Kook's.........

[sd8683]

Well I have my kit, just saving money for the install, my question is what should my installer expect to run in to, I've read some posts that you have to raise one side of the motor, is this true in all cases? Are their any other things that I should buy to make the install as smooth as possible.

I know the search function, I typed in kooks headers and 20 some odd pages came up. Lol

Any help would be much appreciated, Sean

[2,4shofast]

I didnt run into any problems with my install. I didnt have to undo anything except the starter on the passenger side which is expected. I know many have had to do more but it just depends on the set you recieved, hopefully they were built right on spec and your installer will have no problems.

[Eric-Blk2004]

Who is installing them? I would imagine you have to raise the engine - I had to it on my LT1 and that SUCKED no room to move in there what so ever!!

They sound really nice though I like mine :-P

[sd8683]

Who is installing them? I would imagine you have to raise the engine - I had to it on my LT1 and that SUCKED no room to move in there what so ever!!

They sound really nice though I like mine :-P


I'm gonna have" unique exhaust" in burlington do the install, they quoted me $900 and that's with mandrel bent stainless steel with custom H-pipe, flowmaster super 44's and 4 inch delete tips, its gonna be LOUD!!! :)

[TAKEDOWN]

KOOKS... Oh you lucky duck!

[LVMarauder]

Loud is an understatement. But the 4800-6k+ kick in the pants feeling is so worth it!

[burt ragio]

Does that also include from muffler out let to tail pipe the bend over the axle ?

[Zack]

Regarding the studs in the head:
#4 upper, #3 lower, #7 upper and lower need to be shortened about 5/16".

AC compressor comes off and is moved forward for access to studs/nuts.

Starter comes out and the motor mount should be ground down (doesnt have to though) for easy starter reinstall.
Installing the very top starter bolt is a PITA. If you leave it out, you will be fine.

The new Kooks have a slot cut in the flange for the oil dipstick, so no problems there.

AND... the oil filter should come off for the install.

Best of luck.

[KillJoy]

Installing the very top starter bolt is a PITA. If you leave it out, you will be fine.


I have worked on 4 different 4.6 engines (mine included), NONE hae the top starter bolt.

;)

No worries w/o it there.

BTW - I would recommend the SW Headers over the Kooks. They practically install themselves!!!

:beer:

KillJoy

[CRUZTAKER]

I had a shop that built custom Willies (sp?) do my install.
Their exhaust guy was used to fabricating all of his parts.

He did not have to remove anything to do my install, however he did say one side was a bit challenging.

I provided them with an entire kit including mufflers.
Installation was just over 4 hours, and I paid $450 for the install.

On a side note, there were a handfull of members that experienced the steering wheel shaft being a bit too close to the header on that side and the shaft was moved/adjusted to avoid shake in the steering wheel.

The installation post you want to print and provide was BillyGman's detailed install.
It notes everything including pictures.

[jgc61sr2002]

I'm gonna have" unique exhaust" in burlington do the install, they quoted me $900 and that's with mandrel bent stainless steel with custom H-pipe, flowmaster super 44's and 4 inch delete tips, its gonna be LOUD!!! :)

If that price includes installing the Kooks, IMO that's a good deal.:D

[sd8683]

Does that also include from muffler out let to tail pipe the bend over the axle ?


It better, he put it up on the lift so he should know what he's getting into.

[sd8683]

Regarding the studs in the head:
#4 upper, #3 lower, #7 upper and lower need to be shortened about 5/16".

AC compressor comes off and is moved forward for access to studs/nuts.

Starter comes out and the motor mount should be ground down (doesnt have to though) for easy starter reinstall.
Installing the very top starter bolt is a PITA. If you leave it out, you will be fine.

The new Kooks have a slot cut in the flange for the oil dipstick, so no problems there.

AND... the oil filter should come off for the install.

Best of luck.


Good info zack! Thanks, Sean

[sd8683]

I have worked on 4 different 4.6 engines (mine included), NONE hae the top starter bolt.

