Climate control issue!! Blower motor dead, help!

[Vortech347]

The blower motor does not turn on. I tried every button on the HVAC unit. That has power and appears to be functioning correctly. I can hear the blend doors moving when I choose different options.

This is hell. It just started warming up in Utah. Apparently the ESP dosn't cover this. (Thanks ford)

I'm going to get a volt meter and check at the motor to see if its getting power or not. What is the best way in doing this process. The fuses are all OK and so is the breaker and relay. I checked them all myself.

A few people have told me its either the motor itself or the Digital Unit. I about had a heart attack when I heard the price of the Unit.

Let me know guys how to access that blower motor.

Thanks!!!

P.S. other than that she's still going strong and running well.

[JACook]

Most likely the motor driver, which is separate from the EATC unit.
Those, too, are repairable...

[RF Overlord]

I'm going to get a volt meter and check at the motor to see if its getting power or not. What is the best way in doing this process.The blower uses PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) to vary the speed, so you should use an analogue voltmeter and set the blower speed on high...that should at least tell you if the motor is receiving close to the correct voltage.

[FordNut]

There is a controller for the blower motor, it is mounted just behind the passenger's side valve cover.

I had my blower motor replaced under ESP with no problems.

It also required an adapter pigtail, as the connector has been revised. The pigtail itself would have been over $100 if ESP hadn't covered it.

[Vortech347]

The ESP On my car covers powertrain only. I guess there are different versions. This is coming from my good friend that works at Ford. I'll give them a call back and see if this may be covered.

Thanks guys. Keep the suggestions/inputs coming.

[Marauderjack]

Unplug your fan motor and jump it directly to your battery.....doesn't matter about polarity as it will run either direction......BE AWARE it will run on HIGH if the blower is OK!!!:eek:

If it runs on high you will need a blower control module...see attachment.

IT IS A PITA TO INSTALL BUT you can do it!!:beer:

[Vortech347]

Thanks Jack. I'll check that tonight.

[FordNut]

The ESP On my car covers powertrain only. I guess there are different versions. This is coming from my good friend that works at Ford. I'll give them a call back and see if this may be covered.

Thanks guys. Keep the suggestions/inputs coming.

Mine was ESP Premium Care, $50 deductible, bumper-to-bumper, 5 yr/100k mi.

[BlkRauderMatt]

I just got done fixing the same problem. Though I do still have to replace the blend door actuator inside the dash, your problem is the lesser of two evils..

MarauderJack is showing you the part you'll need. I JUST replaced it two days ago in fact. Yes, it is a PITA.. But I did not remove the valve cover OR the coolant lines. Get a 1/4" angle socket and you should be able to get both bolts undone.

I think the part was about $53 at the Ford Dealership... Good luck!

[Vortech347]

Good news folks....

I tested the wire that goes into the blower motor and it is seeing 12.6 volts, same as the batt with the car just on "run" without the engine on. With the AC on high.

So it is not an electronic part but the motor.

Now....

Does this mofo come off as one big ass piece or can I just pull the motor out?

[Vortech347]

It was not the blower motor. For fun i rigged it to the battery and it worked great. I called my buddy about the part you guys mentioned replacing and he had it in stock. Being the bad ass friend he is...he brought it home with him from the dealer and I installed it....

I now have A/C again. Thanks guys for your help.

I moved the Valve above it all (not sure what it is) and removed the lower heater core hose and the install was fine. Just use a 1/4 inch 8mm shallow socket with a swivel and you're golden!

Thanks again. MM.net rules.

[Marauderjack]

Glad to be of assistance!!:beer:

[RoyLPita]

If you need a blower motor, you'll also need the connecting harness to hook it up. Here are the part numbers:
Controller: 8W7Z-19E624-A
Blower motor: 1W7Z-19805-BA
Connecting harness: 4W7Z-14A411-B

Hope this helps.

[Vortech347]

Everything works great so I don't think I need to change anything else.

:banana2:

I did notice the new controller had a different part number and a hand written "R" on it. Is this a revised version?

[SID210SA]

I just took mine in for the blower moter not working....I was told that it was the blower motor fan control switch that burnt out on mine...

$203.00 to fix so far....havent got a second call yet to see if there was any collateral damage

[SID210SA]

Ended up being $202.75....$63.67 in parts....PN 8W7Z-19E624-A.
Discription: Control 309407

[Vortech347]

Someone needs to be found on here that works for ford and can setup an mm.net account to get those prices down! I only paid 35$ for that part.

