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View Full Version : My 04 MM 2nd life



torotoy
08-07-2009, 05:57 PM
How much do love my stone stock 04 MM,

Today I ordered the following,

ALUMINATOR 4.6L DOHC LONG BLOCK NATURALLY ASPIRATED M-6007-A46NA it's 10-1 compression $6000.
Triolgy SC $5995.
4261046 Baer GT-Plus 14" kit in black of course $1399.
DO932 Baer rear rotors $193.
DO932 rear pads $58.
ACO-650 Addco $154.
ACO-2196 Addco $189.
IM gonna cut the front springs run on the dyno and see if that trips my trigger. Should be a good start, now jump in and critique me :D
Rick's 04 in Seattle

TAKEDOWN
08-07-2009, 06:55 PM
Here goes... I hate you, you lucky bastard! :beer:

torotoy
08-07-2009, 07:05 PM
Well thank you, I wish it was luck but I have saved $400. every month since I bought it so I could make it the way I wanted and it was hard to do that.

Pat
08-07-2009, 07:55 PM
Is there something wrong with your motor now? The 04 engine with it's dual knock sensors, upgraded 4r75 and higher stall speed converter is adequate to handle the Trilogy.

I must ask do you have less than 60K miles on the meter? If so then putting 6K into another engine just shows you have deep pockets.

Bring us up to speed on the need for an upgraded engine? All else makes sense but a Trilogy/tune should give you a fast, reliable street machine on your present engine.

Your post leaves alot of unanswered questions. Just trying to understand your logic.

Regards,

torotoy
08-07-2009, 08:35 PM
got 92,000 miles shes running fine now (ruff idle is all) as I just performed a engine solvent flush and cleaned all the massive carbon from the throttle body put in new plugs and cked the tune

did all that cuz no 8 cly has a burned or bent intake val

thought id start with 9.5 psi and see how I like it, but knowing me I will want more boost later and with that new all forged eng I'll feel warm and fuzzy about it

I wish I had deep pockets just been saving my mony for a long time

merc
08-07-2009, 08:45 PM
The 04 engine with it's dual knock sensors, upgraded 4r75 and higher stall speed converter is adequate to handle the Trilogy.

Regards,

Dual knock sensors are meaningless on a Trilogy Marauder even if relocated. The slightly improved stall is not a real factor on the track and should be upgraded. What's missing is widen wheels because stock rears will go bye bye soon after installation.

cassidy
08-07-2009, 09:07 PM
I know we all love our cars...but they become money pits... It is easy to spend $30,000 more on a $30,000 car. It is a machine and in my experience after 120,000 miles, little things hundred dollar you to death. General reliability falls, unless you are into preventative (read OCD) maintenance like replacing starters and alternators BEFORE they go. Power window motors, gas tank leaks, electronics can all make you wish you bought a garage kept Marauder cream puff and at least started with a not worn out platform.

Heck if you are over 200 lbs., your seats start to wear and sag... Don't get me wrong the Panther platform is ultra heavy duty...look at the taxis and police cars using our body on frame construction. The luxury and sometimes essential features tend to lose their luster after 100,000 miles. There are exceptions, but all things equal, I say start with a "NEW" Marauder...they are out there believe me.

O's Fan Rich
08-08-2009, 05:07 AM
How much do love my stone stock 04 MM,

Today I ordered the following,

ALUMINATOR 4.6L DOHC LONG BLOCK NATURALLY ASPIRATED M-6007-A46NA it's 10-1 compression $6000.
Triolgy SC $5995.
4261046 Baer GT-Plus 14" kit in black of course $1399.
DO932 Baer rear rotors $193.
DO932 rear pads $58.
ACO-650 Addco $154.
ACO-2196 Addco $189.
IM gonna cut the front springs run on the dyno and see if that trips my trigger. Should be a good start, now jump in and critique me :D
Rick's 04 in Seattle


Good for you.

What? No new transmission?.......:D

in2deep
08-08-2009, 06:32 AM
If you paid 6 grand for the Aluminator you got *****.

