Drag Radials...

[2ndMDRebel]

Looking over my race tires from last season they are rather bald and should probably be replaced. Which would you recommend?

1. BF Goodrich G-Force T/A Drag Radial $173.99 ea (what it has now)

2. Mickey Thompson ET Street Radial Drag Tire $189.99 ea

3. Hoosier DOT Drag Radial $191.99 ea

4. Stay with my baldies and hope for the best $0 each

These are 275/40R17s, that tire puts me at about 6500rpm going through the traps in 3rd w/overdrive off so I'm getting all I can out of the car. The track opens Sunday and I need to choose tonight... help!!!

[OneBADLsE]

Off topic, Anyone bite when you had the crown up for sale?>

[2ndMDRebel]

Two bites, no swallows, going to hang a "for sale" sign on it and have the title in the glovebox at the track this weekend and see what happens. If it doesn't sell then thats fine, I'll just have to keep it and make it faster... eventually. Frankly I just lost interest in the car when the plans fell through to get it redone this past fall/winter.

Then again there's always arson... :flamer:

[merc]

It would help if you list the wheel size

[DEFYANT]

Tried and true Nittos get mounted to widened rims tomorrow. :D

[sailsmen]

Why limit yourself to drag radials?

The MT ET are a good drag tire and can be run on a Mustang 16".

[2ndMDRebel]

Rims are 17x9s.

[sailsmen]

55* and below and the Nitto DR become a gyro in perpetual spin.

On 2 different occaisons when the temp was 50-55* I hit it at 20mph the car went sideways and hit the rev limiter before I could let up.

Each occasion was going home from the track early having given up on trying to hook.

Thats why I switched to the MT ET.;)

[Cheeseheadbob]

Get them heated up enough and the Nittos run great. I ran a couple of my best times... 12 flat with them in temps just over 40 F. pulling all the way with no break out. It could have been the track. With that said, I just called and ordered up two of the MT Drag radials. A full review will be posted after racing with Charlie Saturday!
55* and below and the Nitto DR become a gyro in perpetual spin.

On 2 different occaisons when the temp was 50-55* I hit it at 20mph the car went sideways and hit the rev limiter before I could let up.

Each occasion was going home from the track early having given up on trying to hook.

Thats why I switched to the MT ET.;)

[Breadfan]

Grip wise I would agree the MT ET streets on some 16" rims are a good way to go.

As for drag radials, the MT DR's are very grippy and would probably be my choice of the 3 you listed although I have not had much experience with the Hoosier DR's.

[Joe Walsh]

Two bites, no swallows, going to hang a "for sale" sign on it and have the title in the glovebox at the track this weekend and see what happens. If it doesn't sell then thats fine, I'll just have to keep it and make it faster... eventually.
Frankly I just lost interest in the car when the plans fell through to get it redone this past fall/winter.



Tom, what were the plans?

[magindat]

Hoosier SLICKS pulled Tom to his record time. I cut my best on MT slicks.

Since radial is the construction, I'd check to see who's tire has the most similar if not the same compound to their slicks and decide based on that.

Some phone calls might be in order, but if I were in your place, that would be my criteria.

[sailsmen]

Get them heated up enough and the Nittos run great. I ran a couple of my best times... 12 flat with them in temps just over 40 F. pulling all the way with no break out. It could have been the track. With that said, I just called and ordered up two of the MT Drag radials. A full review will be posted after racing with Charlie Saturday!

The following pic is an example of a futile attempt at getting the Nitto DR to stick in sub 55* temps. Many would think I was in a burn out contest. My experience was based on 2 different tracks. Including one track that has a reputation as the Gorilla of hooking!

I was not the only car having trouble w/ getting Nitto DR to stick. I noticed that the MT ET's were sticking that day.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/6/7/2/SSH6.jpg

[magindat]

I was not the only car having trouble w/ getting Nitto DR to stick. I noticed that the MT ET's were sticking that day.

The MT's I was running that day stuck, but that was due to some trickery in the water box.... :rolleyes:

[merc]

This whole tire thread is kind of subjective. Slicks will always get you the best reaction time and hold power on the 60 ft. up to the 330. I personally like to radial tires for stability on the big end. I also like the luxury of not changing tires at the track. It's a pain in the butt to lug equipment around that may get stolen. Depending on the feed back from others I will take a serous look at the MT 305/45/18 tires. I will continue to roll on M/T ET Streets until they wear out.

This is hooking the pavement at SSHS6 while Nittos could not find a grip.
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/2/3/8/176c.jpg

Tom's 10-second run could have been accomplish on any of the tires you have listed. His 60ft times were not amazing and I would bet his 330 time was average in his class. I would love to see the car in lower humidly and cooler temps.

[magindat]

I personally like to radial tires for stability on the big end. I also like the luxury of not changing tires at the track. It's a pain in the butt to lug equipment around that may get stolen.

I could not agree more. I only used the MT's cuz my skinny 20's weren't gettin it SC they way they did NA and John Nero twisted my arm since his tranny was mush.

I did not like the floaty floaties at the big end at 109 MPH!!!!!!

10" wide 20's should be here soon and 295\45\20 KDWNT are waiting at the tire shop! :burnout:

[Breadfan]

16" drag radials that are 28" high would be nice too...that'd give you:

- radial construction which some may prefer on top end
- lots of sidewall for some flex and maybe a bit more grip
- grippy compound compared to street tires

And...they may be OK for driving to and from the track.

