burping the system didnt work

[Mest30]

So I dont know if I did something wrong. The symptoms of the car are as follows. The water temp gets extremely high, near and even past the H. The heat takes forever to work. Once the water temp goes back down to normal, the heat starts to work. So I attempted to burp the system. I took off the bolt on the crossover tube and placed it back on, but didnt tighten in at all. I then started the car and waited for 20-25 minutes. I couldnt tell at the time if it worked or not and it was cold and windy out and combining that with the regular noise from the engine, I couldnt tell if air was coming out of the crossover tube. Obviously it wasnt because the next day I drove the car and the water temp went all the way up again and the heat took forever to get hot. So what am I doing wrong? Any help would be welcomed and appreciated. Thanks in advance.

[Zack]

Park the car on a steep incline first of all.

Then remove the crossover cap and jam a funnel in there so you can see whats going on.

As the car is running, you want to be sure you have the coolant level high enough so that flowing coolant is actually touching the funnel (so the air bubbles can exit)
After a good while the air bubbles will start to disappear (you will never get all of them, so dont sit there all day)
Yank the funnel out quickly and put the cap back on.

[Mest30]

Park on an incline with the front of the car raised or the back? Will I actually be able to see the air bubbles coming out of the funnel?

[Zack]

Park on an incline with the front of the car raised or the back? Will I actually be able to see the air bubbles coming out of the funnel?

Front up.

...yes, you will see the air bubbles.

[BAD MERC]

Funny thing is, I just replaced my thermostat and took care of the overheating issue. Now I have no heat - ever. No matter how long I run it and both hoses to the core are hot as all hell.

[Mest30]

Thanks Zack, you're the man! I'll try it over the weekend.

[RF Overlord]

I couldnt tell if air was coming out of the crossover tube.



As the car is running, you want to be sure you have the coolant level high enough so that flowing coolant is actually touching the funnel (so the air bubbles can exit)

^^^what Zack said^^^

If your coolant level was low to begin with, what you did actually did nothing. You need to add coolant through the bung in the crossover until it's full before you start the burping process. Disregard the level in the reservoir until the burping process is done.

[blazen71]

I filled the coolant, through the crossover tube, with the front end on jack stands. Worked on the first try!

[BlownMerc]

The important thing is, when filling the system after a spill-and-fill or service of the thermostat or any other component, to open the degas bottle cap but fill through the crossover tube until the bottle is full, put the cap on the bottle and continue to fill through the crossover until full. Then take it out on a good interstate run and let the water pump push all remaining air to the degas bottle. Top off and have a good one.

BADMERC, sounds like you have a temperature blend door/motor problem. If both of the hoses are hot and the coolant is full, it shouldn't be coolant related. Try a self test on the EATC. Start with the eatc off, key on (engine can be running) and then press "off" and "floor" simultaneiously then press "auto" within 3 seconds. You should get the LCD display running a circle on the display while the test is running. If there is a problem, you will get a 3 digit dtc, if no problem, every light on display will illuminate. That'll give you some place to go.

[Vortech347]

I pull the front of my car up on ramps. When it cools down a bit I take the cap off and let it sit for about an hour, come back and top it off. Then let it sit overnight. Come back and it'll take ALOT. Top it off and you're golden.

Everytime I tried it with the engine running coolant would go everywhere even if the engine was cold.

[Bobmiddle]

Need a little HELP here. I have a no heat issue I changed the thermostat and water pump about 5-6 mo ago. Have not had heat since. I have the car on jack stands right now. Funnel in crossover tube filled with fluid no more bubbles and I have filled with the motor on and off. Still NO HEAT. WTF

I have tried BlownMerc's test but EATC just turns on to auto. WTF again.

[Joey3571]

Hey folks. I just ran into an issue with my Merc. Had the oil filter adapter gasket replaced and evidently they took off the lower hose. Had the same issues everyone is having (no heat, running hot, yadda yadda yadda). I did the steep incline, fill through the crossover tube and replace thermo. I also took the hoses off the heater core and flushed with fresh water. Once I did all this, my Merc is back producing the heat and running cool. So Zack's info works (wish I had seen it before I had to pull out the engineering degree). If you are continuing to have problems after this, then you either have a bad heater core or a bad pump.

[Bobmiddle]

I have tried BlownMerc's test but EATC just turns on to auto. WTF again.

Got it to work and got code 024 and 025 any body know what they mean?

