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View Full Version : Oops. Big Oops!


Zack
03-22-2009, 08:00 PM
So I pull the engine out of the Blue MM due to it knocking. Sounded just like a rod bearing... EXACTLY.

I get the complete engine ripped down in no time.

Heads look great!
Pistons look great as well!
Oil pump......Great!
All 8 rod bearings.....You guessed it......Uh, nothing wrong :confused:

So then I thought 2 things:
Main Bearings?

Hmmm, Highly unlikely, and the oil looked great.

Bad Pulley I didnt bother to check? Sort of. This is where i admit epic fail.... The auxiliary crank pulley hub is attached by 3 bolts...... I checked them, after sifting through the pile of parts.....Yep, one loose bolt.

At this point im not mad, but relieved that the problem is stupid, (but I just wasted 4 days of working for nothing) :eek:

So while it was out, ole' Blue got a new oil pump, new rod bolts and new head gaskets with ARP head studs. Aside from that, all 8 piston tops were cleaned to a like-new state and all fasteners got a good coating of anti-seize.

Dyno tune on Wednesday, Kentucky on Thursday. Booya! :beer:
musclemerc
03-22-2009, 08:10 PM
Good to hear everything worked out for you Mr.M :beer:
Taemian
03-22-2009, 08:12 PM
Lesson learned, and pistons cleaned! Sweeeeeet!
PantherP71
03-22-2009, 08:33 PM
At least she got a cleaning.
Vortech347
03-22-2009, 09:09 PM
Don't feel to bad. I replaced my lifters, Pushrods, and resetup the valvetrain on my stang when it had a tiny header leak. Sad thing is my wife came out in the garage and was like "its a header leak". I shoulda listened. But that only took 3 hours to change everything.

Are you going to put new bearings and rings in?
Krytin
03-23-2009, 03:06 AM
Did you put in a fresh set of rod/main bearings?
Zack
03-23-2009, 04:13 AM
Did you put in a fresh set of rod/main bearings?

I didnt even pull the main caps...that gets expensive real quick. the main bolt package from Ford is way more than one hundred dollars :eek:

I didnt replace the rod bearings because they looked brand new. But I did have to replace the bolts since they are torque to yield. Those are cheap and I had some at the house.
Krytin
03-23-2009, 05:15 AM
I didn't know that all of the cap bolts were torque to yield - that is a lot of $$!
DTRMiguel
03-23-2009, 06:46 AM
that is a lot of $$!

Zack's got it ;) :beatnik:
Blackened300a
03-23-2009, 06:55 AM
I didn't know that all of the cap bolts were torque to yield - that is a lot of $$!

I hate torque to yield bolts! I have to do a front main seal and I have to buy a new crank bolt just to do a simple job.
ctrlraven
03-23-2009, 07:58 AM
At least it wasn't something major, better to be safe than sorry you know.
DOOM
03-23-2009, 08:03 AM
Zack im glad to hear you have the problem resolved. But i thought you were bringing the BLACK to kentucky??? :confused:
SC Cheesehead
03-23-2009, 08:09 AM
Zack im glad to hear you have the problem resolved. But i thought you were bringing the BLACK to kentucky??? :confused:

I don't think he'll have the motor done in time.
rayjay
03-23-2009, 01:56 PM
Doesn't sound like a waste of time to me as you upgraded the weakest link in the engine, the oil pump. Your engine life will thank you for it.
BAD MERC
03-23-2009, 02:07 PM
Hey - no fail here. Better safe than sorry. At least you got a good look at her insides. My friend Eddy replaced a whole engine with a new GM crate because of a nasty "rod knock". Ended up being a cracked flexplate. The new engine was not returnable unless being exchanged for warranty..
crouse
03-23-2009, 05:37 PM
Zack, Sorry to highjack your thread, but what did the knock sound like? Was it there all the time or just under load? I've got some type of knock/rattle that hasn't gotten any worse in... well, I can't even remember when it started. It only seems to be noticable under higher RPM when you let off just before a shift or under low speed & light throttle. I'm thinking it's valve train or something else besides a rod or main bearing. I did all the usual stuff. Pull each plug one at a time, removed the belt to rule our an accessory such as an alternator etc. Any thoughts or comments would be appreciated. Thanks, Curt
Zack
03-23-2009, 08:00 PM
I hate torque to yield bolts! I have to do a front main seal and I have to buy a new crank bolt just to do a simple job.

No you dont.
Ive reused crank bolts 10 times over, never had a problem.
Zack
03-23-2009, 08:01 PM
I don't think he'll have the motor done in time.

Black is running and moving, but BLUE is making the trip :up:
Zack
03-23-2009, 08:03 PM
Zack, Sorry to highjack your thread, but what did the knock sound like? Was it there all the time or just under load? I've got some type of knock/rattle that hasn't gotten any worse in... well, I can't even remember when it started. It only seems to be noticable under higher RPM when you let off just before a shift or under low speed & light throttle. I'm thinking it's valve train or something else besides a rod or main bearing. I did all the usual stuff. Pull each plug one at a time, removed the belt to rule our an accessory such as an alternator etc. Any thoughts or comments would be appreciated. Thanks, Curt

Could be the timing chain tensioners. Most MM's have cheap plastic tensioners from the factory that blow the seals out of them. This is what causes the start up noise.
When I put the Blue engine back together, I installed the revised metal tensioners and the start up rattle is gone.