Baaad GN
08-08-2009, 05:31 PM
No SW headers? Gezzzzzzzzzzz

ChiTownMaraud3r
08-08-2009, 08:04 PM
Sounds like my splurging in mods, but on Forza 2 on the xbox..

twin03
08-09-2009, 12:16 AM
Good for you brother.

rayjay
08-09-2009, 04:27 AM
Congrats! :beer: but, isn't it better to go with 8.5 - 9.5 compression for a blower?

FordNut
08-09-2009, 05:24 AM
Congrats! :beer: but, isn't it better to go with 8.5 - 9.5 compression for a blower?

The stock engine is 10:1. How many of them have blowers? 200 Trilogy kits, probably 50 or more centrifugals.

torotoy
08-09-2009, 06:57 PM
"Congrats! :beer: but, isn't it better to go with 8.5 - 9.5 compression for a blower?"

i got the aluminator NA it's 10-1 the same as the stock MM plus I get all forged parts with the latest rev cobra heads and cam

Yea its more motor than the Triolgy can satisfy in stock form 9.5psi but Im gonna experiance it that way first stock exh and all

Ican nitro it change a pulley more boost upgrade the fuel delivery exh ect...

and feel fuzzy warm about the all forged pieces as i grow into it I love my MM and I want it to last "long time Joe":banana:

CoreyM75
08-10-2009, 07:47 AM
Congrats on the new toys for your toy. Lucky sob.

rayjay
08-10-2009, 04:31 PM
The stock engine is 10:1. How many of them have blowers? 200 Trilogy kits, probably 50 or more centrifugals.

Brian, I understand that. I was under the impression, right or wrong, that lower compression was better for a boosted engine.

Hooptie
08-10-2009, 04:51 PM
Brian, I understand that. I was under the impression, right or wrong, that lower compression was better for a boosted engine.
Yes generally lower compression is better for boosted engines but as Brian has stated there are 200+ Trilogys and 50 or so centrifugals running at 10:1 compression.

merc
08-10-2009, 05:32 PM
Yes generally lower compression is better for boosted engines but as Brian has stated there are 200+ Trilogys and 50 or so centrifugals running at 10:1 compression.

What he forgot to say is how many of them have blown engines.

O's Fan Rich
08-10-2009, 05:33 PM
I know of a 10.1 compression stroker with the Trilogy Twin screw running 16 pounds of boost on 93 octane......

Bradley G
08-10-2009, 05:45 PM
Dual knock sensors are meaningless on a Trilogy Marauder even if relocated(quote)
Please explain, if they are meaningless why would they be utilized and still functioning?

merc
08-10-2009, 06:00 PM
Dual knock sensors are meaningless on a Trilogy Marauder even if relocated(quote)
Please explain, if they are meaningless why would they be utilized and still functioning?

Knock sensor does two things for your vehicle's engine: (1) it allows optimum engine performance and (2) it protects the engine from potential damages caused by detonation.
Most modern engine management systems incorporate a knock sensor or two for closed loop timing control. These systems only have a limited amount of control and are designed to stop detonation in the normal operating range of the engine, not to compensate for 12 lbs. of boost on a 95° day. The sensor itself is a piezo-electric accelerometer, or a sort of an electronic tuning fork. It's tuned to create an output voltage and is designed to bore and chamber geometries. When a given frequency of knock is detected, it in turn sends a signal back to the ECU identifying detonation, and the ECU retards timing.

When trying to get maximum drag strip performance out of a feed-back timing control engine, you might want to disconnect the knock sensor. The sensor is designed to listen for vibration, and it does a very good job. Anything that can cause a harmonic might be picked up by the sensor and be interpreted as detonation. The major problem with that lies in what is called the hysteresis of knock. Once knock starts, you need to pull out more timing than would originally be needed for knock to ever occur. For example, if your Marauder makes maximum torque and doesn't detonate at 23° advance and you advance the timing to 29° and detonation occurs, the knock sensor may have to pull the timing out to 29° to stop the knock. There goes the timing and there goes your ET and mph. Also, at WOT the engine might knock, just for a millisecond, and bingo, there goes the timing. If you have an exhaust that shifts slightly during hard acceleration and vibrates, say goodbye to advance again.


