Oil Filters Revealed......

[Marauderjack]

Good write up....draw your own conclusions!!!:beer:

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/reference.html

[SC Cheesehead]

Hey,

Good article, Jack! Thanks for posting.

[Thunderace]

Very good info!

[rayjay]

Good info, thanks! I thought I did right by putting a AC Delco filter in the Evil Orb. I know better now for the next change.

[ctrlraven]

Good info, nice find Jack.

[Bulten Rauder]

Man, there were some hours put into that study!

I highly recommend the Amsoil oil filter. I've gone the extra miles (20,000) on my two Chevy's (5.3L and 3.4L) between changes (using Amsoil 5W30) and the oil is clean. Amsoil states you can go longer with oil analysis.

[magindat]

About a year ago I bought a case of Eiko filters (which were manufactured by Purolator) on a closeout for less than a buck each. The info in this research confirmed my research.

It's gonna suck when I have to start payin real money for filters again!

Good info, Jack. Thanx

[Marauderjack]

Glad to contribute when I can.....:beer:

[TAKEDOWN]

I'M GONNA TRY BOSCH ALONG WITH ROYAL PURPLE! Thanks for the info!

[Shora]

Thanks MJ! Nice reading.

Since you bring this up, let me ask two questions that have been on my mind for a while but are not important enough for their "own thread".

1) I always thought that our MotorCraft FL-820S filters were made by Wix and are the same as Napa Gold. Now it looks like I was wrong and that they are indeed made by Purolator. So, once and for all, who makes our filters?

2) Our engines are known to be very sensitive about keeping the oil in the heads and thus our filters are designed with one of the most advanced and best designed anti-drian back valves (which are also right at the base of the filter). My question is, since these engines are so sensitive to oil flow and keeping the proper amount of oil flowing on start ups, why didn't they design the oil filter's location where it would allow it to be filled with fresh oil after a change.

I cringe a little the first start-up after each oil change.

[a_d_a_m]

My question is, since these engines are so sensitive to oil flow and keeping the proper amount of oil flowing on start ups, why didn't they design the oil filter's location where it would allow it to be filled with fresh oil after a change.

I cringe a little the first start-up after each oil change.

+1.

I was using Fram for YEARS, which might explain why my timing chain tensioners went bad at 93k on the Marquis. I'll be running Wix, Purolator, or Mo-craft from now on...........

[RF Overlord]

shora:

1) The OEM filters installed at the factory are made by Champion Laboratories. The aftermarket Motorcraft filters are made by Purolator.

2) Because the very brief amount of start-up noise heard after an oil change is of no consequence.

[Shora]

shora:

1) The OEM filters installed at the factory are made by Champion Laboratories. The aftermarket Motorcraft filters are made by Purolator.

2) Because the very brief amount of start-up noise heard after an oil change is of no consequence.

You know your stuff! Thanks for the info.

[RF Overlord]

Anytime, my friend.

BTW, you were half right...NAPA filters are made by WIX, and the Gold line is identical to WIX-labelled filters except for the paint on the can. The same is true for Carquest Blue filters.

[bob6364]

I had that bookmark and lost it sometime ago ...thanks for finding it again :D

[DOOM]

Good read. I use K&N.

[Bulten Rauder]

It's a shame they didn't have information on the new Amsoil filters. :shake:

One could always check thier website: www.amsoil.com (http://www.amsoil.com)

I know they're a PITA to get and cost a fair amount of gold, but if they protect my engine the best I'll pay the extra!!

:twocents:

[GetMeMyStogie]

shora:
2) Because the very brief amount of start-up noise heard after an oil change is of no consequence.

Hmm, I was thinking this instead:
Because the very small amount of oil that spills while spinning on a new, oil-filled oil filter is of no consequence.

I always fill my oil filter before installing it. That way, there is no unusual startup noise.

[Marauderjack]

Hmm, I was thinking this instead:
Because the very small amount of oil that spills while spinning on a new, oil-filled oil filter is of no consequence.

I always fill my oil filter before installing it. That way, there is no unusual startup noise.

Well.....you should have a LOT of fun putting a full filter on a Marauder!!!!:shake:

I "remoted" mine to avoid the BIG mess with the OEM setup!!!:beer:

[rayjay]

Hmm, I was thinking this instead:
Because the very small amount of oil that spills while spinning on a new, oil-filled oil filter is of no consequence.

I always fill my oil filter before installing it. That way, there is no unusual startup noise.

I tried this exactly once. :shake:

[CKMustangCobra]

7qts of 5-20 Castol GTX and a Mobil 1 Filter every 3000 miles.

I always put a few ounces in the filter before screwing it on. I'm quick at it and rarely spill any. I would love a remote for it though.

[03blackmerc]

Puraloator all the way

[babbage]

Man, there were some hours put into that study!

I highly recommend the Amsoil oil filter. I've gone the extra miles (20,000) on my two Chevy's (5.3L and 3.4L) between changes (using Amsoil 5W30) and the oil is clean. Amsoil states you can go longer with oil analysis.


I liked these also. Except the Motorcraft has the best anti-drain back valve.

On my old 4.6 2v motor with the AMSOIL high efficiency filter sometimes on startup I could hear the cams grind briefly as they were STARVED FOR OIL as most oil filters except Motrocraft FL820S let the oil drain out of the heads making for dry BAD startups.

