View Full Version : From the guy who does everything different...
magindat
02-11-2008, 08:36 AM
First things first. I HATE my line lock. I can never seem to get enough pedal pressure to keep the car from 'creeping' when locked. I'm uncoordinated and nervous on the line and I really hate not being able to 'feel' the brakes.
That said....
What if I changed the lines and put the line lock on the rear brakes. It would lock out the pressure from going to the rear. I'd be saving my rear pads and not having to overcome their hold. In other words, just like a line lock should. All the controls would be the same. Just hold the button at some point when the brakes aren't applied and use the brake pedal 'normally'.
Think this is gonna set off the ABS or anything?
I'm even thinking of going as far as using a manual valve to turn off the rear brakes entirely, but I'm afraid the car won't handle right after the run with front brakes only.
Thoughts, opinions, discussion, experience?
Blackmobile
02-11-2008, 09:03 AM
First things first. I HATE my line lock. I can never seem to get enough pedal pressure to keep the car from 'creeping' when locked. I'm uncoordinated and nervous on the line and I really hate not being able to 'feel' the brakes.
That said....
What if I changed the lines and put the line lock on the rear brakes. It would lock out the pressure from going to the rear. I'd be saving my rear pads and not having to overcome their hold. In other words, just like a line lock should. All the controls would be the same. Just hold the button at some point when the brakes aren't applied and use the brake pedal 'normally'.
Think this is gonna set off the ABS or anything?
I'm even thinking of going as far as using a manual valve to turn off the rear brakes entirely, but I'm afraid the car won't handle right after the run with front brakes only.
Thoughts, opinions, discussion, experience?
AH! Rich,
If the line lock won't hold your MM from creeping using the front brake power(Which is the where the majority of your brake power is at) Then there is NO chance the back brake power will hold the car still, unless you don't have the brakes applied at all. With the problem I remember you having a problem before with the LL, so you may need to rebuild the unit, with new seals. I use mine almost daily and have very little problem with holding the car Still.
magindat
02-11-2008, 09:09 AM
I did rebuild it. Didn't we have a problem with the fittings going in too deep and rubbing the plunger? That may be (may have always been) my problem.
I'm not trying to hold the car still with the back brakes. I'm suggesting locking the line so that they never see brake pressure when I apply the brakes (in this case front only) for the burnout.
Blackmobile
02-11-2008, 09:11 AM
If you are talking about engaging the LL before adding brake preasure, then you would need to release the brake and then release the LL, which would be a bit hairy if not done in the proper time frame. I've engaged the LL and then hit the brake and the preasure behind the LL was unbelieveably high but then again that's not what it was designed for. I would not recomend.
sailsmen
02-11-2008, 09:11 AM
With the way your car is set up there is no advantage to raising the rpms at the line.
Just nail it.
USe your line lock for the burn out.
Blackmobile
02-11-2008, 09:13 AM
Now I remember, Hurst unit had a screen in the way, but the B&M didn't have a screen at all.
Blackmobile
02-11-2008, 09:14 AM
With the way your car is set up there is no advantage to raising the rpms at the line.
Just nail it.
USe your line lock for the burn out.
It's hard to do when the car is creeping toward the tree.
magindat
02-11-2008, 09:16 AM
With the way your car is set up there is no advantage to raising the rpms at the line.
Just nail it.
USe your line lock for the burn out.
It's not for the line. I always creeped even on burnout. Figured I wasn't pushing the pedal hard enough or something.
I may just remove it altogether. Aside from forgetting to shift after pulling into the box, I burnt out just fine in Atlanta without the LL. It wasn't working when we were there.
ctrlraven
02-11-2008, 09:30 AM
LL is for sissies, foot brake is a real mans game lol.
sailsmen
02-11-2008, 09:30 AM
What works for me.
Tilt the side mirrors down
Back into the water box
Pull sligtly out of the water box when given the burn out signal
Hit the throttle hard to let the LS engage
When I see white smoke in the side mirrors let up on brake
Spin towards the line and let off throttle
Creep to Stage
It sounded like you were trying to use a line lock as a trans brake.
magindat
02-11-2008, 09:32 AM
LL is for sissies, foot brake is a real mans game lol.
I'm beginning to think that. With the new bigger diameter tires, wider, and wider wheels on the way, I really only want to clean them off at the line and warm them, but not like using slicks and get 'em all sticky and gooey.
If foot brake don't work with the new tires, I'll pursue the LL. But I think it will cuz it worked with slicks and I'll ditch the LL.
I agree with sailsman, he does the way I was taught.
ctrlraven
02-11-2008, 10:08 AM
I started drag racing with a 5spd 348rwhp/413tq foxbody so when I took the MM to the track for the first time I felt like such a n00b, left traction control on at the line (not during the burnout) and wasn't pre-loading the converter at the line.
magindat
02-11-2008, 10:11 AM
I agree with sailsman, he does the way I was taught.
Yeah, me too. I don't know how you guys got to thinkin I was using it on the line. Just the burnout box.
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