Electrical anomaly...RoadPig #1...

[Marauder386]

Drove to werk today and all was good...after shift...

Air Suspension light "ON" but switch in trunk in on position ( I turned it OFF )

Compass not operating/displaying

Foglights not operating

HVAC not displaying or operating

External temperature not displaying


Presently, I have come home with no other problems...the battery has been disconnected and will connect it shortly to see if this resets all...thoughts and ideas accepted...


:cool:

[larryo340]

Low voltage problem ??

[RoyLPita]

Ignition switch?

[captain]

check fuses first. easy enough. any reason to think something got damaged. ie changes to stereo or mechanics under the hood. Did you jack it up ?
try unhooking the neg. battery terminal...wait 5 minutes and hook it up again. tell us what you know or did.

[Marauder386]

OKAY...

All the fuses tested good...the reset trick of removing negative connection @ battery produced nothing...same problems. I have not jacked the car up nor changed or added anything to it ... I will be checking relays tomorrow...

THanks so far for the feeed-bach !


:cool:

[captain]

it keeps coming up as a fuse, wire, or ground. From the central junction box.
The box is right above your ebrake pedal. All the (many) of the items you list are running to the cjb.

[Marauder386]

All the relays are good...tried the battery reset trick again...no results...

Went from port to starboard, fore and aft checking all visible connections and they are good too...


Help !!


:cool:

[captain]

We need a reading.
If you know someone who can read DTC codes...
Know anyone with an xcal? that might help.

[RoyLPita]

Let me know what codes come up. I have a list with my 1725 and at work, too.

[Marauder386]

I plugged in my XCal II and only got the P1000 code...and I discovered that the Variable Assist Power Steering is out of commission too !!!


:cool:

[Blk Mamba]

A few weeks ago when my battery went dead on my way to work, things started to shut down, to preserve the vehicle, to include all you have mentioned, plus air bag, anti-lock brake, radio, Etc., not in that order. So assuming that this is true of your's also I would suspect low voltage, as previously reported. Have you checked battery voltage, and connections? Sorry if I'm asking redundant questions, but you have to start somewhere.

[GordonB]

marauder386,
By any chance have you NOT done the wiring harness Protection self-install where the wiring harness crosses near the protrusion from the firewall on the center left side (driver's) under the hood? The wire chafing thing was a big deal several years ago, but most of us corrected the problem with rubber hose, etc.
GordonB

[Marauder386]

trash...battery voltage right now is 13.96...put it on the charger anyway to be safe...

GordonB...checked that hot spot you referenced and at some point I did do that DIY protective install. I did do a recheck and visual from the firewall to the multi-pin plugs mounted under the Master cylinder....


:cool:

[Marauder386]

RAn RoadPig around to AutoZoo, AdvanceAuto and PartsAmerica and plugged her into their OBD II readers...all said the same...NO CODES !

:confused::confused::confused:



:cool4:

[magindat]

Fuse 21, as I recall. Same symptoms. Crappy labeling in Owner's manual. Inside fuse panel under steering column.

I know, I know, you tested. Mine tested fine on the multimeter touch test. Pulled it and it was blown.

[Ozz]

Marauder386,
What ended up solving this problem? I have the same problem right now and I'm hoping to fix it myself.

THANKS!

[magindat]

Marauder386,
What ended up solving this problem? I have the same problem right now and I'm hoping to fix it myself.

THANKS!

One can only assume the last post if the complaints stopped.... :D

[Ozz]

One can only assume the last post if the complaints stopped.... :D

That's what I'm afraid of - all my fuses are fine (metered and visual inspection) and I still have the problem. :confused:

[Marauder386]

Well, its not the LCM ... nor an of the fuses or relays ... this is been an ongoing problem that I cannot diagnose ... I REALLY don't want to go to the dealers and blow 85 to 100 dollar on a diagnostic ...


:cool4:

[RoyLPita]

I'll put my Monopoly money on the ignition switch.

[Ozz]

My propblem turned out to be a damaged wire harness in the left fender. It was either damaged during my accident last January and not caught by the repair shop or they reinstalled it improperly and it frayed.
My insurance company (Liberty Mutual) covered the repair.

[Marauder386]

Hmmmm...ignition switch...okay wil check that beast somehow. Wiring harness IN left fender... okay ... will check there too ...

The "doesnt work" list , once again :

compressor for ride/height control
foglights
HVAC
compass
lighter @ gauge pod
variable assist steering


I also am creating a cooling system for the LCM which I will pic and post later on...IMHO, its in a spot that seems to be warmer than usual no matter what time of year...


:cool4:

[Richy04]

You said the air ride isnt working, I would pull the compressor and bench test it. If its seized, I am sure it will blow fuses especially if its on that line. Its a common problem as it lays in water for all of its short natural life. If that the problem, let me know and I will prep the one I have here and swap it with you. Just send me your old one.

Richy

[Master]

I had a very similar problem on the dually (less the air ride, of course). I hauled the fuse for the instruments and when I put it back in, even with the key off, there was a flash. However, the fuse didn't blow, and when I turned the key on everythig worked fine. I have an OK understanding of electronics, but that one leaves me a bit stymied.

[Richy04]

Certain circuits have power even with the key off. If the fuse sparked when you put it back in, it has something live all of the time that it is protecting. Looking at the list of items it protects, you will see something thats powered all of the time. Thats why it sparked. Ford and GM use modules which connect grounds to operate some accessories.

A friend of mine at work in fleet couldnt understand why items have power but didnt work. I told him to take the meter and attach it so that he was using the ground from the circuit he was testing. Since the particular circuit he was diagnosing had modules that shift the ground on and off for things to work.

PCM or Pulsing an item on and off is easier to do that using relays and such and the computer will vary voltage to certain items by doing this. Its like taking a wire to your fan and lifting it from ground at a particular rate, what will result is the fan will slow down. by increasing the "off" gap between lifting the ground, the fan will slow down even further. Think of it as pulsating dc being used to control motors because thats how the motor interprets it.

PCM appears as a square wave on a scope It has sharp rise and fall times from its rest state of 0 to 12volts or whatever voltage a circuit uses. It eliminates the need for resistance devices like in the old fan relay (aka high blower relay and associated resistance packs) switches of yesteryear.

This is all done with solid state devices which sink to ground. The relays that are used usually control on and off features that use low current triggering circuits to activate high current devices. Like in the Lighting control module.

This concept is a cost cutting measure and in theory simplifies the diagnosis when using proprietary instruments, the tool auto makers and mechanics use will usually interface some way with some of the modules and can read the states from one point. By centralizing everything, its cheaper for them to diagnose, in theory.

Most of the time, the mechanic fails to understand whats going on and what common failures happen to a particular vehicle and misdiagnoses the problem making you throw money at it. Thats the caveat to this method.

We all know here that LCM's fail, EATC's fail, compressors,radios etc.. Most mechanics dont know what a Marauder is let alone its particular faults.

[Marauder386]

You said the air ride isnt working, I would pull the compressor and bench test it. If its seized, I am sure it will blow fuses especially if its on that line. Its a common problem as it lays in water for all of its short natural life. If that the problem, let me know and I will prep the one I have here and swap it with you. Just send me your old one.

Richy


I may take you up on this, Richy. I just have to disassemble the DR installed Air to Water intercooler system as the icebox is below it in front of F L tire and the " juice box " is where the airbox was located.


:cool4: