Supercharged 2003 grand Marquis

[HITEKBALANCER]

Hello all, I have a 2003 Grand Marquis with a V3 vortech and Air to Air icevex intercooler.The install is complete and running though we have not completed
our second dyno session. The first dyno session the car only made 3lbs of boost at 5500. Though these numbers were not impressive we went searching for the cause of the low boost.

There were no leaks. We had a 3.6 pulley on the Supercharger (supplied with the kit). A lot of 4.6's use this arrangement and claim to make 9 psi.

Here part of our story.

The air cleaner supplied with the kit was way too small and restrictive. Want to make more power? Flow is everything to a centrifugal compressor. Changing the air filter alone gave us 1.5 - 2 #'s boost. Call K+N says the filter will flow only 425 CFM @ 1.5 inches water. We modified the intake to draw from inside the front fender well and made a cover and opened the front to get cool air in. Huge difference with no other changes.

You can use the stock radiator fan shrouding with a centrifugal blower.
You will need to make a different intake setup but this was worth it as it keeps things a lot cooler. Yest it gets a little tight in the front.

Now only making about 4.5 psi we continued looking to find more boost.
After numerous calls to various "experts" , nobody could tell us anything that was the cause. We asked how the pulley size is determined and started reading and learning compressor curves. We found that the supercharger has a lot more capacity and decided to rev it up. We were told that a free flowing exhaust would reduce the engines ability to make boost. Oh yea we have kooks mandrel bent headers, high flow cats,x pipe, 2.5 in mandrel bent tailpipes and Stainless Works tailpipes and mufflers. This system flows real well. If you want to make a lot of power get rid of the stock marauder mufflers. If you are hell bent on keeping it quiet then live with the power loss.

We installed a 2.81 pulley, the smallest in the vortech lineup. Wow this woke it right up. Luckily the tuner gave us a tune that compensated as best he could for the anticipation that we were going to push the blower harder. This allowed us to test some things and not hurt the engine as long as we didn't hammer it too hard. Our objective became trying to push boost a hard as we could and keep the engine under 5500rpm.

Frankenstein finally came to life, but new problems arose. Compressor surge..... Belt slip..... How could this be? Well many more opinions were found everywhere. Everyone was an expert and had the answer. Yeah Right.

We finally stopped listening to others and listened to ourselves I have a couple of smart motor heads that work for me in my company. We put our heads together and argued for a few days. We concluded that the crappy little bosch boost valve was to blame. We bought the billet version and tried to "adjust" it. Unfortunately that valve is just a more expensive version of the plastic one. Figuring that I now had two valves I could not use I set out modifying the billet one. I machined the piston so it could open a little further and this reduced the surge by a little. AH HA, I cut the piston back more and surge reduced a little more,. Now the piston was so short it was jamming in the bore. Conclusion: More flow needed in the BOV.

Again consulted "experts" found a Synapse Engineering Valve. There are plenty of before and after videos on youtube showing how it eliminates compressor surge. We did a awesome install, fired it up and what's that? Surge.....Feeling defeated we consulted "experts" tried every possible vacuum line setup and still had surge. Though very slight, and a dramatic improvement. we tried to blow off to atmosphere thinking the venting of pressure into the intake was causing disturbance in the MAF. Yes this is a recirculating setup. No change.

We did observe one thing very important. The volume of the blow off air was staggering you could make an air cannon out of what comes out os this thing when the throttle slaps closed. We argued debated and everyone had no solution. I contended that the synapse valve still could not flow enough. I bought second valve and will install it Monday. What are my odds????

I will continue this later and will provide more details and photos. By for now.

[sd8683]

Did to try calling Dennis Reinhart? What part of mass are you from? I'm in Hyde park

[Zack]

2.81 pulley huh?
Good luck with that.

[Rocknthehawk]

Did to try calling Dennis Reinhart? What part of mass are you from? I'm in Hyde park

I was wondering the same thing.

kind of a rediculous first post IMO.

[jgc61sr2002]

Welcomr aboard.:D:welcome1:

[MM_BKK]

2.81 pulley huh?
Good luck with that.

Yeah, let us know if you get any major belt slip. Look around the timing cover for black belt dust.


