Intermittent Power Steering Failure

[dbrown4bbl]

Hey, Y'all:

I have a 2003 Marauder (BLACK, WHAT ELSE?), 50K miles, and I'm the original owner.

Car has an intermittent power steering failure going on - Thank G-d for the extended warranty. So far, the Ford dealer has replaced the P/S pump, the steering rack, not sure what else and they are still experiencing the same intermittent failure that I had when I brought it in.

ANY IDEAS? ANYBODY HAD THE SAME PROBLEM? HEEEEELP!

[TooManyFords]

The box behind the glovebox that controls the air bags also controls the variable power steering. It may have a loose connector or need to be replaced.

[Dr Caleb]

I seem to remember that people have had problems with the variable pressure valve as well.

[03blackvegas]

The air suspension and variable assist power steering each have a Module, if that goes, so goes the respective functions. Ask me how I know.

[dbrown4bbl]

How do you know?

[Marauderjack]

I have a spare module if you want to try it....PM me if interested and I'll get it to you!!:D

[03blackvegas]

I recently had both MODULES replaced, my air suspension no longer worked, and my steering was hard most of the time. The only thing that needed to be done to get both systems working again was to replace both MODULES. The car is like "brand new" now. The air ride module was $303.00, the steering one was $107.00, labor was $135.00 for each.

[dbrown4bbl]

You guys are great - thanks for the generosity and offers. At this point, the dealer still has the car and we'll see what they say tomorrow. But I'm goona keep y'all in mind in case they boot it.

A very Happy Holidays to all you Marauder owners out there.

DAB

[dbrown4bbl]

The local Ford dealer has now determined that it is the module that requires replacement, and has ordered one. Great timing, as I haven't had the car for a week (Xmas), and may not have it for another week (NY) unless they get the module by Wednesday am.

I spoke with the shop foreman about the efficacy of this forum; he seemed singularly unimpressed, even though I told him what the problem was (from all of your comments) before he figgered it out. So it goes.

Stay tuned for the latest in the continuing saga.

DAB

[dbrown4bbl]

OK, so, by the time they were finished, the Ford dealer had replaced the power steering pump, the steering rack, traced the wires and tested them, and, finally, replaced the Variable Assist Power Steering (VAPS) AND Rear Air Suspension (RAS) module. On my car (2003 300A, 836 of 7839), the VAPS/RAS module was a single module (others on this forum had referred to two separate modules), although it has two separate plugs.

All of this work has been covered by the Ford ExtraCare extended warranty, including ten days of rental car. My total expense was the $100 deductible.

Also thanks to Brian for determining my build-sequence number.

A very Happy New Year, a year of peace, health and prosperity, to all you MM owners out there.

DAB

[USN_Lifer]

After making several attempts to search for threads relating to my air suspension problems and intermittently tight steering, this one seems to have the best answer. I'm experiencing all the same problems...tight steering from time to time and air suspsension stopped working. Looks like another trip to the dealer. Anyone know if these modules can be replaced easily in my own garage or is it something better left in the hands of a professional?

[magindat]

The box behind the glovebox that controls the air bags also controls the variable power steering. It may have a loose connector or need to be replaced.

Wrong - tried it

[magindat]

I recently had both MODULES replaced, my air suspension no longer worked, and my steering was hard most of the time. The only thing that needed to be done to get both systems working again was to replace both MODULES. The car is like "brand new" now. The air ride module was $303.00, the steering one was $107.00, labor was $135.00 for each.

They are one module. I have pictures.

[magindat]

After making several attempts to search for threads relating to my air suspension problems and intermittently tight steering, this one seems to have the best answer. I'm experiencing all the same problems...tight steering from time to time and air suspsension stopped working. Looks like another trip to the dealer. Anyone know if these modules can be replaced easily in my own garage or is it something better left in the hands of a professional?

Cake. Behind the glove box.

[magindat]

OK, so, by the time they were finished, the Ford dealer had replaced the power steering pump, the steering rack, traced the wires and tested them, and, finally, replaced the Variable Assist Power Steering (VAPS) AND Rear Air Suspension (RAS) module. On my car (2003 300A, 836 of 7839), the VAPS/RAS module was a single module (others on this forum had referred to two separate modules), although it has two separate plugs.

All of this work has been covered by the Ford ExtraCare extended warranty, including ten days of rental car. My total expense was the $100 deductible.

Also thanks to Brian for determining my build-sequence number.

A very Happy New Year, a year of peace, health and prosperity, to all you MM owners out there.

DAB

Replace the rear air suspension height adjuster/sender. It's what fried the module in the first place.

[USN_Lifer]

They are one module. I have pictures.

Could you post them?

[USN_Lifer]

Replace the rear air suspension height adjuster/sender. It's what fried the module in the first place.

Is that good advice for everyone or just for his particular case?

[dbrown4bbl]

Not sure about the cause of the failure, but swapping the module was def the fix. Given how it was described to me by the shop, the location of the module requires some disassembly of the dashboard, so while it might hurt, it might also be the best bet.

I'd like to know more about the sensor thing that the other poster said was the cause of the fried module. Is replacement of that sensor something that can be easily accomplished by an owner?

[USN_Lifer]

Given how it was described to me by the shop, the location of the module requires some disassembly of the dashboard, so while it might hurt, it might also be the best bet.

