how to remove rear rotors?

[lifespeed]

They seem to be be seized on the axle. I am assuming they are rusted to the hub around the center, not the flat surface.

Any ideas? I tried a 3-jaw puller, but didn't want to get too carried away. The e-brake cable had slack in it. Besides, the axle was moving in and out against the play in the C-clips, it did not seem to be the parking brake pads holding them on.

Help! I've got an almost-complete new brake job with Hawk Ferro-Carbon and Command Automotive cryo rotors, but I can't get those cursed rear rotors off.

[ledzilla]

What I did was jack up the entire rear of the car into the air so neither rear wheel touched the ground. Then I gave a few good taps on the rotor where the caliper was. I went to the other side of the car and gave the opposite wheel a half-turn. I returned to teh other side and then gave the rotor a few more firm taps with a hammer. I went back and forth doing that until the rotor came off, and repeated the procedure for the other side after I had finished the first side and put it back together. There may be a better method, but it worked very well for me. It took some time, with all the walking and wheel turning, but I got the old ones off and the new ones on. Just make sure you don't do what I did and get the brakes lines twisted around when you put it back together. I made that mistake and was without a car for a week trying to get replacement parts after I rubbed a hole through the brake line with the tire.

[ImpalaSlayer]

get a BFH, just dont hit the studs!!:eek:

[Blackened300a]

get a BFH, just dont hit the studs!!:eek:

+1
I had a hell of a time removing them the first time.

[in2deep]

Get a gigantic hammer and just replace the rotors, it will save a lot of grief trying to be careful removing them.

[Jolly Roger]

get a BFH, just dont hit the studs!!:eek:

^^^What he said +3;)

[ntd]

I take my cutoff wheel score the rotors down the center get the biggest hammer you can and think of the a$$ hole that dinged your door:mad2: and hit it as hard as you can. Most of the time it will spit in half and come off without damaging the parking brake shoes.

[lifespeed]

Come on guys, you don't think I thought of the BFH? I have new rotors, so I was not merciful. The rotors are still on the car :mad2:

Cutting the buggers with a cutoff wheel is an interesting idea. Of course, success is required or I can't drive the car after that :D

I'll try again tonight.

Thanks,

[Stranger in the Black Sedan]

If you fail you have created slotted rotors that will perform equally as well as the chinese crap ones on ebay!

[ImpalaSlayer]

just smack em man. they will come

[Blackened300a]

Come on guys, you don't think I thought of the BFH? I have new rotors, so I was not merciful. The rotors are still on the car :mad2:,

Your not hitting them hard enough then. I was alternating hitting the top and bottom til it finally popped.

[lifespeed]

OK, I'll get medieval on them.

[imorb1994]

Heat(torch) always works just dont use to much.

[Dragcity]

I used the gear puller and heat together. Didn't damage a thing. I doubt propane alone will get it hot enough. I used Oxy/acetylene. Takes a lot of pull on the jaws of extraction too.

Why the manufactuing plant did not put neversieze on there is beyond me.

[O's Fan Rich]

I used a rubber mallet.
No issues.

Then I put anti-seize on the mating surfaces.

The other thing is, I use my parking brake all the time and feel that that helped with the rotors being easier to remove.

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

Same happened to my stock wheels first time removing them. It took a whole lot of wd40 around the hubs and massive blows from inside out from under the car with a rubber mallet, slowly turning the wheels to get it evenly.

Maybe have to try this with the rotors?

[lifespeed]

Three applications of PB blaster penetrant over a couple hours, with hammer blows in between, were followed by an application of the three-jaw puller. And alot of force was applied. At least 120 ft/lbs at the screw has to translate into a couple tons or more. Even then it wasn't budging.

But a hammer blow from inside to out with the puller applied finally broke them free. Man, they were on there. No torch (burnt axle seals) or excessive pounding (damaged bearings or C-clips) were used.

Anti-seize only around the hub center, not the vertical rotor mating surface, was applied.

[CKMustangCobra]

This reminds me of when I installed my new axles. The rotors were seized on too.

I ended up putting a towel on my driveway and smashing the axles onto it studs first until it came off.

This was after a BFH and an air hammer.... lots of WD-40 and a prybar.

[Vortech347]

Rotate and hit it with a hammer to a block of wood and keep rotating it. Also soak the hub in PB blaster. Or a rubber mallet. Be careful if you pound to much you could damage the C-clips.

Hit it from the BACK side not the front.

[Brian H]

anybody ever think of backing off the brake shoes? just a thought....

[lifespeed]

anybody ever think of backing off the brake shoes? just a thought....

The brake shoes are for the parking brake, and of course they were backed off. :rolleyes:

[Brian H]

just checkin'.........

