View Full Version : Master Cylinder Leaking
BigCars4Ever
04-07-2008, 09:26 AM
Noticed that the master cylinder was leaking. 60k on the car currently. Any suggestions on best place to get a replacement. Something in between dealer and auto zone? Will install myself.
RoyLPita
04-07-2008, 10:12 AM
It could not hurt to see what the dealer will charge.
Blackened300a
04-07-2008, 10:15 AM
Funny this thread popped up. I had a brake flush done this weekend with new brakes installed and something still dont seem right. I have about a 1/4 free play before I start feeling pressure. I think I may need a master as well.
LeoVampire
04-07-2008, 10:59 AM
Noticed that the master cylinder was leaking. 60k on the car currently. Any suggestions on best place to get a replacement. Something in between dealer and auto zone? Will install myself.
Bench bleed the new one before you put it in to make sure there is little to no air added to the systemto make it easier then leave the bleeder screws open on the calipers after install and flush out all the old fluid in the car to remove all moister build up in the fluid.
Break fluid does build up moister and most break lines rot from the inside out due to this. So any time the system gets something replaced it is best to flush it all out.
Fuel systems and Break systems are basicly the only things that do build up moister.
arejayesss
04-07-2008, 11:03 AM
Bench bleed the new one before you put it in to make sure there is little to no air added to the systemto make it easier then leave the bleeder screws open on the calipers after install and flush out all the old fluid in the car to remove all moister build up in the fluid.
Break fluid does build up moister and most break lines rot from the inside out due to this. So any time the system gets something replaced it is best to flush it all out.
Fuel systems and Break systems are basicly the only things that do build up moister.
Sorry, I can usually restrain myself from pointing out typos, but its Moisture.
Don't hate me because I'm weird:o
LeoVampire
04-07-2008, 11:06 AM
Sorry, I can usually restrain myself from pointing out typos, but its Moisture.
Don't hate me because I'm weird:o
Brain tends to think slower about the details.
arejayesss
04-07-2008, 11:10 AM
Brain tends to think slower about the details.
Sorry, like I said I'm weird like that. There are grammatical and spelling atrocities much worse every day on this forum and others. No offense was intended and hopefully none taken:o
LeoVampire
04-07-2008, 11:14 AM
Sorry, like I said I'm weird like that. There are grammatical and spelling atrocities much worse every day on this forum and others. No offense was intended and hopefully none taken:o
As long as I do not lose my Knowledge of Car and PC repairs I can handle the rest.
I can't work for a living anymore but love helping and doing for freinds and neighbors.
BigCars4Ever
04-07-2008, 12:40 PM
Bench bleed the new one before you put it in to make sure there is little to no air added to the systemto make it easier then leave the bleeder screws open on the calipers after install and flush out all the old fluid in the car to remove all moister build up in the fluid.
Break fluid does build up moister and most break lines rot from the inside out due to this. So any time the system gets something replaced it is best to flush it all out.
Fuel systems and Break systems are basicly the only things that do build up moister.
No worries, not my first master cylinder replacement. Have a vaccum bleeder that makes it a one man job. Just wasn't happy with the quality of the rebuilt Autozone part. But it was for a 92 Vic and it's all the car deserved.
BigCars4Ever
04-07-2008, 01:06 PM
The local dealer wants $214 for a new Ford unit and Napa wants $137 for a new United unit. Is the Ford marking worth $77??
MM2004
04-07-2008, 01:08 PM
The local dealer wants $214 for a new Ford unit and Napa wants $137 for a new United unit. Is the Ford marking worth $77??
Tell them you're a Ford Employee or for a family member. Usually they do not check, and should be good for 10 - 15% off.
NAPA should have a lifetime guarantee?
Roll with them if the case.
Damn, what happened to the days of buying these for ~35.00?
:depress:
Mike.
Breadfan
04-07-2008, 01:25 PM
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1387829,parttype,183 6
interestingly, the "Dorman" brand remans have two different Part #'s, one for W/ Traction Control, one WO/ Traction Control.
I didn't realize traction control would make a difference...
Breadfan
04-07-2008, 01:34 PM
Bench bleed the new one before you put it in to make sure there is little to no air added to the systemto make it easier then leave the bleeder screws open on the calipers after install and flush out all the old fluid in the car to remove all moister build up in the fluid.
Break fluid does build up moister and most break lines rot from the inside out due to this. So any time the system gets something replaced it is best to flush it all out.
Fuel systems and Break systems are basicly the only things that do build up moister.
So you can flush out by leaving all four bleeders open? Wouldn't this suck air back into the system (through the open bleeders), wouldn't you want to close the bleeder each time the brake pedal is to the floor?
Blackmobile
04-07-2008, 01:39 PM
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1387829,parttype,183 6
interestingly, the "Dorman" brand remans have two different Part #'s, one for W/ Traction Control, one WO/ Traction Control.
I didn't realize traction control would make a difference...
That's probably because our cars have 2 different MC as I found out via carfixer in doing a linelock install. The outputs are reversed on some models.
You guys know more about this then I, but: I read somewhere that when dealing with a leaking master cylinder you need to look closely at the vacuum booster as well. The leaking fluid will damage the vacuum seal on the booster and lead to repeat failures. Is this accurate?
BigCars4Ever
04-08-2008, 04:48 AM
I'm going to order the NAPA unit today. Since it's for an 04 I hope there is only one part number. I may have a little fun and polish it before I install it for a custom look.
eric jones
04-08-2008, 05:29 AM
I had the same problem and it was the master cylinder. It leaked and it made the booster go bad. Had to replace both. Thought I could save some $$ and bought the NAPA master cylinder. Lines did not match up (different OD) mechanic said he could put some type of coupling but said leaks could be a possibility. They had to order the part which took a day and I ended up having to return it and go to the dealer. Actual part was only a few dollars more. IMHO do the dealer part and avoid the hassle!
BigCars4Ever
04-12-2008, 05:29 PM
I had the same problem and it was the master cylinder. It leaked and it made the booster go bad. Had to replace both. Thought I could save some $$ and bought the NAPA master cylinder. Lines did not match up (different OD) mechanic said he could put some type of coupling but said leaks could be a possibility. They had to order the part which took a day and I ended up having to return it and go to the dealer. Actual part was only a few dollars more. IMHO do the dealer part and avoid the hassle!
Eric is in fact correct. Got the Napa Universal part and the ports were backwards. Went to Ford and got the correct one. The Marauder part actually shows up as its own part number. 6W1Z-2140-AA. $215.
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