Air Suspension dead - need help and opinions

[QWK SVT]

Yesterday morning on the way to work, I realized the ride was rather rough, and after a few miles, the Air Susp light came on... I had to drive it home, basically riding on the bump stops - what a very bumpy ride!

Upon getting home, I tried all the simple ideas, to get the backend to raise back up. Cycle on-off, flipping the switch on-off, etc. Nothing. Both sides are equally low, so I figure it's upstream of the bags. Only thing I did notice was that I could hear several "clicks" and/or "ticks" coming from the general vicinity of the compressor/air filter.

Here's how the car currently sits:
http://qwksvt.com/Sharing/low.jpg

I read how some were able to put air in the bags using another air compressor and cycling the car to ACC and OFF. I tried with my small compressor that fits under a car seat, but wasn't able to get that to work. I checked the ride height adjustment, all associated fuses and the relay, but nothing was out of the norm, there, so I guess it's not an easy fix...

Looking at the compressor, it's not too promising. There's a lot of corrosion...

Top side:
http://qwksvt.com/Sharing/Compressor1.jpg

Bottom side:
http://qwksvt.com/Sharing/Compressor2.jpg

When I talked to my Service Manager (friend) over the phone, he told me he thought it was most likely the compressor, or module. This was before I pulled the compressor, and looked at it. It's more than just a little corrosion... That can't be good, but is that it? What does everyone think? Could this be the root of my problems? Any other thoughts?

The pricing for replacement parts from Ford are not cheap, and are even worse North of the border, even with my discount... The compressor is $358 and the module is $470. :eek: I may have to order from the US, and wait for shipping :depress:

Really appreciate any thoughts and feedback, and I'm really hoping folks with similar experiences weigh in, before I start spending a ton of dough...

TIA

[Richy04]

I have one repaired and all ready to go, you simply need to send me your old one in return and ship both ways. If you want it let me know, the price is free as long as I get the old one from you. Richy

[Bradley G]

Hey Richy04, That is very kind of you .
It is great to see old parts being recycled and you saving the members some time and money!
You da man!:bows:
I have one repaired and all ready to go, you simply need to send me your old one in return and ship both ways. If you want it let me know, the price is free as long as I get the old one from you. Richy

[Richy04]

BTW,

The problem is corrosion worked its way to the armature and contaminated the board, brushes and copper surface of the armature.

Start by removing the black bracket and the three torx (little) screws from the crank cover and the one phillips screw holding the black chamber to the bracket, you can push down and turn the chamber to remove it but be careful and mindful of the red O-Ring in the housing, apply some vaseline to the base of the chamber and place it on the side for later.

You can simply remove the housing (you may break the torx bolts so be prepared to drill out and replace them).

Once you have the four (big torx) screws off, you have to pull straight up to get it off as the armature end bearing is loosely pressed into that housing.

Then start by cleaning out all of the debris which collects on the magnets attached to the inside of the housing. Then clean and paint the base of the housing and outside of it with flat black paint and put it on the side to dry.

Once you do that, then remove the 4 phillips head screws holding the pc board with the brushes from the aluminum base plate, then push the connector with the black and red connections into the housing to give you more slack in lifting the board as it it tight. Clean behind the board as best you can with a stiff brush and some contact cleaner in the aluminum crevices and the back of the pc board as this is where it shorts out to the housing and all of that white crud collects. Then clean the top of the board with a tooth brush around the carbon brushes.

You can use crokus cloth or a fine sandpaper to clean the armature until the copper is evident again. Then take a razor blade or dental pick and clean the fine grooves between the copper tracks of carbon tracking debris, spin the motor and make sure the area the brushes ride on are smooth and clean, it must be smooth or the brushes will wear prematurely. . Give it a good shot of CRC or silicone spray to ward off further oxidation and clean the base where the housing reattaches to remove any aluminum scaling so you can have a tight fit and seal.

Give the crank area a shot of WD 40 and wipe the lip clean and make sure its dry. The newly painted motor cover/bearing holder can be reinstalled (give it a shot inside of silicone spray) but remember to reseal it with silicone sealant and 4 new screws (drill them thru if you have to and bolt from behind but seal it real good). When you put the black bracket back on, you must seal the cover over the piston/crank area as well.

Reassemble the bracket to the unit and gently twist the chamber back on and reattach all of the screws you removed making sure everything is sealed real good. Gently pull the black and red wires back thru the hole after applying some silicone sealant to the hole and reseat the rubber in the housing.

You can bench test it by powering the black and red wires with 12 volts. The pump should work good as new and if you place your finger over the orange cap on the chamber, there should be some pressure buildup in the chamber against your finger.

