Just installed my SW long tube's and cat's [Archive]

LeoVampire

08-04-2009, 02:11 PM

I actualy did them a few week's ago but ran into some unexpected problem's like an O2 sensor that would not come out of the Driver's side manifold and the oil dipstick tube could not be reused so had to get money up to get replacement part's to make it work.

But I am glad I didn't change any other part of the stock exhaust because the sound with just the header's and cat's is awsome to say the least! If you take it easy it dosn't piss of the neighbor's although starting the car they always know it's me.

But damm when you hit the throttle you can't miss the car everyone look's to see what it is! The stock H pipe, muffler's and resinator tip's are staying right where they are as it's a perfect blend of sound and performance.

When you get on it I keep waiting for someone to **** a brick that is near the ass end of the car. Now just need to find someone with a video camera so I can post a sound video.

Definatly worth the money and wait to do this!

Black Dynamite

08-04-2009, 02:14 PM

Very nice! I would reccomend getting some new mufflers as the stock ones are pretty restrictive. Flowmasters sound good without being too loud IMO.

SO how much was the final cost?

MrBluGruv

08-04-2009, 02:15 PM

Sounds awesome, can't wait to pick a set up for myself. :)

Can anyone else confirm whether or not the O2 sensor or dipstick issues are common or would likely be something to have to address?

babbage

08-04-2009, 02:17 PM

LeoVampire

08-04-2009, 02:23 PM

Very nice! I would reccomend getting some new mufflers as the stock ones are pretty restrictive. Flowmasters sound good without being too loud IMO.

SO how much was the final cost?

$2,046.50 for the Long tube header's and high flow cat's ceramic coated silver. Stainless Work's

Bosch O2 direct fit sensor $49.95

Lokar flexable oil dipstick tube 51.95

Ford manifold gasket's $49.97

H-Pipe gasket's and bolt's and washers $11.32

Stage 8 locking header bolt's $68.00

LeoVampire

08-04-2009, 02:28 PM

Cool! So you bought the SW MAUCAT setup, and it bolted right up to factory H pipe?

Pics? Depending on miles a fresh set of O2 sensors wouldn't be a bad idea -- after 100K they are toast and should be replaced IMHO...

Tell me about the oil dipstick tube? I don't get it what does that have to do with headers. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mj5ms9PJDNY

I could not get it to work past the header's and the motor mount so had to get a flexable dipstick tube that Lokar make's for modular 4.6 Ford engine's.

My car only just hit 39,000 mile's this last weekend. And yep got the Maucat set up and it bolted right up to the H-pipe.

Also had to use a 90 degree air grinder and grind down the stearing link to keep it from hitting one of the header tube's.

I did this alone and on my back with just the front end on jack stand's. Never had to lift the engine up or disconect the motor mount's.

MrBluGruv

08-04-2009, 02:32 PM

LeoVampire

08-04-2009, 02:36 PM

how much of that mounting hardware and gaskets come with the headers? would I be correct in assuming none? the only one that draws my attention really is the Ford manifold gaskets, as I'll have the headers welded onto the existing pipe.

the 2 header's / 2 high flow cat's / the pipe's that run from the back of the cat's to the H-Pipe / 4 wide strap clamp's for the cat's / and 2 O2 extention wire's

I listed all the hardwear I bought as well. Some guys have used the stock stud's and nut's for the header's but I wanted something better to keep them from losening up.

And I was told by a few guys that the Ford exhaust manifold gasket's were the best to use so got new one's for the install like new H-pipe bolt's and gasket's to make sure there were no leak's.

MrBluGruv

08-04-2009, 02:49 PM

LeoVampire

08-04-2009, 02:55 PM

ahh, makes sense. thanks for the clarification. :)

For some reason I manage to scare myself out of doing a lot of mods because of how much extra hardware it seems I'm gonna have to buy to "do it properly".

That was the only unexpected cost for me the other stuff I bought ahead of time knowing I would need them or should use them.