Thanks, that's what I was wondering. Advice of fixing something yourself is always subjective to your own skills, time, tools, etc. Whereas I'm comfortable doing most light repairs, the idea of lying on my back underneath cars or upside down on the floorboard for more than a few minutes does not excite me nor does it do my ailing back any good. If it's only $100 to have done professionally then I may go that route. I would need to see some detailed instructions w/photos to determine if this is something I want to tackle on my own. I did the o-ring repair just fine...if that helps clarify what I'm capable/willing to do but that was with the help of some very detailed instructions.

[magindat]

Is that good advice for everyone or just for his particular case?

As it wears and the grease goes away it shorts to ground. Blows up the module.

[magindat]

Not sure about the cause of the failure, but swapping the module was def the fix. Given how it was described to me by the shop, the location of the module requires some disassembly of the dashboard, so while it might hurt, it might also be the best bet.

I'd like to know more about the sensor thing that the other poster said was the cause of the fried module. Is replacement of that sensor something that can be easily accomplished by an owner?

BS. It's right behind the glove box. It's cake. 15 minutes if you're slow.

Yes, an owner with long arms can replace the sensor. I'm a little claustrophobic and it's kinda hard for me, but I can do it.

[USN_Lifer]

Ok, so I just took the plunge and ordered the part from my local dealer. Kinda got a hard time about it and was asked if I had the car properly diagnosed. Then I was quickly told they would not give a refund on the part if its not the problem, yadda yadda....like I need to be given an attitude when I'm spending $300. Geez. Kids these days.

[rayjay]

Ok, so I just took the plunge and ordered the part from my local dealer. Kinda got a hard time about it and was asked if I had the car properly diagnosed. Then I was quickly told they would not give a refund on the part if its not the problem, yadda yadda....like I need to be given an attitude when I'm spending $300. Geez. Kids these days.

Next time order your parts online if you have the part#. No BS from the unbothed and you will get a better price.

[USN_Lifer]

Next time order your parts online if you have the part#. No BS from the unbothed and you will get a better price.

I tried searching for the part number and buying online but this part is obscure so I didn't have any luck.

[rayjay]

I tried searching for the part number and buying online but this part is obscure so I didn't have any luck.

Oh, one of those "dealer only" parts. That blows :mad2:

[Aren Jay]

..........

[252life]

I hate the speed sensitive variable boost.

All or none, I would perfer all all the time, but not this variable boost.

Hate it!


If you disconnect the electrical connection from the reduction valve on the P/S line.
You will get full pressure all the time and super light steering.

[Marauderjack]

If you disconnect the electrical connection from the reduction valve on the P/S line.
You will get full pressure all the time and super light steering.

And you WILL be all over the highway and most likely in a ditch.....in time!!!:argue:

I had a '98 CV that was this way for 4 years and dangerous.....while changing the oil one day I saw a plug hanging and full of dirt!!:cool: Cleaned it and plugged it in and VOILA....speed sensitive steering!!:beer:

They must have left it unplugged at the factory and I drove around 4 years before I discovered it!!:shake:

Aren....try it....YOU may like it but I sure didn't!!:shake:

[magindat]

I hate the speed sensitive variable boost.

All or none, I would perfer all all the time, but not this variable boost.

Hate it!


If you disconnect the electrical connection from the reduction valve on the P/S line.
You will get full pressure all the time and super light steering.


And you WILL be all over the highway and most likely in a ditch.....in time!!!:argue:

I had a '98 CV that was this way for 4 years and dangerous.....while changing the oil one day I saw a plug hanging and full of dirt!!:cool: Cleaned it and plugged it in and VOILA....speed sensitive steering!!:beer:

They must have left it unplugged at the factory and I drove around 4 years before I discovered it!!:shake:

Aren....try it....YOU may like it but I sure didn't!!:shake:

Thank you all three for this. Perhaps I can find a way to bypass the computer by placing a resisted voltage on that solenoid in order to have something between super light and super heavy for steering - all the time.

[TooManyFords]

Thank you all three for this. Perhaps I can find a way to bypass the computer by placing a resisted voltage on that solenoid in order to have something between super light and super heavy for steering - all the time.

Since I don't have a factory PCM anymore, when you figure this out please share. Mine is like rolling the dice. Every once and a while it rolls snake-eyes and I get full power steering, while the other 97.3% of the time I get none.

Thanks in advance Rich.

[Greg]

Latest info on steering. Still no luck. My code reader says no connection (same for the abs unit) but that could be because it just doesn't read it. Took out the radio and looked for damaged wire everywhere on the entire car including under the dash. Nothing.

Interestingly, if you pull the VAPS solenoid valve connection on the rack, it makes no difference. I thought it was supposed to go to full assist. It does not. If I put a large resister on the valve wire harness to act as a solenoid, I do get around 8volts at idle and less than one volt above 60mph. This has me thinking the system works it is just that the valve may be stuck.

Trying the get the solenoid valve off the rack sounds hard and apparently you can't get a new one. I am not even sure what you get if you order a new rack and pinion.

So, should I try to take it off and clean it? If it fails, do I just get a new rack? If so, how does the VAP work?

I was eventually thinking of sending my car to Marty in GA to check out the engine knock, etc. Perhaps he can handle this as well. I need to call him ....

[Drewstang]

I just went through this whole ordeal about 6 months ago. Just replace the rack, but be careful who you order one from as they don't always include the VAPS solenoid. I bit the bullet and got a good discount on a Ford reman rack.