;)

No worries w/o it there.

BTW - I would recommend the SW Headers over the Kooks. They practically install themselves!!!

:beer:

KillJoy

Too late, I already have the kooks, thanks for the info.

Sean

[CRUZTAKER]

Does that also include from muffler out let to tail pipe the bend over the axle ?


Why spend money changing that section?
It amounts to zero performance change at that point.

[sd8683]

I had a shop that built custom Willies (sp?) do my install.
Their exhaust guy was used to fabricating all of his parts.

He did not have to remove anything to do my install, however he did say one side was a bit challenging.

I provided them with an entire kit including mufflers.
Installation was just over 4 hours, and I paid $450 for the install.

On a side note, there were a handfull of members that experienced the steering wheel shaft being a bit too close to the header on that side and the shaft was moved/adjusted to avoid shake in the steering wheel.

The installation post you want to print and provide was BillyGman's detailed install.
It notes everything including pictures.


Thanks Barry, I think my install would have cost about the same if I wasn't going with the custom H-pipe and the mandrel piping.

[CRUZTAKER]

So you just bought KOOKS headers?

Why not the entire kit, headers, cats, x-pipe....?

It all fit together nicely without any fabrications and you only needed to pay for labor.

[sd8683]

So you just bought KOOKS headers?

Why not the entire kit, headers, cats, x-pipe....?

It all fit together nicely without any fabrications and you only needed to pay for labor.

No I bought the whole kit, I'm selling the X-pipe though, and using super 44's instead of the magnaflows.

[burt ragio]

Why spend money changing that section?
It amounts to zero performance change at that point.

They say it frees up the flow turbulance eliminates drom.

[Paul T. Casey]

No I bought the whole kit, I'm selling the X-pipe though, and using super 44's instead of the magnaflows.

What you doing with the Magnaflows? Also, on a side note, while you're doing the install, go but a starter heat shield. About $20, wraps around the starter like a blanket. Not sure if anyone ever had issues with the heat from the headers, but it was cheap insurance IMHO.

[sd8683]

What you doing with the Magnaflows? Also, on a side note, while you're doing the install, go but a starter heat shield. About $20, wraps around the starter like a blanket. Not sure if anyone ever had issues with the heat from the headers, but it was cheap insurance IMHO.


Paul I sold the mufflers about a month or so ago and I have a sale pending on the
X-pipe.

That's a good idea on the heat shield, thanks

[Paul T. Casey]

Paul I sold the mufflers about a month or so ago


Bummer, best damn mufflers I ever owned.

[Raudermaster]

Sean why aren't you letting AA do the install? lol, pricey?

[sd8683]

Sean why aren't you letting AA do the install? lol, pricey?


I've given Nick enough money, lol I was actually there today, he's gonna do my brakes

[Raudermaster]

Do them yourself and save some $$.

[sd8683]

Do them yourself and save some $$.

Yeah but.... I'm lazy and I'd end up screwing something up!

[DTRMiguel]

Is Kooks the only option for MM's?

[sd8683]

Is Kooks the only option for MM's?

No, a lot of members are using stainless works headers, they know more about them so I'll let them chime in

[Eric-Blk2004]

Who is AA?

[sd8683]

Who is AA?

Accurate automotive, their in Hyde park, they do great work

[Eric-Blk2004]

Sean why is your TC so low compared to other after market ones? Any reason just curious I was lookin at a 3k one or 3.5k not sure.

I dont knowm uch about them

[Raudermaster]

He got it and really didn't know the difference between them at the time I don't think. Even though it's a low stall, only 100 more I believe from stock, it will still lock/unlock faster since it's a PI. Not to mention he got a good deal on it.

[FordNut]

My old converter was a 2800 and it worked really good. But I kept blowing away the tires so I switched to a 2600 and that worked even better for me.

[Eric-Blk2004]

Thats cool I was curious didnt know if it had better benefits or what have you.

I actually know ZERO ZIPPO about TCs....

