Should I get a new Marauder???

[Crown Vic]

If I can continue the same payments and get a brand new car as opposed to my slightly used one, should I do it?

What I still owe is roughly what the KBB value of my car is. If I trade mine in and basically pay like 1/2 back, I calculate the same monthly payments only tackin on an extra year or so.

Thoughts???


Thanx...
Danny :D

[Thomas C Potter]

No brainer!! Do it!! And get peace of mind with side air bags. Get Red. Stay away from 300A.

TP

[Crown Vic]

:D

I just have to make sure the loan won't hurt me because they'd have to pay a loan minus the value of the car.

Example:
Owe $13,000 on the car. Car worth $17,000. Will they only give me $4,000 credit because the $13,000 goes to the loan and not toward the new car? Or will they give me the $17,000 credit cause they have the car itself???

$30,000 car + my $13,000 loan = $43,000
$43,000 - $17,000 they can sell my car for = $26,000

So would I have to dish out $26,000????

:confused:

[rct]

(Best price - rebates) = price

(price + what you owe on other car) = final price

(final price - what they will give you for other car) =
what you borrow

Nobody gives you what they can sell yer car for, they give you what they want to give you for it. Tax matters, I always tax it at the best price level, they will tax it BEFORE applying rebates.

[Merc-O-matic]

Look for a 2003 MM (300A) which has been
sitting on the lot for a year. You can
take it home for $25K....that should
help your pocket book.
Gotta Love It!

[jerrym3]

I hate to say this (since I own one), but I've heard that new 2003 TBirds are selling for $10,000 off list.

Glad I bought mine as a "keeper".

[jgc61sr2002]

Crown Vic - You have a sweet looking ride. Take to a dealer and get the actual numbers. Most dealers go by the wholesale value and no matter how good the condition give you just that. May give you a few extra $ for very low mileage. My experience is sell privately and you will get the best deal for yourself. IMHO.

[kenny barr]

Originally posted by Crown Vic
:D

I just have to make sure the loan won't hurt me because they'd have to pay a loan minus the value of the car.

Example:
Owe $13,000 on the car. Car worth $17,000. Will they only give me $4,000 credit because the $13,000 goes to the loan and not toward the new car? Or will they give me the $17,000 credit cause they have the car itself???

$30,000 car + my $13,000 loan = $43,000
$43,000 - $17,000 they can sell my car for = $26,000

So would I have to dish out $26,000????

:confused:

Forget about what the retail value of your car is. Go to KBB and look up the trade in value and subtract about a grand or so from that. That's what you can expect to get for your trade. Merc is offering $3500 cash back right now, so that might help your loan payoff and not be upside down in the new car. Good luck

[MAD-3R]

Or check Carmax. They give upwards of 2 to 3 k more per car then a dealer, especialy if it's in good shape.

[MERCMAN]

Thomas C Potter
Senior Member

Member #: 862
Registered: Apr 2003
Location: Fairfax VA
Posts: 144

No brainer!! Do it!! And get peace of mind with side air bags. Get Red. Stay away from 300A.

TP

What is with the "advice" of staying away from the 300a????

[Macon Marauder]

Wouldn't it go like this:
$30,000 (MM) - 17,000 (CV) = $13,000
Then $13,000 plus tax, tag, title,
Then add $13,000 payoff?

Looks like about $28K after you add TTT. But the $30K price on the MM is before rebates, right?

[Macon Marauder]

PS: You probably already know this, but never take the first offer they make for your trade.

Yeah, you're ALWAYS better off selling it yourself. But I'm just lazy. I almost always trade. And they always try to steal the trade with the first (sometimes 2nd and 3rd) offer.

If you do trade: know the value of your trade (Edmunds, KBB, etc.) and accept nothing less. It works for me.

[gonzo50]

Originally posted by Thomas C Potter
No brainer!! Do it!! And get peace of mind with side air bags. Get Red. Stay away from 300A.
I don't understand your reason for saying to "stay away from 300A",:confused: If he wants a great deal than that might be a better approach than just the color "DTR".
Financially you'll be better of with the 300A thats been sitting on the dealers lot for a year then getting a rebate on a 2004 IMHO.:D

[kenny barr]

Originally posted by Macon Marauder
Wouldn't it go like this:
$30,000 (MM) - 17,000 (CV) = $13,000
Then $13,000 plus tax, tag, title,
Then add $13,000 payoff?

Looks like about $28K after you add TTT. But the $30K price on the MM is before rebates, right?

Your car's wholelsale is only $15,500 or so, expect the dealer to offer you $13000. You can bargain, but you arent going to get anywhere close to $17000.

$32,200 (MM-invoice) - 14,000 (CV) = $18,200
$18,200 + $1092 tax + $300 or so BS fees + $50 DMV = $19,642
$19,642 - $3500 rebate = $16142
$16,142 + $13,000 payoff = $29142

[RCSignals]

Originally posted by mercman
Thomas C Potter
Senior Member

Member #: 862
Registered: Apr 2003
Location: Fairfax VA
Posts: 144

No brainer!! Do it!! And get peace of mind with side air bags. Get Red. Stay away from 300A.

TP

What is with the "advice" of staying away from the 300a????

Only reason i guess would be that while a '03 300A may be "new" once he "owns" it, to the industry it's a one year old car, thus with greater deprecation than a new '04

[Crown Vic]

Wow!!! You guys are awesome in helpin out. :D

I'm not worried about what my car is worth...I'm more concerned about the loan since i still owe.

I'll talk to a dealer and see what the final numbers will be. :)