I had this bypass valve on my set up when I had Procharger D1SC pushing 13 lbs of boost with absolutely no surges at all.

http://i363.photobucket.com/albums/oo74/pwanagosit/ATI_bypass.jpg

[HITEKBALANCER]

Hello again, I post when I have time. It's Monday morning. I'm going out to the shop to install the second bypass valve. Thanks for the "good luck with that". If I am ridiculous back up your statements with facts. We are here to help each other. Remember I am pushing this motor as hard as I can below 5500. There is a big difference between 6500 and 5500. Compressor efficiency changes as the speed goes up. I am shooting for max RPM of the supercharger at 5500. The max compressor efficiency will be somewhere around 4500 I have done the calculations and know the speed of the s/c. Once back on the dyno we will back down the pulley size to get what we want.

Thanks for the "good luck with that". Remember ,the 2V sohc can run more boost and timing as it has lower static compression ratio and is less efficient than a 4V dohc. In other words, in a sohc, it takes more pressure against the valves to get as much air in as a dohc.

Yes the 2.8 pulley slips a little. We have remedied that. We bought an overdrive damper from Innovatorswest.com. It's a 10% od. This allows us to make the s/c pulley
larger and give it more contact area while still spinning it hard.

The synapse valve probably does not flow quite as much as the procharger valve. We bought the synapse because our local dyno guy reccommended it over the P.C. unit.

Those who think this is "ridiculous" has not run a setup the same as this. They look for max power at 6500. Sorry, I feel the power above 5500 is not relevant on the street.

You cant compare boost in any given car unless you are comparing identical setups.

By the way it was a 2.6 not a 2.8. The 2.6 would spin the s/c too fast. We think we will end up with a 2.81 with the 10% od lower pulley. If this makes too much boost at 5500 we may rev limit to 5250. Our effort is to make power at lower revs. This also makes blow off surge more difficult. The s/c is making more flow at lower engine rpms than a setup designed to make peak power at 6500. The amount of air you need to blow off is greater because we are spinning the s/c faster than most. This makes surge problems harder to deal with.

One last point for now. I find it curious that the blow off valves (even the big ones) are used on 4 cylinder engines. I also see the v3 s trim s/c used on 6 cylinder engines. Ours have how many cylinders?

I'm confident the dyno numbers will be impressive for a sohc limited to 5500.

I'll keep the post going.....

[FordNut]

I had a procharer big red racing bypass. It can be setup as a blowoff instead if you're running a blow-thru MAF. It will for sure eliminate any surge.

[MM_BKK]

A "Blow off valve" is NOT exactly the same as a "Boost bypass valve".
Blow off valve are mostly used in Turbocharged application.

How do you have your MAF set up? Are you sucking through or blow through?

[HITEKBALANCER]

Sorry for the confusion. It sucks through the maf. I have the boost bypass blowing at the compressor wheel inlet the maf is about 24" before the compressor. Sorry about the terminology blunder.

[Zack]

Although I give anyone credit for working on their own car, it seems you have more 'book smarts' than actual hands on knowledge.

Good luck.
And BTW, saying power between 5500 and 6500 is not useable is just ignorant.

[MM_BKK]

And BTW, saying power between 5500 and 6500 is not useable is just ignorant.

+1
You're leaving a lot of horses back at the stable.

SBF 302 with OHV were making lots of power up near 7000 RPM.

[HITEKBALANCER]

Zack has an interesting choice of words. So you feel it ignorant to try to make more power at low rpm versus power you can boast about here on this forum. Yes I am willing to leave some of the race horses in the stable. I'm choosing the right horse for the job.

Zack, I'm surprised at your attitude being a supporting vendor. Is this how you feel about a potential customer? How much time do you spend at 6500? I know I would have to use the sidewalk if I revved it like that. Also, these engines have a cast crank
and don't live long at that rpm.

What do you think about my claim that a 2v sohc can run more timing and boost without detonation?

[Zack]

Zack has an interesting choice of words. So you feel it ignorant to try to make more power at low rpm versus power you can boast about here on this forum. Yes I am willing to leave some of the race horses in the stable. I'm choosing the right horse for the job.

Zack, I'm surprised at your attitude being a supporting vendor. Is this how you feel about a potential customer? How much time do you spend at 6500? I know I would have to use the sidewalk if I revved it like that. Also, these engines have a cast crank
and don't live long at that rpm.

What do you think about my claim that a 2v sohc can run more timing and boost without detonation?

Dude, you have 4 posts, are doing things backwards from the norm, havent submitted any pictures of the project and have a 2V Grand Marquis.

Forgive all of us for being a little leery of your methods.

[Rocknthehawk]

I think the speed limit is usually about 30 on the "street". It doesn't matter if you're making 1000 horsepower at 5500 or 150 at 6500. It doesn't have a practical use unless you're using it to scoot down the track.

Zack comes off as a douche. We've all disliked him at one point or another, but more often than not, he knows what he is talking about.

[Zack]

I think the speed limit is usually about 30 on the "street". It doesn't matter if you're making 1000 horsepower at 5500 or 150 at 6500. It doesn't have a practical use unless you're using it to scoot down the track.

Zack comes off as a douche. We've all disliked him at one point or another, but more often than not, he knows what he is talking about.



^^^^What he said :P

[Zack]

Sounds like you want a roots blower, but ended up with a Vortech.

Heres what I would have done:

Throw the S trim away and upgrade to a JT Trim. It will make instant boost and if you size the pulley properly, it will make 10psi at 6500rpm's. At the low rpm's it will make a minimum of 5-6 psi immediately.

OR.....
Buy this kit from these guys:
http://shop.torktech.com/

[HITEKBALANCER]

I'm not an advocate of the "norm". Instead of changing the pulley 3 times I went for it. We are putting in the second synapse valve and going back to the 2.81 pulley with the 10% overdrive on the crank. We have already run this but had surge issues. The pressure at the outlet of the compressor is huge like 17+ psi but that does not make it to the manifold. We are using 3 boost gages
and are not using book knowledge. This is hands on. We read at the outlet of the s/c, before the throttle body, and in the manifold. Those numbers will not make much sense those who are used to
"top of engine" blowers. as there is really only one number that matters on "top of engine" units. I will submit pictures when I get a chance but for some reason I spending more time defending myself from some contributors.

[Zack]

If you are making 17psi at the blower, then you are sending a minimum of 15psi to the engine.
Granted you said you will shift at 5500, which probably equates to 10-12psi.

But.... by letting the engine wind up to full rpm (6300-6500), means after the shift, it will be in its sweet spot (rpm wise) and ultimately be faster.
I dont care what pulley is on an S-trim, when those rpm's fall, the boost will fall as well. With a T or JT however, this will not be the case.

[HITEKBALANCER]

Thanks for the support via personal messages. I hope to impress ZACK with the numbers later.

I can handle all the abuse one can dish out. I deal with facts and will go head to head with anyone as long as they present facts and data along with the rhetoric. I have and Bachelor in manufacturing engineering and own an extensively equipped Industrial Balancing company with machining and welding capability.

My purpose here is to give and get information. If someone needs a verbal spanking I will certainly oblige.

I will have the second valve in soon and will post more after I get more results backed up with facts.

[Zack]

Thanks for the support via personal messages. I hope to impress ZACK with the numbers later.

I can handle all the abuse one can dish out. I deal with facts and will go head to head with anyone as long as they present facts and data along with the rhetoric. I have and Bachelor in manufacturing engineering and own an extensively equipped Industrial Balancing company with machining and welding capability.

My purpose here is to give and get information. If someone needs a verbal spanking I will certainly oblige.

I will have the second valve in soon and will post more after I get more results backed up with facts.


Jeez, take a Midol. Are you getting PM's saying to ignore me? WOW!

Anyway, YOU are on the offensive.
Thats great you have a bachelors degree and a company, bravo!

Take a few steps back and see it from our POV...
1 You are a new member
2 You have a Grand Marquis
3 You are doing things backasswards from everything we know is right, without an initial explanation as to how or why.
4 Your credibility is not established here yet.

Im sure you can relate to this. ;)

[Dennis Reinhart]

There was a time when we had camaraderie, and friendship, and if any new member came to this site had a any kind of car problems, we cordially helped or guided them to solve there problem or guided them to some one who could, and we did not call them DUDE. Over the last two weeks I have seen two new members greeted far less than what I just described, can some one tell me what is happening here, this will not take long to get out, for sure some thing has changed here.

[Zack]

There was a time when we had camaraderie, and friendship, and if any one had a any kind of car problems, we cordially helped or guided them to solve there problem or guided them to some one who could, over the last two weeks I have two new members greeted this way, this will not take long to get out, for sure some thing has changed here.

Unless you have something constructive to add in helping this guy, your post is pointless.

You talk about loss of friendship Dennis, you are right..
You could have mended OURS with a simple "Im Sorry. I was wrong for going on a tyraid because you have every right to sell mail order tunes for $25. Afterall you are not violating any MAP pricing because it is YOUR product, not a physical item SCT had manufactured"

[O's Fan Rich]

I

Zack comes off as a douche. We've all disliked him at one point or another, but more often than not, he knows what he is talking about.

I haver NEVER heard the "Zack thing" described so succinctly.
Kudos!:high5:

And yes, as a noob here you need to understand the :shake: stuff. Show us what you got. We look forward to it.

[HITEKBALANCER]

Can you tell me what is backasswards? We made a progression from low boost to more boost. The only thing unusual about this install is we are trying to make power at lower revs. If you have constructive comments about what this means than I welcome them. I am not trying to gain credibility with anyone. But I know who is. Facts ZACK. Less Bull****. Don't include others when you say "our" point of view. it is clearly your own.

[Zack]

Can you tell me what is backasswards? We made a progression from low boost to more boost. The only thing unusual about this install is we are trying to make power at lower revs. If you have constructive comments about what this means than I welcome them. I am not trying to gain credibility with anyone. But I know who is. Facts ZACK. Less Bull****. Don't include others when you say "our" point of view. it is clearly your own.

You say WE are trying to make more power. Are you a shop??
Do you know the limitations of a stock 2V engine with junk pistons and powdered metal rods?

You need to stop interpreting my posts as negative. How bout explaining your goal in a little more detail and we will go from there.
Im all about helping out if I can, just ask ANYONE here.

[KillJoy]

This Thread is interesting... on SOOOOOO many levels.

:D

First, HITEKBALANCER... WELCOME! This place has a LOT of valuable knowledge of the Mercury Marauder, with a little bit thrown in for the other Panther Platforms.

B - You are going against all "known" and "accepted" Boost thought. You bought a Snail to build power down low. These units were NOT designed to do this. A Roots, however, IS. So like said above..... what you are doing is out of the norm, if not to all, at least to US (the website as a whole).

III - You are new here (8 posts I believe). No one knows who you are, what you can do or even what insane asylum you were freed from..... so.... things need taken w/ a grain of salt. Once you are known, and know the Members here, things will flow more smoothly. Each of us have our qwerks, and you just gotta know how to take the things people say in the was it was intended, not how you read it.

Good Luck!

:beer:

KillJoy

[HITEKBALANCER]

Some Facts for Zack. From sullivanperformance.com "tech"





Connecting Rods
With the exception of the 2000 Cobra R (Carillo) and the 2003-2004 Cobra's (Manley H-beam), all modular engines have come with sinter forged powdered metal connecting rods. There has been a lot written about these much maligned rods. The truth is, they are fine for use in mild performance applications. If a blower, nitrous or turbo is in your future, you would be doing yourself a favor by upgrading your rods to forged steel like Manley's H-beam rods.
There are several versions of the factory rods. The Windsor engines use full floating pins where the Romeo based engines use pressed pins. The 4.6L SOHC passenger car engines have the weakest rods, the Windsor (or Triton) engines use a larger connecting rod that is stronger than the passenger car engines. The 4.6L DOHC engines use the same rods as are used in the Windsor's. The strongest factory style rods to date are the rods used in the supercharged 5.4L lightning. These rods have a larger big end than the standard modular rods.
4.6L Rod length = 5.93"
5.4L Rod length = 6.65"


Crankshafts
DOHC & SOHC Cranks will interchange. Some blocks may require minor block modifications for counter weight clearance when installing a forged crank in a block that previously contained a cast crank. The
most common cranks for 4.6L engines are the nodular cast iron units. They come in both 6 & 8 bolt flywheel configurations. Note that just because a crank has 8 bolts does not mean that it is forged. The
2-valve Windsor engines use both a 6 & 8 bolt flywheel, the Romeo engines use 6. The only factory forged cranks available for the 4.6L DOHC engines are installed in the Cobra. These cranks are manufactured by Gertach in Germany for Ford. Ford Racing Performance Parts (FRPP) offers these cranks for sale under part # M-6303-D46 for 425.00. The correct 8-bolt flywheel for this crank is sold under part # M-6375-G46
for 250.00. This is a billet steel flywheel.
The cranks in the 5.4L DOHC and SOHC engines are also available in cast or forged. Most of the cranks are forged, but not all. The only way to know for certain is to look at the parting line. Thick line for forged, thin line for cast.
All 6.8L V10 engines have forged crankshafts
Pistons
The pistons used in modular engines are all of the hypereutectic style, with a few exceptions. These exceptions are the supercharged Lightning and Cobra. This should tell you something about the durability
of the factory pistons. If Ford decided (at considerable expense) that it was necessary to upgrade to forged pistons for forced induction maybe you should heed their advice. We have seen forced induction cars run
on factory pistons and produce good horsepower, the question is, for how long? If you are building a forced induction engine you need to understand that the factory pistons do have their limitations and when you reach these limitations, it's not pretty.
When building a modular engine for mild performance applications, the stock pistons will hold up fine.

Most of the pistons used in modular engines are dished. Pistons are interchangeable between the DOHC and SOHC, 6.8L, 5.4L & 4.6L engines. Obviously, you will need to check piston to valve clearance. Following are the dish volumes used in these engines:

[Rocknthehawk]

I haver NEVER heard the "Zack thing" described so succinctly.
Kudos!:high5:

And yes, as a noob here you need to understand the :shake: stuff. Show us what you got. We look forward to it.

I'm still shocked at myself for standing up for Zack.

a third time, where in Mass are you? There's a large group of MM owners in the area, and I'm sure some of us would love to check the car out.

[HITEKBALANCER]

Lunenburg, MA

[Rocknthehawk]

Lunenburg, MA

For real? you're like 5 minutes from Hot-Rauder and I. Along with DaveSVT. I bought my truck from RC Motors in Lunenburg.

If there's every a chance of letting us come check out the car, I'd love to.

[Zack]

Some Facts for Zack. From sullivanperformance.com "tech"



Yeah, I knew all that.
Please stop addressing me personally unless we are in a PM, thanks. :)

[MM03MOK]

Howz about we let our new member share his info without jumping all over him. Attitude is everything. We want to help him and learn from him, but that won't happen if you run him off in his first thread! Ease up! Remember when you were a n00bie too?

[HITEKBALANCER]

I verifeid with sullivan performance. The Marauder engines have hypereutectic pisons, sintered rods, and a cast crank. My 2v is the same. The 4V marauder heads flow better. The 2V pistons have more dish hence less static compression. We realize a roots would have been better. Our decision to push the boost down low was to get more poop out of the engine with the centrifugal blower that we now own. We decided to go forward even though it may not have been the optimum unit for the job. Who knows we all may learn something new. And "WE" are HITEKBALANCING.com we are not a "shop" for superchargers. We are a group of enthusiasts with enough tools to be dangerous and have more fun.

[Blackmobile]

What type trim Vortech do you have, and what is the diameter of the new crank, if you don't mind me asking?

Ed

[MM_BKK]

Can you ask your dyno guy what he has against the Procharger bypass valve? I had that valve on my D1SC head unit and this thing puts out serious air and with a max boost rating of 30 psi and there was never a hint of any surges. This valve has been used on 100's and 100's of centrifugal set up with no problems with surges.

I just thought it may seems to make more sense to use one valve to keep things simple rather hooking up 2 Synapse valves and not mention you would save some money for other parts? I looked up the spec on Synapse valve and it looks like its main application is for blow off and not bypass.

[HITEKBALANCER]

I'm not sure what he has against the P/C valve. I have to make things work with him or find another tuner. I think these guys can tune fairly well. They have a nice mustang eddy current dyno. Yes it would simpler to run one valve but things tend to evolve in ways that are not always optimal the first time around. The second valve was a a step we feel confident will solve our issues.

So we all are clear. The 2V motor has the same rods, crank and pistons as most 4V motors. Only some cobras had some special parts. The pistons are the same material and are dished so as to lower the static compression. It's funny that many have told me this engine cant take what the 4V motor can. Punishment is all about the bottom ends capability. HP is all about flow. I have what I have and will make the best of it.
The crank pulley/ harmonic damper can be found at inovatorswest.com. It overdrives 10%. Stock dia is about 6.4in The OD unit is about 7.35 inches. If anyone wants to meet us go to my website www.hitekbalancing.com there are contacts and directions there. Feel free to call us. KENT

[HITEKBALANCER]

Install of second valve is complete. No surge. We need to clean up some of the vac lines and tie some **** down. Seems like we are in the 10-12 psi range based on the run we just made. Besides all that the car runs like it came off the showroom floor very smooth accept it rips. No surge or stalling. My conclusion is that if you have surge, your bypass system needs more flow. Centrifugal compressors with air to air coolers store a lot of air and with a MAF you have to mange the pressure. When it's cleaned up I will photo it and post. I am making a dyno appointment asap.

[HITEKBALANCER]

Oh, Vortech V3 with s trim.

[2ndMDRebel]

I guess you missed this thread over yonder where the Crown Vics and Grand Marquis play... Roots for 2v's... (http://www.crownvic.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1557278#Post1557278)

Looks like its the perfect fit for your project as you wanted low end power and a 5500 rpm limit. Just an option and an interesting read nonetheless.

Interesting build you have going but as has been stated earlier there are already centrifugal kits out there in air-water and air-air flavors from Reinhart that would happily just bolt right up to your 2v. You are trial and erroring your way through well-travelled and documented territory, please forgive us as a community if we kind of respond with a what's he thinking attitude.

Welcome aboard and post some pics!! :banana2:

[FordNut]

I totally understand your approach. I've changed direction several times with my buildup, but at one time I was working on a similar approach. Build boost quick, but not immediately (as with roots), then maintain boost at a steady level until redline. Never got it setup exactly to my liking before changing directions, but it was a great learning experience.

[O's Fan Rich]

I totally understand your approach. I've changed direction several times with my buildup, but at one time I was working on a similar approach. Build boost quick, but not immediately (as with roots), then maintain boost at a steady level until redline. Never got it setup exactly to my liking before changing directions, but it was a great learning experience.

I tried that approach with sex, too.
Still trying..... great learning experience.

just trying to lighten it it...

[KillJoy]

I tried that approach with sex, too.
Still trying..... great learning experience.


WOW!

:eek:

Well..... practice DOES make perfect!

:D

KillJoy

[Zack]

WOW!

:eek:

Well..... practice DOES make perfect!

:D

KillJoy

In your case, practice made an STD :eek:

[KillJoy]

In your case, practice made an STD :eek:

Yup..... Babies are the longest lasting STD of all.

:rolleyes:

KillJoy

[Blackmobile]

I'm not sure what he has against the P/C valve. I have to make things work with him or find another tuner. I think these guys can tune fairly well. They have a nice mustang eddy current dyno. Yes it would simpler to run one valve but things tend to evolve in ways that are not always optimal the first time around. The second valve was a a step we feel confident will solve our issues.

So we all are clear. The 2V motor has the same rods, crank and pistons as most 4V motors. Only some cobras had some special parts. The pistons are the same material and are dished so as to lower the static compression. It's funny that many have told me this engine cant take what the 4V motor can. Punishment is all about the bottom ends capability. HP is all about flow. I have what I have and will make the best of it.
The crank pulley/ harmonic damper can be found at inovatorswest.com. It overdrives 10%. Stock dia is about 6.4in The OD unit is about 7.35 inches. If anyone wants to meet us go to my website www.hitekbalancing.com (http://www.hitekbalancing.com) there are contacts and directions there. Feel free to call us. KENT


Oh, Vortech V3 with s trim.

Looks like you are JUST under absolute Max Shaft speed for that head unit, at 5500 rpms, unless V3 are inherently different from V2s.

[Blackmobile]

I've ran across a site that sports a pulley that might help your belt slip issue. It's a Reichard Racing Ultra grip

http://www.need-4-speed.com/reichardracing.htm

It's a slotted pulley setup, which appears to have helped others with the same problem.

http://www.reichardracing.com/images/large/Reichard_composit2.jpg

[Zack]

Reichard pulleys will eat a Vortech blower belt so fast your head will spin, ask me how I know.

