New SuperCharger Setup for My Rauder (Battery Relocated)

[Loco1234]

Hi I have attached a Sketch I made and plan to implement between now and Carisle.
Im simple waiting on the remaining piping and parts for Dennis.
This is what Im looking at doing...
Please see the attached *.PDF
I try and make it a BMP or something if thats easier for everyone....

[Zack]

So what did you change?
Looks about the same as Dennis ships it with the exception of the Bypass.

[arejayesss]

OWwwww.. I hurt my neck!!!

[Loco1234]

Well I wish it was as easy to get get this setup as Dennis's stock piping setup but I having been waiting quite some time for it to be fab'd...
I hope to have everything in time to install it and attend Carisle with the Vehiclce.

Changes:
1. Battery relocated to the truck so a custom fab'd battery filter box that has provisions to bring 00 gauge wire (+&-) up from the trunk to the insulated mounting posts on the box. It will have act as if it were accutly the battery posts and have all the connections for the car connected there aswell as a second post pysically connected that will be capped and used in case of jumping the car.

2. The Boost bypass has been relocated to after the intercooler so the bypass air will not be continually reheated without any cooling affect of the intercooler to aid it.

3. The boost bypass will be connected directly to the bottom of the new METAL supercharger inlet elbow. This should be the optimized location for this connection for a mechanincal engineering point of view.

4. All the connection(s) for on the intake piping will be pre-fab'd welded bung(s).

5. The PCV system has been changed top MM.net suggestions including the use of a EV153 PCV valve.

[FordNut]

Couple of comments...

If you connect the bypass to the inlet pipe as shown, it needs to be angled toward the blower inlet (away from the MAF) to prevent noisy MAF signals due to backwash.

If you switch to a blow-thru MAF ('05 style) you don't need to worry about backwash and you can fit a bigger air filter (more airflow) in the space. I believe the '05 MAF has IAT incorporated so it would fit in the spot you have allocated for the IAT.

My air-air setup had two bypass valves, one before and one after the intercooler. When I used both, the IAT was higher. When I used the one after the intercooler, the IAT was higher. When I used the one prior to the intercooler, the IAT was lower. I don't know why, and the air-water system may be different.

[Loco1234]

ya I planned for the bypass to be right on the bottom of the metal supercharger inlet so there can be no MAF goof up's.... but no matter what position the throotle is at air will always be moving into the engine when it is running.

ya I plan to use the K&N extreme filter that has the inverted cone insdie it so there is more suface area for air to pass.... Plus with the filter box located right behend the pass side headlight I can always remove that headlight at the track for even better cooler air...

as far as the increase in temps you saw in your testing of pre and post intercooler bypass:
I find that very interesting... i always figured the water intercooler could eventually become heat soaked and loose some ability to work but figured it would be much better in most instances then just bypass and constantly heating the ir prior to entering the engine...

[Zack]

If you are really looking to make power and get everything right, I strongly recommend relocating the intercooler reservoir to the trunk or the engine bay.
Where its at now, behind the drivers side foglight, is not good.
The pump is not below the tank and I firmly believe it starves itself during WOT runs, cause the momentum of the car is pushing all the coolant to the back of the tank, and the outlet fittings are in the front.
It was a poor design from the get go (despite me running 11.6 with this setup) and should be changed.

[sailsmen]

I am curious are there any IAT data to support moving the reservoir tank?

[Zack]

I am curious are there any IAT data to support moving the reservoir tank?

I only started the record IAT's with the Kenne Bell.
At WOT, the temps soared to 200+, when 125-150 is the norm.

[MarauderBoy]

And it's a pain in the azz to check the level too. Battery tray area seems like a better spot. BTW, didn't you have the outside air sensor relo'd when you had this setup?


If you are really looking to make power and get everything right, I strongly recommend relocating the intercooler reservoir to the trunk or the engine bay.
Where its at now, behind the drivers side foglight, is not good.
The pump is not below the tank and I firmly believe it starves itself during WOT runs, cause the momentum of the car is pushing all the coolant to the back of the tank, and the outlet fittings are in the front.
It was a poor design from the get go (despite me running 11.6 with this setup) and should be changed.

[Zack]

And it's a pain in the azz to check the level too. Battery tray area seems like a better spot. BTW, didn't you have the outside air sensor relo'd when you had this setup?

Yes I did, but it took readings every 20-30 seconds, not the every 2 milliseconds the Scangauge reports.

[Loco1234]

Hmm i ussuallu keep a good amonut of water + water wetter (Purple Ice) in my intercooler res....
I will fill it to the tippy top (hard to do) then have a friend turn key to enable intercooler pump... it will suck water into the piping of the system and the level will go down... I simply add more water so I can necer have my hoses run dry...
IMPORTANT: remember expansion... always keep a small air gap in the res tank so there in room for expansion...

I am however looking at upgrade both my intercooler and the associated radiator(heat exchanger) to a larger version more closely suited to the HP & TQ #'s we are looking at...

We have however changed out to the Lightining water pump.
This includes a relocate for it for both ease of install etc... and so the pump would no longer be located in the lower then res inlet/outlet hight. this should aid keeping the inlet/outlet lines from running dry aswell.

[rvaldez1]

man, you must love autocad

[Zack]

We have however changed out to the Lightining water pump.
This includes a relocate for it for both ease of install etc... and so the pump would no longer be located in the lower then res inlet/outlet hight. this should aid keeping the inlet/outlet lines from running dry aswell.

The pump has to be lower that the reservoir, thats why the original design is not a good one.
Unless you are mounting it the bottom side of the bumper, it will not be lower than the outlet of the reservoir.

[Loco1234]

man, you must love autocad

LOL Ya I do... I've used it everday.... since I was about 17 yrs old...
I started on R13 and now use 2008 I have written custom lisp's and used it to sketch eveything...
What did u think of the sketch...? lol simple but clear is my opinion