Most tuners when adding spark lower the spark sensitivity or turn them off completely because of the vibration a roots or twin screw blower causing on the block. We like to think that knock sensors protect our engines from harm. At WOT your vehicle computer will not take enough timing out of the engine for it to be saved. Normal driving, a tank of bad gas will kill your trilogy marauder. I tested this theory a couple of years ago with my base kit. I monitored the spark while the engine was pinging. You could clearly hear the engine knock badly and if I were racing this would be a disaster.

Truthfully there is not a gauge or monitor that will protect your engine from a catastrophic failure. The oil pressure gauge will notify you of some problems but when racing it's a waste of time. When it read 0 psi you are already dead.

The 03/04 Cobra don't come with any knock sensors. I read an artical stating that ford choose not to put one on the 03/04 cobra because the noise generated by the eaton. Lower compress adds some safety and reduces the possibility of knock. The Cobra Mustangs uses a dual IAT sensor (one in the MAF and the other in the intake) to add a level of protection

Glenn
08-10-2009, 06:08 PM
I know of a 10.1 compression stroker with the Trilogy Twin screw running 16 pounds of boost on 93 octane......

Rich:

I know of a stock internal TS running 16# - it's in ATL and I've been in it. A real runner! :beer:

Torotoy;

Also, PLEASE do not cut your springs.

Glenn :burnout:

torotoy
10-16-2009, 02:18 PM
The aluminator eng and triolgy blower are coming together in seattle!!!

I'll post pic's and dyno results in a few weeks.


Got a question on sway bars, addco has tubular bars for marauders 1-3/8 front and 1-1/8 rear

Anybody use these vice the solid ones ???????

Will they work??????????

ImpalaSlayer
10-16-2009, 02:23 PM
toro, cutting the front springs will have no ill effects on the ride. i cut mine and it still rides as factory. it lowered the front about an inch and the rake looks awesome. congrats on all your parts!

Hadamustang1
10-16-2009, 02:44 PM
where are you getting the work done? I would like to check it out...

torotoy
10-16-2009, 02:46 PM
Brads Custom Auto, call dane at 206 367-1471

Mr. Man
10-16-2009, 02:53 PM
Might think about 31 splines with the extra power

Bradley G
10-16-2009, 05:28 PM
Thanks for that detailed explanation!
Knock sensor does two things for your vehicle's engine: (1) it allows optimum engine performance and (2) it protects the engine from potential damages caused by detonation.
Most modern engine management systems incorporate a knock sensor or two for closed loop timing control. These systems only have a limited amount of control and are designed to stop detonation in the normal operating range of the engine, not to compensate for 12 lbs. of boost on a 95° day. The sensor itself is a piezo-electric accelerometer, or a sort of an electronic tuning fork. It's tuned to create an output voltage and is designed to bore and chamber geometries. When a given frequency of knock is detected, it in turn sends a signal back to the ECU identifying detonation, and the ECU retards timing.

When trying to get maximum drag strip performance out of a feed-back timing control engine, you might want to disconnect the knock sensor. The sensor is designed to listen for vibration, and it does a very good job. Anything that can cause a harmonic might be picked up by the sensor and be interpreted as detonation. The major problem with that lies in what is called the hysteresis of knock. Once knock starts, you need to pull out more timing than would originally be needed for knock to ever occur. For example, if your Marauder makes maximum torque and doesn't detonate at 23° advance and you advance the timing to 29° and detonation occurs, the knock sensor may have to pull the timing out to 29° to stop the knock. There goes the timing and there goes your ET and mph. Also, at WOT the engine might knock, just for a millisecond, and bingo, there goes the timing. If you have an exhaust that shifts slightly during hard acceleration and vibrates, say goodbye to advance again.