[Blackmobile]

Reichard pulleys will eat a Vortech blower belt so fast your head will spin, ask me how I know.

OK, I'll go for that, but it sure looks sweet for going down to 2.8 and staying 6 ribbed. I looked around and didn't see any negative press and thought that was a little odd.

[Zack]

OK, I'll go for that, but it sure looks sweet for going down to 2.8 and staying 6 ribbed. I looked around and didn't see any negative press and thought that was a little odd.

If you are looking to make big power now, you should have switched to the 98 Cobra timing cover and associated bracket.
Much better setup and you can easily run 16-18psi with 6 ribs.

If you are going to stay with the 6 rib and stock MM timing cover, buy the 2.8 vortech pulley and make a custom idler between the alternator and PS pulley.

[HITEKBALANCER]

Wow, now we have information coming out. I don't know what amount of slip we will actually have. When we get to the dyno and conclude how much boost we will finally run we can decide if the slip is a problem. We have an idler pulley that gives us almost full wrap around the s/c pulley. We are considering making a screw stop for the tensioner so it cant go slack under load. I have not seen any aftermarket tensioners for GT's as this tensioner is different from the 4V arrangement.

I agree that the serrated pulleys may have issues with eating belts.

The other possibility is that if I channge the trim at some point I will make a jackshaft and Run a cogged belt off the crank and cease driving the s/c with the 6 rib.

We will go to the dyno with what we have and see if we can hurt it.

[HITEKBALANCER]

A few specs. 2003 2V 4.6

Kooks headers, kooks cats x pipe, stainlessworks.com triple chamber muffs and stainlessworks.com tails and tips. Vortech v3, 2.81 pulley. Overdrive 7.38 Innovatorswest.com damper and pullley unit (real nice part) . 3.55 gears and ford motorsport limited slip. 2005-2007 mustang takeoffs from ebay, pirelli p zeros 235/55-17s, need more in rear, sending wheels for widening. Will buy nitto drags and get a time. Just give me some Time. Havin a blast!!!!!

Anyone done a 5 speed???

[MM_BKK]

I'm not sure about the 5 speed , but I believe there's at least one member here that has done the 6 speed conversion.

If you can get pass the flywheel/pressure plate, cluth pedal, 5 or 6 speed trans shouldn't be a problem. Although making the speedometer work again might take a little work.

[Motorhead350]

HITEKBALANCER welcome to the site. You're going to have lots of fun with this car as if you already haven't. This place is full of great information and we are all happy to help. Dennis sells lots of great parts and I have a few of his on my car that gave me a huge difference. As for Zack, he means well. Seems like you guys kinda came off on the wrong sandle or something, but believe me he is doing nothing, but trying to help you. Heck I drove him so mad one day he punched me in the head.... HARD! But I got over it and I was totally at fault. So wait until you get to know me! ;)

Well if you want to know anything about my car just send me a PM. I can tell you all about what worked for me and what didn't.

[Blackmobile]

Reichard pulleys will eat a Vortech blower belt so fast your head will spin, ask me how I know.


If you are looking to make big power now, you should have switched to the 98 Cobra timing cover and associated bracket.
Much better setup and you can easily run 16-18psi with 6 ribs.

If you are going to stay with the 6 rib and stock MM timing cover, buy the 2.8 vortech pulley and make a custom idler between the alternator and PS pulley.

I'm still under 100 mi. into my break in period, but I was just looking down that avenue of maximum boost and an T trim impeller speed under efficiency Max at 50,000 rpm. shaft speed.

[Zack]

I'm still under 100 mi. into my break in period, but I was just looking down that avenue of maximum boost and an T trim impeller speed under efficiency Max at 50,000 rpm. shaft speed.

Go get a tune NOW and start beating that thing.

I Hope you are not babying the engine

[Blackmobile]

At the moment I'm tracking down a fluid leak in the AC compressor area. Once that's buttoned up I'll begin to put some boost to it. As for the tune, I've been assure that the tune on the MM is sufficiant to break in the engine. Once the rings have seated after this period, I'll then get it retuned to the new engine. I'm quite sure the engine will support the tune from the old engine for street duty.

[Jolly Roger]

Reichard pulleys will eat a Vortech blower belt so fast your head will spin, ask me how I know.

Only after waiting about 2 monthes to get one.
Ask me how I know.:(