MM Stall Problem!!!!

[60sec_assassin]

I saw the other thread on a MM stalling but my stall problem started last summer. It started with the battery, noticed my volt meter running at a little over 12v with the car runinng so I replaced the battery, everything was fine for a few months then it would shut off if i was at low idle or at low idle in a turn at a light...(I've become an expert at re-starting in "N" and slamming back to drive". Did an alternator check and found it was bad so i replaced it today with a stock 130amp, later this evening i took it for a drive and everything is fine until i noticed while in park if i turn the wheel to either side my volt meter surges from 14 to 12v??? What could be the problem. After installing the new alternator i disconnected the battery while running and it stayed at about 14v....could there be another problem:confused:

[TooManyFords]

I'd check the grounds and the battery.

[Blk Mamba]

you said in the turn lane, and then you said if you turn the wheel a little, that the voltmeter fluctuates. Does the power steering pump contribute to the problem, or is it the stalling problem.

[Seneca]

I saw the other thread on a MM stalling but my stall problem started last summer. It started with the battery, noticed my volt meter running at a little over 12v with the car runinng so I replaced the battery, everything was fine for a few months then it would shut off if i was at low idle or at low idle in a turn at a light...(I've become an expert at re-starting in "N" and slamming back to drive". Did an alternator check and found it was bad so i replaced it today with a stock 130amp, later this evening i took it for a drive and everything is fine until i noticed while in park if i turn the wheel to either side my volt meter surges from 14 to 12v??? What could be the problem. After installing the new alternator i disconnected the battery while running and it stayed at about 14v....could there be another problem:confused:
My 03 had this problem dealer never did get it fixed they even extended my 36k mile warranty till 50k miles cause it was such an ongoing problem they never did get my stalling issue fixed, They ended up giving me a killer trade i couldnt refuse on my 04. let us know what you find when u fix this issue. I feel your pain, Seneca

[60sec_assassin]

My 03 had this problem dealer never did get it fixed they even extended my 36k mile warranty till 50k miles cause it was such an ongoing problem they never did get my stalling issue fixed, They ended up giving me a killer trade i couldnt refuse on my 04. let us know what you find when u fix this issue. I feel your pain, Seneca
Well today i took the car to advanced auto for another alternator check, the alternator is fine, but when i put a load on the system by turning on the lights, letting down windows and the hazards...the volt meter in my car surged down to 12v but the actual alternator test machine showed that I had a constant 14v holding steady...could the voltmeter in my car be the culprit??

[Blackened300a]

It's possible, that OEM gauge isn't very accurate. I replaced my gauges with real autometer's and they work great. I show 14V all the time where my stock gauge showed only 12.5 - 13 volt's.

I remember hearing something about a sensor that raises the RPM's when you turn the wheel's all the way to one side.
Maybe someone else know's more about this.

[Glenn]

Your idle is too low - raise it to 800 rpm.

Glenn :burnout:

[Smokie]

The gauge itself will not cause the stalling, you didn't say whether your car continues to stall or you are concerned about what the gauge reads.

Do your rpm's drop when in idle and you turn the steering wheel? What is your rpm in drive with foot on the brake, your rpm's should be at least 650 in drive, I prefer 700 rpm's in drive.

It is normal for the volt gauge to drop to 12.5 volts if you are idling in drive with a load on the system, it should return to 14 when you raise rpms above 700 rpm's.

[Fourth Horseman]

Your idle is too low - raise it to 800 rpm.

Glenn :burnout:

+1

I had an occasional low-rpm issue like that, say I was turning sharply in a parking lot or something, the RPMs would drop low enough that I'd get a dash light (check engine or charge light, can't recall). Even died on me once. I raised the "in gear" RPM to 750 and haven't had a single problem since.

[60sec_assassin]

How do I raise rpms?? Would i have to get my MM retuned or do it mechanically? Granted it hasn't stalled since i replaced the alternator( this past saturday) maybe the stock voltmeter is the problem but i rather adjust the rpm vice buying a new meter.;)

[Zack]

IIRC, you have a vortech, right?

You need to increase the values of the IAC Transfer function and the stalling will be ancient history.

[Fourth Horseman]

How do I raise rpms??

You can do it with a hand-held tuner like an SCT XCal2/3 or a Diablo. If you have one of those it's an option when you flash the car. You can select in gear idle RPM and out of gear idle RPM. I set both to 750 and haven't had any issues since. Takes about 5 minutes to do the flash.

[Dennis Reinhart]

Ronnie made it here today, and we found a bad serpentine belt, the last shop broke two bolts off in the mount, we were lucky to get them out, and then we took it for a test drive I thought the cars timing chains were hitting the cover it was a terrible noise, well long story short it was the cats breaking apart, so the car is headed to the exhaust shop in the morning, and I will probably recheck the tune on the Dyno.:beer:

[babbage]

Ronnie made it here today, and we found a bad serpentine belt, the last shop broke two bolts off in the mount, we were lucky to get them out, and then we took it for a test drive I thought the cars timing chains were hitting the cover it was a terrible noise, well long story short it was the cats breaking apart, so the car is headed to the exhaust shop in the morning, and I will probably recheck the tune on the Dyno.:beer:

You the man Dennis. Better the cats being bad than timing chains. Ugg. Thats a job and a half.