NEW SHAFT A MUST w/ 4:10's

[mungce]

Been discusing this with some other members and wanted to know if you guys who have put a D.Reinhart /chip/plugs/stat/ and Fords 4: 10's think that the OEM drive shaft must go if I plan on using 4: 10's. I realise that if supercharging or even 4:30's were added it would be the way to go. Since I din't plan on the " full bore " 450h.p. Vortex or other hi-h.p add ons at this time, what is my best bet............stay with OEM shaft or get one from Dennis ?

Jim Williams
Ft.Worth

[sailsmen]

I currently do not have the MMX shaft. I do not regularly drive above 90mph.

I have dirven a MM with the same mods but stock gears and the MMX, it is significantly smoother.

I think for every day driving the sway bar would be before the MMX.

I do plan on the MMX in January when I get some $$$.

[MAD-3R]

^^What He said^^

I have the 4.10's and a bigger engine on top of it, but sence I rarely go over 90, I'm not worrying about it.

[mungce]

I just don't know.....right after I got my MM( 08/02), I have had my 300A to 135MPH in pure stock form ( nice lonely interstate ) and I didn't notice any shimmer, or even a drop in power, I just started to back off as I was worried about all I had heard with the drive shaft problems. Could Mercury have put out some early model Marauders without the speed limited chip ? Guess I could send the OEM to Dennis and see if it has been limited..................

Jim Williams

[Hemlock]

I LIKE THE BIG NUMBERS , SO WHEN DENNIS SENT ME THE STAGE ONE PACKAGE THE H.D. SHAFT WAS INCLUDED . NO VIBES UP TO 140+ MPH .

[Logan]

The difference in smootheness between a drivetrain equipped with a MMX shaft and one without is significant. It's vibrating more than you think it does as others have eluded to.

Once you put the MMX shaft on, the driveline vibration felt is significantly reduced.

[Marauderman]

my.o2 ct worth :

With stage I - I feel the OEM shaft is ok , as long as you keep it below 130MPH...

If you plan on alot of 1/4 mile runs or maybe alot of runs in the upper three digits---get it replaced as indicated here by others.....otherwise , stay with the OEM.....

[merc]

I am curious if anyone has statistical information concerning the weigh of the two drive shafts mentioned in this thread. I understand that the O.E.M unit is aluminum and is considerably lighter then a standard drive shaft, but I don’t know if composition matters. On the other hand SHM is advertising a two-piece steel drive shaft that is very pricy. Overlooking the price and concentrating on technology what is the upside between single shafts compared to a two-piece shaft?

[Zack]

Throw it in the trash, its junk.

[merc]

Originally posted by Zack
Throw it in the trash, its junk.

Ok, that's simple instructions for anyone to follow. Now, all I have to do is find the cash to purchase the new shaft.

[JET]

Originally posted by Zack
Throw it in the trash, its junk.

Zack what shaft are you talking about?
SHM
OEM
Metal Matrix

[BillyGman]

the stock shaft was fine w/the 4.10 gears up to and including 120MPH. I had no vibrations at all. It wasn't until I installed the 4.56 gears that the stock shaft began vibrating(which began at 90MPH). I installed the Dynotech shaft, and now It's vibration free again w/the 4.56 gears(up to 120MPH). But I can't say for sure if it's the aftermarket shaft really being of a better construction or simply that it's balanced at a higher speed. I say that because if I take the car past 120MPH w/the 4.56's, I do begin to hear that vibration again. So w/the Dynotech shaft I've gained 30MPH over the OEM shaft. This doesn't concern me since I'm not into driving faster than 120MPH, and even that's not something that I do more than perhaps 2 or 3 times a year.

[Logan]

He's referring to the stock shaft.

[schuvwj]

I have 4:30's with a stock shaft and I have not experienced any vibrations up to 120mph, thats fast enough for me. If I was going to spend additional money in this area I would find a shop that can balance your stock shaft to your requirements, (120, 130, 140mph plus).

I do think that small vibrations that are not detectable by your butt can cause problems over a long period of time depending on your RWHP level and driving habits.

You decide!

[mungce]

I just got the 4:10's in and I have 0 shudder or any unusual nioses at speeds up to 125. I didn't take it any faster as the road wasn't safe and I rarely drive that fast anyway. I had noticed that the OEM shaft had been balanced, by the factory, I would guess.

Thanks for all your replys to this now dead thread !!

Jim Williams

[SergntMac]

Originally posted by mungce
I had noticed that the OEM shaft had been balanced, by the factory, I would guess. Thanks for all your replys to this now dead thread !! Jim Williams

It was my observation a year ago, Jim, that the OEM shaft is indeed "balanced" on the production line. However, that "balance" was achieved under a "less than precise" manner that does not please me. It may be a blessing that I am fussy about this stuff, it may be a curse. Honestly, I don't know, and frankly, I don't care to know.

On the assembly line, the yoke is checked for balance and color coded. The flange is checked for balance and color coded. The U-joints, and the drive shaft itself, are likewise checked for balance, and likewise color coded. As these parts come together, all the assembly line monkies need to do, is color match the components.

I did not, and do not, believe this color code matching solves the problem. It was (back then) further aggravated by owners who knew no better, and failed to index their drive shaft before removing it from the car. This opened the door for them to restore their drive shaft 180 degrees out of balance, and just plain tear everything up in a very short time, thus an early warning to the balance issue, and some slight misdirection, which caused me to look into things, albeit last year.

Y'all need to take a peek at your drive line, maybe take some pics, but pay some attention to the colors that are splashed on every component of the assembly. Y'all need to index your OEM drive shaft assembly BEFORE you pull it from the car, and restore it as it was before you messed with it. Following a few simple rules here, could prevent some serious damage, or, discomfort.

Or...You could replace the OEM shaft with a sure thing, a drive line sub-assembly that's matched and balanced as one unit, and forget about the complications that may, or may not, visit your MM.

Just yesterday, I discovered that I was shooting 439 HP and 399 lbs of torque to my rear end, and honestly, I worried about a few things. My drive shaft, u-joints, yoke and flange, were not on that list. Neither did I worry about my pinion gear or bearing, or, my ring gear, diff, or, axle bearings because I fixed them all while back. Stud kit and girdle in place, my drive line is hooking real nice with this new power.

Piece of mind, gentleman, is worth something too. You can be more reserved where you need to, just to keep the affordabilty affordable. However, if you are headed towards high power, check back here for an update first, please?

It's not just a "balance" thingy, my friends. There is something like "sound structure" ringing in my ears here too. Can you spell "twist?"

Just my .02c...cha-ching.