[Bobmiddle]

Old thread but how do i back off e-brake????

[Rockettman]

There's a little rubber plug on the back that you pop out, and it will expose the adjustment wheel inside. Use a blade screwdriver (or the real adjuster tool if you have one), and turn the "star" shaped thingy inside. This backs the shoes off.

[mikethejackal]

Here's a silly question: In addition to being rusted on, do the rotors have any factory screw on retainers to keep them in place? I've had many Fords, and all of them had these little flat washer nuts on them to keep the rotors and/or drums on as they are going down the assembly line. The first time I ever did a brake job on a Ford they made my life miserable.

[Rockettman]

Can't remember if they are there or not - I'm guessing if the brakes were never done; they would be - rip them off, and throw them away.

[DEFYANT]

Do a burn out for about a minute. That will get the rotors cherry red. They should pop right off! :D

[fastblackmerc]

Here's a silly question: In addition to being rusted on, do the rotors have any factory screw on retainers to keep them in place? I've had many Fords, and all of them had these little flat washer nuts on them to keep the rotors and/or drums on as they are going down the assembly line. The first time I ever did a brake job on a Ford they made my life miserable.

No there are no screws that retain the rotors to the hubs and I'm sure the OP removed the retainers if there were any.

[Bobmiddle]

They have the str washers that hold on the rotors... I like the burn out idea but car is on jack stands. and calipers are out for powdercoating

[Mr. Man]

Rotors are coming off (hopefully) the SB this weekend. New Frozen Rotors (slotted) and Hawk pads (blue box) going back on along with the TCE SS lines and new fluid. Going to also paint the calipers as well. Wish me luck.

[Bobmiddle]

i can only imagin how you guys in the rust belt feel. This car has been a desert car for since 12k miles now 120k first time the rears have been off ( well Still Trying)

[mikethejackal]

No there are no screws that retain the rotors to the hubs and I'm sure the OP removed the retainers if there were any.
I just replaced my pads & rotors so I know that they are present on the front, but I had my rear axles replaced 6 years ago under warranty, so can't verify if the rears were there.

[MyBlackBeasts]

2 bolts, 4 nuts & 60 seconds. No hammers needed.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mtsTJCRljAs

[crownvic05]

2 bolts, 4 nuts & 60 seconds. No hammers needed.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mtsTJCRljAs

this is great.

[Rockettman]

It took me 3 hours per side with: TONS of wd-40 / a sledge hammer / some very colourful language my parents would not be proud of!

[fastblackmerc]

2 bolts, 4 nuts & 60 seconds. No hammers needed.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mtsTJCRljAs

Nice video.

You should also not beat on the back of the rotor. The rust is between the rotor and the axle flange. You need to beat on the outside surface of the rotor, between the studs. Even if you miss and mess up a stud they are easy to replace.

[MyBlackBeasts]

Nice video.

You should also not beat on the back of the rotor. The rust is between the rotor and the axle flange. You need to beat on the outside surface of the rotor, between the studs. Even if you miss and mess up a stud they are easy to replace.


^^^^^^You are correct sir! This is knowledge of a professional mechanic! How long you been wrenching?^^^^^

[fastblackmerc]

^^^^^^You are correct sir! This is knowledge of a professional mechanic! How long you been wrenching?^^^^^

I was a Ford certified mechanic for 10 years. Started the day after I graduated from high school. Worked at Wayne Lincoln Mercury, Wayne N.J. and Terry Ford, Pompano Beach, Fl.

[Mr. Man]

All 4 rotors came off the SB with no drama.:banana:

The fronts had been off once before when the sway bars went in and we put a little anti-seize in the back plate(hub?). I was worried the rears would be a real hassle but a little rust penetrant, 5 minutes of soak, and couple of good whacks with a 32oz hammer and they popped right off. The rears had never been off so I was surprised at the ease of removal. The E-shoes look brand new as we never use them.

Hoping to get the calipers painted and the wheels cleaned up this weekend and put it all back together on Monday.

[MyBlackBeasts]

I was a Ford certified mechanic for 10 years. Started the day after I graduated from high school. Worked at Wayne Lincoln Mercury, Wayne N.J. and Terry Ford, Pompano Beach, Fl.

I could tell...

I started before I could walk, holding wrenches for my father. Pounding pistons & painting cars with him at 5 and so on.

3 years auto in high school, Auto Tech school after HS.

Started Vo-Tech (school credit for job) at a service station age 16, went full time there after Tech school grad.

Worked there 14 years. Income stagnated, found you could make twice the income working on Class 8's. Did that for 7 years with some other stuff mixed in.