Can on jack stands

[Svashtar]

I am following Cruztakers advice and painting my calipers. I have 2 jackstands for the front, but plan on using bottle jacks for the back.

Dumb question: Is it OK to support the entire car from the 4 jack points in the frame, or should I put the jackstands under the front axle or does it matter?

[freakstatus]

The frame would give better (safer) support. Don't forget to turn off your airride switch.

[BAD MERC]

It's okay to support it on the jack points (frame) but turn the suspension off. Don't leave it too long.

[CRUZTAKER]

Post pics!

I had the focus propped up for two days a few weeks ago doing it's calipers.

Remember to let it sit 6-8 hours before putting the wheels back on (so you don't scratch the curing paint), and let them cure nearly 36 hours total before driving. ;)

[Vortex]

Depends how long. If a car is in storage for year(s) and it is on the frame it will actually stretch and your door wont close. For that long period storage on jackstands put it under the axle in back and on the front suspension.

[Svashtar]

Thanks guys. I'll try to finish the job in a few hours, and then get the wheels back on and let it sit for as long as I can. I should be able to plan to leave it sitting for at least a day.

Going to go with the Eastwood stuff, as it's on sale today for just $31.99. I don't know what the "hats" are that you guys mention, but will figure it out once I get the wheels off.

Think I'll go with plain old red for my black '03. Only other color I liked was blue.

Also, I noticed several of you painted the front of the wheel where the studs are mounted. That is mostly hidden by the tire, but guess I'll tape off the studs and paint that black as well.

Thanks again, and I'll try not to screw it up and will post pics when I'm done in a few days. (Got to wait for the stuff to arrive.)

Norm

P.S. That just took a second. In addition to the "Brake Caliper coating system, RED", I also ordered some hi-gloss black brake caliper / drum paint for $8.99, figuring I would paint the exposed part of the wheel. Probably plain old rustoleum or one of the others mentioned here would work just as well, but I know this stuff won't have a temp problem.

[CRUZTAKER]

Don't forget an assortment of brushes!

Your local craft store will have (variety) packages consisting of many sizes and shapes for as little a $5.99. Be aware, the horse hair ones tend to shed bristles with the Eastwood product. Use the artifical bristled ones.

If the weather is as cool there as it is here, you will have plenty of time to get several coats on each, and reach around to the undersides and backs of each for atleast 1-2 good coats on the unseen areas. This last can stayed workable for nearly 8 hours (keeping the lid on between breaks).

When I did the rotor areas you speak of, I also used VHT black from a rattle can. What a big pain in the ass masking the rotors and trying to turn them to coat all around. I finally made a card board template.
However, when I did the focus here lately, I actually used gloss black grill paint from a 1 pint can I found at sears. I used a brush, triple coated the rotor ring, and finished in a fraction of the time it took to do the masking.

It has held up far, with nearly 800 miles of driving.

[Svashtar]

Cruztaker, thanks very much. I was going to cover the studs with tubing to keep paint off them, and make a carboard template myself for the spray. But the paint on sounds a lot faster, so I may try that.

I was also just going to use regular flux brushes for the application. I think they would do OK, but maybe too stiff. I'll see.

Q: Did you or anyone consider bleeding the system and removing the rotors?

The reason I ask is that my mechanic suggested I do that and bring them over to him and he will sandblast them (free of charge) and then I would have to reinstall them. I have no idea if this is something I want to do. Obviously I would get great coverage.

Guess it depends on how well you can get coverage with them on the car?

Thanks for your input.

Norm

[Svashtar]

And kudos to all you guys for not making fun of the obvious typo in my thread title! Probably subliminal, as I'm always calling my neighbors ricer car with the huge bottle tailpipe a "can." :D

[CRUZTAKER]

I was also just going to use regular flux brushes for the application. I think they would do OK, but maybe too stiff. I'll see.
Just make sure you have detail brushes on hand. Trust me, you wish you had. It may seem tedious but some arears will require extra time to pull off that oem look. It's worth the hassle.




Q: Did you or anyone consider bleeding the system and removing the rotors?

I am sure some have...maybe not here, but somewhere. The whole design of the g2 product was to avoid that. With a little perseverance it is possible to achieve a finish that will appear oem and last the lifetime of the caliper. Not too shabby for $39 and a few hours of private time.;)

[Svashtar]

Thanks again. I asked about the jackstands as I recall when the car was new (and I knew considerably less than I do now) changing out the control arms. I jacked the car up by the frame and then put jackstands under the axle to work on it. Hopefully I didn't screw something up by letting the weight of the car rest on them.

[CRUZTAKER]

You have to be done by now...:rolleyes:


Show us some sheet boooya!