Brakes,I'm going to get killed

[ozziewynot]

Well there was some pulsing at 50,000 so I turned the rotors and changed the front pads , Ah Ha , I'll try the ceramics . Monroe ? They recommended them and I disliked them immediately , the brake pedal seemed lower and more effort was required .
A month later , after much kicking of my backside , I installed NAPA rotors (all 4 ,not the $30 but the $90 ones ) with the Adaptive One pads on all four wheels .
Worse !! It takes half a brake pedal before they start to grab and a lot of effort to brake effectively .
I did not bleed the lines , there was no loss of fluid .
I've done many brake jobs over the years and only have experienced this when rotors were turned too much , rear drums needed ajustment or pads were well worn . None of which apply here .

I would appreciate any suggestions . I'm starting to think I would have been better off with the Motorcraft pads for stopping power but , the low pedal is downright scary .

Thanks

[stangracr]

Maybe the pads just have not worn in yet. I work at a local ford dealer and when I install new pads and machine rotors I have to drive the car and do a couple good stops to seat the pads. If they get too hot they feel like you described also. Maybe take it out and do a couple good stops with it. Not panic but slow the car from 60 mph to 30 a couple times and see if they improve. Im not gonna lie to ya. I like factory ford pads.


ed

[burt ragio]

Pads and rotor combinations are one issue. The combo can make a huge difference. Bleeding the system is another. With your new pads & rotors if bleed properly the pedal should not be lower than before. If you need more pedal pressure & the pedal is lower than before I would 1st check out the master cylender. Hold steady pressure on the pedal see that it goes so far & then stops. If it stops it's good. Next pressure bleed or gravity bleed the system. Passenger right rear left rear. Passenger right front left front.

[Blackened300a]

I had the same exact problem as you. I changed all the brake fluid, new pads and rotors, bled the brakes at least 3 times, I gave up and just replaced the master cylinder. After doing a pressure bleed I can finally stop the car.

[FordNut]

Try OEM pads. Not Motorcraft, but Ford factory pads. They'll have to special order them at the local Ford parts counter.

[Marauderjack]

I tried ceramics and they were awful.....dusty.....extreme pedal pressure!!:argue:

Went back to OEM's and all is well......Ford parts are your friend!!:beer::bows:

[ozziewynot]

First of all , thanks to all of you who have commented on my brake problem .

Some of us remember when metallic pads were first formulated they were all the rage . The trade off for these super longer lasting brakes was a harder pedal and they ate drums and rotors at a much faster rate . It was some time before they came up with a more balanced formula that worked well . I'm sure there are many virtues for the ceramics of today but the composition seems to vary significantly from each manufacturer . Perhaps the hard core drivers do find the virtues of ceramics beneficial but , until I can afford the exotic super brake conversion , I'm going to follow the suggestions made here and feel OEM will win out .
When the car was a year or two old a herd of deer came frolicking down a long hill and onto US 81 in Northern PA . Four lanes and average speed of 80 MPH resulted in a panic slow down with hazards flashing . We all made it ,including the deer ,and I marveled at the control and stability of my Merc . Yeah , I think OEM .
More comments will be welcomed and appreciated . I'll post my results in about a week .
Again , thanks .

[babbage]

Motorcraft superduty pads (semi metallic) are what I use and they are great. - Command Automotive Rotors (cryogen) have lifetime warranty (400,000 miles)

MSP & CHP Police tests prove Factory and Motorcraft severe duty pads are best for 'our' cars. These 2 are always at the top.

Pads are suppose to wear faster than rotors. Never turn rotors just scrap them.

[Glockafella]

Does Ford/Motorcraft make drilled and/or slotted rotors for our cars?

[Stranger in the Black Sedan]

You don't need drilled/slotted rotors, they are not going to make you stop any faster. I agree that ceramic pads (I am using Centric Parts, www.centricparts.com (http://www.centricparts.com)) do give you a harder, less grabby pedal. But they dust a whole crapload less than a semi metallic pad.

[ozziewynot]

I'm opting for washing the dust off as opposed to a higher insurance rate .