Car doesn't turn over? HELP!

[MinnesotaMuscle]

Alright, went to go leave for work, jumped in the car and....nothing.

I turn the key forward and everything lights up like normal, turn it all the way forward to crank it and nothing.... doesn't turn over. everything else is normal. Fully charged battery, and at no point does the security light flash rapidly or abnormally.

I have had to leave the car outside for the last couple days as I have been working on another project in the garage, and during this time the weather has been really weird. Bouncing back and forth from freezing to rain back to freezing.

I've tried tapping on the starter with a hammer thinking it might be stuck but no luck there. The starter is hard to get to as it's in the dirt /slushy driveway. Also checked all fuses, under the dash and under the hood, all good.

Also messed with trying to start it in neutral, and played with the shifter while trying to get it to start, thinking maybe it had a neutral safety switch, that didn't work.

Tried all three keys I have for it thinking one might be bad, nope still nothing... Any other ideas before I have to pay a but load to have this thing flat bedded to the dealership?

[CBT]

Same thing happened to me, exact same thing, a couple years ago. As a matter of fact, it was the first thing that ever went wrong with the car. And guess what? It was the battery.

[bigmerc2003]

Starter could have just went, happened to my Grandmas grand Marquis, she went to the store fine and came out it was dead. Watch the headlights when you turn the key, if they dim a lot it could be a connection, if there is no change then the starter would probably be toast, sorry

[TiTo35]

I've tried tapping on the starter with a hammer thinking it might be stuck but no luck there. The starter is hard to get to as it's in the dirt /slushy driveway.

I am not sure if you tried tapping the starter WHILE someone cranked. I was always told it was a two man job, BUT from what you are saying it doesnt sound like the starter. You said it been freezing raining, are YOU sure its not the battery...mine was making the clicking noise on start up and all the lights came on...I just needed a battery.

[Blackened300a]

Same thing happened to me, exact same thing, a couple years ago. As a matter of fact, it was the first thing that ever went wrong with the car. And guess what? It was the battery.

+1 I had the exact thing happen to me as well. I had voltage but no amp's in the battery to crank.

[MinnesotaMuscle]

Same thing happened to me, exact same thing, a couple years ago. As a matter of fact, it was the first thing that ever went wrong with the car. And guess what? It was the battery.

Man I wish, but power windows, headlights EVERYTHING work like normal, no slowness to the windows that kind of thing....

Plus it had a brand new battery put in about 1.5yrs ago, not the original....

[MinnesotaMuscle]

+1 I had the exact thing happen to me as well. I had voltage but no amp's in the battery to crank.

Anyway to test the amps with the voltage meter?

Would it jump start with this issue?

[MinnesotaMuscle]

I am not sure if you tried tapping the starter WHILE someone cranked. I was always told it was a two man job, BUT from what you are saying it doesnt sound like the starter. You said it been freezing raining, are YOU sure its not the battery...mine was making the clicking noise on start up and all the lights came on...I just needed a battery.

I guess anythings possible, but absolutely no noise when I try to crank it, no clicking ticking or the like... Its like something is bypassing it, keeping it from even attempting to start, hence the no noise when trying to crank it...

[MinnesotaMuscle]

Just ran out and checked with the multimeter and it showed that it had 12.95 volts...

[Motorhead350]

Check how well the battery is connected. It could be loose actually... it's happened to me a few times.

[bigmerc2003]

Just ran out and checked with the multimeter and it showed that it had 12.95 volts...


Volts are great but amps start you up! It takes less amps to run windows locks radio ect but when it comes time to start the car the started draws a lot of amps, thats why in colder weather a 700 or 1000 amp battery will fire you right up. Try the light trick, if the lights do not dim then look to the starter as youhave power for everything else.

[MinnesotaMuscle]

I'll switch out the battery from my truck tomorrow and see what happens, otherwise I have to figure out how the heck to push this car up hill into my garage to really get to the starter!

[Rocknthehawk]

Did you take it out of park, and then give the shifter a good push back into park? I've had that problem on a column shift vehicle before...not sure if it's the same for console shifts.

