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View Full Version : Anti-Seize Lubricant On Wheels



Marylandrauder
10-24-2008, 03:59 PM
My Dad and I were going to paint our caliper's on our Marauder's. We could not get the wheels off, it was as if the rims had bonded to the rotors.

How do you guys get your rims off, I tried hitting the back of the tire with a rubber mallet and the wheels would not budge.

When you get your rims off do you use anti-seize compound to keep the aluminum wheels from getting stuck on the rotors. Is this happening because of disimiliar metals, meaning the wheels are aluminum and the rotors are steel, any help would be appreciated.

Blk Mamba
10-24-2008, 04:04 PM
#1 I got lucky.
#2 Yes
#3 Yes
#4 I aint taken em off for ya.

gdmjoe
10-24-2008, 04:18 PM
Using a B(ger)FH of rubber variety is the safe and not destructive way to loosen the wheels.

*Don't recommend it, but you could loosen the lug nuts a bit, put the vehicle in gear, and move the vehicle forward and reverse for a short distance.

The rims are bonded to the rotor and/or axle flanges, not only on the flat mating surfaces but especially around the hub hole of the rims.

As you mentioned it is caused by the electrolysis of the aluminum rims and the steel flange surfaces. It is further promoted at the hub holes due moisture infiltration. *Center cap is not water tight.

Before remounting the wheels, apply anti-seize to the rotor wheel mounting surfaces as well as around the axle hub flanges.

Be sure to also hit the wheel studs with anti-seize.

*The SILVER on the flanges and studs is anti-seize. Notice the GREEN rear axle center(s) ... evidence of having the axle TSB performed.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/2206000-2206999/2206612_49_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/2206000-2206999/2206612_51_full.jpg

BUCKWHEAT
10-24-2008, 05:02 PM
I never have the problem because I frequently rotate the tires, from factory summer wheels to winter wheels & in the rear, from drag wheels & tires to streets. Also, my tires never last long enough for the wheels to weld themselves on. Solution, drive more and buy lots of wheels.

Paul T. Casey
10-24-2008, 05:17 PM
Listen to Joe. I used antiseize on the studs, and on the hubs. I also power wire brush the hubs about once a year. On the wheels themselves, I scotch-brite the mating surfaces if they're rusty, and wax them regularly. About once a month in the nice weather.

CRUZTAKER
10-24-2008, 06:22 PM
*(I) Don't recommend it, but you could loosen the lug nuts a bit, put the vehicle in gear, and move the vehicle forward and reverse for a short distance.

Well then I will. :P

I have helped two local members and this was the only way to break then loose. Quick, easy, and painless.;)

As for keeping them from siezing...
Being a telecom-er I have jars of a product called no-ox that we use on high current power connections.
It is about 4x thick as vaseline and resists anything wet.

Vortech347
10-25-2008, 09:16 AM
Banging on the tire won't help, it soaks up the impact. I had this same issue when powdercoating on my wheels mated them to the hubs on my fox.

Use a block of wood thats just big enough to fit across the wheel under the car. Smack it with a hammer a few times and keep rolling the tire 1/4" turn then smacking it again. YOU MUST turn the tire otherwise you're not gona get anywhere. Just be careful not to bend the wheel.

TAKEDOWN
10-26-2008, 02:35 AM
Wow gdmjoe... your car is clean.

RF Overlord
10-26-2008, 03:43 AM
Be sure to also hit the wheel studs with anti-seize.Interesting...I was told NEVER put anti-seize on the studs, only on the rotor hub area.

gdmjoe
10-26-2008, 07:03 AM
RF Overlord - Interesting...I was told NEVER put anti-seize on the studs, only on the rotor hub area.
Have been using anti-seize on the studs for over 25 years, and prior to that a film of ATF.

The studs in the axles for the bearing TSB came from FoMoCo with anti-seize, and I've seen several newer vehicles in the repair shop that have it applied by the manufacturer.

Most people don't know how to apply anti-seize; they slather it on with the premise that more is betterer. Only a thin film applied to the threads is necessary.

*More of a rust belt, NorEast, etc. issue of the lug nuts fusing to the studs as the result of road-salt rusting. Something that I never worried about in NC :D

larryo340
10-26-2008, 07:07 AM
Interesting...I was told NEVER put anti-seize on the studs, only on the rotor hub area.
^^^^^+1

Tirerack.com:

Instructions Wheel Lug Torquing
Wheel Lug Torquing

IMPORTANT!
Proper installation requires that the wheel lug torque be set to the recommended specification for your vehicle. Sometimes these torque specifications can be found in your vehicle's owner's manual, however more often than not you will need to refer to your vehicle's shop manual or obtain them from your vehicle dealer/service provider.
Unless specifically stated otherwise, wheel lug torque specifications are for clean and dry threads (no lubricant) that are free of dirt, grit, etc. Applying oil, grease or anti-seize lubricants to the threads will result in inaccurate torque values that over tighten the wheels.
A thread chaser or tap should be used to remove any burrs or obstructions of the threads allowing the lug hardware to be turned by hand until it meets the wheel's lug seat. Once lugs are snugged down, finish tightening them with an accurate torque wrench. Use the appropriate crisscross sequence (shown below) for the number of wheel lugs on your vehicle until all have reached their proper torque value. Be careful because if you over torque a wheel, you can strip a lug nut or hub, stretch or break a stud or bolt, and cause the wheel, brake rotor and/or brake drum to distort.

gdmjoe
10-26-2008, 07:15 AM
takedown - Wow gdmjoe... your car is clean.
Thanks!

Those pic's were after some undercarriage detailing in preparation for a car show. *It's a non-winter, daily-driver with ~90,000 miles.

gdmjoe
10-26-2008, 08:12 AM
[font=arial black]larryo340] ... Tirerack.com: Instructions Wheel Lug Torquing Wheel Lug Torquing ...
Torque spec' ..... 95flb - 2003 FoMoCo shop manual
75-85flb - based upon the wheel stud diameter (½")
90-100flb - what I remember the old FoMoCo spec' to be. So ya got a range. What's served me for decades ... thin film of anti-seize and torque 'em to 90flb.

And Yes I'd had my share of vehicles over the years and several had 200,000+ miles with no wheels falling-off due to improper torque of the lug nuts. :cool: