Engine Detailing Tricks

[PantherP71]

How do you guys do it?

I was at a car show the other day and it looked like a girl with a skirt on that hasn't shaved her legs in a week.

Feel free to post up your tricks and products you use.

[UncleLar]

First trick is never drive the car in winter where they use road salt,my aluminum components are so corroded from the previous owners daily driving in the winter here and lack of keeping the salt rinsed off and cleaning I won't even open my hood when anyone else is around.

[CBT]

Start with a razor:rolleyes: I use an old paintbrush, brush all the dust out of the nooks and crannys, then just wipe everything down. I don't really show my car, maybe once a year, but staying on top of the dirt keeps it from building up. Wipe down with damp cloth, follwed by stuff that makes rubber shiney, any product will do.

[Spectragod]

How do you guys do it?

I was at a car show the other day and it looked like a girl with a skirt on that hasn't shaved her legs in a week.

Feel free to post up your tricks and products you use.

17K on the clock, it's pretty easy to keep it clean, I never drive it...

I understand that if you remove all the front sheetmetal, it's pretty easy to clean. Otherwise, brush's, rags, spray cleaner and lots of elbow grease.

[Blk Mamba]

I use a 60/40 mix of simple green, after a rinse off, then wait 5 min. and rinse again. Then I use Meguires Interior Detail on everything, (not like Armoral) it doesn't attract dust. I drive mine year round, if you are diligent about undercarriage rinse, about once a week, the salt won't be a problem. You'll see mine in July, 80,000 miles.

[TAKEDOWN]

Schick triple blade should handle it!

[Blackened300a]

I use a 60/40 mix of simple green, after a rinse off, then wait 5 min. and rinse again. Then I use Meguires Interior Detail on everything, (not like Armoral) it doesn't attract dust.

I do the exact same thing except we have a chemical made for our company that we use on the trucks . Its stronger then 409 and simple green and I have to break it down 1 part cleaner to 10 parts water. I spray it on and just watch all the dirt just slide off the engine then I rinse and let dry. I been usuing Instant shine tire dressing and I cover the entire engine. It makes everything stand out a lot brighter. The only downside I noticed is that alternator charges a bit lower till I start drving a while.
I tried this on my 2V CV and I shorted a few coils. The 2V isnt a big fan of water near the top of then engine.

[ImpalaSlayer]

i usualy just wipe it down best i can with cleaners and stuff. too much electronics in there for me to go squirting water in there. however if that works for some, more power to em.

[Glockafella]

1 start off with cool motor

2 cover anything you might be worried about getting wet with plastic bag i.e. CAI filter, electronics

3 wet down motor gently with garden hose

4 engine degreaser, cover everything with it...I prefer the Gunk brand that foams up really nice...careful to ensure its aluminium safe, let it stand 15-20 minutes in a cool environment free of sunlight

5 use a toothbrush, baby bottle cleaner brush, or any small plastic bristled brush to get the grime and smaller areas clean of dirt, grease, and /or oil

6 use of a small green scouring pad is also an option at this stage

7 rinse motor bay down throughly but gently carefull lot to powerblast anything to much

8 dry off with microfiber towls and then use a leave blower to finish the drying process if you have one

9 repeat steps 3 - 8 until satified

10 detail with whatever product you like, I use the same product on my dash that I used on my engine, some used tire shine, others use egine specific detailing products

ENJOY the end product...remember that you dont have to get it perfect the first time...I just do the best i can do and do it about every 2 weeks...in time it looks MUCH better. I split the engine bay into 4 areas and concentrate on one area at a time before moving onto the next.

Hope this helps

[Dr Caleb]

I tried this on my 2V CV and I shorted a few coils. The 2V isnt a big fan of water near the top of then engine.

I actually fried wires on my old CV by washing the engine and getting water in the plug holes.

If you do it, dry well!

[CKMustangCobra]

Straight up Simple Green, pressure washer, spray down with interior detailer, start engine and let the stuff bake on and it dries the engine too.

