View Full Version : Manual Air-ride
magindat
11-16-2008, 12:33 PM
Rather than crap-up John's thread, Here's the way to take manual control of the ride height:
Background:
1) Ford air suspension has a solenoid at the bag to prevent air from entering or leaving or swapping from bag to bag without authorization (+12V Trigger)
2) These solenoids must be triggered to both inflate and deflate the bags.
3) The computer for the air suspension is behind the glove box. Just open it, press in on the edges and let it flop down.
4) The wires needed are in the upper black harness.
5) This computer also controls the power steering speed-sensitivity assist.
6) BN/PK = left solenoid, TN/WH = right solenoid (+12)
7) PK = vent or release or 'lower' valve (+12)
8) DB/YE = compressor on or 'up' (-12)
magindat
11-16-2008, 12:36 PM
Parts needed:
DPDT switch
3 splice connectors
connectors for your switch
Big honkin 3w or more diode
5 wire colors long enough to reach your power source, ground, harness and whereever you put your switch...
We are switching trigger amperages. No big power needed...
You need a source of 12v switched or constant, your choice.
You need a ground source (easily found behind passenger kick panel)
magindat
11-16-2008, 12:38 PM
In my illustration:
White is source ground (Sorry was out of black).
Red is source power
Blue is -12 to the compressor trigger
Purple/White is airbag solenoid trigger
Pink is release valve trigger.
So:
For up, we need +12 to purple/white and -12 to blue
For down, +12 to pink and +12 to purple white
We need to isolate the +12 trigger to pink from the +12 trigger to purple/white when we want 'up' - otherwise the release solenoid will trigger when the compressor triggers and the net result is nada. (Actually the car falls, cuz air releases faster than the compressor puts it in).
magindat
11-16-2008, 12:44 PM
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/3/5/4/8/IMG_4107.JPG
This particular switch can be had at any FLAPS. It's an easy switch. One PT is on one side and the other on the other.
Here, -12 triggers are on the left and +12's on the right.
As you can see, when BL (up compressor) gets -12, then purple/white (open solenoids) gets it's +12.
Due to the diode, pink (down) does NOT get triggered while in 'up' mode.
When pink gets it's +12 (down), purple/white gets it's +12.
Note: Mind the silver band on the diode. It tells you which way the power will flow and which way power is blocked.
magindat
11-16-2008, 12:48 PM
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/3/5/4/8/IMG_4106.JPG
Cut:
DB/YE, PK, BN/PK, TN/WH
Strip them all.
Twist DB/YE and BN/PK together. Connect to solenoid trigger (for me purple/white).
Connect 'up' to DB/YE (for me, blue)
Connect 'down' (for me, pink)
magindat
11-16-2008, 12:52 PM
I had planned on connecting a red/green LED to this for up and down. Time got in the way and now it is what it is.
To do so. Connect the + leg of the diode to power.
Find the correct resistors (Probly 220-330 ohms for most) and connect the green leg through the resistor to the purple/white (in my case) and the red leg to the pink (in my case).
Obviously, wires could be extended to the LED to facilitate mounting the LED and switch wherever you want.
For now, my switch is mounted on the back wall of my glove box and I've made sure it clears all the works when the glove box is opened.
magindat
11-16-2008, 12:53 PM
Another pic. Different angle.
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/3/5/4/8/IMG_4105.JPG
Windsor58
11-16-2008, 04:41 PM
Interesting. Where did you mount the switch? Does it still auto adjust to the level you set it to, or is it completely manual, now?
TooManyFords
11-16-2008, 05:24 PM
Rich, do you have a picture of the wiring diagram for this? I have to be honest, I got confused from the write-up and the pictures exactly how it all hooks up.
Thanks!
John
Marauder386
11-17-2008, 08:12 AM
HMMKay ! Will gather parts, and, hopefully, same color-coded wiring from the wiring harness/plug ... gotta get some "Pig-Butt" off the new Nittos ...
:cool4:
magindat
11-17-2008, 08:41 AM
For now, my switch is mounted on the back wall of my glove box and I've made sure it clears all the works when the glove box is opened.
Interesting. Where did you mount the switch? Does it still auto adjust to the level you set it to, or is it completely manual, now?
:stupid:
:laugh:
No auto at all. Sensor isn't even installed over the axle.
magindat
11-17-2008, 09:04 AM
Rich, do you have a picture of the wiring diagram for this? I have to be honest, I got confused from the write-up and the pictures exactly how it all hooks up.
Thanks!
John
If I remember the symbols right, this should do it...
TooManyFords
11-17-2008, 09:19 AM
Thanks Rich. I'll forward to my builder.
Cheers!
John
magindat
11-17-2008, 09:28 AM
Thanks Rich. I'll forward to my builder.
Cheers!
John
Just make sure I drew the diode the right direction: It's been a while!!!
TooManyFords
11-17-2008, 09:30 AM
If I remember correctly, voltage flows in the direction of the arrow head. And if I really strain my brain, I could probably guess at the colors on a resistor, but let's not test that theory!
:D
magindat
11-17-2008, 09:32 AM
If I remember correctly, voltage flows in the direction of the arrow head. And if I really strain my brain, I could probably guess at the colors on a resistor, but let's not test that theory!
:D
Then it's right according to your recollection as well!!!
Resistors? I gotta cheat sheet in the electronics drawer for that!!! :cool:
03calitejas
11-17-2008, 07:57 PM
The easy way to remember the resistor color code is
"Bad Boys Rape Our Young Girls Behind Victory Garden Walls,
But Violet Gives Willingly"- that, or heres a chart :)
Resistor Color Code Chart
http://www.allspectrum.com/store/images/pixel_trans.gifHere is the standard 4-band resistor color code chart. We have this chart on the back of our business cards, use this form (http://www.allspectrum.com/store/contact_us.php) to request them at no cost. A handy reference perfect for students and anyone learning electronics. http://www.allspectrum.com/biz-cards/Resistor-color-code-chart-All-Spectrum-Electronics.jpg
Marauder386
11-18-2008, 09:59 AM
... In the middle of doing this project right now...will report back later...
:cool4:
Marauder386
11-18-2008, 12:21 PM
Well all went okay with this install ... my air compressor must be shot because nothing happened ! So I will leave this switch installed and now go buy a new compressor ...
Yep, saw the thread with linkie for a good price on a new one...
:cool4:
Rocknthehawk
11-18-2008, 01:08 PM
So this is to simply have control of the rear height manually?
video?
I already have "manual" air ride in my truck :lol:
Marauder386
11-18-2008, 01:26 PM
Pretty much, thats the deal with this conversion ... I dont have video ... unless you want to see zero results due to DOA compressor ... :mad:
:cool4:
Windsor58
11-18-2008, 10:57 PM
Rich, did you think about what it would take to keep the auto-level and bias the height sensor feedback so it thinks "zero" is in a different place? this way you could adjust the ride height but still keep the auto level for those lunches when I take all my buddies along (and not have to manually crank it back up after they got in).
And then that got me thinking - could an MM be reasonably modified with Town Car parts to replace the front springs with air bags, then implement front and rear height adjustment controls. Then you could drop it in the weeds for canyon carving or raise both ends up when the snow gets deep...
Ok, so I'm like a back seat driver/tinkerer here. Just got me thinking. Thanks for the info and seeds.
Rocknthehawk
11-19-2008, 06:19 AM
Rich, did you think about what it would take to keep the auto-level and bias the height sensor feedback so it thinks "zero" is in a different place? this way you could adjust the ride height but still keep the auto level for those lunches when I take all my buddies along (and not have to manually crank it back up after they got in).
And then that got me thinking - could an MM be reasonably modified with Town Car parts to replace the front springs with air bags, then implement front and rear height adjustment controls. Then you could drop it in the weeds for canyon carving or raise both ends up when the snow gets deep...
Ok, so I'm like a back seat driver/tinkerer here. Just got me thinking. Thanks for the info and seeds.
Basically what you're looking at doing is easy. You'd want something like the ride pro-e...It's simply height or pressure sensors. Most of them can be set so that at start up, it automatically raises to ride height. Using possible 1/4" line on 3/8" valves, you could have a good control of the speed to raise lower. I would say skipping past all of the stock controlers would be your best bet.
On my truck I run 8- 3/8" SMC Valves, 1/2" DOT airline, an engine driven compressor, and one 5 gallon tank. It's FAST.
magindat
11-19-2008, 07:12 AM
Rich, did you think about what it would take to keep the auto-level and bias the height sensor feedback so it thinks "zero" is in a different place? this way you could adjust the ride height but still keep the auto level for those lunches when I take all my buddies along (and not have to manually crank it back up after they got in).
And then that got me thinking - could an MM be reasonably modified with Town Car parts to replace the front springs with air bags, then implement front and rear height adjustment controls. Then you could drop it in the weeds for canyon carving or raise both ends up when the snow gets deep...
Ok, so I'm like a back seat driver/tinkerer here. Just got me thinking. Thanks for the info and seeds.
Basically what you're looking at doing is easy. You'd want something like the ride pro-e...It's simply height or pressure sensors. Most of them can be set so that at start up, it automatically raises to ride height. Using possible 1/4" line on 3/8" valves, you could have a good control of the speed to raise lower. I would say skipping past all of the stock controlers would be your best bet.