When you reinstall the pump, be careful not to nick the fresh flat black paint so it stays nice and insulated from the elements and enjoy a working compressor again for pennies on the dollar.. Regards.. Richy04

http://i31.tinypic.com/15dt8uc.jpg
http://i26.tinypic.com/2eeykif.jpg

[JMan]

Richy,
Awesome info! Great to have members like you around.

J

[RUSTY]

If and when mine goes (Salted roads) I will benefit greatly from this info Richy thanks, and I think that if I had it out I would also insall it in the trunk.

[magindat]

Before I read Richy's info, I would say it's the motor based on the fact the you hear clicking which are realys controlled byt he module which means the module is OK and the looks of that motor housing.

Thanx for the info Richy.

[O's Fan Rich]

Wow, that looks ugly.
Maybe it's another good reason for moving mine to the trunk.

[QWK SVT]

Wow, Richy! Thanks - that's a lot af really great information :bows:

I'm going to take a closer look at it all tonight, when I get home, but I may take you up on that offer (though I feel you should get something for your efforts, if I do go that route). I'll reply here or PM you later... Thanks again!

I'm going to put power to my unit tonight, to test and confirm it's not working. Just to confirm, am I putting +12v to both the black and red wires, and no ground?

[omarauder]

Excellent info!! Any idea what the blue and green wires do?

[Richy04]

black and red only.. Believe me, thats your problem as I described..

[magindat]

am I putting +12v to both the black and red wires, and no ground?

There HAS to be ground in the equation somewhere.

Richy is it the standard black for ground, red for power?

[Richy04]

I didnt disassemble the device where the blue and green wire go as there was no need to dig any further than the motor for repair on Bradley G's.

The black chamber holds a drying agent and also allows for a bit of air reserve and amplification and is replaceable, the white chamber is a tuned air input/vent which helps to allow air to enter or leave the system with minimal noise.

The Blue and green wire attach to a selenoid which allows the air in or out of the system to bleed off excess or lock the air into the air ride bags. When you shut the car, you will hear air gurgle out of the system and its that relay/ selenoid which allows that to occur. If you notice, its located at the top of the compressor piston just before the black chamber, so it controls the air in or out or monitors pressure or both.

The selenoid prevents "backflow" from the rebound of the airbags pushing air back as well. A simple reed valve system is probably located after the piston and before the selenoid you asked about, but the selenoid is there to protect the compressor from air being forced back into it while you drive which will eventually damage the unit as the reeds or check valve is prob delicate.


Its pretty simple in design. My guess is that these go to the ecm or somewhere to be activated since the system will throw a light up on the dash if it fails so the system is monitored by the cars electronics.

Anyway, if anyone has spare bad units such as LCM's, EATC's, heated seat switches, compressors,etc. you can send em to me for rebuild and pretty much always be assured that I can supply you with a rebuilt one anytime you need it.

If you decide to tackle the compressor job yourself and get hung up simply email me and I will help you out. These things are *****ty by design, but can be repaired with a little patience and time.

If I can tell you anything, clean your compressor up now and seal it good before it gets crappy looking and fails. Put this mod before the CAI's and 4.10's IMHO as I can say without reservation that they all will fail when left to rot under your hood as this and the bags are the Achilles heel for sure.

[Richy04]

Red and black operate the compressor manually for your purposes. They are the positive (red) and ground (black) for the motor. Not having schematics in front of me, I can tell you that they go to a module or ecu somewhere which is in turn controlled by the ride height sensors in the rear.

[Richy04]

I still have the cover off of the repaired one and I will take and add pics tonight so you can see the innards of the compressor.

[QWK SVT]

Well, I tried putting power to the compressor, and got no satisfaction... Guess it bit the ghost... Having read the rebuid instructions, I'm thinking replacement is my best option - as it's my daily driver, I need to get the car up and running, asap.

Ricky - a PM is coming your way, man...

[omarauder]

Again, excellent info! Your probably right that the blu & grn wires are for some kind of bleed valve. I can hear it bleed sometimes after I park, and it seems to be from were the compressor is located.
I think I'll O/H mine like you suggest. Don't like the looks of all that rust....

[TAKEDOWN]

Great info, you are a handsome guy too!

[Bradley G]

I'm happy I sent the part to richy to fix and now it's continues its life in another Marauder instead of going into the garbage!:banana:

[Richy04]

Great info, you are a handsome guy too!