Also check the cables for corrosion.....my project vehicle wouldn't start with the key...after replacing everything (ignition, neutral saftey, battery, starter, solenoid), It was the cables.

[MinnesotaMuscle]

Did you take it out of park, and then give the shifter a good push back into park? I've had that problem on a column shift vehicle before...not sure if it's the same for console shifts.

Also check the cables for corrosion.....my project vehicle wouldn't start with the key...after replacing everything (ignition, neutral saftey, battery, starter, solenoid), It was the cables.

Yep, ran that shifter in and out good and hard a few times, along with trying it in Neutral, didn't do anything but that's EXACTLY what it was acting like the problem was....

Once I get the starter out, I'll try and manually run it, if it works and it wasn't the battery, I'm going into the center counsel after that neutral safety switch!

WHY OWW WHY didn't they put spots on these cars for towing! Just an access to something in the front without jacking up the body....

[sd8683]

Can you check amperage with your multimeter? It's worth a shot...

[MinnesotaMuscle]

Not sure to be honest, is that the DCA (Direct Current Amps)setting? Just not wise in the ways of a multimeter...

[sd8683]

Not sure to be honest, is that the DCA (Direct Current Amps)setting? Just not wise in the ways of a multimeter...

...............

[CKMustangCobra]

Don't try to measure 600+ DCA with a multimeter.

You need to load test the battery. Take the battery to autozone or something and have them test it... LOAD test it. Load testing will test the amp output. If the battery checks out... start tracing the starting system.

Solenoid clicking when the key is turned? Might even try to get brave with a jumper cable and tap the starter directly to the battery.

[Rocknthehawk]

Don't try to measure 600+ DCA with a multimeter.

You need to load test the battery. Take the battery to autozone or something and have them test it... LOAD test it. Load testing will test the amp output. If the battery checks out... start tracing the starting system.

Solenoid clicking when the key is turned? Might even try to get brave with a jumper cable and tap the starter directly to the battery.


Don't do that. If you don't have enough voltage in the battery, you risk killing the starter.

[MinnesotaMuscle]

Don't try to measure 600+ DCA with a multimeter.

You need to load test the battery. Take the battery to autozone or something and have them test it... LOAD test it. Load testing will test the amp output. If the battery checks out... start tracing the starting system.

Solenoid clicking when the key is turned? Might even try to get brave with a jumper cable and tap the starter directly to the battery.


Yep I Goggled it to learn how and figured out my Multimeter wont take enough amps. So that's a no go.

Will swap batteries in the morning and while I have it out I'm going to run it to Napa and find out how it checks out, then start going towards the starter. Anyone have any experience taking one out of these cars? I've taken out dozens but never on something like this. Just going to pull it to test it....

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

So you did check the negative and positive connectors to not having any residue or just being loose right? This is a chronic problem on my old car and happened a week ago on my rauder.

[MinnesotaMuscle]

So you did check the negative and positive connectors to not having any residue or just being loose right? This is a chronic problem on my old car and happened a week ago on my rauder.

On the battery yes, can't get to the starter at its current location...

[lincolnpimp]

Corrosion between battery terminals and cable connectors. Remove, Clean, Tighten. Try then.

[MinnesotaMuscle]

Your not going to believe this..... Went out this morning to try and jump start it first. I got in the car to pull the hood latch and thought, what the heck lets try it. FIRED RIGHT UP! Just like normal it started.... Now I'm confused and a little concerned that this could happen again, but next time not in my driveway. You guys ever hearing of this???

I shut it off and restarted it about six times and it works like normal. I guess the only thing to do is check the connection on the starter, but when I was tapping on the starter with a hammer yesterday I also tapped the wire with the handle and it appeared to be snug, but I'll check it anyway once I put the kids down for a nap.

[Blackened300a]

Loose connection. Check your grounds too. I had a loose ground on the front of my engine which I noticed when doing my cam cover install.

[CKMustangCobra]

Don't do that. If you don't have enough voltage in the battery, you risk killing the starter.

Just a tap won't hurt anything. If you tap it and the starter clicks you know the starter will do something when the circuit is complete. This means the problem is in the circuit and not the starter/battery.