On my truck I run 8- 3/8" SMC Valves, 1/2" DOT airline, an engine driven compressor, and one 5 gallon tank. It's FAST.
I've done the homework on this. It's about 3 grand to do it right. Maybe someday.
I've done many air suspended cars like T-Bolt. It's fun!
TooManyFords
11-19-2008, 07:54 AM
I went to get my car yesterday but Brian was not quite done with the switch. He said it would raise the car correctly, but the lower side of the switch did not work. Any guess what he might have wired wrong?
He said it was going to go over the pictures and diagram again.
John
magindat
11-19-2008, 09:05 AM
I went to get my car yesterday but Brian was not quite done with the switch. He said it would raise the car correctly, but the lower side of the switch did not work. Any guess what he might have wired wrong?
He said it was going to go over the pictures and diagram again.
John
Diode backwards?
Marauder386
11-19-2008, 09:36 AM
:stupid:
:laugh:
No auto at all. Sensor isn't even installed over the axle.
Hmmmm ! So I should unplug the sensor with this conversion ? Also have gotten good power to it now and am only getting a click/click in both positions. Trunk switch is in the OFF position also ...
:cool4:
Marauder386
11-19-2008, 12:47 PM
I now have the ride height sensor removed...two 10mm bolts and then unplugged it. Sealed up the female end so no moisture will ruin it. Still just get the solenoids on the airbags clicking with no compressor pumping them up.... :mad2: :censor:
:cool4:
Marauder386
11-19-2008, 12:52 PM
I went to get my car yesterday but Brian was not quite done with the switch. He said it would raise the car correctly, but the lower side of the switch did not work. Any guess what he might have wired wrong?
He said it was going to go over the pictures and diagram again.
John
John, I had to hold a work lamp directly into the glovebox area to differentiate between BLACK and BROWN with PINK stripe ... Maybe the problem ? Just my experience so far with this conversion.
:cool4:
Rocknthehawk
11-19-2008, 01:22 PM
I've done the homework on this. It's about 3 grand to do it right. Maybe someday.
I've done many air suspended cars like T-Bolt. It's fun!
Rich, Just curious why you say it would be so much? If you're simply looking to go up/down, and not actually "lay out", it shouldn't be so bad?!?
The whole air setup would be done for $1500 give or take a few.
magindat
11-20-2008, 06:29 AM
Rich, Just curious why you say it would be so much? If you're simply looking to go up/down, and not actually "lay out", it shouldn't be so bad?!?
The whole air setup would be done for $1500 give or take a few.
I'd use shockwaves up front and the controller with height sensors AND pressure sensors. The rest of the setup (valves and tanks and compressor) isn't bad.
magindat
11-20-2008, 06:33 AM
John, I had to hold a work lamp directly into the glovebox area to differentiate between BLACK and BROWN with PINK stripe ... Maybe the problem ? Just my experience so far with this conversion.
:cool4:
Finding the colors is the hardest part. They don't even show up good in the pics.
Probe Blue/Yel with ground and the compressor should run. If it don't you could have a bad fuse or relay. It's just the relay trigger.
Pink is the release +12 solenoid. Probe that with +12 and have someone listen for the 'click' by the compressor.
I did all this with the harness unplugged, then once I ID-ed everything, I cut, then plugged all back in.
Also, my sensor is unplugged as well.
And make sure you are sending the signals into the wires going into the car, not into the computer.
Marauder386
11-20-2008, 06:43 AM
All is good with the wiring for me as I now hear the click of the solenoids on the bags in release/down and in actuate/up I here the relay for the compressor clicking. So, I will get a new compressor and then figure out how to remove and replace same without removing DR's install ( I have his A/W in this one ).
:cool4:
PS : May remove F L tire and get to it that way ... idle thought ...
magindat
11-20-2008, 07:08 AM
All is good with the wiring for me as I now hear the click of the solenoids on the bags in release/down and in actuate/up I here the relay for the compressor clicking. So, I will get a new compressor and then figure out how to remove and replace same without removing DR's install ( I have his A/W in this one ).
:cool4:
PS : May remove F L tire and get to it that way ... idle thought ...
Never gonna happen. The compressor is in a 'bowl' of sorts and has to come up. Your A/W exchanger has to come out.
Marauder386
11-20-2008, 07:32 AM
Never gonna happen. The compressor is in a 'bowl' of sorts and has to come up. Your A/W exchanger has to come out.
Yeeehaw ! Okay, thanks for that info ... will hopefully be logical with its removal ...
:cool4:
Marauder386
12-02-2008, 12:05 PM
Well, I have replaced the air compressor with a known good one from RoadPig 3 ... WITH NO RESULTS ! I do still have the solenoids clicking so I guess that is a good sign... Totally and completely lost on what to do now ... :mad2: HELP ! HELP !
