8 amp electrical supply in trunk?

[lifespeed]

I need to add a trailer light adapter to my '04 Marauder. Basically, this is a transistorized module that connects to the turn signal, tail light, and reverse light wires. It powers the trailer using an 8 amp input, while using the vehicles lighting circuits only as signals. This saves the lighting control module on the tow vehicle from extra current draw.

But a medium-current power supply is required to provide the juice from the transistor module to the trailer. With all the goodies in the trunk, CD changer, subwoofer, etc, I would think it likely that power is available. I'm not that familiar with this particular cars wiring, though. The wire size required would be 12 gauge, and a 20 amp fuse would probably be sufficient.

Are any of you familiar with what electrical is available in the trunk from the factory? Can I just hook into the subwoofer amp circuit? Are there any unused circuits placed there like in the police cars (dreaming :P )?

Lifespeed

[magindat]

The factory sub amp is powered with a 25 amp constant supply from the front fuse box. If you unplug the harness from the amp you will find 2 red and 2 yellow wires of about 14 gauge each. Reds are ground and yellows are constant +12. Using 2x14 saves harness size and expense and are roughly equivalent to an 11 (Which I know doesn't exist, but 2x14 is between 10 and 12). And yes, I am sure red is ground. I've tested many. I have no idea why it's apparently backwards.

As always check with a meter to be sure. :rolleyes:

You should have no issue using this supply occasionally. It shouldn't interfere with running the sub as the factory amp can't possibly use all 25 amps as that would mean it's a 300W amp and it's not! (lucky is it's 50, I've only ever measured 34 from one).

In any event, if it made you feel better, simply unplug the sub when you are towing and using the circuit.

There is no usable 12v switched source in the trunk.

You can take this harness entirely out of the car to work on it. It plugs into the amp and has a clip holding it to the back of the sub box assembly. Test polarity first, then, remove the clip by pulling back (toward the front of the car) and down and follow the harness to behind the sub where you can unplug the 'pigtail' harness from the harness fixed to the sheet metal. Do your wiring work and replace as removed.

[lifespeed]

Thanks for the info! That should be more than adequate. No point in running a wire up to the battery if the factory provides a 25 amp circuit already.

[Local Boy]

Thanks Magindat...

Learned something new!...Again...

ALOHA

[ctrlraven]

Interesting info.