[Richy04]

There is an easy way to remove air bubbles, but it takes some home made parts. You must make an adapter which screws into the crossover tube bung that connects to a tube about a foot higher than the engine and attach a funnel to that (think of it as extending the fill hole 1 foot higher than the block), put the car on ramps and fill it, the coolant should always be about 8-10 inches higher than the home made tube, air will come out but not go back in. Make sure your home made tube does not thread past the bung so it doesnt interfere with the coolant flow thru the crossover tube or the air bubbles will go around it or get trapped next to the extended part of the tube you just made. It should thread only a few turns into the bung.

When you fill the system, you must make sure the heat is on and set at 90 degrees full blast or the air will get trapped in the core and voila, no heat!!

Fill the car as best you can, and keep topping off the system and never let the crossover extension tube you made run dry, it should always have 8-10 inches of coolant in it. After it takes no more, shut the car and allow it to cool, it will draw more in so keep topping off. Then restart and repeat until the system will not take any more coolant. Dont forget to fill the rad too!

If you are crafty, you can make an extension tube which has a valve at the bottom so you can close it to remove it with little spillage, otherwise you will have to put a towel under the crossover and un-thread the tube you made to contain the mess.


BTW, the best coolant I found out there is Honda Blue, stuff is awesome but expensive!!

[Bradley G]

I just use a funnel that tightly fits the hole in the crossover, patience and a big mess! :P

[Zack]

There is an easy way to remove air bubbles, but it takes some home made parts. You must make an adapter which screws into the crossover tube bung that connects to a tube about a foot higher than the engine and attach a funnel to that (think of it as extending the fill hole 1 foot higher than the block), put the car on ramps and fill it, the coolant should always be about 8-10 inches higher than the home made tube, air will come out but not go back in. Make sure your home made tube does not thread past the bung so it doesnt interfere with the coolant flow thru the crossover tube or the air bubbles will go around it or get trapped next to the extended part of the tube you just made. It should thread only a few turns into the bung.

When you fill the system, you must make sure the heat is on and set at 90 degrees full blast or the air will get trapped in the core and voila, no heat!!
Fill the car as best you can, and keep topping off the system and never let the crossover extension tube you made run dry, it should always have 8-10 inches of coolant in it. After it takes no more, shut the car and allow it to cool, it will draw more in so keep topping off. Then restart and repeat until the system will not take any more coolant. Dont forget to fill the rad too!

If you are crafty, you can make an extension tube which has a valve at the bottom so you can close it to remove it with little spillage, otherwise you will have to put a towel under the crossover and un-thread the tube you made to contain the mess.


BTW, the best coolant I found out there is Honda Blue, stuff is awesome but expensive!!

Sorry, thats just funny.

...and wrong :lol: :rofl:

[Richy04]

How is it wrong, if the heater control valve is closed on one end ( the feed) how does coolant get into the core? It can drain but not refill as it is only open on the return end when the heat is off at the EATC.

Fail

[Richy04]

http://i36.tinypic.com/2aeze6o.jpg

Here is a picture of a heater control valve, if its closed (eatc off or set for no heat), this formidable opponent is not open, thus no coolant can flow to the core. If one were to lose enough coolant in their system, the core will drain somewhat, but cant refill with the heating system off. When you fill the system with the core blocked off, the air becomes trapped in the core. Not on all vehicles, but certainly on these cars.

I guess you have another explanation for no heat when the system seems fine otherwise. Im all ears..

BTW, for the person who posted their initial problem in this thread, do what I said and you will be back on the road in no time with heat.

Both lines may be hot as they are both filled with coolant, but the core is somewhat empty, the air in it is stopping the flow of coolant to the return.

[Bobmiddle]

I think I got the Burping takencare of. But I ran the test on the EATC but I am getting Codes 024 ans 025 can they be the cause of no heat.

[Richy04]

024 Fault in blend door calibration during self test
025 Intermittent fault in blend door calibration

Be advised that this may not be an actual failure of the blend door motor, if the EATC bases the failure on interior temperature vs coolant and exterior temp, it may cause these faults. I would refill the system with the heat on this time, then remove the battery terminal for 15 minutes to reset the codes or clear them if you can and try again. It may have detected a temperature out of range and tripped those codes.

Just so you know, Ford doesnt have a guy standing around with a prestone container in his hand filling these cars at the factory on a set of ramps, they have an overhead or pumped tank of coolant which forces the coolant into the system.

Although, blend door motors do fail, before you have to rip the dash apart to fix it, try what I am saying, It can only save you some time and money.

[TooManyFords]

http://i36.tinypic.com/2aeze6o.jpg

Here is a picture of a heater control valve

Where is this valve hidden? Is it inside under the dash somewhere?

[Zack]

We dont have that valve.
And if we did, it would be under the hood like the old style vacuum diaphrams of the 70's that were connected to vacuum.

Richy04, in case you didnt know, the heater core is part of the cooling system and coolant is flowing constanaly in and out of it.
On a side note, if the MM indeed have that valve, do you honestly think any auto manufacturer would place that under the dash with rubber hose and hose clamps? ... that could potentially leak onto the passenger compartment?

..I think not!

[Cobra25]

I got air in my system the other day. ended up that #1- The postive wire to my electric water pump was loose . On your car you should check : #2-the O-Ring on the Bleeder valve my need to be replaced. If it is crushed or not on their correctly under presure you will loose antifreeze and air will get into your system.

[Richy04]

We dont have that valve.
And if we did, it would be under the hood like the old style vacuum diaphrams of the 70's that were connected to vacuum.

Richy04, in case you didnt know, the heater core is part of the cooling system and coolant is flowing constanaly in and out of it.
On a side note, if the MM indeed have that valve, do you honestly think any auto manufacturer would place that under the dash with rubber hose and hose clamps? ... that could potentially leak onto the passenger compartment?

..I think not!


I never said the valve was under the dash, please dont misquote me.

Being in the auto business for quite some time, I wouldnt put that in the car anyway, Ford Products have enough problems with heater cores leaking into the car. In fact, all we ever stocked in our warehouse was heater cores for Fords and the question to the customer when they inquired about a heater core replacement was "which Ford product do you have".

Anyway, its quite possible that the Marauder doesnt have one, but thats the part for the Marauder that is specified in the lookup. I never had any trouble with mine so I havent looked.

The part number is YG238 and here is the list of vehicles that have it.

Fits these Vehicles



1987-1991 Ford Country Squire
1992-1994 Ford Crown Victoria
1982-1986 Ford LTD
1987-1991 Ford LTD Crown Victoria
1983-1997 Ford Mustang
1982-1984 Lincoln Continental
1986-1995 Lincoln Town Car
1982-1994 Mercury Grand Marquis
2003-2004 Mercury Marauder

[lucenti]

what Zack said heat on 90 fan running, front end raised. with car at running temp loosened bung alittle steam out, loosened more, coolent comming out slowly then it stoped. removed completely, watched coolent, little bubbles started finding there way out, then bigger bubbles, proberly 30 min of wait time.... air pockets can do funny things to a system. ever have gazzz, little air comes out, alittle relief. major air evacuates major relief.
remember to K>I>S>S>

[justbob]

I've opened my system a couple of times and have never had to jack up the front. Level ground and patience has always worked fine for me.

[Vortech347]

I know for a FACT that part is not on my 90 mustang. I've had that car completly torn apart. I'm pretty sure the Marauders do not have this part either.

[Drewstang]

Yeah, your info is wrong. I've owned 10 Mustangs from 89 to 99 and never once saw a valve that looks like this. I think Explorers use them, but not Mustangs or Marauders. BTW, my heat is not working after a burping on Saturday with the front of the car 12" in the air and heat set to 90*.

[TooManyFords]

Look by the firewall and make sure there isn't a kink in either hose going into the heater core. A kink and you get no heat.

I think I remember seeing this tip when Zack to a car to a dyno and he tried to freeze Mac on the trip there and back.

:D

[hwy73]

The part pictured in post #21 does not control water flow. It merely "senses" coolant temperature in the heater hose. When the coolant warms, it allows power to the blower and vacuum to the outside air door, hence the electrical connection and vacuum hookups. This was done on the Auto-AC systems of the 70's and 80's to prevent the heater from blowing cold air. The valve of the 70's did indeed control coolant flow through the heater core and closed off flow when A/C was selected on manual systems. They operated on vacuum. These valves did in fact stick in one position (usually closed, causing no heat) from corrosion quite frequently.

[Richy04]

I guess the use of this valve in a MM is a typo on the web. If you can get at the blend door, you may be able to get it working again. Someone mentioned that they stick if you live in an area where heat is of little use at times.