Power windows

[O3 pharoh]

Has any one else had trouble with power window switches. Mine have to be pushed further forward to actually go up. There is no problems with going down. But definite hesitation, and sometimes just don't even want to go up. Bad in the Midwest weather. Don't know if it has to do with the creeking and light rattle that drives me nuts in the door panel. Any remedies??

[fastblackmerc]

New switches.

[CROWNMARAUDER]

I had an issue with my passenger window working off & on but a new drivers side switch took care of the problem. The switch is around $48 list price @ the dealer.

[CBT]

Passenger side is slow. SUPER slow if the temps are around freezing.

[LeeHuff]

My passenger side is slow too. I was thinking that the window motor is going bad, but I also read that the driver side window switches tend to cause problems. Anyone know for sure?

[O3 pharoh]

Thanks guys, the local ford dealer has them in stock. pick them up soon.

[88LTDCV351]

My rear windows act like they don't want to open but after a bit of delay, they are OK. My driver mirror is what isn't working. I think I will try the switch first.

[ckadiddle]

I previously owned a 1997 CV and then a 2001 CVLX prior to the Marauders. Power windows on the panthers are NOT Ford's strong suit. I have had multiple windows motors die and a couple regulator mechanisms break over the years. Most recently bad window motor in the 03 MM. i always suspect motors and regulators first. LOL

[GetMeMyStogie]

Same problem on my passenger side window - goes down, then won't go back up via the passenger window switch. Wife says "can you roll me up, please?"

The problem is the switch. Inside the switch, there are 4 contacts on the base and 2 metal strips with additional, 'floating' contacts at each end, not unlike contacts inside a relay. In the normal, centered position 2 base contacts are held against 2 of the floating contacts. Push the switch in the 'down' direction, and one pair of contacts disconnect and a different pair connect. Push the switch towards up, and the other pair of contacts are engaged.
What happens is when the switch is released from either the down or the up position, the contacts 'break'. Because the window motor is an inductor, a spark is generated across the gap created across the contacts as the switch is released. The spark causes a carbon buildup, and over time enough the carbon builds up to prevent electrical current from flowing. I'm not sure why the up position tends to fail more than the down position, though.

A short-term fix is to disassemble the switch (just a small, flat blade is needed - the entire assembly snaps together) and clean the dirty contacts. You can even use the same flat blade to scrape off the accumulated carbon. Put it back together, pop it back into the door panel, and it should be good to go for a little while.

I did this back in November, and had to do it again just a week or so ago, which is why I say it's a short-term fix. But on the plus side, it costs $0.00.