Pulled the Tranny

[FordNut]

Got it out this evening, gonna set it next to the 4R100 tomorrow and make some measurements, I'll take pics and post. The size difference is significant...

[ImpalaSlayer]

haha you have a tranny jack i guess>?

[justbob]

haha you have a tranny jack i guess>?
Those are for:baby: Atleast thats what us broke guys say.

[larryo340]

Nothing wrong with a floor jack and piece of wood for most transmissions, but for that big beast I hope you use a tranny jack.

[ImpalaSlayer]

well yeah that works too
i just had 2 ppl pick it up since i was working over a pit

[Blackened300a]

I just did a 5spd manual swap in a supercoupe last weekend. Taking it out was easy, lifting it up by hand an lining up the spline was completely different mission.

A jack is worth the money!

[FordNut]

Taking out & installing the 4R70 with the floor jack & a block of wood is no problem, but this big mother is gonna need a tranny jack. I have an adapter that fits the standard floor jack but I've never used it. That's about to change. Hard part is getting the tranny on the jack & under the car. Usually I drag the tranny under the car then gradually block it up until I can get the jack under it because the car is as high as I can get it and the tranny won't go under it while on the jack. No way the big 4R100 is gonna be wrangled up on the jack while under the car, so I gotta find a way to get the car up higher.

[O's Fan Rich]

Brian, I'm watch this with interest!

And I have a lift and a tranny jack to use with the lift.....
well, it's Dads,..... but hey....

[larryo340]

Taking out & installing the 4R70 with the floor jack & a block of wood is no problem, but this big mother is gonna need a tranny jack. I have an adapter that fits the standard floor jack but I've never used it. That's about to change. Hard part is getting the tranny on the jack & under the car. Usually I drag the tranny under the car then gradually block it up until I can get the jack under it because the car is as high as I can get it and the tranny won't go under it while on the jack. No way the big 4R100 is gonna be wrangled up on the jack while under the car, so I gotta find a way to get the car up higher.

Just a thought....what kind of jack stands are you using, when I R&R transmissions in my '67 340 Dart I used 6 ton jackstands that were normally used on my Bronco. Much taller than regular car stands, you just have to use stack a couple blocks of 4X4's on the floor jack.

[FordNut]

The tranny was shipped with converter installed and braced:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_CIMG1023.JPG

The flexplate doesn't have holes for mounting it, but it has holes that line up if I drill them out:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_CIMG1024.JPG

The instructions that came with the tranny say DO NOT REMOVE CONVERTER and say to use the Ford retaining tool. I saw it in the manual and made one for myself. Apparently there has been some issue in the past with converters not being fully seated when the tranny is installed???

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_CIMG1025.JPG

Here are the cooler lines connected to the tranny. I had to get used ones from a junkyard, the Ford parts guy couldn't get them (one of them is supposedly discontinued). This is the van setup, which connects to the side of the fitting. The truck setup comes out the end of the fitting and would surely have clearance problems.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_CIMG1026.JPG

These lifting tabs interfere with the flexplate shield so I'll be hacking them off.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_CIMG1027.JPG

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_CIMG1028.JPG

I suspect this one is going to have clearance problems with the tunnel so I'll hack it off too:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_CIMG1029.JPG

[Stranger in the Black Sedan]

Any converter can be installed incorrectly if the installer is not careful. It's pretty simple that if the converter is drawn further into the case when the bell is bolted firmly to the block, such that you have to slide the converter up to meet the flexplate to bolt it up, it's engaged properly. If the converter is hitting the flexplate when you bolt the bell up and you can't slide the converter back away from the flexplate, it's not in right. People somehow install even the old school 3 speed auto converters wrong all the time and ruin the pump drive tangs... They don't even have the extra "click" of a lockup converter to line up when you are spinning the converter to install it.

[fastblackmerc]

Just a thought....what kind of jack stands are you using, when I R&R transmissions in my '67 340 Dart I used 6 ton jackstands that were normally used on my Bronco. Much taller than regular car stands, you just have to use stack a couple blocks of 4X4's on the floor jack.

I use some 12ton stands to get the MM nice and high.

[justbob]

Just think back thirty six years ago. Its 3:00 after school and you have a hot date with the "easy chic" from school at 8:00.

Your only tools are:
Six wrenches that fit "close enough" to most bolts
one completely rusted japan 3/8 ratchet with 3 1/2 sockets (also rusted)
Ace hardware pliers
Ball peen hammer with very loose handle
flashlight with almost dead batteries
and a dull box cutter

Your shop consists on your parents front yard and your creeper is cardboard.

Now you know that you would have been able to pull this off back then so i'm sure that you will have no problem now getting this to fit.

This story BTW is one of mine!!!!!!!And it was a 904 tranny in my 79 Newyorker

[ImpalaSlayer]

im sorry, what is this trans usualy in? and why is it better? excuse my ignorance

[RR|Suki]

im sorry, what is this trans usualy in? and why is it better? excuse my ignorance

I think it's out of the diesel trucks, and Lightning etc. Either way alot more serious even in factory trim than our trans, seeing as it sees duty in some big trucks built to do alot of work.

[FordNut]

im sorry, what is this trans usualy in? and why is it better? excuse my ignorance


I think it's out of the diesel trucks, and Lightning etc. Either way alot more serious even in factory trim than our trans, seeing as it sees duty in some big trucks built to do alot of work.

Yes, it is the transmission used in some 4.6 and most 5.4, 6.8, and diesel trucks & vans (and Navigator). The diesel has a different bell housing bolt pattern and the 4wd has a different tailshaft housing. In stock form, the Lightning one has the best of the heavy duty internal parts. It's much stronger than our original transmission. A stock Lightning tranny would be plenty strong, but the built one I got is even stronger. In addition to stronger parts, a lot of the internal bushings are changed to bearings, which results in less friction loss in the transmission.

[FordNut]

I had to mate the Marauder wiring harness and the 4R100 harness that came with the PCS controller. The MM harness has the O2 sensor wiring tied in with the transmission harness (3 of the 4 sensors). Notice the hacked off rear tab:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_CIMG1030.JPG

Had to modify the bracket for the driver's front O2 sensor plug. Notice the hacked off front tab:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_CIMG1031.JPG

Wiring work in progress. The rear O2 sensor wiring has been re-done and re-wrapped. I had to swap sides, but it should be ok since they're probably turned off in the tune anyway. Maybe I can swap the pins in the connector at the other end...

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_CIMG1032.JPG

Here's one side rear connector. I tied the wiring to the coolant bypass tube.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_CIMG1033.JPG

Here's the other side. The bolts with studs that normally hold the supporting tabs in place on the tranny don't fit. The 4R100 has larger size bolts.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_CIMG1034.JPG

Still working on the wiring harness, the driver's front is done.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_CIMG1035.JPG

The wiring harness connectors normally connect to this bracket which is connected to the dipstick tube. I took it off and made a bracket to mount it to the transmission. A spare engine wiring harness is connected to it so I can get the cable lengths right. Another lifting tab was chopped off here, too.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_CIMG1036.JPG

Gotta add one connector here to connect transmission signals between the OEM harness and the aftermarket harness. Splice the OSS sensor, and tie in the backup light & neutral/park circuit for the starter.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_CIMG1037.JPG

I finished up the wiring, next post will show a comparison of the 4R100 and the 4R70.

[FordNut]

Here they sit, side by side:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_CIMG1039.JPG

From the front:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_CIMG1040.JPG

This view shows the real difference. Standing on the end you can see how much the crossmember will need to be notched. Preliminary measurements indicate the mounts will line up by installing the crossmember backward, but it will need major notching to clear the pan.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_CIMG1041.JPG

I hope the tunnel will have enough space:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_CIMG1042.JPG

Passenger's side should be ok:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_CIMG1043.JPG

This side is gonna be a bit more difficult, gotta work out the linkage:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_CIMG1044.JPG

Dipstick and linkage are going to take some work, probably will be bigger problems than the crossmember...

