E Fan

[hyvltge]

So the fan died today:help: What is the best route to go with stock unit or is there something that is a plug and play that would be better CFM wise? Looking for any suggestions or input, thanks!

[Zack]

Go to the junkyard and pull one off a crown vic.

..or pay the dealer $437 for a new one :eek:

[hyvltge]

Is there any years I should look for or what range of years will fit?

[ctrlraven]

Go to the junkyard and pull one off a crown vic.

..or pay the dealer $437 for a new one :eek:

Go the junkyard route!

I was one who paid $437 for a new fan but had no choice about it really. Fan motor and assy. are all one piece so that's why it's so much unless you have a mid level Ford ESP. I would of been covered but I only had the BasicCare ESP which just covered the Fan Relay which was fine.

[Marauderjack]

www.rockauto.com

Less than $50.00 shipped!!:beer:

If you go the junk yard route.....they used the same blower since 1987??:eek:

Good Luck!!

Marauderjack:bandit:

[RoyLPita]

Is it just the motor that died or did the blade break and take out the motor? Let us know what you find. If you just need a motor, I have an extra one. The blade however, I do not have.

[hyvltge]

Well the fan still spins and looks fine, but the fan will not come on. I checked the fuse and it tested fine as well... So I just assumed the motor was dead, but we all know what happens when you assume. Any tips on tested or am I on the right track here?

RoyLPita you have a PM sir.

[RoyLPita]

PM Recieved. I'll check shipping costs tomorrow.

[hyvltge]

www.rockauto.com

Less than $50.00 shipped!!:beer:

If you go the junk yard route.....they used the same blower since 1987??:eek:


I didn't find anything that cheap and I found a fan local out of a 97, but it looks different...?

[hyvltge]

Looks like the motor is okay, if you put power directly to it, it works fine. Sooooooo I am guessing maybe the little silver piece may be dead..?

[MM_BKK]

Looks like the motor is okay, if you put power directly to it, it works fine. Sooooooo I am guessing maybe the little silver piece may be dead..?

How are you testing the "little silver" piece?
You need to apply PWM signal (Pulse Width Modulated) to the Rd/Og wire off that silver piece (fan speed controller) to get the fan running. This signal comes from the ECM and I doubt that you have a PWM signal generator.

The easiest way is to put air conditioner on and wait a few minutes.

Also, on what basis are you concluding that your fan does not work?

[hyvltge]

MM BK you are right I am not testing the little silver piece (resistor?) as I do not have a way to generate a PWM signal. We jumped the fan after that to make it run.
You said the easiest way is to run it with the A/C on and wait a few minutes, but it would not kick on yesterday under those circumstances. Any help in figuring this out is appreciated.

Looks like I am buying a whole new fan assembly tomorrow as I found a crack in mine today.

[MM_BKK]

When you put the A/C on, does at least your compressor kicked in?
If you're low on freon for some reason, the ECM won't turn on the compressor thus neither the fan.
Usually, if the compressor is engaged, the fan will run with it.

[hyvltge]

Yes compressor works and the computer kicked it off when it went into limp mode for a short bit.

Wouldn't the temp sensor kick the fan on when it got hot, at least in normal circumstances?

[Zack]

This could be as simple as a sensor in the coolant tube thats bad.
You need to get a scangauge on it and see what temp the sensor is reporting back to the computer.

[hyvltge]

But if I understand it correctly the brain gets a signal from multiple places to turn the fan on. All of them crapping out at the same time would be a winning lottery ticket... wouldn't it?

[MM_BKK]

As fas as the fan, the ECM looks at A/C status and engine coolant temp and will send an appropriate signal to the fan's speed controller to run the fan. The fan doesn't just get an on/off signal to run. The ECM will tell it how fast to run based on conditions.

There are 2 coolant sensor on the black crossover tube, the one on the driver side just run the gauge on your cluster, the one on the passenger side feeds signal to the ECM. These 2 sensors are NOT interchangable. They look the same from a distance, but close up they have a different connector, also their resistance values are different. Like Zack said, get an OBD II reader and see what the ECM reading is for the coolant temp. If you're under 200* the fan won't run.

If your A/C compressor has run for at least a minute and the fan did not kick in, the fan's siver thingy is probably bad since you're already confirmed the motor is good.

[hyvltge]

Yep, new fan and she doing much better. Thanks guys for the input/help.

[Marauderjack]

I didn't find anything that cheap and I found a fan local out of a 97, but it looks different...?

Sorry....I thought you were speaking of the HVAC fan....my mistake!!:shake:

[hyvltge]

Sorry....I thought you were speaking of the HVAC fan....my mistake!!:shake:

No problem, I appreciate the assistance!:beer:

[Richy04]

Careful diagnosing fans, my saturn had a two speed thermostatically controlled fan and it was was bad in one speed. A pulse code modulated fan is a regular dc fan, but the duty cycle is varied by the ecu. The ecu will send pulsed dc to the fan to control fan speed. The a/c will cycle on and off as it is control by the temps that are recorded by its thermo sensors. If the evap is cool enough to cool the car, the ecu will cycle the compressor on and off to keep the requested temp in the car steady. You can check the fan with a voltmeter but one with an actual needle will work better than a digital, if its turning dc on and off to control the speed (to get lower fan revs) your digital will go crazy trying to follow it up and down in most cases.