Still I bet a 16" wheel diameter 28" tall drag radial would be pretty squishy especially with the heavy Marauder, that may be unsafe for on road driving...

Still unless anyone has new offerings this year no 16" 28" tall DR's are out there.

[MarauderTJA]

16" drag radials that are 28" high would be nice too...that'd give you:

- radial construction which some may prefer on top end
- lots of sidewall for some flex and maybe a bit more grip
- grippy compound compared to street tires

And...they may be OK for driving to and from the track.

Still I bet a 16" wheel diameter 28" tall drag radial would be pretty squishy especially with the heavy Marauder, that may be unsafe for on road driving...

Still unless anyone has new offerings this year no 16" 28" tall DR's are out there.

I drove my car to the track once with my M/T ET Streets mounted on 16 X 9 rims. Brought the pressure up to 26 lbs. 90 miles up and back. 70 MPH was about tops for speed on the highway though. Was an interesting ride. :rolleyes:

[Breadfan]

I drove my car to the track once with my M/T ET Streets mounted on 16 X 9 rims. Brought the pressure up to 26 lbs. 90 miles up and back. 70 MPH was about tops for speed on the highway though. Was an interesting ride. :rolleyes:

With the bias ply ET Streets I bet! Well...I suppose drag radials would then be a slightly less interesting ride thanks to the radial construction on the street. :D

[sailsmen]

Both Merc's pic and mine were taken w/ in an hour of each other.

The way I look at it is any street drag radial tire is going to be a compromised road tire. As in it's not going to handle as well as a KDW2 on the street or on the track grip as well as a slick.

Both your street and track time are compromised to save 1.5 hours changing when you go to the track.

I use an aluminum jack and bicycle cable lock. If they are strong enough to lug off two tires and jack in one pile I ain't going to stop them. I use the Tire Rack wheel covers to make handling easy and clean, stacking them in the trunk.

The hardest part is not gettin aggrevated at all the people who stop by to chat about that Marauder that beat the Viper, GT3, Corvette or '69 Charger with the 6-71 while you are doing the changing.:)

[Breadfan]

That being said I will say when I changed my tires on a hot summer day at the track, 95+ with high humidity, lots of sun on dark pavement - well, that day I was thinking "dang this sucks." I think it was worse at the end of the day when I wanted to switch back to go home but was tired from a hot day at the track...

[MarauderTJA]

Both Merc's pic and mine were taken w/ in an hour of each other.

The way I look at it is any street drag radial tire is going to be a compromised road tire. As in it's not going to handle as well as a KDW2 on the street or on the track grip as well as a slick.

Both your street and track time are compromised to save 1.5 hours changing when you go to the track.

I use an aluminum jack and bicycle cable lock. If they are strong enough to lug off two tires and jack in one pile I ain't going to stop them. I use the Tire Rack wheel covers to make handling easy and clean, stacking them in the trunk.

The hardest part is not gettin aggrevated at all the people who stop by to chat about that Marauder that beat the Viper, GT3, Corvette or '69 Charger with the 6-71 while you are doing the changing.:)

That is funny there. But absolutely the truth.............

[magindat]

That being said I will say when I changed my tires on a hot summer day at the track, 95+ with high humidity, lots of sun on dark pavement - well, that day I was thinking "dang this sucks." I think it was worse at the end of the day when I wanted to switch back to go home but was tired from a hot day at the track...

Yeah, that's me right there.

It really all just boils down to how many tenths you are willing to leave behind to avoid changing tires. Me, I race cuz it's fun. Changing tires = not fun.

If 12.6 on those slicks stays my best time ever, I'm OK with that. If I do better without having to change tires, so much the better. If I stay consistent 12.7's or 12.8's, so what. Still ain't no street ricer, stock SRT, or mildly modified 'vette gonna catch me.

Maybe one day at some big event I borrow some tires again and do better, OK - but that's an event, not every Friday night at the track!

[sailsmen]

For a Daily Driver S/C do you put on DR which are marginal street tires for 99.99% of the time behind the wheel to get mideocre performance for .01% at the track?

99.99% + .01% = 100% Crap.:puke:

[2ndMDRebel]

Well, I'm going with the Mickey Thompsons but they're on backorder so looks like it will be another week or two. Once the new ones get here I'm going to find a nice secluded spot and give the current tires a proper death-by-burnout... with video. One day I would like to borrow them and make a run or two with the 16" rim and 28" tire combo to see if there is much of a difference over my current 17" rim and 26" tire setup.

[magindat]

For a Daily Driver S/C do you put on DR which are marginal street tires for 99.99% of the time behind the wheel to get mideocre performance for .01% at the track?

99.99% + .01% = 100% Crap.:puke:

That's just it, Billy. I don't use drag radials. I will be using real Z rated street tires. I agree with your drag radial assessment.

:beer:

Stop barfing in my beer!!! ;)

[MarauderTJA]

Well, I'm going with the Mickey Thompsons but they're on backorder so looks like it will be another week or two. Once the new ones get here I'm going to find a nice secluded spot and give the current tires a proper death-by-burnout... with video. One day I would like to borrow them and make a run or two with the 16" rim and 28" tire combo to see if there is much of a difference over my current 17" rim and 26" tire setup.

My next tires for the street when my Nitto's wear out will be the M/T street drag radials. Several of my friends at our race shop use them and say they hook better than the ET Streets Drag tires. They swear by them. They do wear out quickly though if you race them a lot.