Does the 4.6 4V require a good anti-drain back valve??? or is this only an issue with the 2 valve motors. Thanks

[babbage]

Well.....you should have a LOT of fun putting a full filter on a Marauder!!!!:shake:

I "remoted" mine to avoid the BIG mess with the OEM setup!!!:beer:


tell me about your remote setup - is it dual filter? Got a link or pics?

[rayjay]

I liked these also. Except the Motorcraft has the best anti-drain back valve.

On my old 4.6 2v motor with the AMSOIL high efficiency filter sometimes on startup I could hear the cams grind briefly as they were STARVED FOR OIL as most oil filters except Motrocraft FL820S let the oil drain out of the heads making for dry BAD startups.

Does the 4.6 4V require a good anti-drain back valve??? or is this only an issue with the 2 valve motors. Thanks

Stick with the MotorCrafts, and yes it does require a anti drain back valve. Go with the FL820s and Royal Purple 5w-20 and your car will thank you.

[rayjay]

tell me about your remote setup - is it dual filter? Got a link or pics?

Do a search and you will find all you seek padawon. :D

[GetMeMyStogie]

I always put a few ounces in the filter before screwing it on. I'm quick at it and rarely spill any.

:up: I don't see what the problem is. I've only done 2 oil changes so far - only had the car 6 months now - and it is a bit of a pain snaking it around the various obstructions, but so what? A bit more practice, and I'm sure I'll get better at it. Both times, I filled the filter up all the way, though, and spilled a bit (into the drain pan, not the ground) - no more than 100mL though (less than one-tenth of a quart). With the filter only half full, I doubt any would spill at all.
Worth the effort in my books :)

[TAKEDOWN]

Stick with the MotorCrafts, and yes it does require a anti drain back valve. Go with the FL820s and Royal Purple 5w-20 and your car will thank you.

Isn't Bosch similar? I recently purchased a case of 5w-20 Royal Purple along with a Bosch oil filter. I may have it done by tomorrow, depending on temp.

[Marauderjack]

tell me about your remote setup - is it dual filter? Got a link or pics?

Just a few pix....TransDapt 1028 now with SS braided hoses since the ones supplied with the kit "weep" at the fittings!! The remote is in front of the wheel on the frame....very easy to get to with the wheels turned hard right and the front jacked up!!:beer:

You can count on loosing 5-10 PSI of oil pressure depending on where you mount the remote and how long the hoses are but I still have 15+ PSI hot idle and 50+ PSI hot at 3K RPM's using 5W30 Mobil I with oil at 180*...not bad!!:shake:

As I recall the kit was about $80.00 and the SS hoses another $100.00.....you may want to just buy the components and build your own??:rolleyes:

Believe me it is MUCH better than "bobbling" the hot, oily filter from the OEM setup!!!:bows:

Marauderjack

[rayjay]

Babbage, the only reason I never did this mod was my concern about oil temps in the winter here on a daily driver at start up. That location makes oil changes much easier, but also exsposes the filter/lines to the elements. I was concerned that on a below zero day it may hurt the engine. I have nothing to support that other than my gut feeling about it.

[RF Overlord]

rayjay, don't let oil temps alone keep you from installing a remote filter. Cooler is better than hotter. Remember, too, that wind chill only affects living things...plants, animals, people, etc, so your first start on a cold day won't be any different with a remote filter than it is right now.

[rayjay]

rayjay, don't let oil temps alone keep you from installing a remote filter. Cooler is better than hotter. Remember, too, that wind chill only affects living things...plants, animals, people, etc, so your first start on a cold day won't be any different with a remote filter than it is right now.

My concern was more with the lines being exsposed to extreem cold. 0 and below are normal here in the dead of winter. It is not unusual in my area for the overnight temp to hit -15 to -20*F actual air temp. If there were moisture in the lines, its going to freeze. Of course it is somewhat warmer where Babbage lives, +5-10*s normally. I know he is planning to use his MM as a daily driver. Its a moot point for me now with the DTR stored in the winter.

[RF Overlord]

I accept that it's a moot point now, but for the benefit of anyone else who may be reading, why do you think that exposing the oil lines to ambient temp is any different than exposing the oil pan itself to the same temp? Or the existing filter? After sitting for a few hours, everything under your hood is going to equalise to the same temperature.

If you have that much moisture in your oil lines that you're worried about it freezing and possibly blocking the lines, then you have a MUCH bigger problem to worry about.

[rayjay]

I accept that it's a moot point now, but for the benefit of anyone else who may be reading, why do you think that exposing the oil lines to ambient temp is any different than exposing the oil pan itself to the same temp? Or the existing filter? After sitting for a few hours, everything under your hood is going to equalise to the same temperature.

If you have that much moisture in your oil lines that you're worried about it freezing and possibly blocking the lines, then you have a MUCH bigger problem to worry about.

Its just the reason I never did it. It just seemed like a risk to me that because of the diameter of the lines they maybe at risk of freezing up in extreemly cold temps. I had a new Ford F150 in the 70's that the oil actually jelled during a cold snap and had to be towed in. The oil was only 2k miles old at the time. FWIW, that truck was a lemon and the dealer took it back.
It is his car he can do as he wishes. It rarely gets as cold in Syracuse as it does here on a regular basis. As I said I have no imperical proof and I maybe I'm all wet on this.