Needs a burp, thermostat, EATC?

[blackf0rk]

Can someone help me with this situation? I saw a few people with somewhat the same situation as this, though I didn't find where they posted their results, or if they fixed it.

Problem: Won't blow heat.

1. Coolant level in the reservoir appears to be spot on.
2. When the car is at normal operating temperature, the temp gauge on the dash is where it usually is, almost in the middle, a little below.
3. Vents, doors, A/C work.

If it's an air-pocket in the system or the thermostat is bad, will my temp gauge raise? I am assuming no. So then it has to be a bad EATC?

[Go Mifuni]

Can someone help me with this situation? I saw a few people with somewhat the same situation as this, though I didn't find where they posted their results, or if they fixed it.

Problem: Won't blow heat.

1. Coolant level in the reservoir appears to be spot on.
2. When the car is at normal operating temperature, the temp gauge on the dash is where it usually is, almost in the middle, a little below.
3. Vents, doors, A/C work.

If it's an air-pocket in the system or the thermostat is bad, will my temp gauge raise? I am assuming no. So then it has to be a bad EATC?

Are you getting any air at all? If it's the EATC, you will get air but usually only out of the defrost.

[blackf0rk]

I am getting air. I am able to switch from vent, to defrost, to floor and it blows just fine; the fan adjust is working too. The air is just not hot.

[Egon Spengler]

Probably just need a burp... I did it to mine after going all last winter without heat and it worked fine... took me about 15 minutes... works great now

[Bradley G]

I just experienced that behavior from the Grand Monkey LSE .Turned out to be a blend door.
The atc diagnosed it with a display error code
Read this; http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=33373&highlight=atc+test

I am getting air. I am able to switch from vent, to defrost, to floor and it blows just fine; the fan adjust is working too. The air is just not hot.

[Go Mifuni]

I am getting air. I am able to switch from vent, to defrost, to floor and it blows just fine; the fan adjust is working too. The air is just not hot.

Could need a "burp". Fill it at the cross pipe. This is the highest spot in the system. Mine was doing the same thing a few years ago. No problems since.
I can't remember the exact sequence, but I'm sure if you do a search you'll find it.

[blackf0rk]

Ok, well I'm going to start off by opening up the crossover tube and fill it up; see if that helps anything. However, I run into another question:

What kind of coolant am I supposed to be using? I read in a thread on here a few days ago about a dealer filling someone's Marauder up with the 'red stuff' and that it was wrong and he had to have the system flushed and refilled with the gold stuff. Is this true? Because mine currently has the red stuff in it, and has had the red stuff in it ever since I got the vehicle.

Should I flush the coolant and be done with it?

[Jolly Roger]

A little anti-sieze on the threads of the cap to the crossover tube would not be amiss for next time this might happen.
Ask me how I know.;)

[BODYMAN]

grand marquis have always had a problem with a blend door acuator sticking this could also be the problem? just a thought i have seen it on quite a few.;)

Todd

[ctrlraven]

Ok, well I'm going to start off by opening up the crossover tube and fill it up; see if that helps anything. However, I run into another question:

What kind of coolant am I supposed to be using? I read in a thread on here a few days ago about a dealer filling someone's Marauder up with the 'red stuff' and that it was wrong and he had to have the system flushed and refilled with the gold stuff. Is this true? Because mine currently has the red stuff in it, and has had the red stuff in it ever since I got the vehicle.

Should I flush the coolant and be done with it?

2003 uses regular Green coolant, 2004 uses Gold color coolant.

[Bradley G]

Yes, Keeping the engine coolant and the innercooler coolant differerent colors, you will be able to discern which system is leaking by its' color.
Ok, well I'm going to start off by opening up the crossover tube and fill it up; see if that helps anything. However, I run into another question:

What kind of coolant am I supposed to be using? I read in a thread on here a few days ago about a dealer filling someone's Marauder up with the 'red stuff' and that it was wrong and he had to have the system flushed and refilled with the gold stuff. Is this true? Because mine currently has the red stuff in it, and has had the red stuff in it ever since I got the vehicle.

Should I flush the coolant and be done with it?

[ctrlraven]

Groups of Coolants
Let us begin to sort this out by pointing out the three principal groups of coolants. We will not define every possible coolant and its corresponding color. Indeed, yellow coolants may have very different compositions. A blue coolant may have the same formula as a red coolant. The three basic divisions include the following:

Group 1 - the original glycol-based “green” antifreeze we are all familiar with. They have quick-acting silicate and phosphate corrosion inhibitors that do a good job inhibiting corrosion on both iron and aluminum surfaces. This familiar green liquid has proven its worth in all the temperature extremes of North America. Virtually any vehicle can use this fluid. Why not make this the universal coolant? You could, and maybe we have, but the corrosion inhibitors have a very short life and the antifreeze must be changed every other year or every 30,000 miles. If the customer fails to perform this maintenance, then expensive radiator, heater core and pump replacements soon follow. Unfortunately, many motorists do not keep up with maintenance, even with encouragement from their mechanics.

Group 2 – coolants based on the organic acid technology (OAT). They contain 2-ethylhexanoic-acid or 2-EHA and other organic acids, but no silicates or phosphates. This formula gives longer life, thus replacing the short-lived silicates and phosphates. Many colors reside in this group. General Motor’s OAT-based DexCool is orange. Volkswagen-Audi has the same formula, but it is pink. Honda has one coolant dyed a dark green, which looks almost black when it is dirty. The corrosion inhibitors in this group are slower acting, but longer lasting. Five years, or 150,000-mile intervals are often recommended in this group of coolants.

Group 3 - the group of hybrid OAT coolants called G-05. They do not have 2-EHA but use other organic acids and add a little silicate. Silicate is desired because it provides quick-acting protection for aluminum surfaces. Silicate will also repair minor surface defects. Chrysler, Ford, and many European manufacturers are using these hybrid OATs.

[Bradley G]

How long in time mileage is group #3 good for ? good info!

[blackf0rk]

Holding the Off and Floor buttons for the ATC test does nothing.

[ctrlraven]

Push the OFF and FLOOR buttons for 2 secs then release, within 2 secs press the AUTOMATIC button and you should see a little line start moving around in a circle motion. You need to do this with the key in the On position also.

[blackf0rk]

Yep. That is exactly what I am doing. I am pushing and holding the OFF and FLOOR buttons for 2 seconds, then I release them. Within 2 seconds I press the AUTOMATIC button and the only thing that happens is the display shows the previous temp I had it set to and the fan turns on.

[ctrlraven]

How long in time mileage is group #3 good for ? good info!

What does Ford say about the coolant change? Most of the hybrid coolants I have read up on are good for 5 yrs or 100k miles. I would still change mine every other year (24 months or 30k miles) cause it can't hurt.

Here is a coolant type breakdown chart.
http://www.eetcorp.com/antifreeze/Coolants_matrix.pdf

[ctrlraven]

Yep. That is exactly what I am doing. I am pushing and holding the OFF and FLOOR buttons for 2 seconds, then I release them. Within 2 seconds I press the AUTOMATIC button and the only thing that happens is the display shows the previous temp I had it set to and the fan turns on.

Before doing the test press the DEFROST button then press OFF. Cycle the key on and off 1-3 times and try again.

[blackf0rk]

Before doing the test press the DEFROST button then press OFF. Cycle the key on and off 1-3 times and try again.

Nope. Same thing. Nothing happens.

Also, I noticed that when the car is in the on position (not running, just ON) the air that's coming out through the floor vent, while the temp is set at 80, is cool. But when I turn the car on, the air becomes MUCH cooler, almost as if the AC was on.

