Rear Brakes

[Zack]

Im having 4:10's installed in the BLUE this week, so I decided to break the rotors loose from the axles to save the installer the extra work and $$$$ out of my wallet. It turned out exactly how I expected...BAD!

The rear rotors fuse themselves to the axles after a while, and it takes a lot of time and patience to seperate the two. Have a Mapp gas torch and brass hammer at the ready. ;)

After you break them loose, you then realize that the rotor is beat up pretty good. You also realize turning the rotor is pointless when a new rotor costs $37 from NAPA.

SO... I bought 2 new rotors, CERAMIX Brake Pads, and Standard Emergency brake shoes.
(Remember me telling you the E-Brake self destructed? Well, the lining just un-bonded itself and was floating around in there :bigcry:)
Some members have eliminated the E-break altogether, but I didnt want to get caught without it in a time of need, so I decided to rebuild them.

Parts from NAPA added up to $200, but I still have my High School discount which brought the total down to $147 with tax :D

Fast forward...the E-brake is pretty east to R&R, just clean everything up good :up:

The result... WOW. I recently installed Wildwoods and wasnt 100% impressed. With the rears being freshened up with the Ceramix Pads, I can honestly say Im happy with the braking now. :beer:

FYI, my car has 58k on it and I swear it had the original rear brakes.
Get the Ceramix pads for the front and the rear, you will not be disappointed ;)

[ctrlraven]

Interesting info on the E-brake. Mine has been funny for a while but still works without a problem.

I totally agree about the Ceramix pads! I had installed EBC dimpled/slotted rotors, EBC green stuff pads (street pads) and the KVR ss brake lines. After about a month or so I could not stand the sound they made when I braked and did not feel safe trying to slow down or stop above 45 mph. My mechanic took a look at the front brakes and he said the EBC green stuff pads were actually eating up the rotors and advised me to get new pads asap. Thanks to Zack with giving me the heads up on the Napa pads I got them installed right away and brakes felt actually like they should of from the start. I just recently replace my rear brakes after 80-85k miles (cant really remember) and put on the Ceramix pads and feels great.

Plus the Napa Ceramix pads give off hardly any brake dust!!! Well at least for me.

[RedMerc04]

I gotta do my brakes soon, should I just go with OEM rotors and ceramix pads or get the EBC rotors. What would be the difference in Performance? Price? Also, if my rear rotors rust on to the axles and I dont want to re-use them will i hurt the axles by beating them off?

[Blk Mamba]

Wish I still had my high school discount! I'm going to do breaks (brakes) in the spring, and was going to use the EBC green pads, but won't now, thanks for the heads up. Some say just cross drilled rotors, some say both slotted, and cross drilled, which is best, I'm really hard on brakes, and don't want to do them more often then needed.

[ctrlraven]

I bought my EBC rotors from autopartswarehouse.com. I think if I were to buy rotors again I would do stock or get some Power Slot Cyro treated slotted rotors. Because of driving my MM in the winter I run 16" steelies which won't allow me to do a big brake kit.

I would just go with the OEM rotors and get the Ceramix pads. Might be a good idea to do the KVR SS brake lines. I notice a much firmer pedal after I put mine on.

[ctrlraven]

Wish I still had my high school discount! I'm going to do breaks in the spring, and was going to use the EBC green pads, but won't now, thanks for the heads up. Some say just cross drilled rotors, some say both slotted, and cross drilled, which is best, I'm really hard on brakes, and don't want to do them more often then needed.

If you are hard on brakes I would look into some Command rotors that Wes sells. http://www.innovativeinterceptors.com/braking.html match them up with some Napa Ceramix pads and KVR SS brake lines and your going to be as good as you can get with staying stock size.

[Krytin]

When installing the rear rotors, apply a thin coat of Anti-seize or Never-seize on the face of the axle hub and the inside of the rotor where they make contact. Both surfaces should be clean and dry before application. It has always worked for me and I have never had any contamination problems.

[CRUZTAKER]

Thanks Zack.

I gotta be close at 46k.

Everytime I check however, there is boo-coo pad on both front and rear.
They still look new.

:dunno:

[Raudermaster]

I gotta do my brakes soon, should I just go with OEM rotors and ceramix pads or get the EBC rotors. What would be the difference in Performance? Price? Also, if my rear rotors rust on to the axles and I dont want to re-use them will i hurt the axles by beating them off?

No, you won't. I was the same way when I was at my friends garage and we were installing drilled/slotted rotors and new pads. We busted a 35lb sledge trying to get my rotors off and I thought I seriously damaged something. 8k later no problems.

[Brian Humphries]

Can someone explain the "J" mod to me i'm new and sounds like i need to do this asap! 95000.

[fastblackmerc]

You need to do a search.

These posts are about REAR BRAKES... not transmissions.

[Stranger in the Black Sedan]

I would look into some Command rotors that Wes sells. http://www.innovativeinterceptors.com/braking.html match them up with some Napa Ceramix pads and KVR SS brake lines and your going to be as good as you can get with staying stock size.

For the cost of the command rotors I could buy and throw away more sets of regular brake rotors than I would use on 2 or 3 cars, for the life of the cars...

[Dragcity]

The only thing that came apart on mine was the parking brake pads. Use a large gear puller and heat, they will POP off with a few lite taps from a cowhide mallet. No damage to anything. this was at 50K and 2 Buffalo winters.

Trick is to pre-load the gear puller to within an inch of its life, heat the hat, and tap, tap, tap all the way around the back side. Comes off wiht a loud pop. Apply more pressure to the gear puller until free and clear. Use old oven mitts to remove an let cool.

Or fry up some burgers on them.......

[Zack]

The only thing that came apart on mine was the parking brake pads. Use a large gear puller and heat, they will POP off with a few lite taps from a cowhide mallet. No damage to anything. this was at 50K and 2 Buffalo winters.

Trick is to pre-load the gear puller to within an inch of its life, heat the hat, and tap, tap, tap all the way around the back side. Comes off wiht a loud pop. Apply more pressure to the gear puller until free and clear. Use old oven mitts to remove an let cool.

Or fry up some burgers on them.......

What did it cost you to have the rear rotors turned?
Did you turn the emergency brake area as well?

[Dragcity]

I didn't have them resurfaced. Pads and surfaces were good. The parking brake shoes did not come apart until I removed the rotors, so that was pretty good too. I did run some 220 grit around the drum area to remove some rust.

[Zack]

I didn't have them resurfaced. Pads and surfaces were good. The parking brake shoes did not come apart until I removed the rotors, so that was pretty good too. I did run some 220 grit around the drum area to remove some rust.

Thats ghetto :shake:

Not only will the car stop better, the pads will seat better and contact more uniformly.
Dont get me wrong, Ive done the same thing on other cars ive owned, but NEVER on a car I drive daily or give 2 *****s about.

Poor MM :bigcry:

[Dragcity]

Hey, it's just to get me through this winter. In the spring it gets new rotors all around and the NAPA ceramic pads you recommend.

Had to get the rotors off to make the 4.10 install easier at the shop.

Ghetto? Shall I take that as a compliment? It is these days, isn't it?????

[Zack]

Hey, it's just to get me through this winter. In the spring it gets new rotors all around and the NAPA ceramic pads you recommend.

Had to get the rotors off to make the 4.10 install easier at the shop.

Ghetto? Shall I take that as a compliment? It is these days, isn't it?????

Ok, since you were doing it in prep for the gears (like me) its all good!

Dont take Ghetto as a compliment :burnout:

[Dragcity]

Aww, you must be getting soft....

Thanks for your approval of my temporary 'barn-job'