Dun Dun Dunnnnnn

[ctrlraven]

Just changed my oil and I knew their was some dirt on the top of the oil drain pan but after all the came out I started to notice a lot of what looked like bubbles. Let all the oil drain down and then ran a magnet over everything and well picked up 2 pieces the size of a pin head (maybe a little bigger) and about a dozen or so small pin point size pieces.

I thought with the FilterMag on the oil filter it was suppose to capture crap like that, guess not. I haven't had any problems with the engine or anything. I guess next oil change in 3k miles I'll drain the oil over a magnetic screen and see what shows up. Normally I have been going an oil change at 4-5k mile intervals or sooner if I had the stuff and time to do so.

I'm at 83,600 miles now and ESP warranty runs out at 88 or 89k miles lol.

[Pat]

Isn't there a Chilton's or Motors book that discusses objects discovered in the oil during routine changes?

Could this be "bearing" material or oil pump material. May be normal wear for a motor with 80+K.

There are places that can analyze your oil and tell you for sure, do a search on this site. You may then be able to make preparations for eventualities.

[MERCMAN]

An oil thread is what Bob lives for(that and making the Bunny happy) Lets get our resident oil expert to chime in on this :)

[Haggis]

Where oh where did our little Bob go? Oh where oh where did he go?


Calling all cars, calling all cars be on the look out for Bob.




MARY!!!!!


What did you do with Bob?

[MM03MOK]

OK OK I found this thread.....Guess Bob missed the translation memo on the title of the thread. heehee ;)

[RF Overlord]

Well, since you picked it up with a magnet, you know it's not aluminium so that clears your heads, pistons, and block anyway.

You said the oil drain pan was dirty to begin with...are you sure it's not possible the metal flecks were already in the pan? In this case, the best course of action is to run the new oil for a few hundred miles while you wait for your free oil sampling kit from Blackstone. Send them a fresh sample (follow their collection instructions) and see what they say.

Another thought: what brand filter are you using? If it's anything other than a Motorcraft, it most likely has the bypass valve at the dome end, which allows oil to wash over the dirty side of the filter element anytime the filter is in bypass, such as on a cold start. This could be dislodging some of what the FilterMag has picked up. The Motorcraft FL-820S has the bypass valve in the threaded end, as Ford recommends, which prevents this condition.

[ckadiddle]

Those bits are the undigestible parts of a Honda Civic.

[ctrlraven]

Well, since you picked it up with a magnet, you know it's not aluminium so that clears your heads, pistons, and block anyway.

You said the oil drain pan was dirty to begin with...are you sure it's not possible the metal flecks were already in the pan? In this case, the best course of action is to run the new oil for a few hundred miles while you wait for your free oil sampling kit from Blackstone. Send them a fresh sample (follow their collection instructions) and see what they say.

Another thought: what brand filter are you using? If it's anything other than a Motorcraft, it most likely has the bypass valve at the dome end, which allows oil to wash over the dirty side of the filter element anytime the filter is in bypass, such as on a cold start. This could be dislodging some of what the FilterMag has picked up. The Motorcraft FL-820S has the bypass valve in the threaded end, as Ford recommends, which prevents this condition.

I use a K&N (free but I have to get them from my friend) and it's usually a Motorcraft one. Yeah I already have a Blackstone sample kit, just need to find it. When I change the oil again I'll make sure the drain pan is clean and drain the oil through a magnetic screen thing I have. I'll have to pick up that bypass valve, thanks for the tip on that and the P/N.


Those bits are the undigestible parts of a Honda Civic.
Funny you say that cause one of my friends that I was hanging out with at a local car meet this past Saturday said almost the same thing lol.

Since owning my MM I've only had one Honda (civic) actually step up and want to do something. It was quickly short lived as I was around through the intersection while he was still wheel hopping hitting vtec at the line lol.

[harryo]

I have my oil tested every other oil change at Blackstone Labs They give you a great report that tells you everything in your oil. http://www.blackstone-labs.com/gas_engines.html

[RF Overlord]

I use a K&N (free but I have to get them from my friend) and it's usually a Motorcraft one. Not sure what you meant here. Are you saying that you usually use the Motorcraft filter and only used a K&N this last time?
I'll have to pick up that bypass valve, thanks for the tip on that and the P/N.Not sure what you meant here, either. The bypass valve is as integral part of the filter itself, not something separate. The part number I referenced is for the Motorcraft oil filter that is recommended for this motor.

[wchain]

I think the strainer Mesh would be too fine to pick up particles of that size, no?

IIRC, Ford Motorcraft is one of the few Manufacturers that use a Silicone Anti Drainback Valve.

The OEM Filters in our cars are made By Champion Labs.

Replacement Motorcraft FL820S is apparently made by Purolator, and the material inside is the same as the Purolator Pure one element, which is their premium line of filter.

On Edit,
heres what RF is talking about.

Here's a cut up FL820S...
http://home.mindspring.com/%7Ecewhite3nc/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/fl-820s_2.jpg

http://home.mindspring.com/%7Ecewhite3nc/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/fl-280s_rv_1a.jpg


FWIW, K&N's relief Valve is located on the top.

GUESS WHAT? THe Wal Mart ST2 Filter has it in the correct place, as does AutoZones STP S2 Oil Filter but its a cheap spring loaded affair, not as nice as the 820S

The ScAMSOIL Filter has it located in the dome.

The FL-820S relief valve is far more elaborate and expensive than the relief valve design used by any of the other filters. So why does Ford go to all this trouble for a relatively inexpensive filter, while all of the other premium filters, including filters that cost 4 times as much make do with a dome end relief valve? has to be a reason! I'll run FL820S in all my cars Thank you very much.

[ctrlraven]

Funny I just put on a Purolator PureONE filter PL24651. I just looked at the spare one I bought and I can see the Anti-Drain back valve. Never noticed that before. Thanks for the picture diagram Wes.

So the Purolator PureONE filter would be fine to use?

[wchain]

Funny I just put on a Purolator PureONE filter PL24651. I just looked at the spare one I bought and I can see the Anti-Drain back valve. Never noticed that before. Thanks for the picture diagram Wes.

So the Purolator PureONE filter would be fine to use?

Well, the bypass on the Pureone is on the dome side, so, no. use the Motorcraft one.

The 820S uses the Pureone Element, but the bypass is on the threaded side, which is what you want.
Wes