Most tuners when adding spark lower the spark sensitivity or turn them off completely because of the vibration a roots or twin screw blower causing on the block. We like to think that knock sensors protect our engines from harm. At WOT your vehicle computer will not take enough timing out of the engine for it to be saved. Normal driving, a tank of bad gas will kill your trilogy marauder. I tested this theory a couple of years ago with my base kit. I monitored the spark while the engine was pinging. You could clearly hear the engine knock badly and if I were racing this would be a disaster.

Truthfully there is not a gauge or monitor that will protect your engine from a catastrophic failure. The oil pressure gauge will notify you of some problems but when racing it's a waste of time. When it read 0 psi you are already dead.

The 03/04 Cobra don't come with any knock sensors. I read an artical stating that ford choose not to put one on the 03/04 cobra because the noise generated by the eaton. Lower compress adds some safety and reduces the possibility of knock. The Cobra Mustangs uses a dual IAT sensor (one in the MAF and the other in the intake) to add a level of protection

ImpalaSlayer
10-16-2009, 05:35 PM
Knock sensor does two things for your vehicle's engine: (1) it allows optimum engine performance and (2) it protects the engine from potential damages caused by detonation.
Most modern engine management systems incorporate a knock sensor or two for closed loop timing control. These systems only have a limited amount of control and are designed to stop detonation in the normal operating range of the engine, not to compensate for 12 lbs. of boost on a 95° day. The sensor itself is a piezo-electric accelerometer, or a sort of an electronic tuning fork. It's tuned to create an output voltage and is designed to bore and chamber geometries. When a given frequency of knock is detected, it in turn sends a signal back to the ECU identifying detonation, and the ECU retards timing.

When trying to get maximum drag strip performance out of a feed-back timing control engine, you might want to disconnect the knock sensor. The sensor is designed to listen for vibration, and it does a very good job. Anything that can cause a harmonic might be picked up by the sensor and be interpreted as detonation. The major problem with that lies in what is called the hysteresis of knock. Once knock starts, you need to pull out more timing than would originally be needed for knock to ever occur. For example, if your Marauder makes maximum torque and doesn't detonate at 23° advance and you advance the timing to 29° and detonation occurs, the knock sensor may have to pull the timing out to 29° to stop the knock. There goes the timing and there goes your ET and mph. Also, at WOT the engine might knock, just for a millisecond, and bingo, there goes the timing. If you have an exhaust that shifts slightly during hard acceleration and vibrates, say goodbye to advance again.


Most tuners when adding spark lower the spark sensitivity or turn them off completely because of the vibration a roots or twin screw blower causing on the block. We like to think that knock sensors protect our engines from harm. At WOT your vehicle computer will not take enough timing out of the engine for it to be saved. Normal driving, a tank of bad gas will kill your trilogy marauder. I tested this theory a couple of years ago with my base kit. I monitored the spark while the engine was pinging. You could clearly hear the engine knock badly and if I were racing this would be a disaster.

Truthfully there is not a gauge or monitor that will protect your engine from a catastrophic failure. The oil pressure gauge will notify you of some problems but when racing it's a waste of time. When it read 0 psi you are already dead.

The 03/04 Cobra don't come with any knock sensors. I read an artical stating that ford choose not to put one on the 03/04 cobra because the noise generated by the eaton. Lower compress adds some safety and reduces the possibility of knock. The Cobra Mustangs uses a dual IAT sensor (one in the MAF and the other in the intake) to add a level of protection

cobras only have one IAT. there is no IAT in a cobra maf.

Hadamustang1
02-28-2014, 01:07 PM
Bump.. any update? I wonder how it all came out.. ?

Chayton
02-28-2014, 01:15 PM
http://www.hackettstownlife.com/images/forum/2010/08/f60f968070f21ba3f1b42d856e26a1 0f921fda19.jpg

Hadamustang1
02-28-2014, 01:18 PM
inquiring minds want to know..

Pat
02-28-2014, 05:09 PM
Torotoy is still a member, I'll send him a PM. In late 2012 he was asking aboujt LCM repair from Fastblackmerc.

Pat
03-04-2014, 09:42 AM
Hey guys, got a nice reply from Torotoy today, the results of his modification efforts are, and I quote, "436/428 HP/T, pop your eye balls and set your hair on fire".