[MarauderTJA]

How much heavier is it?

[justbob]

I'm surprised that you didn't dry fit this first. Man that thing is huge!

[FordNut]

How much heavier is it?

I don't have a way to weigh them, but from what I've read it weighs between 80-100 lb more.

[Glenn]

Brian:

I am forever amazed how you can do all this difficult work entirely by yourself, pull engines and reinstall, trans, etc. And you ain't no Spring Chicken!!

Good Luck.

Glenn :burnout:

[FordNut]

I'm surprised that you didn't dry fit this first. Man that thing is huge!

Not sure what you mean by dry fit? Test fit? It would have been nice if I had an empty case to try out, but I didn't have a core to disassemble. I bought it built up as it sits and it's going to fit someway or another so the wiring had to be done anyway. I'm tired of constant repairs on the 4R70W. I just hope the tunnel doesn't need mods that can't be done with a hammer. Cut & weld would be a real PITA because the interior will need to be removed for that.

[TooManyFords]

It is still not too late for a Turbo 400...

But kudos for taking the path less traveled. That is a quality I truly admire.

;)

John

[FordNut]

It is still not too late for a Turbo 400...

But kudos for taking the path less traveled. That is a quality I truly admire.

;)

John

Thanks for the suggestion, but this is better! :)

[FordNut]

Got some bigger jackstands this weekend, I believe it's high enough to work on now, but I'll still have to get the transmission under the car before putting on the jack with the transmission adapter. Worked on the dipstick tube and crossmember, just about got those done. Pics coming.

[FordNut]

Started out with a Navigator dipstick tube, figured it would come closest to fitting since it is the only 4V application that uses a 4R100. It's also shorter than most of the truck & van dipstick tubes. It wouldn't work in the MM, so I had to modify.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_CIMG1045.JPG

The two pieces on the right have to be welded together, then the top has to be cut to the proper length and it has to be re-flared.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_CIMG1046.JPG

I still have to get the support bracket from a MM dipstick tube to be welded to it also.

[FordNut]

The crossmember will be very close to fitting if it is turned around backward, but it needs a lot of mods to clear the trans pan. I started slow so it would minimize cutting out structural metal.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_CIMG1047.JPG

Surprise, the transmission mounts are not centered, so I had to make new mounting holes about 1" over to one side.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_CIMG1048.JPG

Drilled...

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_CIMG1049.JPG

Then cut and test-fitted, gotta cut some more out to clear the pan.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_CIMG1050.JPG

Couldn't get good access to the mounting nuts/studs, so I cut out the bottom.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_CIMG1051.JPG

More cutting out to clear the pan.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_CIMG1052.JPG

And the other side.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_CIMG1053.JPG

A little closer.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_CIMG1054.JPG

Work in progress.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_CIMG1055.JPG

Finished (almost!), from the top.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_CIMG1056.JPG

continued...

[FordNut]

some more...

Finished (maybe), from the bottom.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_CIMG1057.JPG

More work, from the top. The rear cooler line wouldn't clear the crossmember so I gotta work on this a little more.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_CIMG1058.JPG

Waiting for my aftermarket trans pan, then I'll know if it needs more cutting. After the fit is confirmed, bracing & gussets will be welded to the inside of the crossmember for strengthening.

Next major project will be the shift linkage and shift cable mount.

[FordNut]

The new transmission pan came in, test fitting proved that the notch in the crossmember still needed some work:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_CIMG1059.JPG

Another view of the new pan, it still has to be sent out for black thermal coating:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_CIMG1060.JPG

Close up of the notch:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_CIMG1061.JPG

The cooler tube notch:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_CIMG1062.JPG

Gusset mockups with cardboard:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_CIMG1063.JPG

Other side:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_CIMG1064.JPG

With the box ends removed:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_CIMG1065.JPG

Other side:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_CIMG1066.JPG

Maybe the cable & linkage will be here tomorrow.

[ImpalaSlayer]

looks like fun!