Dont hate lol someone explain it

[FordNut]

When cars have less power, such as a NA Marauder or even some centirugal blown cars, a high stall allows the engine to rev up to the power band while the torque converter has a higher level of slip. Once the stall speed is reached the amount of slippage decreases and it couples the power to the tranny closer to a "direct" link (not direct as in locked, but closer). If you have a whole lot of power, and you let the engine get into the power band by having a high stall speed converter, it is too much power and the tires won't hold. Most of our engines peak out in torque around 4000-5000. Whatever amount of power you're making at peak, you're making less at a lower rpm, so it can make a car faster and improve driveability to have a lower stall speed instead of higher.

[Eric-Blk2004]

So basically it lets the engine rev up to 3500 rpms before transfering it to the transmission? which makes it stay in the power band and keeps the shifts faster?

So like I would driving my car from 3.5k to 6k instead of 2k to 6k? ME slow

[FordNut]

Sort of. The amount of slip is higher up to the stall speed. It isn't absolute like an on/off switch. But in effect it gets you into the power band quicker because it is slipping at the lower rpm. Kind of like revving the engine then dumping the clutch. Too low rpm and it bogs, too high and it spins, just right and it takes off like a bat out of he**.

[Eric-Blk2004]

AAAAAAAAAAAAAH

and it will do this with ALL shifts and not just off the line?

[Dragcity]

And Now...


Back to Kooks Headers !

I am FINALLY installing mine this weekend. I have commited, as the car is now off the ground, garage is clean (sort-of) and the entire Intake is off in preparation of the Evenflow cooling mod.

Still debating whether of not I should change out the mufflers, or stay with stock. Better decide today.....

[Dragcity]

Allright, I read, and read, and read. There is no mention what to do with the oil dipstick tube on the driver side. I see no other way than removing the tube from the block. Instructions do not address it...?

I'm gonna have a Ton more questions....

[FordNut]

Cut the header flange.

[Dragcity]

Do we have a picture of that done? I am guessing I have to remove a section of the flange about 1/2" wide???? How the heck am I supposed to cut 3/8" thick stainless steel??????

ALso, I have the "Pinch Bolts off the darn steering shaft, what is the trick to get one of the connections to seperate so I can move the shaft out of the way. Nevermind, darn instructions say to Pull UP, when you have to pull down. Lets see, up i stoward the sky, down is toward the core of the earth, right.....?

I haven't broken anything yet, and I really don't want to...

[FordNut]

Hacksaw works. I don't think the flange is stainless. Look around in my gallery or maybe in the thread where I was offering a set of Kooks for sale, there should be a pic of the cut flange. I used a grinder & file to smooth off the edges after I cut it.

Pull both of the bolts all the way out, the shaft will slip right off.

[Dragcity]

Thank's FordNut. Picture is just what I needed.

[Dragcity]

RE-USE THE OLD GASKETS ??????


They friggin fell apart.

Should I use the supplied aluminum ones, or go get the OEM replacements???

What a bugger getting all those studs out. Only one nut came off the stud, the other 15, the whole stud came out. Had to use oxy/Acetalene on one. These Buffalo winers have everything corroded and rusted together. So much flaked off the nuts, I had to go to 1/2" sockets, otherwise the 13 mm slipped.

I hate Salt on the roads. Nothing is comming apart eaisily.

At least it is all apart now.

How 'bout those gaskets.?

[FordNut]

Get some OEM ones. The replacement ones will only be two pieces, one for each side. The OEM ones were 3 piece with the driver's side split in two for easy install around the dipstick tube.

[Dragcity]

I stumbled upon some of your old post Fordnut. 8 hours for bolts, you are a sado-masochist...

I now have a couple more questions.

1) Header bolts. Are the ones supplied by Kooks (marked 8.8 JH on the head) good to use. I have not heard one thing about anyone using them? All my studs came out ('cept one) as I tried to loosen the nuts. ALL the nuts are seized onto the stud, so re-using the studs is out for me. To free the nuts, I will have to use Oxy/Acetalene on each one to get them free. Plus, the upper threads are so corroded, there are no grooves.