[larryo340]

This is from the factory manual:


Electronic Automatic Temperature Control Module Self-Test

The EATC module self-test will not detect concerns associated with data link messages like engine coolant temperature or vehicle speed signals. A diagnostic tool must be used to retrieve these concerns.
The EATC module self-test will detect concerns in the system control functions and will display hard diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) in addition to intermittent diagnostic trouble codes for concerns that occur during system operation. The vehicle interior temperature should be between 4°-32°C (40-90°F) when carrying out the self-test. If the temperatures are not within the specified ranges, false in-car temperature sensor DTCs will be displayed.
The self-test can be initiated at any time. Normal operation of the system stops when the self-test is activated.
To enter the self-test, press the OFF and FLOOR buttons simultaneously and then press the AUTOMATIC button within two seconds. The display will show a pulse tracer going around the center of the display window. The test may run as long as 30 seconds. Record all DTCs displayed.
If any DTCs appear during the self-test, follow the diagnostics procedure given under ACTION for each DTC given.
If a condition exists but no DTCs appear during the self-test, GO to Symptom Chart (file:///C:/TSO/tsocache/LARRY-PC_5864/S4A~us~en~file=S4AC0003.htm~ge n~ref.htm#SC1)Condition: The EATC System Is Inoperative, Intermittent or Improper Operation.
To exit self-test and retain all intermittent DTCs, push the blue (cooler) button. The control will exit self-test, retain all intermittent diagnostic trouble codes and then turn OFF (display blank).
To exit the self-test and clear all DTCs, press the DEFROST button. The vacuum fluorescent display window will show 888 and all function symbols for one second. Then, the EATC control assembly will turn OFF (display blank) and all DTCs will be cleared.
Always exit the self-test before powering the system down (system turned OFF).
Intermittent DTCs will be deleted after 80 ignition switch ON cycles after the intermittent condition occurs.

[blackf0rk]

Ok, so on my way home tonight I figured I'd give 'er another try (the EATC test). Apparantly, you have to hit the OFF and FLOOR buttons quickly and then within two seconds hit the AUTO button. I was holding the OFF and FLOOR buttons for .5 to 2 seconds in my testing. Anyways, I got it to work.

The code it spit back at me was 025, which is (according the chart) an "EATC Intermittent Run-time fault" and "Blend door failure."

So, I hit the cooler (blue) button to exit, as it described, turn the car on, and now I have heat. So, I'm going to assume by the code, that it was some intermittent failure and that going through and resetting it fixed it.

If anyone can explain this all to me, that would be awesome. If not, not a big deal...I have HEAT! :)

[RF Overlord]

2003 uses regular Green coolant, 2004 uses Gold color coolant.My 2003 300a came with the Gold coolant.

[ctrlraven]

My 2003 300a came with the Gold coolant.
Who knows?

They say not to mix cause you never truly get everything out. If you already have green stay it, same as gold.

[Bradley G]

Your welcome

[blackf0rk]

Who knows?

They say not to mix cause you never truly get everything out. If you already have green stay it, same as gold.

I don't have green, I have red. That's why I asked if I should change it. Someone else here, I believe, had red stuff put in by their dealer and it was wrong and the dealer changed it to the gold stuff.

So, I'm wondering if I should do the same.

[ctrlraven]

Have your system flushed when you do it.

[Drock96Marquis]

Green->Gold coolant was a mid 2003 MY change for all panthers (Before the Job 2 cars, 7/15/'02+ production, so there are some 300As with gold factory fill coolant (though I'd hope they've replaced it by now))

Red was never factory fill and I would not leave it in there. I'd have it flushed out. You will probably have to flush and fill twice to get it all out because of residual in the block. You can use gold for extended life or green, but with either you need to get whatever you have now completely flushed out.



Ok, so on my way home tonight I figured I'd give 'er another try (the EATC test). Apparantly, you have to hit the OFF and FLOOR buttons quickly and then within two seconds hit the AUTO button. I was holding the OFF and FLOOR buttons for .5 to 2 seconds in my testing. Anyways, I got it to work.

The code it spit back at me was 025, which is (according the chart) an "EATC Intermittent Run-time fault" and "Blend door failure."

So, I hit the cooler (blue) button to exit, as it described, turn the car on, and now I have heat. So, I'm going to assume by the code, that it was some intermittent failure and that going through and resetting it fixed it.

If anyone can explain this all to me, that would be awesome. If not, not a big deal...I have HEAT! :)
That has happened to a few people before, though rare.
Consider yourself lucky. Blend door replacement is a PITA and involves dropping the entire dashboard down to access (same with heater core)