[SC Cheesehead]

I do the exact same thing except we have a chemical made for our company that we use on the trucks . Its stronger then 409 and simple green and I have to break it down 1 part cleaner to 10 parts water. I spray it on and just watch all the dirt just slide off the engine then I rinse and let dry. I been usuing Instant shine tire dressing and I cover the entire engine. It makes everything stand out a lot brighter. The only downside I noticed is that alternator charges a bit lower till I start drving a while.
I tried this on my 2V CV and I shorted a few coils. The 2V isnt a big fan of water near the top of then engine.

Yep, Paul turned me on to Instant Shine a couple years ago, and IMO, you can't beat the stuff. I usually clean and spray down the COLD engine bay with a 1:3 mixture of Simple Green every other month. I also use a tooth brush to get in the small corners and grooves, let it sit for about 5 minutes and then rinse down with a regular water hose and sprayer set on the "wide" setting, works great. The Instant Shine displaces water, so if the engine isn't completely dry it will still provide uniform coverage.

[bob6364]

Garden hose,simple green,garden hose,compressed air, http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31G5NV1ETRL._SL500_AA280_.jpg

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

How do you guys keep the top part of the manifold or whatever nice and bright, almost white? Mine seems to be yellowing more and more.

[Glockafella]

How do you guys keep the top part of the manifold or whatever nice and bright, almost white? Mine seems to be yellowing more and more.


ditto that, mine is spotted and I have tried and tried to get it looking new

[Glockafella]

First trick is never drive the car in winter where they use road salt,my aluminum components are so corroded from the previous owners daily driving in the winter here and lack of keeping the salt rinsed off and cleaning I won't even open my hood when anyone else is around.



I feel ya brother! :mad2:

[Vortech347]

Don't EVER....EVER use armoral on the engine. It'll attract so much **** you won't know what hit ya.

[Pat]

I say; Jason, you want to drive the Marauder this Friday night?
Clean the motor. Done.

[Blackened300a]

Yep, Paul turned me on to Instant Shine a couple years ago, and IMO, you can't beat the stuff. I usually clean and spray down the COLD engine bay with a 1:3 mixture of Simple Green every other month. I also use a tooth brush to get in the small corners and grooves, let it sit for about 5 minutes and then rinse down with a regular water hose and sprayer set on the "wide" setting, works great. The Instant Shine displaces water, so if the engine isn't completely dry it will still provide uniform coverage.

Nice pics, Glad I could help.
I have a lot of people looking at me sideways when I coat the engine. After they see the final result they are asking me where they find the spray. :D

I think it was back at MV-V you guys saw the spray.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d12/blackened300a/DSCN0698-2.jpg

[rayjay]

First trick is never drive the car in winter where they use road salt,my aluminum components are so corroded from the previous owners daily driving in the winter here and lack of keeping the salt rinsed off and cleaning I won't even open my hood when anyone else is around.

Yea same problem from mine being a DD for 4 years here in the upstate snowbelt. I have yet to find anything that will remove the salt stains. :mad2:

[Blackened300a]

Yea same problem from mine being a DD for 4 years here in the upstate snowbelt. I have yet to find anything that will remove the salt stains. :mad2:

I have a aluminum cleaner thats made for dump truck bodies and aluminum tanks. We sprayed it on and let it sit for a little then rinse. It cleaned over 15 years of road grime and oxidation off the tanks.
Try your local truck dealership or truck stop. They sell all kinds of cleaning chemicals because you cant polish a 48ft trailer. :D

I could put some in a container and bring it to Carlisle if you cant find any. You'll have to have a brush and water nearby. Ill be happy to show you.

[rayjay]

I have a aluminum cleaner thats made for dump truck bodies and aluminum tanks. We sprayed it on and let it sit for a little then rinse. It cleaned over 15 years of road grime and oxidation off the tanks.
Try your local truck dealership or truck stop. They sell all kinds of cleaning chemicals because you cant polish a 48ft trailer. :D

I could put some in a container and bring it to Carlisle if you cant find any. You'll have to have a brush and water nearby. Ill be happy to show you.

