What in the world happened???????

[lastdaze04]

Here I was, walking into a burger joint with my daughter. We eat and go back out to the car and it will barely start. It runs like crap:eek:, but it ran fine before we went in. What happened???? Sooooo, I end up putting all 9 miles home at 15mph:mad2:. It is a regular miss. So I guess I check for a bad plug or cop, if I rule that out then what????:confused: I am open to suggestions. Thanks for all the help in advance. I am happy tho that it happened on a weekend and I have time to check it out.:depress:
Hope to hear from everybody soon.:beer:
Rick

[MENINBLK]

You could have a bad coil or two.
I've got 2 bad coils that I need to change.

[Mike Poore]

I'd wonder if one of the many sensors that manages stuff got stuck open or closed?

Hey Zack? Which doo-dad should he tap?

When you get it to the shop, surely the OBD-whatever's gonna throw an error code, and the machine's gonna tell you, right away, I bet.

[Pat]

The first thing to check for is fault codes, was there a check engine light? The barely start indication is the key. I'm thinking a weak or dead cell and not enough voltage to run things.

A run down battery could be caused by a bad alternator, or a worn belt not letting the alternator charge the battery.

An electrical system check is in order.

[Bradley G]

She didn't like where you stopped? :P
On topic:
Did it feel like it went into limp mode?

[lastdaze04]

You could have a bad coil or two.
I've got 2 bad coils that I need to change.

Working on that now? Will letchya know what I find. Thanks.

[lastdaze04]

I'd wonder if one of the many sensors that manages stuff got stuck open or closed?

Hey Zack? Which doo-dad should he tap?

When you get it to the shop, surely the OBD-whatever's gonna throw an error code, and the machine's gonna tell you, right away, I bet.

Did Not throw any error codes...............
Keep'em coming.
Rick

[lastdaze04]

The first thing to check for is fault codes, was there a check engine light? The barely start indication is the key. I'm thinking a weak or dead cell and not enough voltage to run things.

A run down battery could be caused by a bad alternator, or a worn belt not letting the alternator charge the battery.

An electrical system check is in order.

Will take it to Autozone and have an analysis done, and check out the alternater charging system, but it does have a new 850 cold cranking amp battery in it, so it had better not have any low voltage due to an insufficiant battery charge. Thanks

Keep'em coming
Rick

[lastdaze04]

She didn't like where you stopped? :P
On topic:
Did it feel like it went into limp mode?

WhatABurger?? I thought that was a decent hamburger joint...??:confused: Besides it was the only one open at 3:30 am in the morning, I am now checking my messages @ 10:30 in the morning.:o
I think it did not go into limp mode. How would I know?? what would the car act like?
Thanks for the suggestions
Keep'em coming
Rick:beer:

[Paul]

WAG's that are easy to check: fouling of MAF sensor,?loose vacuum hose slipped off? Zack mentioned the fuel rail pressure sensor going bad once. water/oil in the spark plug tubes causing a misfire? bad ground to the block? blown fuse or relay?

[lastdaze04]

Well I found the problem. I will post pictures later. I took the coil covers off and on the passenger side I see the very front one in pieces so I pull it out and out comes the spark plug with it, and that is not all, imbeded in the threads of the spark plug is aluminum from the threads that held the spark plug in. I now have a worthless head. To make matter worse is I wasn't even racing or doing anything, just going out to eat with my daughter. Life sucks then you die.
Any body want a MM $12,000 or best offer.:mad2:
Rick
Will go back to a Fox body car, much easier to work on!

[FordNut]

Well I found the problem. I will post pictures later. I took the coil covers off and on the passenger side I see the very front one in pieces so I pull it out and out comes the spark plug with it, and that is not all, imbeded in the threads of the spark plug is aluminum from the threads that held the spark plug in. I now have a worthless head. To make matter worse is I wasn't even racing or doing anything, just going out to eat with my daughter. Life sucks then you die.
Any body want a MM $12,000 or best offer.:mad2:
Rick
Will go back to a Fox body car, much easier to work on!


Bummer. Maybe a thread insert will get it going again.

What torque spec was used last time the plugs were replaced? Over-torqueing is really bad on aluminum heads.

[Zack]

Ford has a new tool out for quick and reliable repair of spark plug holes.
The head is not trashed!

[baltimoremm]

Ford has a new tool out for quick and reliable repair of spark plug holes.
The head is not trashed!

do tell....how does it work?

[lastdaze04]

Inquiring minds want to know:D

[Pat]

As I understand it, a Kit with the required boring drill bit, cutting tap, insertion tool, tang break-off tool and steel insert with locking ring is needed.

The boring drill bit is employed to properly oversize the old spark plug hole. The alignment of the bit into the hole is important and the bit must not be allowed to drift.

Next the cutting tap cuts the threads for the Outside diameter oversize steel insert, the inside diameter of the insert is the same as the threads on the spark plug.

The insert is threaded into the taped hole with the insertion tool which grips the tang at the bottom of the insert and the operator turns a handle to "screw" in the insert.

Next the tang must be broken off with the tang break-off tool (what else).
This little tang will just drop away.

The depth of the insert into the hole is usually given with the data sheet in the kit. This is needed so that when you tap the locking ring into the groove cut into the insert the top of the locking ring will be flush with the top of the spark plug hole.

The purpose of the locking ring is to keep the insert from turning in the threaded spark plug hole when the plug is torqued down.

This task is usually performed with the head off the engine, but can be done on the engine if extraordinary precautions are taken to keep the aluminum filings and discarded tang from contaminating the cylinder.

I can envision the piston being brought up to a point closest to the head while leaving room for the taps to come through. A cloth patch, soaked in cam lube (sticky) is inserted into the hole and thus will catch any material from the cutting and tang break off operation. A sewing hook can retrieve the patch back through the hole. FWIW.


Regards,

[KillJoy]

Helacoil????

:dunno:

KillJoy

[Blk Mamba]

Helacoil????

:dunno:

KillJoy

Fancy one with a retainer.

[lastdaze04]

Thanks Pat: For the update. I am not much of a maechanic, and I am one of these people that everything I touch turns to doggy doo. So I will take this to a Mechanic. I have a SVT Dealership near me. He likes my car and he is reasonable, like if it only takes 15 min to fix, he will charge only 15 min of an $85.00 per hour rate. I been to others who have an hour min. So if it takes 15 mins I still will have to pay $85.00. He also has a couple of guys who put Eaton Superchargers on Mustangs several times a week. They know what they are doing. My only question is did I only hurt the spark plug hole or worse, instead of having a gap the spark plug arm was smashed onto the center electrode I am hoping that I did not ruin the piston....:eek:
Anyway time will tell. I am glad I have an old pickup to drive.

[Pat]

Do you mean Helicoil, Killjoy?

Yes, there are aluminum and steel helicoils that can also be used. The procedure is the same, just no locking ring. Selecting which insert to use, helicoil or steel insert depends on how much material was stripped away with the old plug. For larger applications like a spark plug with a torque value I would do the steel insert. For plugging holes to fasten a light piece of material or fastening a piece with many fasteners to hold it then a helicoil would be sufficient, IMO.

[Pat]

Lastdaze. The mechs have a tool called a borescope that, like the name implies, is a lighted magnifying glass on a thin flexable shaft that can be inserted in the spark plug hole to determine if the piston was damaged.

My son has one here and we used it to peer inside my Supercharger's oil sump to see if we had indeed siphoned out all the old fluid. Works great and lasts a long time.

Regards,

[lastdaze04]

Lastdaze. The mechs have a tool called a borescope that, like the name implies, is a lighted magnifying glass on a thin flexable shaft that can be inserted in the spark plug hole to determine if the piston was damaged.

My son has one here and we used it to peer inside my Supercharger's oil sump to see if we had indeed siphoned out all the old fluid. Works great and lasts a long time.

Regards,

Thanks for the info Pat, between you and Zack I will be expecting great things from my mechanix.:rolleyes:
Rick

[Iowa Rick]

Could the engine have dropped a valve? If the center electrode was smashed and the threads stripped it sounds like mechanical damage. A piece of ??? pushed by piston contacts electrode and forces plug up, stripping out threads. I hope not but it sounds expensive. Rick
:depress: