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jjfingers
10-20-2002, 09:38 AM
Good Day,

Just to start off... This is one hell of a site. I've been checking it out for a few minutes and found it to be more than informative.

Okay, Okay, I get my 03MM this Wedn. The wait is killing me. I noticed some threads relating to break-in periods. My question is... should I wait certain amount of miles before making any mods? I'm looking to put on a couple of Flowmax series 40 Deltaflows (on Thurs). Any suggestions?...

Logan
10-20-2002, 09:40 AM
It's a personal preference thing. Some guys start modding immediately, like me. Some wait, and that's ok too.

My recommendation would be to wait for 1000 miles or so and get a feel for your car stock so you get a good understanding of what you want to modify. Who know's, you may prefer certain items be left stock...

jjfingers
10-20-2002, 09:49 AM
Thanx for the info.

bozobill
10-20-2002, 05:21 PM
jj: I installed Series 40 Flowmasters the day after I picked mine up and 9000 miles later they are significantly louder than when first installed. Seems even the stock mufflers get louder over time. You may want to take Logan's advice and run completely stock for a K or 2 and then consider the Series 50 which are a bit quieter.

piglet
10-20-2002, 05:55 PM
Bozobill,

Wow! 9K already on the might Marauder! I just broke 1000 this evening cruising with my best girl. Had to go on a honey-do with her to get mums and pumpkins to decorate the front of the house.

I have noticed the car has loosened up a bit and actually runs better with a few miles on it. Last night I broke the back in free while merging with traffic at bout 30-40 mph. Did a little fish tail. I was making a left turn to merge and punched it (dry surface) and the back end came loose. Woke me up quick.

I am really enjoying the car and it kills me how many people will look at the car like a stunned mullet as I drive by.

gonzo50
10-20-2002, 07:05 PM
I agree with Logan on waiting atleast 1000 miles before doing any kind of modifications, your Marauder may react differently to certain changes before the engine and moving parts break-in period.

cyclone03
10-20-2002, 10:30 PM
I just broke 2k on mine.
For brake in,BTW this only applies if you are the only person to test drive the car you can tell because it will only have about 3 miles on it.
Take it easy for about 300-500 miles (trust me thats as long as you can wait!)
Then run it (to the floor BTW)just to hear the 6000rpm shifts.
Next take it easy again only run it up the tach 3-5 times a day!
Then just drive it anyway you want.
It's been said that the 32v likes about 5000miles on it to really run well so I'm trying to take it easy on it until then.
But ,oh,that rip at 4000rpm................

BTW I DID NOT buy the car I test drove,86 miles, speed limiter test on my test drive:-) "Well no I don't want this one somebody may have drove it like me"

jjfingers
10-21-2002, 04:26 AM
Thanx all. Appreciate the advice.

jjfingers
10-21-2002, 04:49 AM
Is there a logical order to mod'ing? iie. first chip, second 4:11s, third...

Logan
10-21-2002, 05:42 AM
Chip n' Gears is best done as a combo, and best done at once. Total cost installed runs near 1000... But the bang for the buck factor is pretty high... :)

jjfingers
10-21-2002, 06:47 AM
Logan, thanks for your time...

What kind of output would that combo give at the wheels/crank?

Logan
10-21-2002, 08:46 AM
The chip will increase your hp/tq by 20hp and 30ft lbs. The additional torque is present throughout the powerband and really helps off the line. The 4.10's do nothing for power, but chop a healthy .4-.5 sec off your 0-60 and 1/4 miles times, as well as do a MUCH better job of keeping the motor in it's powerband... The additional power from the chip is good for another .2 seconds... Now, all that is said from being tested in 95+ degree temps... Now that it's alot cooler out, the effects will be even better...

With the chip, my power was 260rwhp and 280ft/lbs... Since then, I've added plugs, thermostat, X Pipe exhaust and eliminated the stock airbox...I'm probably at around 275hp and 290ft/lbs now...

I really need to get to the dyno...

jjfingers
10-21-2002, 09:29 AM
Thanks again my man.

I just got a price of 230 for a set of 8.8" 4.10s. Is that about right?

cyclone03
10-23-2002, 08:25 AM
For just gears thats a little high.
Shoud be about $189 for real Ford gears.
If they gave you that as an installed price,thats way low.
10 years ago the shop I worked at charged $375 installed.
I think it's only up to $425 now.

LincMercLover
10-23-2002, 08:17 PM
I'll be getting mine this Friday/Saturday. We test drove the first one that had I think 157 miles on it. Didn't go hard on her, but not easy either...:D Then, we came back a couple days later, looked over the three we had left to choose from (down from 8 just a month ago!) and picked the one with the lease miles (19 after we drove it) and best appearance.

I'm paying 27,945.57 with 4.85% financing for 60 months (A-Plan guys... don't kill me... :cool: ). She's now sitting behind the fence with SOLD in the window! Hehehe... The professional buffer they hired was working on one MM car the cleaner guy swirled to hell while we were there, and he'll be doing my car too. Hoping I get the car Friday so I can go up to Sonic for a car show.

I'm thinking take it easy till 1000 miles. Change over to synthetic. Put another 500 "mild" miles on her, then start getting into her. Has anyone seen that B&M Trick Shift for ATF? I'm wondering if that won't click the shifts a little better. Any opinions. Also thinking about putting Royal Purple in the coolant and tranny (once it warms up around here again).

On question I do have though, what's the deal with the silencer? Is pretty much everyone taking it off or what? Any advantages/disadvantages? Thanks guys!

MarauderMike
10-24-2002, 06:11 PM
When I purchased my 4.10 gears, I got them from Diversified Products here in Michigan, they ran $140 plus shipping at the time.