Electrical Issues - good fuses

[murphypeople]

I drove to work and MM life was good. Drove out for lunch and steering was very stiff, no HVAC, Rear View mirror is "out," Reverse lights are "out," and fog lamps don't work. A quick review of the manual (pg 140) would indicate that fuse 16 & 18 are blow. Both are 15A fuses. The visual and meter continuity test "test okay."

I missed my 45,000 mile maintenance visit and I am almost at 60,000 miles so I will be going to my reliable Indy shop soon. However if I could clear up this issue immediately I would like to do that on my own...with help from ya'all:help:

Thanks for considering my plea
Tony

[Spectragod]

You say that the continuity checks ok, is there voltage on those fuses? You will have to start going backwards from there. Probable causes.... bad relay, bad fusible link, bad ground, I do not have a manual in front of me, but if you do, it will give you a rundown of things to look for.

[RoyLPita]

Ignition switch?

[CKMustangCobra]

Fuses can test good at low current (volt meters) but open (not blow) at higher current.

Swap them out just in case.

If that doesn't work check for voltage at the fuse.

[murphypeople]

Great tips everyone!!!! I will "get after it" tomorrow night. To be honest I don't know what to think about the ignition switch comment. I don't know enough for that comment to mean much. But I will quickly add...could be my imagination...I think I hear a sound like a small electronic switch makes. A slight clicking sound that comes from the ignition switch area or under the steering column.

Again thank you all. I'll report back.
Tony

[Marauder386]

Gee, this sounds very familiar...

And no, I have not been able to diagnose the same problem he is having ...



:cool4:

[murphypeople]

Well I got some new fuses from the local parts store and no change. When I got home, although my check engine link was not on, I checked for DTC codes. Using my X Calibrator/2 I discovered there were not DTC codes to be found. I did not have a change to meter the fuse for voltage.

Should the fuse socket be empty, of a fuse, when I make this test? Or should I have the fuse in and just touch the leads to the little test points?

Tony

[Spectragod]

Well I got some new fuses from the local parts store and no change. When I got home, although my check engine link was not on, I checked for DTC codes. Using my X Calibrator/2 I discovered there were not DTC codes to be found. I did not have a change to meter the fuse for voltage.

Should the fuse socket be empty, of a fuse, when I make this test? Or should I have the fuse in and just touch the leads to the little test points?

Tony

The fuse should be installed, check both side for voltage. Just because an XCal showed no codes, that doesn't mean they are not there, you may possibly need a scan tool to verify for certain.

Check fuses for voltage, and, check the fuses under the hood as well.

Good luck...

[murphypeople]

As it turns out the "green wire" to the ignition switch had no voltage. The mechanic at the Indy Shop traced out the line and found a nicked wire by the front right fender that corroded. When the wire finally gave out fuses 15, 16, 18, 23, & 27 and all the service they support no longer worked. It cost me a small fortune ($330) to have fixed...but that’s what we do when we don't have the skills to take care of stuff ourselves.

Thanks everyone for your input. I took it as far as I could, myself.

[RoyLPita]

I thought that what I stated earlier would be correct becauise all of them work while the vehicle is running.

Thanx for proving me wrong.

I hope this helps Marauder 386 with Roadpig #1.