I wouldn't try to start the car in this manner or even try to turn it over... just a tap.

Limited tools/space/time you need to get creative without hurting yourself or equipment.

[Rocknthehawk]

I think we'll agree to disagree.

I killed my first replacement starter first try doing that. Just a tap to check if it was in fact working, and it killed it. Still spun fine, but burned up the solenoid used to push the gear out.

[Odinson]

You should have something like this in your garage.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=963 08

You place the ring around one the wires to the battery. One person starts the car, and the other watches the amps. Not sure about the the spec on the MM, but if it's not in the hundreds the battery is weak.

[CKMustangCobra]

I think we'll agree to disagree.

I killed my first replacement starter first try doing that. Just a tap to check if it was in fact working, and it killed it. Still spun fine, but burned up the solenoid used to push the gear out.

The solenoid accepts the same current from the same source as the starter motor does.

The solenoid will only take as much current as it needs to perform it's job.

Maybe you tapped it in the wrong spot or something.

I use this method often on marine engines that have a TON of corrosion. If the starter didn't work... the starter was bad.

Dunno.

[CKMustangCobra]

You should have something like this in your garage.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=963 08

You place the ring around one the wires to the battery. One person starts the car, and the other watches the amps. Not sure about the the spec on the MM, but if it's not in the hundreds the battery is weak.

You aren't going to buy a amp clamp that will measure close to the DCA of a starting system on an engine for $10. They are closer to $200. That might one you posted might be able to read like 20 ACA and maybe 5 DCA.

[Odinson]

http://www.tpi-store.com/product.php?p=tpi_275&product=110302&category=432 (http://www.aikencolon.com/Ideal-61-746-61746-True-RMS-Clamp-Pro-Clamp-Meters-600-Amp_p_912-531.html)

This one claims 400 amp. Would that do it? $145.

For some reason I though amp ratings where for inline tests, not for the induction readings. It's just measuring a magnetic field right?

[CKMustangCobra]

http://www.tpi-store.com/product.php?p=tpi_275&product=110302&category=432 (http://www.aikencolon.com/Ideal-61-746-61746-True-RMS-Clamp-Pro-Clamp-Meters-600-Amp_p_912-531.html)

This one claims 400 amp. Would that do it? $145.

For some reason I though amp ratings where for inline tests, not for the induction readings. It's just measuring a magnetic field right?

The link you posted shows me that it will read up to 600 ACA... not DCA. If you try to read a higher amperage than rated... it won't blow up or anything, just give an inaccurate reading or an "Out Of Range" reading.

Finding equipment for measuring that much current in DC is expensive.

This is the cheap one I have.

http://www.waresdirect.com/products/Commercial-Products/Greenlee/Acdc-Amp216937?trackURL=nextag

It will read up to 1000 DCA which is plenty for most electrical starting systems out there and should be plenty for the starting system in a Marauder.

What you need to do it have a friend sit in the car with the key and signal him to start the engine. Clamp the positive or negative lead with the amp clamp and set it to read the highest and hold. If all the connections are good and the battery is strong and the starter motor is strong it should flash in the 500A range and settle down to the 200A range until the engine starts.

[Odinson]

I think I'd better upgrade my gear at home. I never had to use it like this yet! Thanks. :)

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

Your not going to believe this..... Went out this morning to try and jump start it first. I got in the car to pull the hood latch and thought, what the heck lets try it. FIRED RIGHT UP! Just like normal it started.... Now I'm confused and a little concerned that this could happen again, but next time not in my driveway. You guys ever hearing of this???

I shut it off and restarted it about six times and it works like normal. I guess the only thing to do is check the connection on the starter, but when I was tapping on the starter with a hammer yesterday I also tapped the wire with the handle and it appeared to be snug, but I'll check it anyway once I put the kids down for a nap.

I think it's just corrosion build up in between the posts and the connectors, ever so slightly where it's just to the point where it won't turn over your car but will act like the battery is fine (lights, radio etc). Take them off and clean them up good, put back on snugly and you're good to go. Ironically it happened to my Lincoln the day after I first posted here.