Thanks Paul. I'll try finding some. Do you have a product name?
No Carlisle for us this year :( It was Carlisle or the SC beach week. I don't need to sleep outside for the next year...

[Blackened300a]

Thanks Paul. I'll try finding some. Do you have a product name?
No Carlisle for us this year :( It was Carlisle or the SC beach week. I don't need to sleep outside for the next year...

Awwww sorry you cant make it. Ill look at the name but its made from a local chemical company that has a display case at truck dealerships. Its basically a acid wash for aluminum. Ill get the info for you later on.

[Black_Noise]

I use Mequiers quick interior detailing spray (in the all black bottle) and a micro-fiber towel.

I also use Slick-Stixx to get into the hard to reach places.

(In one of the pics I forgot to take the coolant cap off and wipe under it, I went out and did it after I saw the pic)

http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x180/black300a/marauder/engine.jpg
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x180/black300a/marauder/engine2.jpg

[Embassy]

Excellent comments so far.

I get the engine warm to aid in breaking up the debris.

I use aluminum foil to cover up the alternator and other components I do not want to get wet. You can clean them later with a quick detailer product, if needed.

Having a nozzle that rotates to different settings is also useful. I use a gentle "shower" to initially rinse the engine and to rinse it off.

You cannot have enough different kind and sizes of brushes to get into all the engine's crevices and tight spots.

After I rinse off the cleaner. I use a leaf blower to to remove all the standing water. It's great especially on the 2V 4.6 engines where water can pool around the COPs and injectors.

Then use a towel (that does not leave lint) to wipe down what's left.

I do not recommend any engine cleaner or protectant that has petroleum distillates. Many tire shines contain this and they are hard on the rubber engine components.

I have used Black Magic's tire shine on my DD's engine bay. It contains no petroleum distillates and gives off a decent shine.

http://www.blackmagicshine.com/products.aspx/37/black-magic-tire-wet-aerosol (http://www.blackmagicshine.com/products.aspx/37/black-magic-tire-wet-aerosol)

Aerospace 303 is a fantastic protectant.

Examples:

My former '98 P71
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/303162/fullsize/engine-306.jpg (http://www.supermotors.net/registry/588/32802)

My DD '01 P71
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/501581/fullsize/engine-after.jpg (http://www.supermotors.net/registry/12078/56247)

Black Sunshine:
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/710901/original/img_1585-copy.jpg (http://www.supermotors.net/registry/18556/68319)
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/710042/original/img_5467-(large).jpg

The Marauder is in its own category since it doesn't see foul weather and I only wash the engine once per year. It is constantly detailed at car shows and cruises so it never has a chance to get really dirty. Dust is the biggest concern.

That said, I use Meguiar's Trim Detailer gel on the textured plastic pieces and on the windshield cowl. Griots Vinyl and Rubber dressing addresses the hoses and their Speed shine cleans the painted and powdercoated surfaces. Microfiber towels (that are used only for the engine) and gentle brushes (like a toothbrush) are used to get in the tight spaces.

My goal is to obtain a clean, natural-looking appearance.



Finally, here's an excellent guide:

http://www.autopia.org/publish/articles/14/1/How-To-Detail-Your-Engine/Page1.html (http://www.autopia.org/publish/articles/14/1/How-To-Detail-Your-Engine/Page1.html)

Hope this helps.

[Glockafella]

where did you get them coil covers, I want them

[Dr Caleb]

Ill look at the name but its made from a local chemical company that has a display case at truck dealerships. Its basically a acid wash for aluminum. Ill get the info for you later on.

*bump*

I'm really interested in this, as the aluminum tool box in my truck needs attention, and my back is saying "For the love of God, not the Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish again!"

[GordonB]

OK, read all the posts and NOBODY has mentioned my favorite!!! -- If you use water from a hose in your engine compartment, you need a leaf blower. Crank that puppy up to HIGH and blow the beejeebers out of all the nooks and crannies in the engine bay. That is my HOT tip.