[Zack]

Should have built a tubular crossmember and welded on the mounting plate.

...but I know you are having WAY more fun doing it this way :D

[justbob]

Cardboard gussetes seem weak.:laugh: Good work man.

[FordNut]

Should have built a tubular crossmember and welded on the mounting plate.

...but I know you are having WAY more fun doing it this way :D

That would have probably been the trick way to go, but I have my reasons for going this way.

1. Ensures driveline angle is not changed.
2. Less expensive.
3. Easier for someone to duplicate if this works out good.
4. I can do it myself in my own garage.

[FordNut]

Cardboard gussetes seem weak.:laugh: Good work man.

Just gotta figure out how to weld that cardboard...

[Marauderjack]

If you want to drop the pan in the future how can you do it......drop the cross member first to get to the bolts??:confused:

GREAT WORK Brian!!:beer: I hope you get the results you desire!!:up:

Marauderjack:burnout:

[FordNut]

If you want to drop the pan in the future how can you do it......drop the cross member first to get to the bolts??:confused:


Yes. I could possibly cut away more metal for access to bolts, but I believe maintaining strength is more important. Crossmember isn't all that difficult to remove, only about 8 bolts. When the fluid is changed, it's on a rack anyway (usually at Team Ford).

[TooManyFords]

Just gotta figure out how to weld that cardboard...

JB Weld ftw!

[TooManyFords]

That would have probably been the trick way to go, but I have my reasons for going this way.

1. Ensures driveline angle is not changed.
2. Less expensive.
3. Easier for someone to duplicate if this works out good.
4. I can do it myself in my own garage.

Everything but #3 looks good. Nobody will be able to duplicate the mods you're making to that cross-member. <grin!>

[TooManyFords]

Yes. I could possibly cut away more metal for access to bolts, but I believe maintaining strength is more important. Crossmember isn't all that difficult to remove, only about 8 bolts. When the fluid is changed, it's on a rack anyway (usually at Team Ford).

If you have to drop the crossmember to drop the pan, then you should probably rethink this whole plan. Go with a tubular setup like Zack described and be done.

[FordNut]

Crossmember is coming together, here's one of the metal pieces made from the cardboard mock-up...

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_CIMG1067.JPG

Welded in...

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_CIMG1068.JPG

Other side...

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_CIMG1069.JPG

Whole section...

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_CIMG1070.JPG

My welding ain't pretty, so it will take a little grinding to clean it up before the remaining pieces are fitted. No way I could do the welding on the dipstick tube, I just don't have the skills to weld thin stuff.

Gotta get with it on the linkage and cable bracket mods next.

Didn't get much done today, had to do some yard work instead.

[Zack]

Isnt yard work far more relaxing :D

[FordNut]

If you have to drop the crossmember to drop the pan, then you should probably rethink this whole plan. Go with a tubular setup like Zack described and be done.

Not sure why it matters, I can't drop the engine oil pan... I have a remote filter for the tranny, so the OEM-style screen should never see any trash. It has a drain plug and a replaceable filter just like the engine oil, so it should never need to have the pan removed.

[FordNut]

Isnt yard work far more relaxing :D

Yeah, but not as much fun!

[Glenn]

Brian:

You are amazing - good luck. This monster is good for 10's.

Glenn :beer:

[Marauderjack]

Not sure why it matters, I can't drop the engine oil pan... I have a remote filter for the tranny, so the OEM-style screen should never see any trash. It has a drain plug and a replaceable filter just like the engine oil, so it should never need to have the pan removed.

Oh...I didn't realize it has a remote filter??:shake:

Ignore previous post and carry on!!:beer:

Impressive work Brian!!:bows:

[FordNut]

Been travelling a lot, so it's been on the back burner for awhile. Worked on the dipstick tube:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_cimg1073.jpg (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/showimage.php?i=15143&c=newimages&cutoffdate=1)

The top clamp is held on temporarily by the hose clamps until welding is done. The funky bends in the bracket were needed to clear the flexplate shield. More mods were done to adjust length, pics were lost somehow. I'll post more after it comes back from powdercoating.

Here's the original shifter cable bracket for the 4r100:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_cimg1074.jpg (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/showimage.php?i=15143&c=newimages&cutoffdate=1)

Another view, before I start welding & hacking on it:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_cimg1075.jpg (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/showimage.php?i=15143&c=newimages&cutoffdate=1)

The linkage also has to be modified, here is a Marauder piece:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_cimg1076.jpg (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/showimage.php?i=15143&c=newimages&cutoffdate=1)

Hacked it off and did some grinding:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_cimg1077.jpg (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/showimage.php?i=15143&c=newimages&cutoffdate=1)

And welded it onto the 4R100 linkage:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_cimg1079.jpg (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/showimage.php?i=15143&c=newimages&cutoffdate=1)

It had to be a little off-center for the Marauder linkage to line up right:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_cimg1080.jpg (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/showimage.php?i=15143&c=newimages&cutoffdate=1)

It's a little longer, too so the sweep length is right for shifter/cable travel:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_cimg1081.jpg (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/showimage.php?i=15143&c=newimages&cutoffdate=1)

continued...

[FordNut]

So here is the bracket for the Marauder cable and the extension to the linkage:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_cimg1082.jpg (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/showimage.php?i=15143&c=newimages&cutoffdate=1)

The black piece at the front is the original Marauder cable mount, the extended bracket places the mounting holes in the same location as the 4r70w so the cable length will be ok to clear headers & stuff.

Hacked off the original 4r100 lever since it's sticking out far enough to be a likely interference problem with the tunnel:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_cimg1083.jpg (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/showimage.php?i=15143&c=newimages&cutoffdate=1)

The other end of the extended link, it is just about 6" longer:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_cimg1084.jpg (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/showimage.php?i=15143&c=newimages&cutoffdate=1)

I also took some pictures of the mounting bracket that were somehow lost, I'll take more when it comes back from the powdercoater.

The pan is back from black thermal dispersant coating, so I installed that:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/tn_cimg1085.jpg (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/showimage.php?i=15143&c=newimages&cutoffdate=1)

Thinking about sanding off the coating at the tips of the fins for a little bling.

Next week I should be able to get the crossmember finished, got a couple of gussets to weld in and some painting to do. Then it's time for some installation struggles!

[Local Boy]

That's some WILD stuff Brian!!!

Looking foward to seeing it come together soon...

And...Thanks for that extra idler pulley, for the Procharger...

It's works...and looks GREAT!!!

ALOHA

[jvillerauder]

all i can say is wow

[FordNut]

Finished the crossmember, welded in the gussets and painted it, drilled new holes for the e-brake cable attaching (remember, it's backward now).

[FordNut]

And first time test-fitting! No pics yet, but here's how it went...

First, I changed out the coolant lines. The original ones were a PITA to remove, but the replacements went in slick as a whistle! Then, just in case everything fit the first time (haha), I installed the flexplate. The driveshaft loop had to come out, the rear seal is about at the loop. Gotta mod that sometime too. Wiped down the floor pans a little, it was terribly dirty due to the seal blowing out and spraying tranny fluid all over the place. Still a lot of cleaning to do, but I was getting sidetracked so...

I jacked it up in the tunnel, seemed ok. Got a couple of bellhousing bolts in and snugged it up, so far so good. Started jacking the rear up to see if the crossmember might possibly fit and "clunk", it hit the floor pan in the tunnel. So I started inspecting and marking suspect areas with a sharpie. Most places look lika a little massaging with a sledge will take care of it. One spot which is double-walled will need a small notch cut in it. Not much worse than fitting the gearvendors OD unit in a MM.

My wiring needs some work, the routing was way too close to the header on the passenger side. I'll take some before/after pics tomorrow after massaging and before the next round of test-fitting. Might take 3 tries, but it's gonna fit without extensive cutting & welding of the floor pan. But it's tight, maybe even too tight for a trans safety blanket.

I looked from the side, the pan is certainly going to hang down a little lower than even the deep pan on the 4R70W did. The aftermarket pan I installed is no deeper than the OEM 4X4 pan, so we'll see once the crossmember is in. Then I gotta figure out the driveshaft and loop.

After seeing how tight it is, I realize there was no way I could have installed the shift bracket, dipstick tube, and flexplate shield without removing it again anyway.

[Glenn]

Great job Brian - I always marvel at your mechanical ability. Good luck with the final install.

Glenn :burnout:

[Black_Noise]

keep up the adventure pictures.

[FordNut]

In-out-in-out-in....

It's in for the 3rd time, this time it was close enough for the crossmember to fit. Not enough clearance in a few spots, so it would have to come out for more sheet metal massaging even if it wasn't coming back out for the shift cable bracket & linkage and flexplate shield & dipstick tube.

A couple of spots where I massaged the tunnel weren't really necessary, other spots need a little more. Really hard to get a sharpie in between the tranny and sheetmetal to mark it.

The pan really doesn't hang down as far as I thought. The crossmember mods worked out really good. The tranny mount is slid up to the front end of the slotted holes so it will be possible to pull the tranny pan without removing the crossmember. And it's closer to the strong part of the crossmember so the weight of the transmission won't be out at the end of a lever.

Waiting for some data from Denny's so I can figure out driveshaft measurements, gotta modify the driveshaft loop, install the electronics, put heat sheathing on the control cables (too close to headers).

Maybe another month or two. Could be quicker, but I gotta travel for work the next 3 -4 weeks.

[FordNut]

The tunnel mods are going to change a bit, final version pics will be posted later. Here are the areas of the tranny that caused the worst problems:

[FordNut]

I got the parts back from powdercoating. Almost look too nice to put underneath the car where they won't be seen. Way too damn cold to try to install them today.

The 1350 yoke came in from Denny's. It is the shortest one available, so that helps to ensure the driveshaft will work whenever I have to change to a 9".

[FordNut]

Transmission is ready to go in for the last time (I hope). Here it is with all the linkage, brackets, etc. attached. You can see the heat shield insulation I added to the coolant tubes and the wiring harness. The coolant tubes come a little closer to the cat than the original trans, so I thought this would be a good idea. The wiring harness goes right above the collector so I didn't want to melt it. I had to punch a hole in the floor pan for the wiring to pass through. I took a grommet from a wiring harness I had laying around, it's about 1-7/8" diameter.

[FordNut]

I'll try to get some updated pics of the tunnel mods tomorrow, I think I've finished all the massaging I gotta do. I want to repaint it, the primer flaked off from the hammering. Tomorrow is supposed to be warm enough that I can get paint to stick.

[CKMustangCobra]

I didn't see this asked before....

What is the point? Why not build the stock transmission and save some weight and all this cutting/welding?


Fun?

[ImpalaSlayer]

I didn't see this asked before....

What is the point? Why not build the stock transmission and save some weight and all this cutting/welding?


Fun?


i think the idea is to avoid that, apparently this is way stronger then the 4r70 will ever be

[Zack]

I didn't see this asked before....

What is the point? Why not build the stock transmission and save some weight and all this cutting/welding?


Fun?

Lightning owners are reporting 1000+ quarter mile passes with insane amounts of torque and NEVER having an issue with this trans.

I admire Fordnut for taking this on.

[FordNut]

I didn't see this asked before....

What is the point? Why not build the stock transmission and save some weight and all this cutting/welding?


Fun?

Been there several times. About 8 times for remove, rebuild/repair, reinstall and $12-14 k spent so far. And no, it's not fun, I'm really tired of pulling the transmission or paying somebody else to do it.


Lightning owners are reporting 1000+ quarter mile passes with insane amounts of torque and NEVER having an issue with this trans.

I admire Fordnut for taking this on.

And there's one of the main reasons for this transmission choice. Plus it has locking converter and 4 speed overdrive, unlike the C4, powerglide or TH400 conversions that some of the higher powered 'stangs use. And I can lock the converter or shift into overdrive at WOT without hurting it, and it doesn't care about 4-2 downshifts.

[2,4shofast]

This an amazing undertaking! I love all the pics and information. I cant wait to see the final product! I wish I had the mechanical ablility to undertake such a project:beer:

[FordNut]

OK, I finished the tunnel mods, primered it with self-etching primer. Pretty close match to the original primer color. Then just-in-case I didn't get enough clearance I added some padding so it didn't rattle. I think I've got about 1/4" of space. Put the cats in and found a couple of more issues, the passenger side rattled against the crossmember, so I had to modify it with a ball-peen hammer. The driver side is very close to the gear selector switch so I added some heat shield over the switch and the wiring.

[ImpalaSlayer]

sweet! how is it in the air? jack stands? it looks awfuly steep

[FordNut]

I also swapped the yoke on the rear end to the standard open style 1350 series u-joint with u-bolts. Then I installed the front yoke and got measurements for the driveshaft. I want to make it as long as I can so it will still fit if/when I change to a 9". I also measured the driveshaft loop to see how much I need to extend its mounting brackets, looks like 6" further back and some more tunnel massaging. The pan does stick down a little further than the 4R70 deep pan did, but not too bad. And I can certainly pull the pan without dropping the crossmember if necessary, too.

[FordNut]

sweet! how is it in the air? jack stands? it looks awfuly steep

I got some of the super-long jackstands. 6 ton, I believe 18 or 24".

[TooManyFords]

Keep up the good work, Brian.
;)

[FordNut]

'bout done. Driveshaft, loop, connect coolers, add fluid, connect controller, adjust program. Gotta get new fittings since the lines went from 5/16" to 3/8". Ordered Schaeffer #204 synthetic ATF. It's the only kind of synthetic fluid recommended for the 4R100. It uses Mercon III instead of Mercon V. The recommendations say that Mercon V will ruin the transmission.

[FordNut]

Driveshaft loop is modified, extended it 6" due to longer transmission. Pics are pre-powdercoating. Wife took it for powdercoating this week, I'll post pics this weekend. Driveshaft came today, I'll also post pics of it. All the physical install should be done this weekend, only thing left will be the controller.

[CKMustangCobra]

Thanks for the answers.

Can't wait to see it done and how it drives.

[FordNut]

Hope to get these 2 items installed this weekend. Doesn't sound like a big accomplishment, but I got home after 2 am Friday and leave again at 2 pm Sunday, gotta take care of the honey-do's as well as getting a new creeper. I gave away my old one. It was kind of busted up, an old wooden one from Nationwise Auto Parts. How long have they been out of business?

Anyway, the backdrop for the freshly powdercoated loop is the wife's workmanship. She has been practicing to qualify for her CCW permit.

The shaft is really nice, it's from Mark Williams, 4" MMC, gold anodized. Almost too pretty to put underneath the car!

[O's Fan Rich]

Driveshaft loop is modified, extended it 6" due to longer transmission. Pics are pre-powdercoating. Wife took it for powdercoating this week, I'll post pics this weekend. Driveshaft came today, I'll also post pics of it. All the physical install should be done this weekend, only thing left will be the controller.

Looks like someone blinked or jerked a trigger a couple of times.....

[Glenn]

Brian:

An amazing job and one of a kind. When will you run the car for some times?

Glenn Ford :burnout:

[FordNut]

Looks like someone blinked or jerked a trigger a couple of times.....

Yeah, she has only been to the firing range about 4-5 times ever. One target she only used the Ruger GP100 357, the other she used both the 357 and the Walther PPK 380. She's not too good with automatics.

[FordNut]

Brian:

An amazing job and one of a kind. When will you run the car for some times?

Glenn Ford :burnout:

Soon...
I'll work on some launches and 60's at a local track and ensure nothing breaks while I'm within AAA towing distance to home.