Thats not my real picture, here I am below.. :D Tnx Richy

http://www.tinypic.ws/files/l3i8hype7fz1barhotyz.jpg

[studio460]

Richy: You don't happen to have TWO of those compressors laying around, do you?

Air Suspension Problem Description:

I had my Marauder sitting for some time (over a year), un-garaged, in Southern California (so, relatively temperate weather, but still, outside, with morning condensation, etc.). It seems like either the electronics or the compressor has failed. It just never turns on anymore. The rear tires seem to be riding on SOMETHING, so there still must be air pressure in the system, and the bladders must still be intact. The left side is a bit lower than the right side, but it's been that way since new, as I recall. Again, ride seems normal. I just can't ever engage the compressor. I just put new oversized tires and wheels on the car this afternoon, and after I finished mounting the new wheels on the car and dropped the jack, the resulting rear ride height was surprisingly, "just about right."

Symptoms: Cycled suspension switch on/off. Cycled "ACC" key switch on/off. No "click," no "whirr," no sound of any kind.

By the way, where is the compressor/dryer module located?

[studio460]

Guess what? I stopped half-way in my driveway and the street, because I forgot something in my other car. I put the Marauder in park for a moment, and . . . voila! The compressor started up! Woo hoo!

[Richy04]

If you run into trouble with yours, I will have svt's on the bench by the end of next week if all goes well. I am finishing the one I am sending him on Monday and his will be in the mail back to me. I would like to get a few of the items I mentioned here so I can accomodate others who may need them if I can. I try to fix this stuff in my spare time if I can. Tnx Richy

The drier module is the big black canister on the compressor, it twists off after removing one philips head screw from the ear on the side, but be careful with the orange o-ring inside.

[maraudermetz]

I have a single wheel which looks as though it sags, but can not be sure of it. I live out in the country and as you can guess, there is not a flat peace of ground around within fifty miles... Is this a common problem as well? Also QWKSVT, can you send me specifics on the tires you are running. I have drove around everywhere in the general area and as soon as I mention different tire sizes that seem to be scared. I would appreciate the help, thank you.

[Richy04]

Got caught up at work, and I wanted to make this particular one Canada Proof!! The sticker makes it pump up faster..:D

Here it is:

http://i25.tinypic.com/20icbbm.jpghttp://i26.tinypic.com/2aiok9f.jpg

[QWK SVT]

Richy, that looks sa-weeet!!! :cool:

Again, I can't thank you enough!:bows:

[sicilianmarquis]

hey checked if there were any TSB's there were none for the compressor

[Richy04]

I resent you the Pm, I noticed the website was having trouble today so I wasnt sure if you got my PM.. Fedex said it will be there on Friday.Tnx Richy

[QWK SVT]

Just wanted to close this thread off - Richy sent me the compressor pictured above, and (after a bit of time stuck in customs, crossing the border) got to me. It took all of 5-minutes to install, and right away it jacked the back back up in the air, and the car rides like it should again...

I'm sending my old compressor on to Richy, and hopefully it will help someone else who gets into this situation.;)

Richy, I've said it in PMs, but I can't thank you enough for everything you've done:bows: It's VERY much appreciated, my friend! :bows:

[Richy04]

Glad it worked out, sorry for all of the Canadian red tape and the shipping cost.. Wish I could have sent it to someone near the border to lower the shipping cost.

[JamieDrake]

Wow! I'm glad I decided to check here this morning. I was originally checking to see if you guys knew of a cheaper solution to buying a replacement compressor at the dealer, but I'll be doing the rebuild I think....At least I was able to pump the airbags up manually to make the car drivable.

Thanks for your detailed instructions Richy!

[Richy04]

let us know how you make out..

quik, I got the old one from you, thanks!!!

[QWK SVT]

let us know how you make out..

quik, I got the old one from you, thanks!!!


Crazy - I dropped it off at a post office in MI on Saturday, and it got to you already... USPS is quicker from MI to NJ than FedEx is from NJ to Canada! :confused:

[mark751]

hello everyone, I had the same problem and turned out to be the compressor. I drove mine home and because the air bags failed the rear end pinion seal took a pounding and started to leak. I advise you to chek that out if you drove the car a long distance.

[MarauderBoy]

Thanks so much for your instructions! Figuring I had nothing to lose I was able to pull off a successful disassembly/reassembly. I am shocked at the amount of water and gunk that was in there for a low mileage fair weather driver.

[Krytin]

Add another to the list of satisfied customers!!
My suspension bottomed out (it really didn't have too far to go to get there!) this morning on the way home from work. Got some sack time and had it repaired as per these instructions - works smoother than the day it rolled out of the showroom!

Thanks Rich!!!