:cool4:
TooManyFords
12-02-2008, 01:04 PM
Just a quick update, the diagrams from Rich worked just fine. Mine is now on manual as well. The switch is hidden in the glovebox but I think I'm going to find a more user-friendly place for it along with putting the the factory ride height switch back in. Then I can override it when I want.
Another winter project...
yippie!
Marauder386
12-02-2008, 01:56 PM
Well, seems its a power problem to the compressor. When I direct wire it, it works great ! Down/lower mode works too ! At a loss now but I have its butt up off the new Nitto's ... Thanks for the feedback TMF's ... may follow your lead after I figure this out ... keep me posted please, Sir.
:cool4:
Richy04
12-08-2008, 05:52 PM
The controller for the compressor is behind the glove box if I remember correctly, check the controller module before you go crazy.
Marauderjack
12-09-2008, 05:28 AM
Well, seems its a power problem to the compressor. When I direct wire it, it works great ! Down/lower mode works too ! At a loss now but I have its butt up off the new Nitto's ... Thanks for the feedback TMF's ... may follow your lead after I figure this out ... keep me posted please, Sir.
:cool4:
I have a spare controller if you want to try it??:confused:
PM me and I'll send it over to ya.....:D
Marauderjack:burnout:
ctrlraven
03-05-2009, 08:28 PM
I'll have to look into this more cause I'm very interested in doing it.
ledzilla
05-03-2009, 06:53 PM
Did this little modification today, but to no avail. I can hear the solenoids click. But the compressor doesn't run. But, when I hit the switch to get it to inflate, I hear the engine lower the RPMs, and I see the volts drop on the voltmeter. If I were to take a guess, I'd say the power was flowing to the compressor, but the compressor just won't run. So would I be correct to assume that the compressor should be replaced?
ledzilla
08-27-2009, 02:52 PM
This is a bit of a thread bump... Anywho, I was wondering if anyone knew how to hook in an LED to indicate when the rear was at the proper height?
Jimimac43
08-27-2009, 03:13 PM
Rich, I don't want to hijack the thread but, how are you doing? do you still have the MM? Vince
ledzilla
09-04-2009, 05:18 PM
Any thoughts at all on adding an LED that illuminates at proper ride height?
ledzilla
09-21-2009, 05:20 PM
:bump::bump::bump:
4play
10-12-2009, 03:26 PM
how about installing a servo motor on the axle connected to the link with a seperate switch inside your car to control that, make the rod go up and down, that way you dont risk frying anything
bugsyc
02-22-2016, 05:59 AM
I know I'm bringing back an old thread but,I think it is relevant to my problem....I think this switch is a great idea...I do have some questions that I hope either the author or some other electrical wizards can help me with...
How do I supply -12V... I can find 12v power under the dash as well as grounds...But,negative 12v???Where would I be able to tap into that???
Please be patient with my ignorance...I just don't know how to find negative voltage....I have a feeling the my solenoids aren't opening to release air....How else can I test this????Is there a way to jump the wires at the compressor to trigger the solenoids????
fastblackmerc
02-22-2016, 08:53 AM
I know I'm bringing back an old thread but,I think it is relevant to my problem....I think this switch is a great idea...I do have some questions that I hope either the author or some other electrical wizards can help me with...
How do I supply -12V... I can find 12v power under the dash as well as grounds...But,negative 12v???Where would I be able to tap into that???
Please be patient with my ignorance...I just don't know how to find negative voltage....I have a feeling the my solenoids aren't opening to release air....How else can I test this????Is there a way to jump the wires at the compressor to trigger the solenoids????
Go back and read the instructions very very carefully. Concentrate on the Rich's blue wire in the description.
I believe all the wires you need are in the harness to the module.
bugsyc
02-22-2016, 10:10 AM
Thanks,you helped me clarify that....FBM...How can I test the solenoids to check if they are opening to release air???(without cutting wires,before
I go ahead and make the switch) Also how would I test the venting solenoid???It is part of the compressor assembly...Bare metal colored box two wires going in
http://www.partsgeek.com/assets/dimage/thumbn/5778-05445919-1390100.jpg
lifespeed
02-22-2016, 02:48 PM
Excellent information for those modifying their rear suspension.
bugsyc
02-23-2016, 04:58 AM
From what I read,appling 12v to the pink wire will lower the car....Is that correct??? See post#4.....
bugsyc
02-23-2016, 09:48 AM
how do I jump the wires in the vent solenoid...the box on the compressor assembly with two wires coming out...I think they are green and blue????http://www.partsgeek.com/assets/dimage/thumbn/5778-05445919-1390100.jpg
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