Wheel Vibration Over 65 MPH

[04MRADR]

:cool: Just got new Good Year Eagle F1 tires and wow what an improvement over the BF Goodrich! Super quiet. Had a wheel shimmy at 5 MPH or higher and it turned out the right front hub had to be replaced. The Marauder runs so smooth words can't describe and incredibly quiet with the new Eagles. I was wonder what the club members might think is my new problem. When I hit 65 and higher there is a slight shimmy or vibration in the steering wheel. The Marauder has 82 K so is it possibly the front shocks? Were the wheels not balanced right? I notice if I'm doing 65 or higher and going thru a sweeping right or left turn on the highway its not as noticeable. Is it the new tires need breaking in? Seems to have gotten a little better since the tires were installed about one thousand miles ago. Any thoughts on what the problem might be?

[Bluerauder]

Any thoughts on what the problem might be?
Get a Road Force balance done right.

[red]

Get a Road Force balance done right.
Agreed. Get the front tires road forced.

[04MRADR]

Okay. I'm an idiot. What is a Road Force Balance versus the normal balance you get at tire centers?

[Bluerauder]

Okay. I'm an idiot. What is a Road Force Balance versus the normal balance you get at tire centers?

Post #1 and #15 in this thread will answer your questions on Road Force ..... >>>> http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=41089&highlight=road+force+balance

[CRUZTAKER]

Definately Roadforce to rule out potential issues withIN the new tires.

Call around your area and ask until you find one.;)

[Mongoose]

Get a Road Force balance done right.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe "load force" is the correct term, Road Force is Hunter's terminology.

[ryanstickney1]

After the Road Force Balance, if it isn't smooth, try cleaning the mating surface of the wheel and hub / rotor. Then re-install the lugs with fingers (NOT An Air gun). Have someone apply brakes and torque the lugs to 100# in a star pattern. I have had to do this almost every time I have tire service or rotate on more than a few cars. :shake:

[DOOM]

Was your car doing this with the old tires?

[Local Boy]

It's NOT your shocks!

Vibrations are caused by something spinning (wheel/tire/drive shaft)...

I agree with having your tires roadforce balanced...it is always a good idea...

Since you metioned that it is less noticeable during sweeping turns, I would lean toward it being an alignment issue...or excessive play in your ball joints...

Good luck...

ALOHA

[Bluerauder]

It's NOT your shocks!

Vibrations are caused by something spinning (wheel/tire/drive shaft)...

I agree with having your tires roadforce balanced...it is always a good idea...

Since you metioned that it is less noticeable during sweeping turns, I would lean toward it being an alignment issue...or excessive play in your ball joints...

Good luck...

ALOHA
And if alignment is the issue, then you need to check out "Carfixer's Alignment" specs \/\/\/\/\/\/.


Courtesy of Carfixer

The inside edge wear of the front tires is caused by 2 things: negative camber and negative toe (toe out). Caster is not a tire wearing angle. The outside edge wear can be caused by excessive toe in and aggressive cornering.

Factory camber spec is -.5 degrees or- .75 degrees
Factory toe spec is -.15 degrees or- .20 degrees
(BTW, this info came from their website which is updated periodically and may differ from previously published material, such as cd's and paper manuals)

That means your alignment could have -1.25 degrees of camber and toe out of -.35 degrees and still be in the "green". This will wipe out the inside edges in <20K miles IMO.

All of the MM's I've aligned (about 10) had at least -1.0 degrees of camber and always toe out of -.10 degrees or more from the factory. That's why almost all MM's you see have excessive inside edge tire wear.

For best tire wear, here is what I use on all MM alignments:
Camber: 0 to -.3 degrees.*
Toe: Zero degrees.
Caster: 5-6.5 degrees positive with .3 degree lead on the right side.

*Camber can affect cornering feel. The more negative camber you have, the better it will handle corners. Most drivers will never feel the difference, especially on the street.

[CRUZTAKER]

After the Road Force Balance, if it isn't smooth, try cleaning the mating surface of the wheel and hub / rotor. Then re-install the lugs with fingers (NOT An Air gun). Have someone apply brakes and torque the lugs to 100# in a star pattern. I have had to do this almost every time I have tire service or rotate on more than a few cars. :shake:

Good advice as well.

Our Aviator had wheel shimmy at 65 and it turned out to be the mating surface of the aftermarket 20's and hubs. Roadforce showed wheels were true, and tire were within limit.


IN MY OPINION (AND MANY OTHER'S), IF YOU NEED MORE THAN 2 TO 2-1/2 OZ OF WEIGHT TO BALANCE A WHEEL...SOMETHING'S WRONG.

[MENINBLK]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe "load force" is the correct term, Road Force is Hunter's terminology.

The correct terminology IS "Road Force Balancing".

[04MRADR]

:cool:I can't believe how many of you got back to me on this. You guys are great! So Road Force Balance it is! Thanks again everybody!

[Marauderjack]

If road force doesn't help you may want to check toe out.....too much will give you excessive "Bump Steer" and will feel like phantom vibrations at harmonic tread speed.....USUALLY THE EXACT SPEED YOU WISH TO DRIVE!!!!:argue::mad2:

I reduced my toe out to about zero......the vibs went away AND the inner tread wear is much improved!!!:beer:

Good Luck!!

Marauderjack:burnout: