Still not right

[Blk Mamba]

OK I've taken the battery out for ten minutes, had it recharged, hooked it back up, and still every time I start it the battery light goes out for 20-30 seconds, and then comes back on. The alt. is putting out over 105 amps at idle, 13.5 volts, and the battery has 13.4 volts, 85% of the alt's. output is going to the battery. The wiring is all good, no corrosion, no breaks. I've had all this checked. I'm pulling my hair out! Help, Please.

[captain]

try swapping out a battery from another vehicle. Let us know what happens.

[Blk Mamba]

Already did, same thing. Thanks, I'm at wits end, and now My favorite car of all time is a true POS in My wifes eyes.

[Spectragod]

The charging circuit is controlled by the PCM, without further diagnostics, it's hard to say what the issue could be, cluster, PCM etc.. Need more info.

SG

[baltimoremm]

does the battery light stay on all the time, or only at idle?

you could always just take the bulb out of the battery light indicator.

[MM_BKK]

What accessories do you have on at idle for the alt. to put out 105 amps? That is way too much for it to put out at idle unless you have everything on and the battery is less than 30% charge. The alt. will only put out enough current that's needed. If the car only need 25 amps, the alt. will put out just that. It won't put out 100 amps if you only need 25.
When you had the battery on an external charger, how much current was it drawing to charge it?
Also, what kind of voltmeter are you using to check the voltage. Hopefully not the factory analog guage.

[Blk Mamba]

All the time. A long time ago I drove delivery truck for a small company part time, and got in a truck one night, and the radio was so loud that I jumped right out. I went to the other driver and asked him why was the radio so loud, he said to cover up that annoying bell. ( the low coolant warning ) There was no water in the truck. No thanks to taking out the bulb.

[Tony Rouviere]

alt. has diode for lite, Diode probably bad.

[Blk Mamba]

What accessories do you have on at idle for the alt. to put out 105 amps? That is way too much for it to put out at idle unless you have everything on and the battery is less than 30% charge. The alt. will only put out enough current that's needed. If the car only need 25 amps, the alt. will put out just that. It won't put out 100 amps if you only need 25.
When you had the battery on an external charger, how much current was it drawing to charge it?
Also, what kind of voltmeter are you using to check the voltage. Hopefully not the factory analog guage.

The tester did a draw test, and that was how the amperage was determined, at 2000 RPM. Normally the radio, blower motor on low. It is a new battery now, but I don't know what it took to recharge the old one. I have a small hand held digital meter, and it was as accurate as the one on the tester.

[FordNut]

Wrong alternator. Actually it's the wrong regulator, which is built-in to the alternator. Been there, done that. Gotta get a high-output alternator with the Marauder-specific regulator, which is PCM controlled. '96 Cobra alternator will fit and will charge, but the PCM can't control it properly so it turns on the warning light.

[LilCop2002]

Wrong alternator. Actually it's the wrong regulator, which is built-in to the alternator. Been there, done that. Gotta get a high-output alternator with the Marauder-specific regulator, which is PCM controlled. '96 Cobra alternator will fit and will charge, but the PCM can't control it properly so it turns on the warning light.



You're spot on with that. I purchased one for my 300A from Advance and had them test it before i put it on. Luckily, I caught the light on before I left and had them try another. Same story. I just took it out and reinstalled my old one and no more problems.

[Spectragod]

I figured the 105 amps was under load, if that is @ idle with the blower motor on and a couple of other accessories on.............. you have an alternator issue, assuming that you already veified that you don't have a shorted batery cell.

SG

[Stranger in the Black Sedan]

you could always just take the bulb out of the battery light indicator.

Painting over check engine lights w/ black paint is for the taxi cab panthers only, not for MM's!!

[Blk Mamba]

You're spot on with that. I purchased one for my 300A from Advance and had them test it before i put it on. Luckily, I caught the light on before I left and had them try another. Same story. I just took it out and reinstalled my old one and no more problems.

Took what out? And reinstalled What? My old Alt. was bad. I ordered this (new, rebuilt) alt. from Advance Auto, and had it shipped from Glendale, Arizona, it's been 3 weeks. They already knew this was wrong, and sold it to me anyway? Did this damage my MM? I can't believe this. Just my luck.

[FordNut]

So I guess you turned the old one in for the core charge already? If not, look at the regulator connector. Same color and number of pins?

[Blk Mamba]

No core charge on this model, I was going to rebuild it , polish the cases, and have it anodized red. Yes the plug plugged right in the funny thing is that the light goes out for about 20-30 seconds, and then comes on. The volt meter in the car shows only 12 volts till the engine RPM goes over 2500, then goes to 13.8, and stays steady till you shut it off, and start it again, then it's the same thing over again. Everybody I talk to, or show it to is still scratching their heads.

[FordNut]

Like I said, been there, done that. Wrong alternator/regulator. You may be able to take the regulator off the old alternator and put it on the new one, not sure.

Is the COLOR of the connectors the same?

[Blk Mamba]

Yes they are both white, I've removed the small (2"X2 1/2") white plastic piece with the brushes coming out the bottom. Thats the regulator? How do I know this ones good? I have to work tomorrow morn. so I won't get to it till the afternoon. I'll report findings then. When I talked to the tech at Advance he called Autolite, and inquired about this, and sent me three tests, and the wiring schematic. Thanks for your time and trouble.

[Spectragod]

Do you by chance, have under drive pulley's installed?

SG

[FordNut]

Yes they are both white, I've removed the small (2"X2 1/2") white plastic piece with the brushes coming out the bottom. Thats the regulator? How do I know this ones good? I have to work tomorrow morn. so I won't get to it till the afternoon. I'll report findings then. When I talked to the tech at Advance he called Autolite, and inquired about this, and sent me three tests, and the wiring schematic. Thanks for your time and trouble.


Sounds like they may have made some changes, used to be the regulators were made with different color plastic on the connectors depending on application. The regulator is the assembly with the connector we're talking about. I've never actually removed one, I just made sure I got the right replacement alternator. Took 3 tries to get through to the parts guy. I'm not sure what is attached to it once it is removed. The symptoms you describe are precisely what I experienced when I tried the wrong one.

[Blk Mamba]

Well I changed the small white connector with the brushes, and it would not charge at all, so now I know what was wrong with the other Alt., I changed it back, and have the same condition. Fortunately I found a rebuilder just a mile from my house, I'll stop there Mon. after work, and then be done with this I hope. Thanks Again, and I'll continue to report my findings, in the case that someone else, has this same problem, in the future, and this can be refered to.

[cyclopsram]

My 99 CVPI has the same issue from time to time for the last 50000 miles, it eventually goes out and in a few weeks may come back again... I plugged a good voltmeter into the cig lighter and it showed no problem...14.4 volts after start, 13 plus after recovery and 12 plus key on no run.... FoMoCo engineering.

[justbob]

Every once in awile (once every two months)my regulator goes on the blink and either discharges or over charges and about a minute later it fixes itself. To claim something under warranty it obviously has to be broke. Anyways there seems to be a problem with some of our regulators and not always the hole alternator, hope this helps save some cost for someone out there.

[max454]

Well, i just joined the club, had to buy a napa alt, they sold me one listed for a mach1 since the one listed for the marauder is wrong as everybody knows. The voltage is fine and it seems okay except for that dam batt light.
Checked with ford and they have to order it none at the depot, at least 2 weeks wait...

Wonder if the aviator alt as the same reg as ours ?

[Blk Mamba]

Had my old Alt rebuilt locally, and added a new battery, still has battery light on, now I'm pi$$ed. I'm going to the stealership to see what their determination is. Puts out 13.54 volts, but you have to rev the engine up past 2500 rpm before it charges over 12 volts. This is driving me nuts.

[Blk Mamba]

Well I went to the stealership to find out some information. The service advisor told me that the charging system inspection was $89, and would have to be done so they could evaluate the problem, (by the way what kind of car is that anyway), Ford dealership? Then if needed they might be able to reflash the ECM/PCM, if Ford would send them the program, for $95. Now I'm steamed, and told him I couldn't spend that much without talking to my wife, and left. I then went to the local automotive rebuilder that made my Alt., to talk to him, he checked out everything, then went into the shop, and got out a ford pcm controled regulator bullitin, that explained that if these conditions exist, and the warning light is still on , then the ECM needs to be reprogramed, (reflashed). So all I need is someone who can reprogram my ECM. I think that with all the MM going over 60,000 mi., that a lot will be doing the same thing when their alt. goes also. Keep this in mind. My spelling sucks!

[Blk Mamba]

Well I've just returned from the dealership, the tech. repaired a wire in front of the radiator, and now everything is great. $155.35, and no parts, he even took an old wiring harness, cut the shielding out of it, and used it in my MM, to protect it in the future.