View Full Version : Go K&n!!!
LincMercLover
11-05-2002, 06:58 PM
Anybody look at the newly updated info on our cars at K&N? Ladies and gentlemen, boys and girls, we now have an OIL FILTER for our car! Thank you, oh thank you aftermarket! :D
PS to any K&N people: No sarcasim intended to delay our FIPK... :rolleyes:
Mikeenh
11-05-2002, 07:35 PM
The K&N Oil Filter part number is HP-2010.
Using the part number in our owners manual (FL-820-S) the conversion for a Fram filter is PH2. The Mobil One filter is M1-210. I went full synthetic Mobil One on my second oil change.The dealer told me that the 5-20 oil is for pollution reasons, not tolerace. He said 5-30 is fine. :)
LincMercLover
11-05-2002, 07:55 PM
I'm changing mine over at 1000 miles. I've heard that's what most people do with new motors (ie crate, oe). Anyone think this is a little too soon? Yah, I agree on the 5-20W, I'm deffinately running 5-30W this winter, possibly 10-30W.
Logan
11-05-2002, 09:02 PM
For those who care, Royal Purple makes a nice 5w20 full synthetic...
LincMercLover
11-05-2002, 09:04 PM
Yah, any idea of how much that costs? I know purple ice around here cost like $9! I was thinking about adding that and don't they have some for the tranny too? Anybody know anything about the B&M Trick Shift?
RCSignals
11-06-2002, 01:06 AM
Originally posted by Mikeenh
The dealer told me that the 5-20 oil is for pollution reasons, not tolerace. He said 5-30 is fine. :)
while 5W 30 is probably fine, your dealer isn't entirely correct on the 5W 20.
I read an article that explained the 5W 20 of today is actually a better lubricator at all temperatures than the 5W 30, and better at cooling (one of the functions of oil in an engine)
Many new engines call for 5W 20 these days.
Sorry I can't find the article again
tetsu
11-06-2002, 05:04 AM
Given the overheating problems our engine is prone to, I'd be leery
of putting thicker oil in there. If you overheat that passenger side
rear cylinder and then your oil tests out at 5-30 you are going to be
out of warranty.
Logan has a very sweet and special relationship with his dealership, but
many of the rest of us will be screwed over at the very first opportunity
by both the dealer and Ford.
Johnny
Smokie
11-06-2002, 08:25 AM
I agree with tetsu unless you know for sure you have a mod. tolerant service dealership, careful with that oil, I went to my dealer yesterday just to discuss some issues with my MM. and when I inquired about the top limited speed and the driveshaft, the first words out of the asst. service managers mouth was to say, the speed limit is 70mph if you are hot rodding your car you void the warranty. I bought my car in a different city that I live in. I will not return there again, I have a local dealer in town that is more mod friendly.
MarauderBoy
11-06-2002, 09:04 AM
I've heard that you should wait for your engine to fully break in before switching to syn oil. Apparently, it will delay the break in process.
cyclone03
11-06-2002, 10:29 AM
Oil threads are always fun.:D
I'm going to run whatever the dealer puts in at my first oil change.
After that full synthetic like I have been useing for 20years+.
Way back when Mobile One came in metal cans my dad got a visit from a Mobile rep. at work.He was selling Mobile Industial Lubes.
He showed my Dad,(and later me) several test useing Mobile and any other oil we cared to test.Heat,friction,cleaning etc.
The test that sticks with me was the one that later was used in comercials by Castrol.The frying pan test.
The only difference was the rep wasn't trying to boil the oil he just set the pan temp to 350deg. then poured the dino oil in the oil ran away from the heat.Next in went M1,the oil puddled in the center of the pan above the heat source.
My dad was a VW nut :D 1800cc,1835,1900,2180 you can see where this is going.more more more!!!
Of course he put M1 in and it leaked,just like they said it would.
But after a new engine was installed, more power remember,it didn't leak anymore than any other VW.The 1900 ran 90,000 miles!And dad drove the Hell out of that car.It only has 375,000 on it now!
