Amps, & Woofers, & Tweeters...oah my!!

[1of327]

I just procured a 4000watt amp and two fifteen inch speakers for Lilith...And Now i am at a loss as to how ( both design/ and functionality) of what to do with this stuff...I have seen pictures of sweet looking layouts with lights and chrome. Please be so kind as to give design ideas as there is LOTS of room to work with. I also do like the idea of a speaker being hidden by the back arm rest facing into the cab.

[magindat]

Ain't gonna fly with 2x 15's, but I can design for both to be on th rear deck and keep all trunk space.

Forward make model and year of speakers. I'll design and post.

[1of327]

Ain't gonna fly with 2x 15's, but I can design for both to be on th rear deck and keep all trunk space.

Forward make model and year of speakers. I'll design and post.


I have already taken the liberty of moving the multi-disk changer from the left to dead center under the rear brake light. what I invision is the two 15's on the sides located where the changer was and respectively on the other side with the other...
the year is uncertain but it is a Lanzar 4k watt amp...and both speakers are Lanzar Killohurts. Measurements will be forth coming. I just wanted to point a little speaker thru the arm reat area, certainly not a 15...


EDIT:
2 speakers: 6.5 x 15
(Lanzar Killohurts / 700 watt 4 ohm impedance)

1 Lanzar Amp: 23"x 10.5" x 2.5"
(Lanzar Max Pro 282 / 4000 watt/ 2 channel/ bridgeable MOSFET ) whatever MOSFET means!!

[Peace2Peep]

Hmmm...I think you might need an alternator and/or extra battery and isolator if you plan on running your system for 15 min or more with the engine off(I do when I wax her). Ask the pros here! 4000 watts is quite a significant amount of current!

[magindat]

metal–oxide–semiconductor field-effect transistor

[magindat]

That's a lotta go. Those 15's ain't gonna fit on the shelf, neither!!!

:rolleyes: Send the car and the equipment to me for a month.....:D

[1of327]

metal–oxide–semiconductor field-effect transistor


aren't you the smart one...

I cleared the trunk all out...not even the carpet is installed...I wanna get this s%$t done ..

[omarauder]

Wow! A 5hp stereo. Might affect your ET's if you have it cranked.....

[glassman99]

It amazes me how automobile audio equipment manufacturers can claim x,xxx watts from a 12 volt source, and the amp weighs next to nothing. My home stereo amp is rated at "only" 100 watts (per side) and weighs in at over 100 lbs. I needs a dedicated 20a , 110 volt power supply (and a power cord the size of a dryer) to operate (switchable to 240 volt). How do they test these 12v amps to verify the wattage?

Is it RMS? at what distortion level? at what frequency? realistic ohms? Not flaming, just wondering!

[Aren Jay]

buy a van, place in van, turn up loud.

Such things should not be put in a Marauder.

Just my opinion, I know a guy with the loudest sub system in western Canada. In his van.

[glassman99]

I agree, I can't even hear my radio when the engine is running but everyone has different tastes and different reasons for owning a Marauder.

[magindat]

It amazes me how automobile audio equipment manufacturers can claim x,xxx watts from a 12 volt source, and the amp weighs next to nothing. My home stereo amp is rated at "only" 100 watts (per side) and weighs in at over 100 lbs. I needs a dedicated 20a , 110 volt power supply (and a power cord the size of a dryer) to operate (switchable to 240 volt). How do they test these 12v amps to verify the wattage?

Is it RMS? at what distortion level? at what frequency? realistic ohms? Not flaming, just wondering!

First, your home amp is probably class A meaning all transistors are on all the time. They actually have HUGE windings (transformers) which drop the voltage and up the current (adding weight- where a car amp doesn't need them). Second, most car amps today are Class D, meaning they only turn on the transistors as needed, thus reducing heat, reducing draw at idle and allowing FAR more power - on demand. These amps don't 'stay ready' to make this power, they are 'switched on' by the signal as needed. A 1000W class D plays at about 200-ish watts and only goes to 1KW for a moment when the signal calls for it. At home, your 100W is cabable and ready and plays 100W ALL THE TIME.

Very basic, very brief.

Example:

Home Class A 110V x 20 Amps = 220W x 80% efficency = 176W max

Car Class D 13.5V x 200 Amps = 2700W x 92% efficiency = 2484W Max

[magindat]

buy a van, place in van, turn up loud.

Such things should not be put in a Marauder.

Just my opinion, I know a guy with the loudest sub system in western Canada. In his van.

I have participated in building (former) world record holding SPL vehicles - read that as 'louder than the space shuttle taking off'.

I think he should sell the subs and buy 4x MTX Thunder 10's or 4x Pioneer 10's and let me build a box (like King Kong) that fits on the shelf....

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=41476&highlight=king+kong

[Peace2Peep]

15's are great and all...but I'm with Magin...four tens of great quality will pound and "Fit" much easier in your vehicle. I like the fast tight hitting of the smaller subs. I currently have two tens and they HIT! But I would like to add two more just for fun!

[magindat]

15's are great and all...but I'm with Magin...four tens of great quality will pound and "Fit" much easier in your vehicle. I like the fast tight hitting of the smaller subs. I currently have two tens and they HIT! But I would like to add two more just for fun!

pi*r^2

10" > 3.14*5^2 = 78.5 sq in x 2 = 157 sq in

15" > 3.14*7.5^2 = 176.6 sq in

2x10" comes close to 1x15" BUT... 2x10" has TWO driving motors while 1x15" has only one AND 2x10" mms (moving mass) is less than 1x15" mms. Which is louder? 4x10 or 2x15? Hmm?

[rayjay]

If I did something like this to my DTR will it also drive the rats out of the garage?

I guess to each his own. I'm happy with the factory unit and Infinity Reference speakers x4.

[Stranger in the Black Sedan]

I had 4 MTX Thunder 10's in a Buick LeSabre with an Autotek Stealth Series amp back in the day. It would blow all of the tail lights and the whole back end of the car rattled even after stuffing the tailgate lid w/ fiberglass and then dynomatting. The license plate and the huge plastic tail lamp rattled. It sounded horrible outside and it was so loud inside that it was pointless. After 5 minutes I couldn't take it!! I sold that system in pieces after a few months. It was fun to show up to high school with, but that was about it. The back seats would flutter when the bass hit. It was a cheap setup but 4x10s with a lot of power is rediculously loud

[1of327]

I understand that bigger isn't necessarily better...But I just wanna do it cause I can. It is big and Impractical, but it will be nice to look at when I am done...

[magindat]

I understand that bigger isn't necessarily better...But I just wanna do it cause I can. It is big and Impractical, but it will be nice to look at when I am done...

Now THAT'S the RIGHT attitude!!! DO IT!!!!

[Peace2Peep]

I have not met a man whether old or young that listened to a properly tuned aftermarket sound system and felt "Satisfied" with his factory head and a couple speakers. Boom Boom is only part of what makes a sound system fun! It's like doing burnouts with your Marauder, you dont do it every time you drive but you just might enjoy it every once in a while. Factory equipment is usually trash, and the factory power of the Mercury headunit is just that. Garbage in...garbage out! More power is what this site is all about! Do it up buddy Make Lilith ROCK!

[hot-rauder]

i have a 120 amp breaker under the hood of my MM. previous owner had a stellar system and had to have some protection from blowing it up. plus the whole car is dynomatted and all wires are run under the carpet. i have 3 amp wires and full front and rear components hooked up.

i was maybe thinking of puttin the subs back in.

[Peace2Peep]

Ohhhh Yeah! That install would take minutes! Try out a bunch of stuff before you finalize...