2) Is LocTite Red a good or bad idea on the flange bolt threads? Or rather Anti-seize, which I have read about.?

3) Back to flange gaskets - Is our BEST choice FoMoCo OEM's? Or is there a better alternative.

4) Is it good practice to wrap the starter motor with insulating material? I removed mine , cleaned it, and painted it with high temp ceramic gloss black.

5) I am planning to remove a section of the driver side header flange to clear the oil dipstick and tube. I used the gasket as a template to see how far I can go. Don't need to remove that much, but at least I have a max limit. Is there a better way before I commit to this?

This is turning into a week long project for me ,as I am taking my time to remove, repair, clean, paint all the items I remove. I am even wire wheeling all the bolts I remove. Wish I could protect it from further corrosionf rom the upcomming winter. Did I mention I hate salt on the roads....?

6) Oh, and I can't get the H-Pipe out of the Mufflers. Any suggestions? Heat, cut with grinding disk,...

I haven't even tried to stuff a header in the engine compartment yet, I can see this is going to be a real peach. Man, I hope Kooks made these correctly, box did say Marauder.

[KillJoy]

My SW Headers are using OEM Gaskets, and OEM bolts....


....FWIW

:beer:

KillJoy

[Dragcity]

My SW Headers are using OEM Gaskets, and OEM bolts....


....FWIW

:beer:

KillJoy


Yeah, I am not so lucky. All my "old" stuff is un-re-usable. Not due to Kooks, but Western New York using so much friggin salt on the raods from October to March...

I'll get there, it'll just take me a little longer.

[FordNut]

I stumbled upon some of your old post Fordnut. 8 hours for bolts, you are a sado-masochist...

I now have a couple more questions.

1) Header bolts. Are the ones supplied by Kooks (marked 8.8 JH on the head) good to use. I have not heard one thing about anyone using them? All my studs came out ('cept one) as I tried to loosen the nuts. ALL the nuts are seized onto the stud, so re-using the studs is out for me. To free the nuts, I will have to use Oxy/Acetalene on each one to get them free. Plus, the upper threads are so corroded, there are no grooves.

Get some new studs & nuts. As for collector bolts, I used Mr gasket, they have self-locking nuts and don't come loose.

2) Is LocTite Red a good or bad idea on the flange bolt threads? Or rather Anti-seize, which I have read about.?

Anti-sieze and self-locking nuts (but not the ones with plastic inserts).

3) Back to flange gaskets - Is our BEST choice FoMoCo OEM's? Or is there a better alternative.

OEM, or you'll get to do it again.

4) Is it good practice to wrap the starter motor with insulating material? I removed mine , cleaned it, and painted it with high temp ceramic gloss black.

I wrapped mine, most people don't. No reports of starter problems that I know of either way.

5) I am planning to remove a section of the driver side header flange to clear the oil dipstick and tube. I used the gasket as a template to see how far I can go. Don't need to remove that much, but at least I have a max limit. Is there a better way before I commit to this?

That's the easiest/best way IMO.

This is turning into a week long project for me ,as I am taking my time to remove, repair, clean, paint all the items I remove. I am even wire wheeling all the bolts I remove. Wish I could protect it from further corrosionf rom the upcomming winter. Did I mention I hate salt on the roads....?

6) Oh, and I can't get the H-Pipe out of the Mufflers. Any suggestions? Heat, cut with grinding disk,...

Cut it with a cut-off wheel or tailpipe cutter.

I haven't even tried to stuff a header in the engine compartment yet, I can see this is going to be a real peach. Man, I hope Kooks made these correctly, box did say Marauder.

Have fun! Latest times for me I've raised the motor and removed the motor mounts, just leaving them laying in place until the headers are bolted up. Get ALL the nuts started before tightening any.


answers added...

[Dragcity]

Well, all nuts are removed from studs. I cut about 10 of the studs short as the tips were badly rusted. I need three new studs and am replacing all the nuts, as they are rusted and pretty well rounded.

New gaskets are in as of today, so I can begin re-assembly, if I can get there by 5:00.

Still need to get the threaded fitting welded into the crossover tube, and awaiting the barbed fitting for the hose to attach to. Need to spend some time getting the H pipe out of the mufflers, Oxy/Acetalene, here I come.

I am glad I am in no hurry for this to get done.

[Zack]

Well, all nuts are removed from studs. I cut about 10 of the studs short as the tips were badly rusted. I need three new studs and am replacing all the nuts, as they are rusted and pretty well rounded.

New gaskets are in as of today, so I can begin re-assembly, if I can get there by 5:00.

Still need to get the threaded fitting welded into the crossover tube, and awaiting the barbed fitting for the hose to attach to. Need to spend some time getting the H pipe out of the mufflers, Oxy/Acetalene, here I come.

I am glad I am in no hurry for this to get done.

You can get the barbed fitting at any hardware store.
3/8" NPT x 1/2"....about 3 dollars.

[FordNut]

Collector gaskets...

If yours are the 3-bolt flange, get the Mr. Gasket Ultra-Seal gaskets.

[Dragcity]

I beat the H pipe into submission last night. Oxy/Ace helped a lot. Fitting came, off to Don's Welding thanks to my lovely....

Begin assembly tonight.

Do I need to put anything on the manifold gasgets, or do they go on dry?

[FordNut]

I usually put them on dry. This time I used copper-seal spray on gasket sealer since they have been on & off several times.

[Dragcity]

I got the headers on and the X-pipe connected. Took all morning the get everyhting to line up correctly. X-pipe slid over the muffler inlet, so that is how it sits now. Will take it to a welder this week to see what magic they can do.

Had a bit of an issue with the steering shaft. It was in heavy contact with one of the primary tubes. I pulled the shaft out and ground it to make it clear by 1/16" Looks sweet, being perfectly round and well polished. I continued and polished the entire shaft and then cleared it with high temp coating. Looks good. Funny thing is, the steering shaft does so little work, but is really beefy. I have no worries about removing material here.

Igot to lower the car and have begun work on assembling the evenflow cooloing kit and getting the intaker plenum set.

Tomorrow is another day. I am so glad my 1965 has been a trooper while I have had the Marauder up on blocks. Should be on the road this week. Just need coolant and heat shield now. I noticed the insulation on the driver side was falling down and was quite frayed. I cut it and will replace with an aluminized heat shield whenever I find some. I think a couple cars caught fire due to the insulatioin coming in contact wiht the cat. Now's a good time to address it.

I thik that is it with my "issues" Zack and Fordnut have been a great help in my persuit. Thanks fellas.

Oh, there is no friggin way my starter is coming out without removing the header, or raising the engine off its mount. NOt looking forward to that job.

[FordNut]

I got the headers on and the X-pipe connected. Took all morning the get everyhting to line up correctly. X-pipe slid over the muffler inlet, so that is how it sits now. Will take it to a welder this week to see what magic they can do.

Had a bit of an issue with the steering shaft. It was in heavy contact with one of the primary tubes. I pulled the shaft out and ground it to make it clear by 1/16" Looks sweet, being perfectly round and well polished. I continued and polished the entire shaft and then cleared it with high temp coating. Looks good. Funny thing is, the steering shaft does so little work, but is really beefy. I have no worries about removing material here.

Igot to lower the car and have begun work on assembling the evenflow cooloing kit and getting the intaker plenum set.

Tomorrow is another day. I am so glad my 1965 has been a trooper while I have had the Marauder up on blocks. Should be on the road this week. Just need coolant and heat shield now. I noticed the insulation on the driver side was falling down and was quite frayed. I cut it and will replace with an aluminized heat shield whenever I find some. I think a couple cars caught fire due to the insulatioin coming in contact wiht the cat. Now's a good time to address it.

I thik that is it with my "issues" Zack and Fordnut have been a great help in my persuit. Thanks fellas.

Oh, there is no friggin way my starter is coming out without removing the header, or raising the engine off its mount. NOt looking forward to that job.


Search on here for the heat shield TSB. You should find the Ford part # for the improved heat shield. They're metallic and self-adhesive, really nice. A lot better than the aftermarket stuff you'll find.

[Dragcity]

Could not find the Heat shield TSB post, any more insight?

Last, but not least....

I went into a welding shop and had the flanges (Dennis R. supplied) welded on to the Stock mufflers and the Kooks X-pipe. All bolts up nicely, but, I need gaskets for in there.

I have searched and searched but don't come up with anything. Seems to be a 2 1/2 to 2 9/16" diameter with a pair of bolts for each that can range from 3 1/2 to 4 1/4" spread. I say 2 9/16 because the flange is just a bit larger than the X-pipe, and the weld is a bit recessed on the face of the flange.

Seems the parts stores used to have tons of these on the retail rack years ago. I went in to get some and they asked me make and model of car. I said "Custom". Did some cross referencing in the catalog, but wound up getting nothing.

Would a muffler shop be a better chioce?

Does Dennis carry these?

Even with-out the gaskets, the car is pretty damn quiet for having custom headers on it.

[Zack]

Could not find the Heat shield TSB post, any more insight?

Last, but not least....

I went into a welding shop and had the flanges (Dennis R. supplied) welded on to the Stock mufflers and the Kooks X-pipe. All bolts up nicely, but, I need gaskets for in there.

I have searched and searched but don't come up with anything. Seems to be a 2 1/2 to 2 9/16" diameter with a pair of bolts for each that can range from 3 1/2 to 4 1/4" spread. I say 2 9/16 because the flange is just a bit larger than the X-pipe, and the weld is a bit recessed on the face of the flange.

Seems the parts stores used to have tons of these on the retail rack years ago. I went in to get some and they asked me make and model of car. I said "Custom". Did some cross referencing in the catalog, but wound up getting nothing.

Would a muffler shop be a better chioce?

Does Dennis carry these?

Even with-out the gaskets, the car is pretty damn quiet for having custom headers on it.

The easiest thing to use in high tepm silicone, but if you measure the flanges compared to the stock flanges on the h pipe, and they are the same, those gaskets are available from ford.

[Dragcity]

H-Pipe is gone, replaced by Kooks X-pipe. The X-pipe is about 1/2" larger than the Muffler inlet.

Silicone would be a good temp fix, I would really like a good gasket in there though.

[Dragcity]

Found the perfect gasket at a local custom muffler shop. Put 'em on, torqued 'em down and the car is as quiet as it was before the header install. Amazing. Gaskets back there made a big difference for my car...

Still having minor issue with the steering shaft, had it all good until the exhaust was re-aligned with the mufflers and bolted up. Just a little more will do.

Another note, as I read a lot on here about re-torquing the header flange bolts to the head. I officially VERIFY what Zack said about the studs and appropriate nuts not backing out after install. I used OEM gaskets (new), OEM Studs (had to replace 3) and OEM nuts (replaced all 16) . I put Antisieze on all the threads (into the head and to accept the nuts). Tightened the best way I could given clearence. I have put about 600 miles on the car post header install. I went through the exercise of checking 12 of the nuts and none gave a bit. As such, re-torquing is not necessary.

I hope all this bable helps someone else.

[WPG_Merc]

I got my KOOKS headers/Xpipe/Magna Flow mufflers installed last Aug & it took about 12 hours with some cursing & a lot of hissy fit's. :censor:

For header bolts I used the new split lock bolts from Percyhighperformance.They have a smaller head & lock down with a small Allen key which is easier on the hands then the stock or stage 8 bolts. :rolleyes:

But now it sounds awsome & it's cool when I get the double look.
" Like What Hell Was That" :D