Oh and my ESP is an additional 3 year, 75k power train and suspension only. Its a 100$ deductable.

[bob6364]

Hate to revive an early summer post but the blower quit on me over the weekend...seems these blowers came with a timer installed to quit at the 4 year mark. Heh

[Krytin]

It appears to be the BCM's.
PM Ray - The Dealer.
I just got two from him - he said they have been changing them out frequently!

[Drock96Marquis]

Normally it's the transistor that fails in the BMSC. When you turn the fan speed adjustment all the way up (pushing it up past the last stop) the EATC turns on the BMSC hi-speed bypass relay. These rarely fail and makes it easy to determine if the issue is the motor or the BMSC. Though you can't go by that alone (sometimes the circuit traces on the board burn up)
On older models corrosion of the connector is common, though the '98-current design is less suspect.


For those testing voltage, you should ALWAYS see battery voltage (in run) at the blower motor as long as the fuse isn't blown. The BMSC, or the resistor on manual climate control cars, is controlling ground to the motor rather than B+


A worn blower motor draws a lot more amperage which can quickly kill the BMSC

[96DiamondVIII]

OK--slightly stupid question. I have this same problem (blower fan just stopped working, conveniently while I'm also troubleshooting an overheating issue). Consensus seems to be that you test if it's the motor or the BCM by seeing if the motor is getting 12V with the fan speed selector on high.

Where is the blower motor located?? If I knew that, I could test it. Thanks!

[Marauderjack]

OK--slightly stupid question. I have this same problem (blower fan just stopped working, conveniently while I'm also troubleshooting an overheating issue). Consensus seems to be that you test if it's the motor or the BCM by seeing if the motor is getting 12V with the fan speed selector on high.

Where is the blower motor located?? If I knew that, I could test it. Thanks!

Sorry it took so long to reply here but I couldn't find a photo and it is raining here!!:argue:

Attached is a photo of the blower and power plug....PM me if you run into problems and I'll be glad to help you!!:beer:

Marauderjack:burnout:

[shawn.criswell]

Unplug your fan motor and jump it directly to your battery.....doesn't matter about polarity as it will run either direction......BE AWARE it will run on HIGH if the blower is OK!!!:eek:

If it runs on high you will need a blower control module...see attachment.

IT IS A PITA TO INSTALL BUT you can do it!!:beer:
I had the same issue with mine just awhile a back. cost me ~150-160 bucks at the ford house for parts and labor.

[96DiamondVIII]

For those testing voltage, you should ALWAYS see battery voltage (in run) at the blower motor as long as the fuse isn't blown. The BMSC, or the resistor on manual climate control cars, is controlling ground to the motor rather than B+


A worn blower motor draws a lot more amperage which can quickly kill the BMSC

I finally got around to testing this and see *no* voltage at all at the power plug for the blower motor. What does this mean? It seems the fuse can't be blown because the blower stopped working, started again briefly and then stopped again...I'll pull the fuse tonight and check to make sure, but if the symptom of a failed BMSC is a voltage less than 12 and greater than zero, and my fuse isn't bad--what then?

[96DiamondVIII]

Fuse looks good, I'm going to see if I can't get the BCM replaced tomorrow morning, got the part yesterday--hopefully that will fix it. If not...hmmm.

[bob6364]

Symptom: The blower motor does not turn on. I tried every button on the HVAC unit. That has power and appears to be functioning correctly. I can hear the blend doors moving when I choose different options.

My interior climate blower wouldn't come on during the summer for 2 days and when I went to inspect it oh my it started working so i left it alone...well wouldn't you know it the dang thing failed yesterday here are some pics I took tonight.Total time to replace and snap pics was 45 minutes.The car is a DD as you can see by the winter filth.
There are a bunch of threads on here already about this so I thought i would add some pics to the words.

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t153/bob6364/EATC%20Replace/th_EATCReplace002.jpg (http://s159.photobucket.com/albums/t153/bob6364/EATC%20Replace/?action=view&current=EATCReplace002.jpg)
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http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t153/bob6364/EATC%20Replace/th_EATCReplace011.jpg (http://s159.photobucket.com/albums/t153/bob6364/EATC%20Replace/?action=view&current=EATCReplace011.jpg)
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