OBTW, use the leaf blower for the rest of car as well after washing, esp the mirrors, wheels, and all of the glass. What's left is minimal at that point.

GordonB

[SMOKE]

Try this stuff


http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/500/AWTC.jpg


I know it's wheel cleaner, but it is designed to deal with basically the same materials you'll find under your hood (metal and rubber). I also know this stuff on my twice-a-year-pulled-off-cleaned-buffed wheels/tires and 'wells showed me things I thought weren't still clinging in there (including rusty rinse water off the rotors and dust shield after cleanup...AMAZING stuff...it seemed to creep and clean areas I would swear couldn't be better).

Don't go nutz and spray "liberally". If you used an entire bottle on the engine/bay I'd say that is probably taking things too far. Go easy on plastics and always watch the coil covers (no direct water stream no matter how well sealed you get 'em).

Rinse top down and hunch down and shoot the under side of the engine bay too (through the wheel wells, from the front, from just behind the front wheels). Don't leave all the grime and cleaners hanging down there. Don't put this stuff directly on painted surfaces and don't bother cleaning the underside of the hood like this (pull the liner, get some nice simple green and a sponge. Clean it manually and hit it with cleaner wax. Lasts season after season).

I've got compressed air so drying things out is a breeze. Before that the leaf blower idea is the cats ass.

Agitate the product on the intake, front of the block and any other aluminum surfaces with a bristle brush. May make things a little brighter.

I'm in the Meg's low-luster/interior detailer camp too. Most of the time....some days require full whore makeup in there and on the tires. There is equal amount of de-glazing needed afterwards, much more than the low luster stuff takes!

I know the stuff Blackened is talking about. Used it in my dealership detailing days. Stuff would make you cry, you knew this stuff meant business. Have not come across a retail product close to it (and probably shouldn't). But the A2Z stuff comes damn close with a fraction of the negative aspects of the knarly stuff.

Best,
J

[SMOKE]

*bump*

I'm really interested in this, as the aluminum tool box in my truck needs attention, and my back is saying "For the love of God, not the Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish again!"

Try a truck stop. Hit the interstate if you have to. Or, sometimes if your local NAPA is big enough they'll have a heavy truck section.

There is this stuff, I have no idea of the name, but it's in a clear-ish bottle made for cleaning dump bodies, diamond plate, etc. Has a yellow tinge to it. Don't know if it is a concentrate. Don't know if it'll even leave things better than before (commercial cleaners sometimes clear the oxidation and dirt, but leave everything scorched and white....so you still need to polish).

My friend used it on an aluminum hull bass boat. Found we should have just wheeled it in the first place. Bottom line is if the metal is oxidized and not shining, nothing you spray on it will leave it any better than stripped and dull.

Best,
J

[Black_Noise]

Right here guys...

http://www.jasonsautospa.com/enginedetail/

[PantherP71]

Awesome write up. Thanks.

[Embassy]

OK, read all the posts and NOBODY has mentioned my favorite!!! -- If you use water from a hose in your engine compartment, you need a leaf blower.



After I rinse off the cleaner. I use a leaf blower to to remove all the standing water. It's great especially on the 2V 4.6 engines where water can pool around the COPs and injectors.

;)

I've been using one for years. They make drying quick and easy.

[WESTTXPATRIOT]

Yep, Paul turned me on to Instant Shine a couple years ago, and IMO, you can't beat the stuff. I usually clean and spray down the COLD engine bay with a 1:3 mixture of Simple Green every other month. I also use a tooth brush to get in the small corners and grooves, let it sit for about 5 minutes and then rinse down with a regular water hose and sprayer set on the "wide" setting, works great. The Instant Shine displaces water, so if the engine isn't completely dry it will still provide uniform coverage.
where can i get the mercury racing airbox

[rayjay]

where can i get the mercury racing airbox

Its a PHP intake with a Mercury Marine Racing sticker.