[FordNut]

It's off the jackstands. Fluid filled. No leaks so far. Gotta hook up the controller & program it and re-program the chip in my PCM to think it's a manual. I'll do a little wiring tomorrow, maybe next weekend it will be finished. Except for fine tuning.

[FordNut]

Looks like someone blinked or jerked a trigger a couple of times.....


Yeah, she has only been to the firing range about 4-5 times ever. One target she only used the Ruger GP100 357, the other she used both the 357 and the Walther PPK 380. She's not too good with automatics.

She took the state-required course and qualified today, now we just need to send in the application and fees! She used the GP100 for qualification. Tennessee doesn't require you to qualify with the specific gun or caliber you're gonna tote.

[burt ragio]

Nice work on the ride. Looking foward to some results of all your hard work.

[babbage]

Wow. Any updates? How does it drive around the block?

[FordNut]

So far it has only been backed out of the garage and pulled back in. Surprised it even does that, the controller isn't connected yet. I hoped to do that this past week but had a midnight emergency call Tuesday, system down, had to hop on a plane, out of town again...

[Zack]

A 4r70w will always go into reverse, electronics or not.
Looking forward to the final review.

[FordNut]

Looking forward to the final review.

Me too. Been down since November, way too long. If I had a professional shop doing it I would have been on the road several months ago.

[offroadkarter]

If I had a professional shop doing it I would have been on the road several months ago.


Yeah but its better to tell someone "I did that on the garage floor at 3am with a flathead screwdriver and the help of Chuck Norris" rather than "I paid a shop cash out the :censor: to have that done"

[O's Fan Rich]

Yeah but its better to tell someone "I did that on the garage floor at 3am with a flathead screwdriver and the help of Chuck Norris" rather than "I paid a shop cash out the :censor: to have that done"

Being part of the "over 40 pushing 50" crowd... I sometimes question that logic that I previously also maintained....

Brian, just to add..... even with the "flinching" someone would have been hurtin'!!!

[FordNut]

It's off the jackstands. Fluid filled. No leaks so far. Gotta hook up the controller & program it and re-program the chip in my PCM to think it's a manual. I'll do a little wiring tomorrow, maybe next weekend it will be finished. Except for fine tuning.

It did develop a leak around the pan, had to drain it and silicone the pan then re-fill it. Re-programmed the chip and worked on the wiring harness break-out connections. Still gotta hookup and program the controller.

[ts-pa]

Wow Brian, that is an awesome mod! Please keep us posted on the results.

[FordNut]

Meant to post these the other day, pics of the breakout connections where I spliced into the wiring harness. First one is without the connector cover, second is with cover re-installed but wires not wrapped with convoluted tubing. The cruise control servo is removed for access, but it's still tight. The connector right beside the PCM connector is a bulkhead from the interior to the engine compartment, so it's a really convenient place to splice instead of adding wires to all the individual connection points.

[FordNut]

Controller connected and communicating with the engine, transmission, and laptop. Now for programming and calibration. Ought to be able to drive it this weekend.

[FordNut]

Woohoo!
Actually drove it around the block today. Couple of little bugs to work out and some more testing, but I ought to be back in business by this weekend.

Bad news, a rattle from the cats. I was afraid that may happen after banging on them with a hammer so they would clear the modified crossmember. Oh well, sounds like a trip to Buster's new shop in GA is in order.

[FordNut]

Learning to program it today. Lots of datalogging and adjusting the tune. Not only is the software a lot different from the SCT PRP, the available functions are quite different too. In a lot of ways, it's simpler. Just takes awhile to get used to it. Sure is nice to drive the Marauder again!

[Pops]

Sounds good Brian! Keep after it. :)

[babbage]

How's the driveability? Also install some Dynamat extreme on the body above the cats if you are getting new ones.

What's the latest?

[FordNut]

So far I've just about figured out the low-low throttle opening shift points. Working of firmness a bit for those, then I'll move on up to higher throttle openings and transitions/downshifting. Between the rain and spending so much time on the road travelling for work, I don't have a lot of time to fool with it. I'm just happy to have it back on the road.