When those engines came apart they looked like new inside,clean.
I know they have changed the formula over the years but full synthetic is the only way to go for me.
I am going to stay with the 5w-20 so I'll probley run Royal Purple.
bnvus
11-06-2002, 11:35 AM
I know for a fact running a thicker oil in the 4.6 can have a detrimental effect. We used to service the Crown Vics at our Base and one of the guys decided to put 10W-40 in the motor since we ran out of the 5w-30.
He failed to mention it until the car came back after a week. It SPLIT the oil filter at the seam! And this was in Southern California, so cold weather did not play a factor. We put another filter on thinking it was a defective filter--topped it off with 5W-30--fired it up and it still was reading over 60 pounds pressure!!
He confessed what had happened before we got too far into troubleshooting the problem further. But it was a lesson well learned.
DON'T DEVIATE from the factory's reccomendations. Especially in colder weather.
VaderSS
11-06-2002, 02:03 PM
5W20 is a CAFE driven oil, end of story. Do your engine a favor and run 5W30 at the least. The problem with 5W20 oils, are that when thy break down, the oil is dangerously thin. It is well known that most conventional 5W30s break down in short order, to a 20 weight oil. What is a 5W20 going to break down to?.
If you want to learn more about oil, try this site;
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi
Fourth Horseman
11-06-2002, 02:38 PM
Well, I'm sticking to Mobile 1 5w30 in my engine. I'm sorry, but I think 5w20 is just too light.
tetsu
11-06-2002, 03:10 PM
I haven't heard anything other than net.myth that the 5w20
is for CAFE. The added efficiency of 5w20 over 5w30 would be
very miniscule. This assertion just doesn't quite add up to me.
The idea that the 5w20 is needed because of the oiling
system in our motor needing thinner oil seems more logical.
If your oil flow is too slow because of the viscosity you
are gonna be in a bad bad place.
I'm considering switching to Royal Purple or Mobil One also
(though I heard RP is not 100% Synthetic.) However, I'm
sticking with the called for viscosity. If the 7-8 cylinders really
are experiencing failures on our engines and related engines,
I'd hesistate to have a warranty breaking oil in my pan.
I think I'm going to go with 2 more changes from my dealer to
break in the motor before I switch to Synthetic though.
Johnny
LincMercLover
11-06-2002, 06:14 PM
Check this out...
http://www.autopridegroup.com/switch.html
I don't know about using THEIR synthetic oil, they're saying you can go 25,000 miles on their oil! I'm not willing to even push that. But they make some good points of the break-in period. I still say I'm going to probably wait till the 1000 mark, change the oil and filter, and use Mobil 1 Synthetic. Then change it again every 3000/3.
RF Overlord
11-06-2002, 06:39 PM
My owner's manual states that 5W-20 oil is "recommended"...I don't see the word "required". I also can't believe that simply going one step up (or down) would invalidate the warranty...
My $0.02
bozobill
11-06-2002, 06:58 PM
Why take a chance? If you're bone stock and 7 or 8 goes away for ANY reason, being able to show receipts for Motorcraft 5W20 blended synthetic removes a main impediment to getting warranty work done. NEVER give them a reason to refuse.
VaderSS
11-06-2002, 08:01 PM
http://www.epa.gov/otaq/cert/dearmfr/ccd0112.pdf
Notice the fuel economy benefits. 5W20 offers a max .8% improvement over 5W30 and a max 2.2% improvement over 10W30. That may not seem like much to you and me, but that is HUGE, for an automaker that is having problems meeting CAFE, and facing serious consequences for not acheiving CAFE. Notice the owners manual language requirements, factory fill, dealer...
Sorry, but it's all about CAFE. I bet the same engine exported to a non-fuel economy regulating country would have 10W30 recommended...