Problem is I was out of money when I needed the O2 sensor and oil dipstick tube so had to wait a few weeks for my next check before I could even start the car. Wasn;t willing to start it without everything in place as it should be. Stuck a cork in the distick engine hole and the O2 sensor hole to make sure no rain or critter's got into place's I didn't want until the part's came in.

ImpalaSlayer

08-04-2009, 02:59 PM

did you cut the header flange on the drivers side to accomodate the dip stick tube? shouldnt have had a problem. my kooks came with this piece already removed

CBT

08-04-2009, 03:06 PM

Nice stuff, man. :up:

LeoVampire

08-04-2009, 03:06 PM

did you cut the header flange on the drivers side to accomodate the dip stick tube? shouldnt have had a problem. my kooks came with this piece already removed

Would not have made a difference one of the header tube's pushed the dipstick tube in a way where the header tube and the motor mount both became a problem.

Other than the extra cash being needed it was no big deal because the new dipstick and tube looks awsome with all of Daniel's dress up stuff from Colex.

Lokar is making me a matching Tranny dipstick as we speak. I bought a new one from Ford and sent it to Lokar because there is a bracket on our's that hold's 3 set's of plug's for wireing and sensor's but it will mount in 2 places on the tranny and also up near the top of the engine so it will be easier to access the tranny dip stick than the stock one is.

They said $80.00 for the custom job and they will be sending me back the one I bought from Ford with the new one they are making.

ImpalaSlayer

08-04-2009, 03:08 PM

ahh i see.

babbage

08-04-2009, 07:46 PM

I could not get it to work past the header's and the motor mount so had to get a flexable dipstick tube that Lokar make's for modular 4.6 Ford engine's.

My car only just hit 39,000 mile's this last weekend. And yep got the Maucat set up and it bolted right up to the H-pipe.

Also had to use a 90 degree air grinder and grind down the stearing link to keep it from hitting one of the header tube's.

I did this alone and on my back with just the front end on jack stand's. Never had to lift the engine up or disconect the motor mount's.

Hugh-da-man, thats what I like to hear - now I just need an extra $2300 :D

I noticed my dipstick is a two piece setup - rivoted together in the middle. Kinda weird -- Is the aftermarket one the same length?

Are you going to go and get it dynotuned now? Congrats on the install :beer: sounds like you did your homework. Only tip I could add - others here added heat/sound mat material above the headers to help keep cool and quiet. You can still probably do this just a little harder to get it in there.

FordNut

08-04-2009, 07:59 PM

Would not have made a difference one of the header tube's pushed the dipstick tube in a way where the header tube and the motor mount both became a problem.

Other than the extra cash being needed it was no big deal because the new dipstick and tube looks awsome with all of Daniel's dress up stuff from Colex.

Lokar is making me a matching Tranny dipstick as we speak. I bought a new one from Ford and sent it to Lokar because there is a bracket on our's that hold's 3 set's of plug's for wireing and sensor's but it will mount in 2 places on the tranny and also up near the top of the engine so it will be easier to access the tranny dip stick than the stock one is.

They said $80.00 for the custom job and they will be sending me back the one I bought from Ford with the new one they are making.

Maybe the tube would have gone in if you had pulled the motor mount? It's a PITA to get it in with the motor mount in place even with the stock manifolds.

LeoVampire

08-05-2009, 08:24 AM

Maybe the tube would have gone in if you had pulled the motor mount? It's a PITA to get it in with the motor mount in place even with the stock manifolds.

Spent 2 days trying to figure out a way to get the OEM tube back into the engine the angle ended up being such a problem with the headers in there that I ended up snapping the end of the tube where it goes into the engine block.
Even tryed to use a tubbing bender to change the tube enough to make it work but was still a no go.
When I talked to SW about it they said some guys have had a problem with this as well.

