 volts. I tried the headlights... Nothing.

Now I suspect a ground problem. With 12.9 volts the head lights should come on too. All connections from battery to starter are tight.

Is there a way I can load test the battery with my mulitmeter? :confused: This battery is 5 years old and may have good voltage but be low on amps.

[finster101]

You can have voltage and not have enough amperage to handle the load. First what kind of truck is it? You can not load test the battery with a multi meter. Take it to a shop or parts store to get it checked. My bet is the battery is toast.

[cyclopsram]

Check the frqme/body end of the ground and the connection at the starter and relay..some units pick up accessory voltage at the starter relay. then jump it with another vehicle.. if it starts, the battery is in need of the Wally World vacation, turned in as a core and a ride in a shopping basket.

[Leadfoot281]

The truck is a 4speed '83 F150 with the 300I6. The starter is a $44 reman from O'Reilly auto parts.

I checked battery voltage today. I still had 12.8 volts. I tried jumping it with the CV. Got the same "clicking" from the start solenoid. That car has a new battery. Putting the battery on a charger for 2 hours had the same effect.

I still suspect a grounding issue. The ground from the battery was hooked to the one of the two starter bolts. When I installed the new starter I re-installed it the same way. The truck started immediately.

Two hours later, the truck won't start/crank.

I have not found a block-to-ground connection yet. I've seen Chevy trucks that had a braided steel cable hooked from block/cyclinder head to firewall connection. This one does not have that.

I think my next step is to pull the starter and test it. Any other ideas?

[Leadfoot281]

I took the new starter to a battery shop and had it tested. Bad! They said to take it back where I got it. I did. Then they tested it...twice. Good both times. :confused:

So I bought a battery and all new cables. Total...$65.

In 7 years my opperating costs are:

1983 F150 4x4... Free
Insurance/ registration... $0.00
Oil changes/filters/ect.... $0.00
Repairs (Carb kit, battery, air cleaner assembly, and cables)... $115.00

Heating bill avoided by cutting firewood.

$500/month x5 months/year x 7years= $17,500.00

Biggest problem with the truck seems to be the cheapskate behind the wheel. Maybe I'll finally change the oil one day too.

[Richy04]

Load testing a battery requires just that, a load tester.. Which is three things.. A volt meter when connected, then when you flick the load switch, it become an ammeter and introduces a nichrome coil across the positive an negative terminals and indicates the load on the battery on the meter..

A good battery will dip a little as it goes thru the coils. A bad battery will dip alot.. Just replaced my battery last week, it made it thru 3 years and crapped out..