EPA will approve the use of a GF-3 oil in test vehicles if the following conditions are satisfied:
1. Owner’s Manual Language. The manufacturer provides clear and unambiguous instructions in
the Owner’s Manual which identifying GF-3 non-synthetic engine oil of a specific viscosity grade
(e.g., 5W20, 5W30, 10W30) as the engine oil to be used under ambient temperature conditions likely
to be experienced during normal vehicle operation. It is appropriate for a manufacturer to specify the
use of a lower viscosity engine oil in extremely low ambient temperatures where the normally
specified oil may not flow adequately.
2. Labeling the Oil Filler Cap. The manufacturer clearly indicates on the engine oil filler cap, by
label or other permanently attached means, that GF-3 oil of a specific viscosity grade (e.g. GF-3
5W20) is to be used in the engine.
3. Limits on the Sum of 16-hour plus 96-hour Fuel Economy Improvement Factors. The engine oil
to be used in emissions and fuel economy test vehicles must have a combined fuel economy
improvement factor (using the ASTM Sequence VI-B (or its replacement procedure)) which does
not exceed the following limits:
GF-3 5W20 4.2%
GF-3 5W30 3.4%
GF-3 10W30 2.0%
The limits were calculated as the sum of the 16-hour and 96-hour limits plus 0.5 percent. The 0.5
percent was represented by the Alliance as covering about two standard deviations of the distribution
of fuel economy improvement rates measured by the ASTM procedures. EPA is setting these limits
because it is inappropriate for a manufacturer to select a significantly better oil for fuel economy
testing than the typical customer will be using in their vehicles.
4. Factory Fill Oil Requirements. The manufacturer uses GF-3 oil of the same viscosity rating as
factory fill in production vehicles. Furthermore, the fuel economy performance of the oils used as
factory fill must be equivalent or superior to the oils used in emission and fuel economy test vehicles.
5. Oils Available at Dealerships. The manufacturer supplies its dealers with GF-3 oils of the same
viscosity grade as used in the test vehicles or otherwise assures the use of the appropriate viscosity
grade GF-3 engine oil at dealerships. Furthermore, the fuel economy performance of the oils
supplied to dealers must be equivalent or superior to the oils used in emission and fuel economy test
vehicles.
1. Instructions to“Quick Change” Facilities and the Manufacturer’s Dealers to use 5W20 GF-3 Oils.
The manufacturer commits to do the following shortly after the start of the applicable model year:
a. Acquire from oil manufacturers and supply to EPA copies of materials that they supplied
to "quick oil change" facilities pertaining to the use of 5W20 GF-3 engine oil.
b. Provide EPA with copies of materials that the manufacturer sent to its dealers pertaining
to the use of 5W20 GF-3 engine oil in customer vehicles.
2. Follow-up Survey of 5W20 Oil Usage. The manufacturer commits to perform the following
either approximately two years after the use of 5W20 engine oil is approved by EPA, or immediately
prior to applying for 2004 model year certification:
a. Acquire from oil manufacturers and provide to EPA sales data of 5W20 and at least the
two highest-selling oils by viscosity grade (other than 5W20), promotional information
applicable to the use of 5W20 engine oil, and follow up letters of commitment for the
continued promotion of 5W20 engine oil; and
b. Acquire from oil manufacturers and provide to EPA the fuel efficiency data of their 5W20
and the highest-selling oils identified in a. above, relative to the reference oil as specified
in ASTM Sequence VI-B (or its replacement procedure). This information may be collected
and reported to EPA in conjunction with other vehicle manufacturers; and
c. Acquire and provide to EPA data on the retail prices of 5W20 and the highest selling oils
identified in a. above. Prices of non-synthetic, partial synthetic and synthetic oils are to be
included. This information may be collected and reported to EPA in conjunction with other
vehicle manufacturers.
This information will be used by EPA to determine whether approval of the use of 5W20 engine oil
should be extended beyond the 2003 model year.
LincMercLover
11-06-2002, 08:07 PM
I thought this was a reason why our cars (MM, CV, GM, TC) are built in Canada?
Logan
11-07-2002, 06:15 AM
They're built in Canada for the cheap labor and big tax breaks.
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