LeoVampire

08-05-2009, 08:34 AM

Because it was made for the 2v 4.6 Modular engine but it is held in place by one of the original oil dipstick tube places and is still easy to get at and looks just fine! And the clearance after it is in is perfect for the motor mount and the header tube's. A nice tight fit and an exact match to ours as far as the part of it that goes into the engine.
Here are some pics. And yes I have to polish the headers they look a lot better than this.

16710

16711

16712

16713

Hugh-da-man, thats what I like to hear - now I just need an extra $2300 :D

I noticed my dipstick is a two piece setup - rivoted together in the middle. Kinda weird -- Is the aftermarket one the same length?

Are you going to go and get it dynotuned now? Congrats on the install :beer: sounds like you did your homework. Only tip I could add - others here added heat/sound mat material above the headers to help keep cool and quiet. You can still probably do this just a little harder to get it in there.

babbage

08-05-2009, 09:17 AM

Nice pics thanks for posting.

O's Fan Rich

08-05-2009, 09:20 AM

LeoVampire

08-05-2009, 10:21 AM

You're welcome.

When I was stuck with the dipstick problem you pointed me to the Lokar dipsticks thanks for the info!

Granted I had a need for it after the headers but I am sure a lot of guys will get them for the dress up look.

And your welcome babbage for the pics and info.

Figured it was the least I can do with all the info I get from everyone on here for my Mistress as my neighbor's have good heartly named her for me LOL!

MrBluGruv

08-05-2009, 10:32 AM

you'll have to forgive me for the constant questions, but do you have the part numbers for the Bosch sensor and the Ford manifold gaskets?

LeoVampire

08-05-2009, 12:00 PM

you'll have to forgive me for the constant questions, but do you have the part numbers for the Bosch sensor and the Ford manifold gaskets?

Manifold gasket's Part Number: FMC 2C5Z9448BA $27.98 Passenger Side
FMC 2C5Z9448AA $21.99 Driver Side

Bosch O2 sensor Part Number: BCH-15717 $49.95 all 4 O2 sensors are the same number

Paul T. Casey

08-05-2009, 12:15 PM

Can anyone else confirm whether or not the O2 sensor or dipstick issues are common or would likely be something to have to address?

I had to "customize" my dipstick with the Kooks as well. As for the O2's, mine were no problem, but I was working with a one year old car as opposed to a 5 or 6 year old car. I'm guessing most of the O2's are a bit more coroded in place nowadays.

Leo, when I get home, we'll have to meet up someplace.

LeoVampire

08-05-2009, 12:31 PM

I had to "customize" my dipstick with the Kooks as well. As for the O2's, mine were no problem, but I was working with a one year old car as opposed to a 5 or 6 year old car. I'm guessing most of the O2's are a bit more coroded in place nowadays.

Leo, when I get home, we'll have to meet up someplace.

Ya I am doing all of this stuff late because I didn't know about the web site or what was available for our car's until last year. So little things here and there are bound to pop up when making changes. that is why I don't take chances when I replace something that has a gasket I just buy a new one to advoid other complications.
Just like when I put the Colex coil covers on I bought new gasket's for them to make sure no water would get into that area. Better safe than sorry down the road.
When I was working as a manager / mechanic it wasn't always easy getting a customer to let me do things proper because money was always an issue to people in a shop. But I don't take chances with my own car's and never will! Do it right the first time so you only end up doing it once and you may save your life and keep your car running without issues for years to come.

LeoVampire

08-05-2009, 12:54 PM

Hugh-da-man, thats what I like to hear - now I just need an extra $2300 :D

I noticed my dipstick is a two piece setup - rivoted together in the middle. Kinda weird -- Is the aftermarket one the same length?

Are you going to go and get it dynotuned now? Congrats on the install :beer: sounds like you did your homework. Only tip I could add - others here added heat/sound mat material above the headers to help keep cool and quiet. You can still probably do this just a little harder to get it in there.

But no it will be easy to do the heat shielding there is plenty of room to work with as for sound I had used Herculiner bed liner under the car before I did this and did sound proofing inside of the car on the floors and doors but still have the trunk to do yet. Have to do things as the money come's in. I am going to get the self sticking heat shild stuff at Summit that a guy sugested on here in a thread for the underside and to wrap a few things just in case although there seems to be a lot of room inbetween the cat's and the headers from everything else other than the stearing link that is the only part that is too close for my comfort.

But my OEM dipstick was one piece so surprised to hear that yours was a 2 piece.

But I have no desire to tune the car just plan to make the changes in the computor for what parts I change that it needs info on. Not looking to race the car just make her a show car in her own way and get noticed of the muscle car she is supose to be. Never even raced her against another car have just showed off a little here and there with burnout's and what not.

Actualy sorry I did race 2 State Trooper's in 2005 that asked me if I would but that was the last time I did anything like that on a serious level.

DOOM

08-05-2009, 01:07 PM

Where did you buy your gaskets from???

LeoVampire

08-05-2009, 01:24 PM

Where did you buy your gaskets from???

Manifold gaskets from a local Ford Dealership CrestWood Ford in Watertown.
Would have gotten the H-pipe gasket's from them too but forgot about them when I ordered the other stuff.

H-Pipe gaskets from a local part's store along with the bolt's, washers, nuts and anti-sieze Gary's Auto Part's Waterbury

The stage 8 locking header bolt's from Jannetty Racing in Waterbury

Seneca

08-05-2009, 01:45 PM

Spent 2 days trying to figure out a way to get the OEM tube back into the engine the angle ended up being such a problem with the headers in there that I ended up snapping the end of the tube where it goes into the engine block.
Even tryed to use a tubbing bender to change the tube enough to make it work but was still a no go.
When I talked to SW about it they said some guys have had a problem with this as well.
It will go in. you do have to pull the motor mount loose if i remember rightnot remove but loosen. then it take a very little bit of massaging to the tube, Had my stainless works headers installed with factory dip stick in about 5 hours. Also didnt cut the flange either.

GetMeMyStogie

08-05-2009, 02:16 PM

Also had to use a 90 degree air grinder and grind down the stearing link to keep it from hitting one of the header tube's.

:eek: That doesn't sound good. Steering components are vital to the safety of the vehicle - they shouldn't be modified in any way. Relocating them may be okay, but not grinding/bending/cutting etc.

Seneca

08-05-2009, 04:10 PM

:eek: That doesn't sound good. Steering components are vital to the safety of the vehicle - they shouldn't be modified in any way. Relocating them may be okay, but not grinding/bending/cutting etc. Agreed.. I believe if i remember right in the directions some cars required a 1/4 inch shim to the left (driver side) motor mount because of the steering shaft rubbing the header. Mines very close. No issues as of yet 5000 miles later.

LeoVampire

08-05-2009, 04:13 PM

It will go in. you do have to pull the motor mount loose if i remember rightnot remove but loosen. then it take a very little bit of massaging to the tube, Had my stainless works headers installed with factory dip stick in about 5 hours. Also didnt cut the flange either.

Believe me I was trying to save some cash so I did try to get the motor mount out of the way get the tube in the bolt it up and that is when the oil diptick tube end cracked on me.

You have to remember everytime someone make's a header it isn't always the exact same replica of the first one. The one on the driver side that I got had every problem all in one shot that others had mentioned.

The dipstick problem, the stearing linkage hitting problem, the egr tube not lineing up properly problem.

SW admited each of them have come up individualy in the past for people but I was the first they knew of that had 3 problems at the same time.

Seneca

08-05-2009, 04:17 PM

Believe me I was trying to save some cash so I did try to get the motor mount out of the way get the tube in the bolt it up and that is when the oil diptick tube end cracked on me.

You have to remember everytime someone make's a header it isn't always the exact same replica of the first one. The one on the driver side that I got had every problem all in one shot that others had mentioned.

The dipstick problem, the stearing linkage hitting problem, the egr tube not lineing up properly problem.

SW admited each of them have come up individualy in the past for people but I was the first they knew of that had 3 problems at the same time.Very true.. I did have the problem with the egr tube. It was a real PITA to get bent.. very springy!.. atleast you had a nice out come. A friend of mine. Jack on here's running stainless works headers highflow cats thru factory exhaust.. i have to admit it does have a pretty nasty sound! I think it's louder then mine. lol.. :banana2:

LeoVampire

08-05-2009, 04:18 PM

Agreed.. I believe if i remember right in the directions some cars required a 1/4 inch shim to the left (driver side) motor mount because of the steering shaft rubbing the header. Mines very close. No issues as of yet 5000 miles later.

When trying to get headers built or on a hot rod or in a muscle car in the old day's we did more than you can imagine to make the work.

Cut a stearing linkage and make a smaller around connection sleave for the two end's to fit inbetween the pipe's or past them and much more.

You would be surprised what you can do safely that work's and now when it's thousands of dollars instead of hundred's you have to find way's.

03mmmonroe

08-05-2009, 05:11 PM

FordNut

08-05-2009, 06:33 PM

Same with Kooks. Some hit the steering shaft and need grinding on the shaft, some sets clear just fine.

burt ragio

08-06-2009, 05:20 AM

Very nice! I would reccomend getting some new mufflers as the stock ones are pretty restrictive. Flowmasters sound good without being too loud IMO.

SO how much was the final cost?

The stock mufflers are just the opposite they flow quit well & are non restrictive up to apx. 435hp. Many n/a & supercharched members have proven this in the past .

burt ragio

08-06-2009, 05:41 AM

did you cut the header flange on the drivers side to accomodate the dip stick tube? shouldnt have had a problem. my kooks came with this piece already removed

The s/w header flang doesn't interfere with the dip stick tube. The tube is just a royal PITA to properly manuver into place. The tube installation had Bob & I scratching our head for a few mins.

O's Fan Rich

08-06-2009, 06:26 AM

The s/w header flang doesn't interfere with the dip stick tube. The tube is just a royal PITA to properly manuver into place. The tube installation had Bob & I scratching our head for a few mins.

Man.... you ain't kidding!

Then a rod flies out of the side of your block and bends the crap out of it!

Paul T. Casey

08-06-2009, 06:33 AM

Man.... you ain't kidding!

Then a rod flies out of the side of your block and bends the crap out of it!

Sorry, but this made me laugh.

O's Fan Rich

08-06-2009, 06:55 AM

Sorry, but this made me laugh.

Me too, Paul...... well sort of.... you know the nervous kind of laughter you get when really you want to cry?

or you realize that your wallet is about to get a LOT lighter.....

LeoVampire

08-06-2009, 09:18 AM

After they were in had to use a whole saw and cut holes in the wheel well's so we could change out the spark plug's after word's no way to do them without it.

Definatly like the new design's on the newer engine's for thing's like that!

I tell you though the car sound's like a demon that's trying to get out every time I rev it with the stock muffler's and resinator tip's.

At an idle you wouldn't think to much about the car being near the exhaust but the second you rev it all of the attention of everyone around you is there! Give it a quick snap high rev and it sounds like it has some bad ass cam's in it!

LeoVampire

08-06-2009, 09:21 AM

You were not the first with all three concerns. I also had to work with these item. I spoke to jim at sw and he told me the same thing. Glad it worked out for you. I could not get the mid pipe to line up with the h-pipe and get a good seal.

Russ

But I didn't have a problem with the H-pipe at all thank god the other 3 were enough LOL!!! But I didn't trust the slide on work of the converter's so I did use a little mud around the connection's before putting it on to make sure it all sealed the first time.

hamcheese

08-07-2009, 09:14 AM

Is there a set of headers that do not require all that modification? Besides stock? :depress:...and what would you recommend?

