Finally installing my PI TC and 4.30s. What else do I need for the install?

[studio460]

I already have a 3,000 RPM-stall PI Stallion torque converter, and am about to order a set of Ford Racing 4.30 gears. What else do I need to order to be totally ready for the installer? Some kind of gasket for the torque converter? A rear-end gasket set as well? Thanks!

[MM_BKK]

You might want to do the rear engine cooling mod since the tranny will be out anyway. It's a great opportunity. This is a great mod if you want your engine to last for a long time. It helps prevent overheating of the driver side cyl head.
Them 4.30 gears sounds pretty steep. Have fun with them. I'm thinking of going back to 3.55 from my 4.10. With the D1SC and 3000 stall, I just can't get my 285/50/18 to hook up! :burn: :D

[Embassy]

Them 4.30 gears sounds pretty steep. Have fun with them. I'm thinking of going back to 3.55 from my 4.10. With the D1SC and 3000 stall, I just can't get my 285/50/18 to hook up! :burn: :D

Same here, but I still love the the Merc's 4:30s.

[Glenn]

Shooter - I would stick with the proven 4:10s gears unless you are serious about the drag strip. 4:10s will transform your MM and still not cost you more then 1 mpg. The 4:30s will cost you more mpg. Buy the gears from FRPP and also get the install kit they sell. I would also buy their HD LSD rebuild kit to install while your putting in the new gears. See DR and get the rear head cooling kit especially since you live in LA.

I would ONLY trust a good Mustang speed shop to install the parts. I am sure you have many in LA to choose from. Once the parts are installed then get a GOOD tune on the car. Do not let the parts accummulate - get them installed soon so you can realize the fun of the new MM.

Glenn :burnout:

[Glenn]

MM_BKK:

You will need DRs to hook. I would buy a set of the replica Mustang Bullitt wheels (18"x10") from Mustangs Unlimited to mount your DRs. MT sells a new size which will work perfectly - 305x45x18. You will not have any issues with this combination and they will not rub with the wheels. Search for my previous post on these wheels.


Glenn :burnout:

[Blackened300a]

I have the same set-up and haven't had any traction issues using Nitto 420S tires on the rear.

[BruteForce]

Since you'll have it apart for the gears, you might as well do the TA Racing 8.8 Rear Girdle & Stud Kit upgrade. Couple more C notes but no extra labor charge since you have to take off the old one anyhoo.

http://www.innovativeinterceptors.com/performance.html

[studio460]

You might want to do the rear engine cooling mod since the tranny will be out anyway. It's a great opportunity. This is a great mod if you want your engine to last for a long time. It helps prevent overheating of the driver side cyl head.
Yup! I'm right with ya there. I've had the parts for that cooling mod in a box for four years, gathering dust, just waiting for the tranny work to commence!


Them 4.30 gears sounds pretty steep. Have fun with them. I'm thinking of going back to 3.55 from my 4.10. With the D1SC and 3000 stall, I just can't get my 285/50/18 to hook up!
Really? I just put 275/45/19s on my rears, and I can't even THINK of burning any rubber there's so much traction! That's really all I want to do—be able to actually LOSE traction, and burn rubber at red lights. I just think all that smoke and noise is way fun. So, normally aspirated, I figure I'm gonna NEED those 4.30s, at minimum.


Shooter - I would stick with the proven 4:10s gears unless you are serious about the drag strip. 4:10s will transform your MM and still not cost you more then 1 mpg. The 4:30s will cost you more mpg. Buy the gears from FRPP and also get the install kit they sell. I would also buy their HD LSD rebuild kit to install while your putting in the new gears.
No, never going to the drag strip, but to me, it's all about the first 60 feet! Since I'm staying normally aspirated in this Marauder, I thought I might as well go whole-hog on gearing. What's an "HD LSD" kit?


Since you'll have it apart for the gears, you might as well do the TA Racing 8.8 Rear Girdle & Stud Kit upgrade. Couple more C notes but no extra labor charge since you have to take off the old one anyhoo.
You read my mind, BR! I was thinking of tossing that in while I was at it! Oh, there's TWO 8.8 TA girdles now. A "low-profile" and "standard." Which one do I need? Much prefer the "old" TA logo on the girdle instead of their "fancy" new one.

[Glenn]

HD LSD: Heavy Duty limited slip differential kit from FRPP.

The 4:10s with the 3000 stall will enable you to burn rubber at will.

The standard profile girdle is fine.

Glenn :burnout:

[studio460]

HD LSD: Heavy Duty limited slip differential kit from FRPP.
Thanks! What do you get, performance-wise, with a limited-slip differential?


The 4:10s with the 3000 stall will enable you to burn rubber at will.
Thanks, but remember, we only have that crap, $4.99 a gallon, 91-octane, "premium" gas in California. My custom tune wasn't worth the dyno it was printed on because the octane is so low here. What octane do they have in Atlanta?


The standard profile girdle is fine.
That's what I figured. Thanks for the tips!