FordNut

08-07-2009, 09:17 AM

Is there a set of headers that do not require all that modification? Besides stock? :depress:...and what would you recommend?

You're in Kalifornia, leave it stock.

MrBluGruv

08-08-2009, 12:48 PM

Of all the problems mentioned above ultimately, the steering shaft rub is the only one that genuinely worries me. I refuse to shem away at it to get headers to fit, I just can't be comfortable cutting away at something as vital as that. If I could have a guarantee that given time and say a little extra work and finesse the headers could be guided in and not have that problem, I'd go for it, but that issue is really getting me worried about doing this...

burt ragio

08-08-2009, 04:24 PM

MrBluGruv that's why they call these performance mods. Little things like shimming a motor mount or grinding a steering shaft to further adjust a fit is all part of the game we play with performance enhancements.

MrBluGruv

08-11-2009, 10:14 AM

LeoVampire

08-11-2009, 10:57 AM

I hardly count unnecessarily risking the structural integrity of a vital part of my car a "performance mod". An intake doesn't damage my car, a new muffler isn't playing a game with its safety, even a new ECU tune isn't inherently bad. I can see having to replace things like manifold gaskets and O2 sensors, but hacking away at my steering shaft, NOT cool.

They have a curve to them with 2 off center u-joint's on the shaft which causes it to have an oblong rotation instead of a straight on rotation this is why the shaft has to be slightly modified and or possably adding a couple of spacer shims to the motor mount to slightly lift that side away from the stearing shaft.

The worm gear inside of the rack and pinion unit is designed to brake long before a stearing shaft is for starters. Second your stearing shaft system is also designed to snap on a serious head on impact so the stearing assembly dosn't get ramed into your chest.

The amount of material that needs to be removed if you have that problem is minimal.

MrBluGruv

08-11-2009, 01:43 PM

With that knowledge in hand I can live with it a little better. Now just gotta justify the price and bite the bullet. ;)

PSG

08-18-2009, 01:31 PM

hey, i am only about 15 min away and i have been planning a header install, i would be interested in hearing your car and seeing the issues with the steering column, are you around this weekend?

LeoVampire

09-03-2009, 10:12 AM

hey, i am only about 15 min away and i have been planning a header install, i would be interested in hearing your car and seeing the issues with the steering column, are you around this weekend?

I didn't even see or know about your post! I didn't set it up for the e-mail reminder of other posts. You should have sent me a PM to make sure I got your message.

When I get the engine back together from what I am doing now I will send you a PM so you can come listen to the car and see the difference for yourself. Is that cool?

There are so many posts on here some times it's hard to find new ones I am interested in like this.

LeoVampire

09-29-2009, 12:51 PM

I bought 2 12" x 24" self sticking heat shilds that Thermo-Tec make's from Summit racing. I did notice a little build up of warmpth on the floor boards after I did the headers and high flow cats so figured better safe than sorry.

I ran it from the base of the firewall to just past the converters. Here is the link for what I used.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/THE-13575/

$17.95 for each sheat so not bad a price. I bought a cheap hard roller to work the air bubbles out as I was placing it just go slow with pealing the backing off because man when this stuff sticks it really sticks. And had to punch a hole into it for a large bolt to go through it stuff is tuff as nails to make a hole in so to speak.

Here are pics of it. Sorry I was on my back taking them with the car on the ground so could not do full shots.

17271

17272

cougar9150

09-29-2009, 01:51 PM

These are the exact same sheets I used. I cut back the factory stuff and trimmed the sheets to fit. I probably used about 16" by the 12" because of difficulty cleaning some areas of the undercarriage. I did the install prior to putting the headers in because I noticed my factory shielding was drooping and touching the exhaust.

In the spots I had the air bubbles I just made a slit with razor blade and pushed it in. It exposed a little of the metal underneath but not enough to expose anything larger than a 1/16", so I don't think it will affect the heat deflection properties at all.